FOLDING:
(ref nec) 1. To give a turn when making puff pastry.
2. To deflate rising dough.
3. In baking, Syn. Fold (rarely used in baking books). For bread dough, this involves folding the dough over itself: front, back, a quarter turn, front, and back. This forms a ball.
FOLLOW DOUGH:
(ref nec) To give a risen dough a turn on itself in order to expel the gas production.
RABLE:
(TLFi) Iron tool with a long wooden handle used by bakers to stir embers and coals in the oven and to remove embers.
(TLFi) [In some quadrupeds] Fleshy part extending from the ribs to the base of the tail.
See also "racle".
RABOTE:
(Littré) A type of cake where an apple is enclosed in the dough; used in the Ardennes and in Geneva.
Picardy apple tart:
(CNRTL) Syn. apple in a pastry case. Apple-based dessert, a specialty of Picardy. The cored apple is placed on a square of puff pastry. In the central cavity, sugar, cinnamon, and a knob of butter are poured. The pastry is folded around the apple, and the whole thing is baked. The tart is sometimes called "Talibur" in Picardy. Its origin is unknown.
This dessert is similar to the Belgian "Rombosse," the Norman coucou and Douillon, etc.
RACE:
(M. Ribereau Gayon) Said of a wine which has a high level of acidity.
RACK (or scraper):
(bakery) Iron tools used to bring the embers from the oven back towards the door after the heating phase.
RACLETTE (also rouable, or rozell in Breton):
(ref nec) Hardwood scraper, an essential accessory for spreading crêpe batter on the griddle (see this term).
(TLFi) A full-fat Swiss cow's milk cheese with a pressed and cooked curd, used to make raclette. Designates a PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) in Valais: the cheese dairies in Valais villages produce "Raclette du Valais PDO" from raw milk according to a traditional Valais recipe: through various stages, the entirely natural raw milk is transformed into Raclette du Valais PDO. The natural milk used to make Raclette du Valais PDO comes from Hérens, Brown Swiss, Simmental, Red Holstein, and Black Spotted cows. The cheesemaker gently heats the milk while stirring it, then adds rennet and lactic ferments, which cause the milk to coagulate. A curd cutter is used to cut the resulting mass. When the curd has reached the desired consistency, the cheese is poured into molds, which are turned several times during pressing. After pressing, the cheese is immersed in a brine bath. Following the brine bath, the aging process begins for Raclette du Valais AOP: the cheeses remain in the cellar for at least three months. During this time, the cheesemakers take great care of the wheels and turn them regularly.
RACOTTAGE (see COMPLANTATION)
RABBLE
(TLFi) The central peduncle or axis and branches of a fruit cluster, particularly a bunch of grapes.
(Civa) Rabule, d'r Triwelkàmm, d' Triwelrìpp : this is the herbaceous part of the grape cluster, the skeleton of the cluster. It is rich in phenolic compounds, notably tannins.
REFRESHED:
(ref nec) Periodic and repeated incorporation of flour and water at room temperature, from 20 to 35 °C. Operation by which microorganisms continue to reproduce in order to obtain a sufficiently active sourdough starter, ready to be incorporated into the dough.
REFRESH:
(ref nec) To quickly cool food under running water. For example, for boiled vegetables.
(ref nec) For cocktails: to cool a glass with ice, or by placing it in the refrigerator.
RAGOT:
(TLFi) Male wild boar between two and three years old and no longer living in a group.
STEW:
(TLFi) A dish consisting of meat, fish, or vegetables cut into pieces and cooked slowly in a sauce. Examples include potato stew, truffle stew, and mushroom stew. In particular, a dish of meat and vegetables (usually potatoes or beans) cut into pieces and cooked together in a sauce.
STIFFEN:
(TLFi) To make stiff, to deprive of suppleness. Said of meat or fish that is sautéed to firm it up.
(Roussel et al., Glossary of terminology applied to French breads) For bread, to become tougher.
STIFFENING:
(The butcher-caterer's companion's book) An operation which consists of treating raw materials with heat (80 to 100°C) for a short time (1 to 15 min), in order to obtain a firmer consistency.
Horseradish:
(TLFi) Cruciferous plant with a fleshy, white root used as a flavoring or in certain pharmaceutical preparations.
STORAGE RAIL
(cocktails) Stainless steel equipment reserved for storing the most frequently used bottles during service, directly accessible to the bartender; available in several lengths, in single and double rows depending on the number of bottles to be stored. (in English: speed-rack, speed-rail).
GRAPES
(Civa) Grapes are the fruit of the vine. They appear in the form of a bunch composed of berries (grape berries) supported by the rachis.
FRUIT RAISIN:
(economie.gouv.fr) Fruit raisinin is a mixture, cooked to the appropriate consistency, of sugars, grapes or grape juice, with or without the addition of other fruits or fruit juices. The quantity of fruit or fruit juice used to make 1,000 grams of finished product must be greater than or equal to 450 grams, of which at least 250 grams must be grapes or grape juice .
RAITO:
(IPCF) An old Provençal recipe. One of the traditional dishes of the Christmas Eve supper in Provence. It's a sauce that accompanies salt cod, but also cod, whiting, and red mullet. In this case, the dish can be eaten cold. It is made with tomato sauce, red wine, olives, capers, thyme, bay leaf, parsley, garlic, celery, and parsley.
BREAD COLLECTOR:
(ref nec) Beech wood board for handling the sticks when placing them on the bread linen or the bed (syn. pelon).
BLOND BRANCH:
(ref nec) A group of cattle breeds originating from southwestern Europe and the North African coast. A breed descended from Bos taurus aquitanus, the scientific name given to all domestic cattle descended from the wild aurochs.
RAMEKIN
(Gifts of Comus) " Put a little water, about half a glass, and a piece of butter in a saucepan. When it begins to boil, add flour as you would for a royal dough. Once it's ready, add four eggs. Mix everything together well, and add two anchovies, Brie and Gruyère cheese, and coarsely ground pepper. Grind well. Grease small pastry molds and fill your ramekins. Bake and serve hot ."
(TLFi) A small, hot cheese-based pastry or casserole. By metonymy, a small porcelain or glass container in which cheese custard is cooked directly, and, by extension, which is used to cook eggs and all kinds of preparations, custards, or desserts in the oven or in a bain-marie.
SOUFFLÉ RAMEKINS:
(Gift from Comus) "Make a small piece of very light royal dough the size of two eggs. Place it in a mortar with twice as much good butter, finely chopped parsley, half a quarter of a very mild Brie cheese, and a quarter of a grated, equally mild Gruyere cheese. Pound everything together, and add five egg yolks one after the other, and the egg whites separately, to whisk them. When everything is well pounded, mix in the egg whites. Line tart pans with very thin puff pastry; add a two-inch spoonful of your mixture. Bake them in a hot oven to set them, and then let them cool gently. You will see them rise before your eyes. When they are cooked and dry, serve them piping hot. They only take about fifteen minutes to bake. You must be careful to be able to serve them straight from the oven."
RANK:
(JM Jeudy) All the tables under the responsibility of the head waiter. The royal rank designates the best tables as opposed to "Siberia" where the less well-placed tables are located.
GRATE:
(ref nec) Kitchen utensil covered with rough edges used to reduce a product to powder or fine shavings.
VEGETABLE GRATER:
(Andrej Abplanalp, Swiss National Museum) Other essentials for any kitchen: the Bircher grater and the Rex peeler. At the beginning of the 20th century, Maximilian Oskar Bircher-Benner (1867-1939) not only invented bircher muesli and a raw vegetable diet, but he also conceived a fabulous kitchen utensil: the Bircher grater. It allowed for the preparation of easily digestible portions of muesli. This tool was developed in the 1920s by Maximilian Bircher-Benner in collaboration with the Aargau-based company Egloff & Co. Still produced today, the grater holds a place of honor in kitchens all over the world.
GRATED:
RAPEPAIN:
(CNRTL) A type of knife for trimming, cutting, slicing and paring bread.
RACKET:
(French butcher's glossary) In butchery, the racket is used partly in the preparation of processed products (minced steak, restructured meats) and partly in the preparation of ready-to-cut products.
RACK OF RIBS:
(The butcher-caterer's companion's book) Thin layer of very sinewy fat that adheres to the rind and has a vitreous appearance.
TRUFFLE RAZOR:
(ref nec)
STILL:
(TLFi) To dry out without becoming hard.
(butchery) See "mortify".
Staleness:
(ref nec) Phenomenon which includes both a loss of water through the crumb of bread products, and through the formation of crystalline zones by amylose molecules (see "retrogradation").
RASURE:
(IPCF) Granitic deposit which forms at the bottom of the casserole at the end of the cooking of the gaudes.
RATA:
(CNRTL) A coarse stew made with meat and vegetables. A coarse, unappetizing dish.
Champagne Ratafia:
(CNRTL) A fortified wine made with grape must and champagne marc. Champagne ratafia is served chilled, as an aperitif or at the end of a meal.
RATATOUILLE:
The TLFi (Trésor de la langue française informatisé) defines ratatouille as a dish composed of various ingredients cut into pieces and cooked together, adding that it is a synonym for "stew." However, many recipes cook the vegetables separately.
Ratatouille Niçoise, more specifically, is said to be composed of onions, peppers, tomatoes, zucchini, and eggplant, with garlic and aromatic herbs.
RATE:
(boulangerie.net) Bread that has been eaten by rats.
RATIS:
(ref nec) Fatty tissue of the pig's mesentery. Also called caul fat or omentum.
(The Butcher-Caterer's Companion Book) Fatty part that adheres to the small intestine and is recovered at the slaughterhouse.
(Dronne) "The ratis, or internal fat, is used to make lard, for the manufacture of ordinary blood sausages, etc."
RATISSER:
(ref nec) To scrape a vegetable.
RATON:
(ref nec) A small pastry made with a cheese filling on a dough base. Nicolas de Bonnefons (Délices de la campagne) gives the recipe:
{"They are made by rolling out a piece of dough into a circle and spreading the cheese filling evenly over the top; they are baked in an oven and served piping hot."}
For the cheese filling, see this definition.
(SG Sanders and M. Derrien, La grande histoire de la pâtisserie-confiserie française) A type of medieval pancake, from the Latin crispum. It takes its name from the slightly wrinkled appearance the pancake acquires in the pan.
RÂVE:
(N de Bonnefons) Small horseradish
(CNRTL) Cruciferous vegetable plant with a fleshy, flattened or rounded root.
RAVIER:
(French dictionary) Small oblong dish, in which radishes or other hors d'oeuvres are served.
RAVIGOTE (or ravigotte):
(H. This) A mixture of aromatic herbs or prepared salad greens (chopped, diced, crushed), possibly after blanching. This preparation can be added to any sauce, whether it's called mayonnaise, tartar sauce, green-meadow sauce, or simply ravigote, when the herbs are the essential base of the sauce, and the sauce doesn't fall into another category.
Thus, when mustard is used as a base to thicken the sauce (possibly with an emulsion of liquid fat), then the sauce becomes a remoulade sauce... since it contains mustard, and mustard is the distinctive flavor of remoulade sauces, whether or not they contain herbs.
Put more succinctly, a remoulade is a well-prepared sauce based on mustard; a ravigote is a mixture of herbs, which can lend its name to a sauce, of which there are hot and cold versions.
For example, a hot ravigote sauce is made from heated butter and flour, then stock and finely chopped herbs are added, along with lemon juice.
François Menon gives the recipe for a "Bacchic Ravigote Sauce": "Boil two large glasses of white wine with a little veal, tarragon, garden cress, chervil, a clove of garlic, two shallots, parsley, chives, salt, coarse pepper, reduce to a sauce consistency ."
Ravigote?
By H. This vo Kientza.
I've sometimes seen sauces made with vinaigrette and hard-boiled egg called "ravigote sauce." Wrong! Since at least the Renaissance, ravigote sauce has been a mixture of aromatic herbs or prepared salad greens (chopped, diced, crushed), possibly after blanching.
But let's start again calmly. What we call "ravigote," even though it's not a sauce, is a mixture of aromatic herbs or chopped salad greens, possibly after blanching.
This mixture, called ravigote, can be added to any sauce, whether it's called mayonnaise, tartar sauce, green salad, or... simply ravigote, when the herbs are the essential base of the sauce, and the sauce doesn't fall into another category.
When mustard is used as a base to thicken the sauce (perhaps with an emulsion of liquid fat), then the sauce becomes a rémoulade... because it contains mustard, and mustard is the defining characteristic of rémoulade sauces, whether or not they contain herbs. Put more succinctly, a rémoulade is a well-prepared, mustard-based sauce; a ravigote is a mixture of herbs, which can lend its name to a sauce. There are hot and cold versions of this sauce.
For example, a hot ravigote is made by heating butter and flour, then adding stock, finely chopped herbs, and lemon juice.
The author of a famous cookbook, Joseph Menon, in the 18th century, gives the recipe for a "Ravigotte Bacchic Sauce": "Boil two large glasses of white wine with a little veal, tarragon, garden cress, chervil, a clove of garlic, two shallots, parsley, chives, salt, and coarsely ground pepper; reduce to a sauce consistency."
And it is thus, through the precise use of the word "ravigotte," that the cuisine becomes even more exquisite!
RAVIOLE:
(CNRTL) Small squares of pasta filled with seasoned minced meat.
See Rissole.
H. This: Ravioles? The word brings to mind "ravioli," but it's a mistake to think it derives from it, as it appears in French as early as the beginning of the 14th century: the word "raviolle" then referred to a piece of pasta containing minced meat. Around 1393, in the Ménagier de Paris, it is written "raviole." It has been suggested that ravioles were originally made with turnips, but this is not confirmed by the oldest attestations in French, nor by the oldest cookbooks, particularly those on Italian cuisine. For this reason, and based on the Latin form rabiola, a derivative of {rubeus}, meaning "reddish," has been suggested.
In any case, a ravioli is not a "rissole," which is a pastry-based dish (often puff pastry) filled with meat or fish and deep-fried. The difference between ravioli and rissole lies in the casing, shape, and cooking method: ravioli are distinguished by their firm pasta casing (like noodles), their square shape, and their boiling, while rissole have a delicate pastry casing, most often puff pastry, in an oval or semi-circular shape, which is breaded and fried. The filling determines the name.
RAVIOLI:
(TLFi) Small squares of pasta filled with seasoned minced meat. In French, they are called ravioles.
SCRAPING:
(P. Moreau, Bakery and Pastry) To score dough with a small knife before or during baking (for example, when baking cakes, scoring the crust to allow the dough to rise).
RC
(ref nec) Designation found on the label of a Champagne. This refers to a Grower-Cooperative who delivers their harvest to a cooperative and takes it during the winemaking process or ready for sale.
GLYCATION REACTIONS:
(Ref: H. This, This H. 2016. “Maillard products” and “Maillard reactions” are much discussed in food science and technology, but do such products and reactions deserve their name?, Academic Notes from the French Academy of Agriculture, 3, 1-10) Chemical reactions between proteins and reducing sugars (e.g., glucose). Like many other reactions, they lead to brown compounds called melanoidins, which are also (along with other compounds) responsible for producing odorous or flavorful compounds.
They are discussed far too much compared to other reactions such as pyrolysis, thermolysis, oxidation, hydrolysis, decarboxylation, intramolecular dehydration, etc.
We will avoid calling them Maillard reactions, as it was Ugo Schiff, Robert Sachsse, Mario Amadori, K. Heyns, John Hodge, and especially Emil Fischer who explored the reactions between an amino compound and a reducing sugar. Note that for condensation reactions between an amino acid or peptide and a reducing sugar, we should speak of amino-carbonyl reactions.
MAILLARD REACTION:
(This vo Kientza H. IMARS 2023) The expressions "Maillard reaction" or "Maillard reactions" should be avoided: we should speak of "glycation reactions (IUPAC Gold Book)" for reactions between proteins and reducing saccharides ("sugars"), or of amino-carbonyl reactions between reducing saccharides and peptides or amino acids.
REACT:
(Roussel et al., Glossary of terminology applied to French breads) For bread, not reacting means an absence of elastic retraction, no development in the oven.
REBARBE:
(Peasant food in Gévaudan in the 18th century. René-Jean Bernard, CNRS) A Roquefort derivative made from the scrapings of the famous cheese. Also called the shepherd's tartine, it has the appearance of a buttered loaf. A Languedoc cheese, kneaded and fermented. Widely used in the Provençal countryside. Belongs to the group of fermented cheeses like Cachats, Broussin, Brous, etc.
REBLOCHE or REBLASSE:
(ref nec) Milking a second time; a fraudulent system that allowed the farmer to deduct part of the milk from the owner's milk. The second milking was less abundant but creamier.
REBLOCHON:
(TLFi) A soft, fatty, slightly pressed cow's milk cheese with a washed rind and a mild, creamy taste, made in Savoy.
(Savoyard cuisine) A cheese originating from the Bornes, Aravis, and Thônes mountain ranges.
RIM:
(ISO for containers) Upper part of the opening of a container.
RECEPTION:
(TLFi) A gathering of invited people, often of a social nature.
WIDE NECK CONTAINER, or WIDE OPENING CONTAINER
(ISO) Container whose neck opening diameter is slightly smaller than that of the barrel.
RETURNABLE CONTAINER:
(ISO) reusable bottle
Container having characteristics of mechanical resistance, chemical resistance and physical resistance allowing it to be reused several times.
NARROW-OPENING CONTAINER, or NARROW-NECK CONTAINER:
(ISO) Container whose neck opening diameter is much smaller than that of the barrel.
JUICE CONTAINER:
(cocktails) Storage equipment used to quickly and easily pour its contents, mainly fruit juice, and then store it in the refrigerator immediately after use (in English: store'n pour).
TO CLAIM:
(ref nec) At the pass, it is to ask the barker for a dish that is already laid out.
RECONSTRUCTOR (of minced steak)
(ref nec) Device used to calibrate and compact minced meat and give it the shape of a steak.
RED HOLSTEIN:
(ref nec) This is a recent selection within the Holstein breed of the red-and-white coat variant, carried out simultaneously on European and North American populations. In this respect, it differs from the Red Pied Plains or the MRY, whose origins lie in the family of red-and-white breeds genetically separated from the Holstein three centuries ago. This breed is present in France, and the OGER (the French artificial insemination center) recognizes it because bull semen doses are available for sale. It is therefore considered a red-coated Holstein.
REDUCTION:
(ref nec) An operation that consists of reducing (see this word).
Product of the heating operation aimed at reducing the volume of a liquid.
REDUCE:
(ref nec) Operation which consists of heating a liquid so that its volume is reduced, by evaporation of some of its compounds.
REFILL:
(The Butcher-Caterer's Apprentice Book) Blanch the chitterlings or trotters in boiling water.
(The Butcher-Caterer's Apprentice Book) Cook the casing covering the andouillette after stuffing.
STUFFINESSING:
(The Butcher-Caterer's Handbook) The process of enclosing a small bundle of chitterlings and stomach strips inside a casing to make an andouillette sausage. Stuffing can also be done with pieces of andouillette that have been previously stuffed and cooked in beef casings or animal fibers. A second cooking then cooks the stuffing casing.
REFRACTOMETER:
(TLFi) Instrument used to measure refractive indices.
(ref nec) Device that measures the concentration of a mixture in dry matter. It is mainly used in confectionery and ice cream making, but also by winemakers.
(Civa) Device that estimates the sugar concentration in grapes or must from the refraction of light. It provides a prediction of the potential alcohol content of the wine.
SUGAR REFRACTOMETER:
(ref nec) Device used to measure the sugar content in chocolate, jam, syrups, etc.
REFRIGERATOR (molecular gastronomy):
(ref nec) A laboratory instrument used to condense vapors. It often consists of a glass tube inside a larger diameter tube through which cold water is circulated from bottom to top. The condenser is frequently placed on a flask where a solution is being heated, causing the vapors to rise in the central tube, condense, and then flow back down into the flask. A condenser allows for very long cooking times without any loss of material.
REGENCY (AT LA):
(PF La Varenne) braised pigeons, salt, pepper, herbs, onions, lemon, artichokes, veal sweetbreads, mushrooms, sweetbreads, butter, flour, stock, chives, parsley, herbs, cloves
(bakery) regional bread, northern France
REHOBOAM
(ISO) Wine bottle with a capacity of 6 conventional quarts (approximately 4.5 L).
KIDNEY:
(The butcher-caterer's companion's book) Consists of the shoulder, the loin, the rack of ribs, the fillet, the point and the back fat.
QUEEN (A LA):
(PF La Varenne) Small grain-fed chickens.
(La Varenne) Queen's Soup: crushed almonds, boiled with broth, bouquet garni, lemon pulp, breadcrumbs, strained; thickened with a broth made from poultry bones cooked with broth, mushrooms, bread; finished with a poultry mince.
As a lean dish: fish, cooked with water, salt, onions, parsley, hard-boiled eggs, breadcrumbs, strained broth, butter, crushed almonds, onions studded with cloves, mushroom juice, pomegranates, lemons.
REJOICING:
(French butcher's glossary) Expression in the butcher's trade. A certain portion of offal, or more often bones, which the buyer is obliged to take with the good meat and at the same price.
EXCERPT:
(TLFi) Dish served between the soup and the appetizers.
(Larousse G) Dish that "enhanced" another dish, which followed it. The term mainly concerned appetizers, which were "enhanced soups." A classic menu included: hors d'oeuvre, soup, soup enhancement, fish, fish enhancement, roast, roast enhancement, entremets, desserts.
ENHANCE:
(Larousse g) To enhance the flavor by adding salt, pepper, spices, herbs, vinegar...
RELIGIOUS:
(Larousse g) Pastry consisting of a large choux pastry (filled with flavored pastry cream) topped with a smaller choux pastry, also filled; after glazing, decorated with buttercream.
PUMPING BACK ON:
(ref nec) During the maceration of red wines, this operation consists of drawing off the must from the bottom of the vat and pouring it back over the cap. As with punching down and racking, the aim is to extract as much of the aroma, color, and flavor compounds as possible.
RE-EMOLISHING:
(ref nec) To re-emulsify a hollandaise or béarnaise sauce: add a few spoonfuls of water to restore the emulsion of the fat.
To re-emulsify a mayonnaise sauce, simply decant the oil that rises to the surface, then add it drop by drop, whisking, to the remaining water.
REMOULADE:
(H. This) A very old sauce (it can already be found in the Viandier ) which contains mustard. It is served hot or cold.
The name of this sauce probably comes from the fact that the sauce had to be worked, "remouled," a word which denotes a repetitive action.
What is mayonnaise? What is remoulade? Or rather, in reverse order, since remoulade came first.
By H. This, vo Kientza.
Let me tell you the extraordinary story of mayonnaise sauce, so that we may better understand what it is and what it is not.
I begin the story in 1740, with Louis-Auguste de Bourbon, who wrote in Le Cuisinier gascon: "You have a hot remoulade, made with all sorts of herbs and Vanville butter, finished with good flavor, lemon juice."
We thus observe that there are hot remoulades and cold remoulades, a fact confirmed by Menon in 1755 in * Les soupers de la cour, ou l'Art de travailler toutes sortes d'aliments pour servir les meilleures tables, suivant les quatre saisons* (The Suppers of the Court, or the Art of Working with All Kinds of Food to Serve the Best Tables, According to the Four Seasons ): his hot remoulade is composed of onions, oil, white wine, broth, and herbs, and his cold remoulade of "parsley, chives, shallots, a clove of garlic, capers, and anchovies, all very finely chopped, diluted with a spoonful of mustard, oil, vinegar, salt, and coarsely ground pepper."
What do these sauces have in common? This is mentioned in other passages, but there is the word "remoulade," which we still find today in "remouleur" (knife grinder) and "rémouler" (to grind): it refers to a repetitive action, and, for a sauce, we know that emulsifying requires this type of action. Rémoulade is a sauce that today we would call elaborate, skillfully worked, and refined.
Let's move on to the 19th century, with The National Cook of the City and Country: "Green Rémolade. Take a small handful of chervil, half a handful of burnet, tarragon, and chives; blanch these herbs, which are called Ravigote; when they are well pressed, pound them, then add salt, coarse pepper, and a full glass of mustard: pound everything together, then add half a glass of oil, which you will combine with your Ravigote and mustard; once everything is well diluted, add two or three raw egg yolks and four or five tablespoons of vinegar; combine everything and pass it through a sieve as if it were a purée; your rémolade should be somewhat thick; "If it's not green enough, you can add a little spinach greens."
Here, we see that rémoulade contains mustard. To this base, egg yolk is added, because cooks know that yolk adds a lot of flavor. Then, the mixture is worked to obtain a thick sauce: in an era when the reason for the firmness of emulsions was unknown (remember that an emulsion is not a foam!), achieving this consistency was quite remarkable. Above all, we see that rémoulade was primarily about mustard; the egg yolk is merely a later refinement, important from a flavor perspective.
Everything was going perfectly… until, in the eighteenth century, someone dispensed with mustard and obtained a sauce with a much more delicate flavor than rémoulade by emulsifying oil in a mixture of egg yolk and vinegar: mayonnaise was born.
Stories abound about the discovery of this marvelous sauce, but what must be understood is that mayonnaise doesn't contain mustard… otherwise, it's a remoulade. The chef Philéas Gilbert aptly stated that "mustard is the distinctive flavor of remoulade."
Today, I see many cooks taking a step backward, with sauces they mistakenly call mayonnaises, which are actually remoulades. The two sauces have different tastes and different uses, but the history of cooking is clear: the two should not be confused, and, above all, I believe it's a mistake (or a fault, depending on the case) to regress from a culinary technique standpoint.
Clearly, the right words are essential in cooking; aren't they?
(PF La Varenne, 1651) anchovies, parsley, chives, salt, pepper, capers, oil, mustard, juice, lemon.
(François Marin, 1742. La suite des dons de Comus, t. 1, p. 76: " Remoulade sauce.
Chop parsley, chives, shallots, capers & anchovies, two sprigs of celery in a bowl. Add fel, pepper. Dilute with oil, vinegar & mustard, all well stirred. Taste and season in a saucepan .")
And we have further confirmation from MCD (1750, Dictionary of Foods): Rémolade Sauce
" Finely chop parsley, chives, capers, anchovies, and a touch of garlic; put everything in a saucepan with a spoonful of mustard, fine salt, and crushed pepper; thin with oil and vinegar; ensure that nothing overpowers the other flavors in this sauce: serve it cold in a sauceboat.
Hot Rémolade Sauce:
Put parsley, chives, mushrooms, and a touch of garlic, all chopped, in a saucepan; sauté them over the heat with a spoonful of oil, and then moisten with tomato purée and a little vinegar; after a few minutes of simmering, skim off any fat from the sauce and season it to taste; before serving, stir in a spoonful of mustard. Serve the sauce without boiling, and use it for anything that requires a strong flavor ."
YIELD:
(Civa) Yield, d'r Ertràj, d' Leischtùng: In Alsace, the yield is fixed in the appellation decree. It is expressed in hl/ha. It is regulated by planting density, pruning, fertilization, and soil management. The yield influences the ripening of the grapes and the concentration of the wine.
DOUGH YIELD:
(Roussel et al., Glossary of terminology applied to French breads) Quantity of water that flour can absorb for a given consistency.
REVEALING WATER:
(ref nec) Said of a preparation, generally gelled, in which liquid is no longer held in the gel (jam, flan, velouté sauce which undergoes "retrogradation [see this term] of starch", etc.).
REFERENCE:
(Kitchen Dictionary) A mixture of flour, water, or egg white used to seal a cooking vessel or to attach a decorative element to the rim of a dish. (syn. Seal).
To avoid forgetting a dish in the oven, or when the handle of a container was hot, cooks would mark it with a "reference" made simply of flour to signal the danger.
(Favre) A name given in cooking to a mixture used to attach bread or rice pads to the bottom of dishes, and also to seal the rims of dishes, metal rims, or pasta dough; it is prepared as follows: Reference. — New Formula 321. — Dilute flour with a little egg white to a soft consistency; prepare this mixture only when ready to use. Once the pads or rims have been attached, let them dry on the stove for a few moments.
DIRECTORY:
The Directory of Cuisine , by M. Gringoire and M. Saulnier, is often simply referred to as The Directory or "Gringoire & Saulnier." The first edition dates from March 8, 1914, and the dedication reads "To the Master of Modern Cuisine, Auguste Escoffier, with respectful admiration." Indeed, this directory is an abridged version of the Culinary Guide, in which Auguste Escoffier, Philéas Gilbert, Émile Fétu, and others annotated observations and lessons learned during their professional practice.
The original French edition was translated into English by E. Brunet. The American preface in 1967 was written by Jacques Pépin and George Lang.
The Directory presents some 7,000 recipes, condensed into a few lines, often even just a few essential words. For, as stated in the preface, this work is primarily intended for practicing chefs.
This reference guide is divided into 12 chapters:
A-Basic Cooking Bases
B-Garnishes and Sauces
C-Appetizers
D-Soups
E-Eggs
F-Fish
G-Offal Appetizers, Light Appetizers
H-Appetizers, Side Dishes, Roasts
I-Salads
J-Vegetables and Pasta
K-Desserts
L-Savory Dishes.
It should be treated with extreme caution, because, like the Culinary Guide , it is largely ignorant of culinary history and endorses terms that are not historically accurate.
FOLD THE DOUGH INTO
A BEAD (ref nec) Fold the excess dough, which extends beyond the mold, pressing to seal it to the dough underneath, which forms a bead.
REST:
(ref nec) Resting time of a dough after the making or shaping of a dough.
SHARK:
(ref nec) Sharks, also known as squales or selachimorphs, form a superorder of cartilaginous marine fish with five to seven gill slits on the sides of their head and pectoral fins that are not fused to the head. Sharks are generally characterized by an elongated body, a pointed snout, and a crescent-shaped mouth on their ventral side. Shark finning is the practice of capturing sharks, cutting off their fins and tail, and then discarding them mutilated back into the sea. The harvested anatomical parts are used to prepare a traditional Chinese soup. Besides using its flesh and fins for food, the entire shark is exploitable. However, the disparity in price between fins and other body parts means that in practice, sharks are exploited almost exclusively for their fins, the rest being returned to the sea to avoid cluttering the holds.
Fin cartilage is used to flavor soups in China, and the teeth are sold there as souvenirs. In Europe, as in North America, other smaller sharks, commonly called "dogfish," are consumed, such as the smooth-hound (smooth or spotted), the tope, and the spiny dogfish, often sold headless and skinned under the name "salmonette"; they are prepared like the small-spotted catshark. In Creole cuisine, their flesh is used in soups or stews; in Chinese cuisine, the fins are an ingredient in a renowned soup.
TIGHTEN (a bread dough):
(ref nec) Give the dough a turn by shaping it into a ball.
RESERVE:
(Larousse G) To set aside, in a cool or warm place, ingredients, mixtures or preparations intended for later use.
SWEAT YEASTING:
(TLFi) The act of a body sweating, losing its moisture.
(TLFi) The phase that bread goes through after leaving the oven, which corresponds to cooling, a certain elimination of water and carbon dioxide, and therefore a weight loss of around 2 to 3%.
RESTAURANT:
(TLFi) Food or drink that restores, comforts, and replenishes strength.
(TLFi) A public establishment where meals are served for a fee.
BISTRONOMIC RESTAURANT:
The adjective "bistronomic" is formed from "bistro" and "gastronomy." These restaurants offer customers refined, creative cuisine at more affordable prices than Michelin-starred restaurants.
However, the word is somewhat misleading, because the word "gastronomy" does not mean artistic or showy cuisine, but rather "a reasoned understanding of everything related to human eating."
RETURN or RETURN:
(ref nec) At the pass, this is when the server brings back the leftovers of a dish or preparation. He announces it to the usher with "Return!"
SHRINK:
(INBP) For biscuits, biscuit shrinkage during baking
RETROGRADATION:
(H. This) When a paste is formed (for example, in bread crumb or in a velouté-type sauce), amylose molecules contribute to the viscosity of the continuous aqueous phase, while water molecules between the entangled amylopectin molecules form the gel structure. Upon cooling, the amylose molecules reassociate, forming crystalline zones, and water is excluded: this is starch retrogradation, notably responsible for staling.
REVÊCHE
(ref nec) Last pressing juice of the grapes, unable to benefit from any appellation, giving wines of poor quality intended in the vast majority of cases to be distilled.
RETURN:
(ref nec) Pass through very hot fat to color the surface (meat, fish, vegetables...).
REHOBOAM:
(Mr. Ribereau Gayon) Bottle of Burgundy wine with a capacity of 4.5 liters (i.e., 6 bottles)
CHRISTMAS EVE DINNER:
(TLFI) A meal or snack eaten late at night.
(TLFI) A festive meal eaten on Christmas night and (since the end of the 19th century ) on New Year's Eve.
REVOLUTED
(ref nec) This term describes a vine leaf that curls downwards. Only its edges may be revoluted; the Alicante Henri Bouschet is a very characteristic example (see this grape variety). The opposite is called involuted (see also this word).
RHODOID:
(ref nec) Semi-rigid, transparent plastic sheet or ribbon used in pastry and chocolate making to shape and unmold cold preparations, particularly entremets, mousses, bavarois, etc. Rhodoid is used to line rings or molds for quick unmolding. This very thin polyethylene sheet is food-safe and non-stick, primarily used in pastry and chocolate making.
RICHARD, or ROBERT:
(Hotel and Restaurant) This is the nickname for regulars who like to personalize their dishes… even if it means completely reinventing the recipe.
RICH:
(Mr. Ribereau Gayon) A rich wine is coloured, powerful, generous and balanced.
RICHELIEU:
(Carême, J. Gouffé) The term applies to blood sausages (or related products) or sauces; see Richelieu sauce. See https://nouvellesgastronomiques.com/terminologie-richelieu-et-soubise-par-herve-this/
RIGATONI:
(Robert) Tube-shaped pasta with grooves. Larger than penne and sometimes curved.
RIGOLOTTE DE CONDRIEU:
(INAO) Rigotte de Condrieu is a goat cheese protected by an AOC since 2009 and by an AOP since 2013. It is produced in the heart of the Rhône-Alpes region. It is in the Pilat Regional Natural Park, in Rhône-Alpes, that about ten farmers produce this small cylindrical cheese.
RILLETTES:
An old preparation, originally called rillée or rihelle, made of lean meat, fat, and seasoning.
(CNRTL) A preparation made of pork, a mixture of pork and rabbit, goose or game, or goose cooked in its own fat until it reaches the consistency of a smooth paste, and constituting a highly regarded specialty of several cities.
RILLETTES DU MANS:
Rillettes made exclusively from pork, cut into fairly large pieces and cooked slowly.
(CNRTL) Rillettes from Le Mans and the Sarthe region are cooked slowly in large pieces and are light in color.
WILD BOAR RILLETTES:
(ref nec) The use of lean wild boar meat is possible for making rillettes. The fat used in the preparation is taken from pork carcasses.
RILLETTES FROM SARTHE:
See "rillettes from Le Mans".
SALMON RILLETTES:
(rec nef) Preparation composed of cooked salmon flesh and fat, such as butter.
Tours Rillettes:
(ref nec) The color of these rillettes is quite dark; it is obtained either by rapid cooking or by prolonged but vigorous cooking at the end, with the possible addition of a coloring substance (such as caramel). The texture is fine, and it is common to find pork liver in them.
(Dronne) " Tours rillettes are made in the same way and by the same methods. The only difference between the preparation of these two types of rillettes is that Tours rillettes are cooked over a higher heat than Le Mans rillettes, in order to give them their reddish color ."
(CNRTL) Tours rillettes have a very fine texture and quite often contain pork liver. They are cooked rather quickly and have a light brown tint.
RILLON:
(TLFi) Pork meat scraps rendered to obtain the fat.
(TLFI) Pieces of pork cut into large cubes, simmered in their own fat and caramelized, generally served cold.
(ref nec) Rillons, also called rillauds or grillons, are cooked charcuterie preparations originating from Anjou and Touraine. They are pieces of pork belly or lean shoulder cooked in fat maintained at a high temperature.
RINCETTE:
(J. Fabre) In Normandy, this refers to the second shot of brandy taken from the cup after coffee. The third is called a surincette, and the fourth a rinçulette.
RIOLER:
(The butcher-caterer's companion's book) Action of placing strips of dough at regular intervals on the surface of a cake or pie, so that they intersect diagonally, in order to obtain a decorative pattern.
RIS:
(TLFi) Thymus of veal, lamb and kid which constitutes a highly appreciated delicacy.
SWEETBREADS:
(ref nec) Sweetbreads are the name given to the thymus gland of a calf when used in culinary preparations. "Sweets: offal of the calf (lamb and kid) formed by a gland – the thymus – located at the entrance to the chest, in front of the trachea, which disappears in adulthood. The sweetbread consists of an elongated part, the throat, and a round, flavorful part, the palm."
This rather rare food is expensive and prized by connoisseurs. Sweetbreads must be soaked in cold water, then blanched, drained, and refreshed. After complete cooling, they must be trimmed and then pressed in a cool place. Sweetbreads are most often cooked braised.
RISSOLE:
(Dictionary of Foods and Beverages, 1750) " A type of pastry made of minced and spiced meat, wrapped in dough and fried in lard; first, small oval-shaped pastry sheets are made, then filled with a mixture of capon breast, beef marrow, salt, and pepper, all finely chopped; once the rissoles are made, they are fried in lard. They can also be made with a lean version using finely chopped fish stuffing, and even with mushrooms; if using spinach, they are cooked beforehand with butter, herbs, and spices; if using mushrooms, they are cooked in the usual way, chopped very finely, seasoned with a little salt, sugar, and crushed or grated lemon zest, and served baked with sugar and orange blossom water." Rissoles are also called "Parisian ears" because they are shaped like ears.
(TLFi) A puff pastry filled with a meat or fish mixture and deep-fried. The word dates back to 1549, meaning "to roast so that the food takes on a golden color."
The difference between ravioles and rissoles lies in the casing, shape, and cooking method: ravioles are distinguished by their firm pasta casing (like noodles), their square shape, and their boiling, while rissoles have a delicate pastry casing, most often puff pastry, oval or semi-circular in shape, breaded, and fried. The filling determines the name.
(J. Favre) " The difference between ravioles and rissoles lies in the casing, the shape, and the cooking method: ravioles are distinguished by their firm pasta casing (noodles), their square shape, and their boiling, while rissoles have a delicate pastry casing, most often puff pastry, oval or semi-circular in shape, breaded and fried. The filling is entirely optional and determines the name. Rissoles differ from cromesquis in that the latter's casing is made from paneer or wafer, in a long, square shape, also breaded and fried. "
( https://www.savoie-mont-blanc.com/gastronomie-terroir/recettes/recette-rissoles/ )(and Pierre-Yves Goy) In Savoy, rissoles are pastries that were only made at Christmas in families. The puff pastry was homemade and the bravest would do the most "turns" of folding. On the other hand, a compote of apples (or very hard pears, inedible raw, which were called "iron pears") was cooked for a long time until they were candied; sometimes, a few raisins or diced candied fruit were added, and they could be flavored with orange blossom water. The rissoles were arranged on boards, placed in the attic (a wooden shed next to the farmhouses) to prevent rodents from eating them, as they were cooked at the last minute. There were two schools of thought regarding cooking:
baking in the oven
or frying in fat (rarely lard, most often oil).
Even today, there are rissoles competitions (r'zules, in the local dialect) at Christmas.
RISSOLER:
(TLFi) To place meat or vegetables over high heat or at a high temperature to brown the surface and make it crispy.
RISTRETTO:
(B. Puar) A ristretto is a short espresso, equivalent in French to a strong coffee. A ristretto is made by passing 22 mL of water through a 7 g dose of coffee, for 20-25 seconds.
RITES OF PASSAGE:
(ref nec) Hoaxes targeting novices, apprentices, and trainees. The victim is sent from employee to employee throughout the restaurant, and each employee, in collusion with the previous one, pretends to have lent the desired tool or product to another employee. These tools or products are unique in that only one exists and must be returned immediately. Examples include:
- trout blue cheese for cooking trout in blue cheese sauce
- a ladder for whipping egg whites
- a parsley curler
- a sauce-thickening string.
BASMATI RICE:
(Robert) This is an Indian rice with very small, long grains and a distinctive taste; the rarer "old" basmati is highly prized by Indians and Pakistanis. It is a fragrant rice, and the grains are called naan.
WHITE RICE:
(CNRTL) Cargo rice from which the embryo and hard layers of the pericardium have been removed. Parboiled or pre-treated is paddy rice that has been thoroughly cleaned, soaked in hot water, and steamed at low pressure; parboiled or pre-treated white rice undergoes the same treatment but is husked and polished.
CAMOLINO RICE:
(Larousse gastronomic) Polished rice that has been lightly coated with oil.
CAROLINA RICE:
(Larousse cuisine) This is a rice which corresponds to a superior quality, rice with a medium round, medium long grain, cultivated in Greece.
CARGO RICE or WHOLEGRAIN RICE:
(CNRTL) Also called brown rice. Wholegrain rice. Paddy rice stripped of its glumes and lemmas (outer hull), but with the bran and germ still present.
CONDÉ RICE:
()
Creole-Style Rice:
(Cooking Guide) Place 250 grams of rice in a saucepan with half a liter of water, 30 grams of lard, and 6 to 8 grams of salt. Cover the saucepan and boil over fairly high heat for 18 to 20 minutes. At this point, the rice should be cooked and have absorbed all the liquid. Then, using a fork, mix in another 30 grams of lard.
PARBOILED RICE:
(ref nec) In the 1910s, the German-British scientist Erich Gustav Huzenlaub (1899-1964) and the British scientist Francis Heron Rogers invented a form of parboiling that contained more nutrients in the rice, known today as the Huzenlaub process.
RICE FLAKES:
(Larousse) These rice flakes, in English, are rice prepared with parboiled, hulled rice, then flattened into thin strips; they are breakfast cereals.
They are cooked grain or broken rice, molded into flakes, then toasted and oven-dried.
GLUTEN RICE, or STICKY RICE:
(Larousse cuisine) Long-grain rice, quite rare, with a high starch content. A variety of rice characterized by a low amylose level and a high amylopectin content.
PUFFED RICE:
(nef nec) This is a type of rice from India that is roasted and then pan-fried on hot sand; in the United States, it is first heat-treated under high pressure, then heat-treated under low pressure. Puffed rice (pori) is mentioned in Tamil literature as an offering to Hindu deities.
ICED RICE:
(CNRTL) Polished rice, coated with a thin layer of talc suspended in a glucose solution.
PADDY RICE:
(CNRTL) Rice with its husk still attached. From the Malay word padi, which refers to rice still standing in the paddy field, in its raw state. It is unhulled rice that retains its husk after threshing.
FRAGRANT RICE:
(Larousse de la cuisine) Rice from Vietnam and Thailand, with long grains, has a very particular taste.
POLISHED RICE:
(CNRTL) White or bleached rice, free of flours that adhere to the grains.
TAMPON RICE:
(Kitchen Directory) Patna rice, blanched for 5 minutes, drained and rinsed a second time in hot water, drained again. Line a pot with strips of bacon, add rice and alum. Cover with more bacon strips and let it cook gently in a dry place for 5 hours. Pound and crush the rice in a cloth coated with lard. Cut it into pieces as desired when cold and store in water with added alum.
PRECOOKED RICE:
(CNRTL) Hulled or blanched rice, then boiled for one to three minutes after soaking, and finally dried at 200 °C.
WILD RICE:
(Littré) Zizanica aquatica, which grows in Jamaica and the United States. Known as wild rice, its black seeds resemble needles and have a nutty flavor.
PUFFED RICE:
(ref nec) Puffed rice is often made by placing the grains under high pressure in the presence of steam. When the grain's outer layer ruptures, the steam expands the endosperm, increasing its volume several times over.
This type of puffed rice is obtained by heating it in oil at 200°C; it resembles popcorn.
SURINAM RICE:
(Larousse Gastronomique) This is a very long grain and very fine rice, produced in Dutch Guiana (Surinam).
RISTE:
(ref nec) A Provençal dish originating from the Arles region. Riste consists of tomatoes, eggplant, onions, garlic, aromatic herbs, and bay leaf. The eggplant is fried separately, and the tomatoes are peeled and chopped. Then the chopped onions are sautéed, to which the remaining ingredients are added, and the mixture is stirred frequently with a wooden spoon: a riste is "returned" much like ratatouille is "stirred."
RIVE
(bakery) Near the mouth of the oven.
RM
(ref nec) Designation found on a Champagne label. This refers to a Grower-Producer who produces only wines from their own harvest on their premises.
ROBE:
(The Butcher-Caterer's Companion's Book) Part of the pig's digestive tract, also called the "chill's tail" or "spit." Anatomically, this part corresponds to the sublumbar portion of the smooth or floating colon and measures approximately one meter in length. The robe is used for stuffing andouillettes and for wrapping certain dry sausages.
(Oenology) The color given to wine as a result of alcoholic fermentation.
White wines range from white to brownish-yellow with intermediate hues such as greenish-white, light yellow, lime, yellow, golden yellow, straw yellow, and amber yellow.
Rosé wines are gray, bright rosé, saffron rosé, and brick-red. Red wines can range from cherry red to dark red, including brick red and onion-skin red, as well as bright red, ruby, garnet, purple, and violet.
ROBERT:
See "Robert's sauce "
See "Richard"
ROBORATIVE:
(TLFi) Fortifying
ROBUST:
(Mr. Ribereau Gayon) This is a qualifier for tannic, powerful, full-bodied red wines.
ROCAMBOLE:
(CNRTL) A type of garlic or shallot from Spain, whose large, wine-red bulb has a milder flavor than garlic.
Annatto:
(French Academy Dictionary) A reddish-orange coloring agent extracted from the waxy pulp surrounding the seeds of the annatto tree. Some South American peoples used to paint their bodies with annatto. Annatto is used in the food industry. (Also called roucou.)
Annatto is a red-orange condiment derived from the seeds of the Bixa orellana tree . It serves as a food coloring, but also contributes to the flavor of dishes, reminiscent of mint, nutmeg, and pepper. Its coloring power comes from its content of carotenoid pigments, primarily bixin and norbixin, present in the waxy cuticle of the seeds.
Annatto and its extracts are used in food products such as cheeses (especially Cheddar), spreads, margarine, pastry creams, sausages, cereals, etc.
Pruning (see topping)
(ref nec) Shortening of overly long shoots to maintain a balanced leaf area. This operation is normally carried out to improve vine aeration and facilitate the passage of agricultural machinery.
TRIM:
(TLFi) That which detaches, that which is removed from something that is trimmed or cut.
Waste resulting from the preparation of butcher's meat, used as food for domestic animals.
Used to refer to the offcuts of puff pastry in pastry making.
ROIGEBRAGELDI:
(H. This) Alsatian dish obtained by long cooking, in a very hot oven, of alternating layers of onions, potatoes and smoked bacon.
TRIM:
(Civa) Trimming consists of cutting the shoots that grow beyond the trellising plane. These shoots, by creating shade, would hinder the ripening of the grapes.
VEAL KIDNEY:
(ref nec) Edible kidney of certain animals belonging to the category of red offal, whose delicacy depends on age and cooking, resulting in appreciated preparations. They are often prepared grilled, on kebabs or pan-fried, for example.
ROLLOT:
(IPCF) Charentes cheese in the shape of a heart with a strong smell, but which is not strong in taste and very fatty.
ROSEMARY:
(CNRTL) Mediterranean shrubby plant of the Lamiaceae family, very branched, with evergreen, opposite, linear leaves, dark green above, whitish below, with small blue flowers, sometimes cultivated as an ornamental plant.
BREAK:
(TLFi) [ Break implies the idea of a sudden separation, a break caused by a shock, a twist, a pull] To separate a solid and rigid thing into two or more parts in one fell swoop. (TLFi) To share bread by hand. By extension: to share one's meal (reminiscent of the Last Supper).
(ref nec) To deflate dough during fermentation. Synonym of "fold".
ROMPOPE:
(ref nec) Preparation of Mexican origin made from egg yolks, vanilla, cinnamon, ground almonds, sugar and alcohol.
ROUND:
(Mr. Ribereau Gayon) This impression of roundness in the mouth emerges when the suppleness, flesh and mellowness of a wine form a pleasant tasting experience.
CHARGE ROUND:
(The butcher-caterer's companion's book) Plate that is placed on the food to be cooked to hold it in the cooking element.
NAPKIN RING:
(TLFi) Ring into which a previously folded and rolled napkin is slipped at the end of a meal.
ROND DE VEINE:
(ref nec) Another name for a "nutty" cottage in the Marseille region.
Another name for a "back cottage" in the Guéret region.
RONDEAU:
(ref nec) A casserole dish or rondeau is the same size as a saucepan, but it has two handles. It is used with a lid except at the beginning of cooking to brown food. Cylindrical shape, height equal to radius.
(TLFi) Round peel used for loading bread into the oven.
RONDELLE:
(TLFi) Thin slice cut from a cylindrical or spherical object, in particular , from an edible product of this shape.
(ref nec) Cylindrical vegetables cut into slices 0.2 to 0.5 cm thick.
FLUORESCENTED RING:
(ref nec) Cylindrical vegetables with a surface hollowed lengthwise at regular intervals using a fluter, then cut into rings.
RONDIN:
(CNRTL) A short jacket with pockets and rounded hems worn by waiters.
(CNRTL) A waiter dressed in a rondin; a close-fitting black vest with numerous pockets and a long white apron rolled around the waist, hence the name rondin.
(CNRTL) A type of small barrel.
RONDINE:
(ref nec) Said of a loaf of bread with no grit.
ROQUILLE:
(CNRTL) An old unit of capacity for liquids, worth approximately a quarter of a setier, or one-eighth of a liter. To be avoided.
ROSE DES RICEYS:
(Ribereau-Gayon) Rosé des Riceys is a French rosé wine with a protected designation of origin (AOC) from the Champagne wine region. Its production is limited to the commune of Les Riceys, the southernmost commune in the Champagne wine region, bordering Burgundy and the only one to hold all three Champagne appellations.
ROSETTE:
(ref nec) The terminal part of the chitterlings, used for packaging certain charcuterie specialties.
(TLFi) By ellipsis of "saucisson rosette," a dry sausage made in the Lyon region. It takes its name from the casing in which it is stuffed (the terminal part of the pig's intestine, called "rosette" because of its color). It is tied to maintain its shape during drying; the casing is coated with saltpeter to prevent mold and fat runoff. It requires at least fifty days of drying and maturation before being eaten.
A rosette de Lyon generally weighs between 550 and 700 grams and does not exceed 15 or 20% fat.
The rosette and the Jésus sausage have already held the Label Rouge quality mark since 2001; the two dry Lyon sausages now benefit from a PGI (Protected Geographical Indication).
(DGCCRF) Rosette and Jésus de Lyon are two dry-cured sausages belonging to the category of large cuts of meat. The products can be sold whole or pre-sliced and packaged. The recipes and manufacturing processes are identical for both products; the only difference lies in the casing used: pork rosette (rectum) for Rosette de Lyon, which gives it its characteristic tapered shape, and pork sac for Jésus de Lyon. The minimum weight for labeled products has been set at 550 grams.
RÖSTI:
(Switzerland: https://www.lt.bkd.be.ch/fr/start/traditionen/berner-roesti.html ) Potato pancake cooked in the English style, then grated.
In the days when potatoes were the staple food in Switzerland, they were cooked in various ways. In the 19th century, " prötleten Herdöpfel" appeared in Zurich and became known beyond the Bernese and Alpine regions, reaching French-speaking Switzerland, where they were called "Roasted Potatoes," hence their current name, Rösti. Zurich and Bernese farmers originally ate Rösti for breakfast. The dish was placed in the center of the table, and everyone served themselves with a spoon. It was customary to dip the spoonful of Rösti into a large cup of coffee with milk. Shortly after, the Bernese version of Rösti appeared, prepared with small pieces of bacon and milk. Today, Rösti are cooked with various ingredients such as herbs or even a fried egg. They are considered a typical Swiss dish both in Switzerland and abroad.
ROTEUSE:
(fam) Bottle of champagne.
SUPERIOR COOKED PORK ROAST SKINLESS AND DEGREASED
(ref nec) The roast has been completely stripped of its rind, and the thickness of the peripheral fat does not exceed, on average, 4 millimeters.
BRAISED PORK ROAST:
(ref nec) The roast is cooked in a closed vessel, with very little liquid, after browning, or the cooking is followed by browning.
PORK ROAST COOKED IN BROTH:
(ref nec) The roast is cooked in contact with broth.
ROAST PORK COOKED IN A TOWEL:
(ref nec) The roast is cooked in broth, surrounded by a cloth, a bag, a net or textile strips.
ROASTIES:
(PF La Varenne) minced veal kidneys, chervil, salt, cinnamon, egg yolk, sugar, on bread
Toasts, by H. This.
Toasts? Anyone who reads cookbooks has a vague idea of what they are, especially since some regional cuisines still mention them. But what exactly are they?
The digitized Treasury of the French Language provides a definition:
A slice of bread toasted on the grill or in front of the fire, fried in butter or oil in a pan, eaten plain or topped to accompany breakfast or afternoon tea, glasses of wine served at the beginning of a meal, soups and stews, or poultry served as canapés. And it mentions toasts with butter, ham, jam…
It's truly an old practice, since it can already be found in 1604 in a recipe for "Cow's Tits," in Lancelot de Castelnau's *Opening of the Kitchen*:
For the cow's udder, let it be well cleaned after cooking, and place it in a veal cloth, well tied, and put it on a spit. For the sauce on the breast, take two or three slices of white bread, making sure it's not burnt, and soak the bread in broth with verjuice. Strain the broth with four or five egg yolks, and add nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger, saffron, and sugar. Boil it all together and pour it over the roasted breast.
As for Nicolas de Bonnefons, in 1654, he gives, for example, a recipe for small game.
They are plucked dry and their heads are skinned, the beak being passed through the body from the sides without gutting them. Then they are larded and placed on a spit, skewering it diagonally from the thigh to the wing. Two slices of toasted bread are placed in the drip pan so that the woodcock's droppings will fall on them. Then we make a small sauce with verjuice, salt & a little spice, in which we soak the toast before placing the woodcocks on top.
ROAST:
To cook (meat) on a spit or in the oven (it should be noted that the culinary world was stirred by lively debates at the beginning of the 20th century, when gas was introduced "on all floors", because roasting in the oven does not give the same results as on a spit, so two terms should have been used, and not just one).
ROTISSEUR:
(TLFi) One who is an expert in the art of roasting meats.
A merchant who prepares and sells roasted meats.
A cook in charge of the rotisserie section. They are responsible for roasting, but also very often for frying and grilling. In very large establishments, these three positions were held by specialists: the rotisserie cook, the fry cook, and the grill cook.
One would strongly disagree with one of J.-A. Brillat-Savarin's aphorisms, according to which one becomes a cook, but one is born a roaster.
ROTISSERIE:
(TLFi) A cooking utensil used for roasting meat over a fire, consisting of a long spit passing through the meat and resting simply on two supports in the fireplace.
An open electric oven equipped with a rotating spit used for roasting meat.
(Dic ac fr) A cooking appliance used for roasting meat, which mainly includes a spit and a drip tray. By extension, a type of oven equipped with one or more spits intended for the same purpose.
ROUABLE
(Small baker) Hooked pole, a kind of scraper, which the baker uses to remove or disperse the embers from the bread oven.
ANNUCY:
See "annatto"
ROUND:
(TLFi) A round slice of certain vegetables or meats. Their thickness is approximately one centimeter.
(ref nec) Outer rings of onion slices, 0.2 to 0.5 cm thick, cut perpendicularly. They are also called bracelets.
(The Butcher-Caterer's Companion Book) A term used in the Lyon region to designate a thick slice of meat cut from the bone-in shoulder of pork.
WHEEL:
(milling) Large wheel mounted on the drive shaft and transmitting the movement.
BELGIAN RED:
(ref nec) The Belgian Red is a Belgian cattle breed. It is a new name that replaces the former West Flanders Red. It is considered endangered. It belongs to the Baltic Red branch. In the 19th century, two neighboring red breeds were raised in Flanders: the Cassel and the Veurne-Ambacht. The breeding area was devastated by the battlefields of the First World War, significantly reducing both populations. To quickly rebuild the herds, the two groups were merged, resulting in the West Flanders Red breed.
ROUGE DE L'OUEST:
(ref nec) Originating from crosses between English rams and local breed ewes from the North of the Pays de la Loire, the Rouge de l'Ouest breed is a large breed of sheep distinguished by the maternal qualities of the ewes.
Polish Red:
(ref nec) The Polish Red is a Polish cattle breed. Its Polish name is Polska czerwona, and its international name is English: Polish Red. It has a uniformly red coat. The muzzle and hooves are black. The cow weighs 400 kg and stands 128 cm tall, while the bull weighs 770 kg and stands 138 cm tall. The breed is renowned for its hardiness, inherited from centuries of selective breeding in a cold region with limited access to quality forage. In addition to intrinsic qualities of interest to breeders, such as longevity, fertility, easy calving, and good health, the cows have hard hooves, well-suited to grazing in steep terrain. The animals can withstand periods of food scarcity and then recover their overall good condition. Finally, the breed is able to feed on roughage, which is poorly tolerated by more productive breeds.
RIVER RED:
(TLFi) Wild duck with red legs and plumage.
ROUGE:
(TLFi) Popular name for various mushrooms, more pink or orange in truth, than really red, such as the button mushroom, the Caesar's mushroom, etc.
(TLFi) Name of several marine fish with an elongated body, covered with large red scales: the red mullet proper, the red mullet or surmullet, the red mullet and the red gurnard, highly sought after for their culinary use.
RED MULLET:
(CNRTL) Name given to various red-colored fish, and especially to a small Mediterranean fish with two long barbels under its lower jaw. An ambiguous vernacular name given in French to several species of bony fish, most often found in the Mediterranean. Gurnards or trigles (order Scorpaeniformes), also called "red mullet," represent several species of fish.
REDNESS:
(The Butcher-Caterer's Handbook) A component of meat production, composed of lean and bloody fat resulting from trimming the throat at the bleeding wound; these pieces are likely to be heavily contaminated and should not be used in charcuterie products that do not undergo heat treatment. It is advisable to salt them as soon as they are collected, at the time of butchering the carcasses.
ROULADE
(ref nec) The term "roulade" is traditionally used to designate a product of approximately cylindrical shape, and it covers various charcuterie products with a lean meat content of less than 20%. These are cooked preparations presented as fairly large pieces (rarely exceeding 2 kg). Two types of heat treatment are distinguished: roulades made in a mold or wrapped in a cloth; and roulades stuffed into animal or cellulose fiber casings.
(IPCF) Liqueur wine obtained from grape must—reduced or not—brandy made from marc or wine, and various flavorings.
CHEESE ROLL:
(ref nec) A preparation whose mixture is similar to a béchamel with Gruyère cheese, or a Mornay sauce, which fills hollow puff pastry shells.
CROISSANT CUTTING ROLL:
(ref nec) Roller having in its middle a cutting wheel ensuring the cutting of croissant dough into triangles.
ROLLING ROLLER:
(ref nec) Cylinder whose ends allow the thickness of the dough to be rolled out to be calibrated in relation to the work surface.
UNIVERSAL ROLLING ROLLER
(ref nec) Stainless steel roller with interchangeable tips and different dimensions which allows you to make rolls of regular thickness.
NOUGAT AND NOUGAT ROLLER:
(ref nec) Stainless steel roller whose material allows for easy spreading of nougat and nougat. Some contain a cooling liquid to optimize spreading.
ROLLING PIN:
(TLFi) Cylinder, usually made of wood, mounted on an axle extended by handles, which is rolled over the dough.
QUICK-PICKING ROLLER:
(ref nec) Roller with a handle bristling with points, used to prick the dough before baking.
SPRING ROLL:
(CNRTL) A dish from Sino-Vietnamese cuisine, made of rice crepe or a square of egg dough stuffed with minced meat and shrimp.
LICORICE ROLL:
The licorice roll is made of molasses, wheat flour, glucose syrup, Calabrian licorice extract, salt, natural flavoring, anise, and vegetable oil.
This treat comes in the form of a rolled ribbon made of two glued strands of soft licorice.
Originally, the licorice roll had a small, colorful licorice-flavored candy in its center, which was eaten before unrolling the ribbon.
ROULETTE:
(ref nec) Small disc with grooved edges, mounted on a movable axis, which is maneuvered by means of a handle, to cut firm pasta.
ROOSTER'S TESTERS:
ROULETTE DU BUGEY:
(IPCF) Rolled and cooked pork belly made by all the butchers of Bugey.
ROUPETTES A QUEUE:
(French language) Cherry macerated in brandy.
ROUX:
(ref nec) Preparation obtained by very gentle heating of fat (most often butter) and flour, until a light color is obtained.
WHITE ROUX:
(ref nec) Melt butter, add flour, cook for a few minutes.
BLOND ROUX:
(ref nec) Proceed as with the white roux, and continue cooking until the roux takes on a blond hue.
BROWN ROUGE:
(ref nec) Like a white roux, but the cooking is pushed to a "café au lait" hue.
ROYALE:
(Favre) Liquid set with a gel using whole egg. Sometimes the gel is cut into cubes which are added to a soup:
"Beat the whole eggs and yolks with the consommé; add the seasoning and pass through a cloth or sieve; put in a saucepan or a plain mold; cook gently in a bain-marie in the oven, taking care not to let the water boil. When the loaf is cooked and slightly cooled, which gives it consistency, unmold it onto a saucepan lid; with a slicer, cut off the top if there was any residue, and optionally, cut the loaf as desired: with a round cutter, into small square cubes, but most often into diamonds. These are then slid directly into the tureen or a small saucepan containing hot consommé."
ROYALE (A LA)
(PF La Varenne) Mutton leg à la Royale: beaten, boned, floured, cooked with broth, mushrooms, truffles, offal, onion, vinegar, bacon, pomegranate or lemon.
(Lent) Poached fish, with carp roe, breaded and fried smelt, fillets of sole Conti, Champagne wine sauce, anchovy butter, monkfish livers, truffles, oysters
(Favre) Or to describe various culinary preparations, to indicate their richness. This is especially true of the Royale gravy and royal icing.
What is a hare à la royale, by H. This
Let's be wary of Wikipedia, because consulting the precise sources shows that this remarkable online encyclopedia often needs correcting... and we'll see that I must do so without delay for the article on hare à la royale. Indeed, it is sometimes written that "à la royale" preparations describe dishes whose finesse and quality of preparation are in the style of the king, but this is quite insufficient, as we will see, and, first of all, starting in 1643, with the book by the author who signed only with his initials "LSR". I thus find a "Gigot de mouton farcy à la Royale" (Stuffed Leg of Mutton à la Royale), which is obtained in the following way: 1. take a leg of lamb 2. break the shank 3. remove the skin 4. remove the meat and chop it with veal, bacon, marrow, beef fat, herbs, mushrooms, hard-boiled eggs, seasoned with spices and fine salt 5. Dredge in flour and sauté in butter or lard. Then place in a saucepan with stock and a piece of beef (which will add more flavor), a few cloves, and onions. After about an hour of cooking, remove from the saucepan and reduce the liquid. The expression "à la royale" applies not only to meats but also to soups: as early as 1656, the cook Pierre de Lune proposed a recipe that consisted of chopping chicken breast and cooking it with stock, pistachios, and veal stock; it was garnished with rooster combs and kidneys, lemon juice, and veal. Then, in 1722, François Massialot took up the recipe for leg of lamb, using the same recipe as LSR. Just like others who followed him. At that time, there was no hare à la royale! Let's skip ahead a few decades and arrive at Jules Gouffé, who, in 1867, once again presented a soup à la royale... which is actually a "julienne garnished with consommé cream." It's really a set cream, made with consommé and whole eggs, cooked in a bain-marie; and then the julienne is poured over it. There's a real logic to using the word "royale," because it's true that "royales" were cubes of flan that were added to soups. So this is a different meaning than for leg of lamb à la royale, or for hare à la royale, which I still can't find in old books… Similarly, when he speaks of "royal ice," he's referring to that pastry preparation made with egg whites and sugar: nothing to do with it. But Gouffé puts us on the right track with a "Sauce à la Royale," the recipe for which is as follows: "Place 3 dozen small, raw truffles, turned into olives, in a small saucepan, moisten them with half a glass of dry champagne, add a bunch of parsley; reduce the liquid while cooking the truffles. —Separately, pour 7 to 8 deciliters of velouté into a sauté pan, add the raw truffle trimmings, reduce the sauce by a third,by gradually incorporating 2 deciliters of concentrated game or poultry essence; lastly, add half a glass of Rhine wine and the truffle cooking liquid; Give the sauce a few more boils, strain it through a fine sieve into a saucepan, winnow it, and add the cooked truffles." Moreover, he calls quenelles served with such a sauce "little chicken timbales à la Royale." The same goes for "little chartreuses à la royale." However, his "salpicon royal" is a different preparation, made with foie gras, chicken breasts, lamb sweetbreads, and cooked mushrooms cut into small, fine dice, mixed together, then bound with a reduced béchamel sauce, finished with crayfish butter. But this salpicon is "royal," not "à la royale." There is no hare à la royale in the Culinary Guide in 1901, but, at the same time, Joseph Favre discusses a "royal-style preparation for game soups," with a slightly runny game purée to which a little meat glaze has been added. brown. This device can be used for game soups, or as a garnish. All this shows that the two recipes commonly called "à la royale", for hare, are quite illegitimate and ignorant of the history of cuisine: yes, civet cooked with garlic and shallots in red wine, shredded at the last moment, or a hot galantine stuffed with foie gras and truffles, served in slices covered with a red wine sauce also thickened with blood, are wonderful preparations, but they usurp the name "à la royale".are indeed illegitimate and ignorant of the history of cuisine: yes, civet cooked with garlic and shallots in red wine, shredded at the last moment, or a hot galantine stuffed with foie gras and truffles, served in slices covered with a red wine sauce also thickened with blood, are wonderful preparations, but they usurp the name "à la royale".are indeed illegitimate and ignorant of the history of cuisine: yes, civet cooked with garlic and shallots in red wine, shredded at the last moment, or a hot galantine stuffed with foie gras and truffles, served in slices covered with a red wine sauce also thickened with blood, are wonderful preparations, but they usurp the name "à la royale".
Personally, I speak more accurately of "hare in the style of Senator Couteaux" or "Babinski hare", or even "Alibab hare" in the latter case, because Alibab's cookbook is a collection of recipes by the engineer Henri Babinski.
ROZELL:
(Crêpe maker's glossary, Brittany) Wooden rake used to spread crêpe batter on the billig.
RIBBON:
(TLFi) A mixture of egg yolks or whole eggs and granulated sugar, worked for a long time
(ref nec). This describes the state of egg yolks whisked with sugar, when the mixture whitens and becomes smooth. Microscopy then shows that the whitening is due to the introduction, by the whisk, of numerous microscopic air bubbles.
(ref nec) The state of a preparation that flows slowly and folds back on itself (sponge cake, choux pastry, etc.).
(TLFi) A thin strip of dough (characteristic of "Bourdaloue" preparations).
RUELLAGE (synonym renhausser)
(ref nec) Preparation consisting of raising the soil between and against the vines. Expression still used in the Yonne department, Chablis vineyard.
RUMP STEAK:
(TLFi) A cut of beef sirloin (located behind the ribeye), more flavorful than the tenderloin and providing quality meat for roasting, braising, or grilling.
(ref nec) From the English "rump" (rump) and "steak" (slice or cut of meat). It is a part of the sirloin, that is, the rear of the beef, on the thigh side, from the tail to the extension of the tenderloin or sirloin. The rump steak consists of the rump cap, taken from the lower part; the middle section, which includes the rump cap and the tenderloin, can be sold as a roast. Lean and tender meat, ideal for fondues and kebabs.
RUSSIAN:
(CNRTL) A round saucepan with a vertical rim and a handle, designed to hold a fitting lid, used for cooking in liquid.
(ref nec) The saucepan, or russe, is a basic utensil for reheating and reducing food. It has a cylindrical shape with a height equal to its radius (possibly 0.5 or 1 cm longer for professional models). If the height is greater than the radius, it is no longer a saucepan, but a bain-marie. The saucepan has a handle.
RUTABAGA:
(TLFi) A biennial cruciferous plant of cold and temperate climates, cultivated mainly for its edible root.
By metonymy: The yellow-fleshed root of this plant, used primarily for animal feed and secondarily for human consumption.
