Vincent La Chapelle:
French cook born in 1690 or 1703, died on July 14, 1745, in Apeldoorn. He was employed by the British ambassador in The Hague, Philip Stanhope, 4th Earl of Chesterfield, between 1728 and 1731. In the latter year, he frequented the Grand Lodge of the Freemasons of England in London.
In 1733, while employed by the Earl of Chesterfield, Vincent La Chapelle published, in English, *The Modern Cook* in three volumes.
In March 1734, Vincent La Chapelle accompanied the Prince of Orange when the latter returned to the Netherlands after marrying Anne of Hanover in London. He founded a Masonic lodge on November 8, 1734, probably in The Hague or Leeuwarden. He is the author of three collections of songs. A lodge in the Netherlands still bears his name.
A four-volume French edition of The Modern Cook , Le Cuisinier moderne , was published in Amsterdam in 1735. It is one of the great classics of the 18th century and had a strong influence on aristocratic cuisine in England. To some extent, La Chapelle adapted some of the recipes of his predecessor, François Massialot, who had written Le Cuisinier royal et bourgeois , a book on cooking and confectionery, in 1691. The two authors were, in fact, embroiled in a dispute over the ownership of the recipes. In 1742, he published, in five volumes, * The Modern Cook*, which teaches how to prepare all kinds of meals, both rich and lean, in a more refined manner than has been written before: divided into five volumes, with new tableware designs and tablescapes in the grand style of today, engraved in intaglio… Many recipes are based on traditional Dutch or English dishes, such as pies and steak. He makes extensive use of herbs and oysters. Some recipes are low in fat, while others, which he calls "Indian," are served with rice. Medicinal broths derived from the culinary practices of previous centuries are presented as recipes for dishes particularly useful to the navy, and others intended for a kind of "popular soup" before the term existed.
La Chapelle also worked for John V of Portugal, and later for Madame de Pompadour, mistress of Louis XV of France.
RED LABEL:
(economie.gouv.fr) The Red Label is a national label. It covers all the properties and characteristics of a product. Food products, as well as non-food agricultural products, can obtain the Red Label. To do so, they must comply with a set of specifications and be approved by an interministerial decree.
The Red Label emphasizes superior quality compared to other similar products on the market.
The Red Label is open to all products, regardless of their geographical origin (including those outside the European Union).
Products with a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) or Traditional Speciality Guaranteed (TSG) label can also be awarded the Red Label. However, it is not possible to display both the Red Label and Protected Designation of Origin (PDO/PGI) labels simultaneously. There are more than 400 Red Label specifications approved by the public authorities.
They mainly concern free-range poultry, but also other meats (beef, lamb, pork, veal), cured meats/salted meats, fish products, fruits and vegetables, processed products (pizza, shepherd's pie, etc.), horticultural products (grass, geranium plants, etc.), flour, and honey.
Ploughing
(Civa) Ploughing, 's Ùmfàhra, Ùmbracha: Ploughing is a soil maintenance task carried out with ploughs. It allows for weeding and soil aeration. It also allows for the incorporation of fertilizers and soil amendments that were spread at the end of winter.
STUFFING LACE:
(ref nec) A stainless steel utensil approximately 13 cm long in a helical spiral shape, used to truss a stuffed bird without sewing it up.
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LACTOFERMENTATION
(TLFi) Fermentation of milk under the action of microorganisms.
LAGANE:
(ref nec) Rustic fresh Italian pasta typical of southern Italy, varying in size. They are sometimes made with legume flour.
Sedges:
(ref nec) These plants, with their often sharp leaves and stems that are frequently triangular in cross-section, are commonly called sedges or carex in French. Many grow in damp areas (heathlands, forest ponds, etc.) in cold to temperate regions. The Livarot cheese is surrounded by five sedges.
LAINURE:
(IPCF) Longitudinal crack a few millimeters thick that can develop in cooked pressed cheeses under the effect of fermentation.
MILK:
(economie.gouv.fr) The term "milk" is reserved exclusively for the product of normal mammary secretion, obtained by one or more milkings, without any addition or subtraction.
However, the term "milk" may be used:
a) for milk that has undergone processing that does not alter its composition or for milk whose fat content has been standardized;
b) in conjunction with one or more terms to designate the type, quality class, origin and/or intended use of the milk, or to describe the physical processing to which it has been subjected or the modifications it has undergone in its composition, provided that these modifications are limited to the addition and/or subtraction of its natural constituents.
The term "milk" and the terms used to designate dairy products may also be used in conjunction with one or more terms to designate composite products in which no element replaces or is intended to replace any constituent of milk and in which milk or a dairy product is an essential part, either by its quantity or by its effect characterizing the product.
The animal species from which milk and dairy products are derived only needs to be specified if they are not bovine.
Note:
The regulations concerning the protection of dairy product names aim to prohibit the use of dairy product names for foodstuffs incorporating substitutes for dairy raw materials. However, the following are not considered substitutes:
- additives authorized by the general regulations applicable to them (for example, modified starches or cellulose, which have the status of additives, are authorized in certain dairy products);
- ingredients with a technological purpose, such as starch (other types of starch that do not have the status of additives) or gelatin, but only under certain conditions: use authorized by the regulations defining the dairy product in question (for example, the use of starch and gelatin is authorized in cheese specialties but not in cheeses) and in quantities strictly
limited to the dose necessary to obtain the desired technological effect.
Thus, for example, any food product, whether derived from milk or not, in which milk fat or milk proteins have been replaced, wholly or partially, by vegetable fats or vegetable proteins cannot be called a dairy product (e.g., it is forbidden to call soy juice "soy milk," a product that incorporates vegetable fat cannot be called "cheese," etc.).
(Ref: Regulation (EC) "Single CMO" No. 1234/2007, Annex XII)
FLAVORED MILK:
(Ref: Regulation (EC) "Single CMO" No. 1234/2007, Annex XII) This designation is reserved for sterilized beverages consisting exclusively of skimmed or whole milk, sweetened or unsweetened, with added natural flavoring substances. However, milks flavored with
chocolate or cocoa may also be sold under the name "chocolate milk" or "cocoa milk."
They are stored under the same conditions as sterilized milk.
CONCENTRATED MILK
(Ref: Regulation (EC) "Single CMO" No. 1234/2007, Annex XII) The finished product contains, by weight, at least 7.5% fat and at least 25% total milk solids. The term "unsweetened" is optional.
SKIMMED CONCENTRATED MILK:
(Ref: Regulation (EC) "Single CMO" No. 1234/2007, Annex XII) This is partially dehydrated milk containing, by weight, a maximum of 1% fat and at least 20% total dry extract from milk.
PARTIALLY SKIMMED CONCENTRATED MILK:
(Ref: Regulation (EC) "Single CMO" No. 1234/2007, Annex XII) This is partially dehydrated milk containing, by weight, at least 1% and less than 7.5% fat, and at least 20% total dry extract from milk.
HIGH-FAT CONCENTRATED MILK:
(Ref: Regulation (EC) "Single CMO" No. 1234/2007, Annex XII) This is partially dehydrated milk containing, by weight, at least 15% fat and at least 26.5% total dry extract from milk.
Sweetened Condensed Milk:
(Ref: Regulation (EC) "Single CMO" No. 1234/2007, Annex XII) Unlike the previous product, it does not undergo sterilization because the sugar, by partially replacing water, prevents microorganisms from multiplying. After standardization and pasteurization, it is sweetened by the addition of sucrose (semi-white sugar, white sugar, or refined white sugar). It is then concentrated under partial vacuum and finally cooled before packaging.
RAW MILK:
Raw milk intended for direct human consumption (unprocessed):
Regulation (EC) No 853/2004 (Annex 1, § 4.1) defines raw milk as milk produced by the secretion of the mammary gland of farm animals and not heated above 40°C, nor subjected to any treatment having an equivalent effect.
This milk has therefore undergone no treatment other than immediate mechanical refrigeration after milking on the farm.
To be sold, it must meet regulatory requirements regarding its composition and the health status of the cows from which it is taken. It must be packaged at the place of production and undergo numerous controls (see decrees of August 3, 1984, and August 6, 1985).
The words "raw milk" or "fresh raw milk" are mandatory on the packaging. Its use-by date is very short. It must be kept refrigerated.
WHOLE MILK:
(ref: see Milk) Whole milk is heat-treated milk which, with regard to its fat content, meets one of the following criteria:
- Standardized whole milk: milk with a fat content of at least 3.50% w/w [by mass].
However, Member States may provide for an additional category of whole milk with a fat content of 4.00% (w/w) or higher.
- Non-standardized whole milk: milk whose fat content has not been altered since milking, either by the addition or removal of fat from the milk, or by mixing with milk whose natural fat content has been altered. However, the fat content may not be less than 3.50% (w/w).
FRESH MICROFILTRATED MILK:
(Ref: Regulation (EC) "Single CMO" No. 1234/2007, Annex XII) The designation "fresh microfiltered milk" is reserved for milk obtained by microfiltration of raw milk, to which heat-treated cream or cream having undergone any equivalent treatment may then be added. This milk tests positive for phosphatase. It is packaged and cooled immediately after treatment
to be brought back to a temperature not exceeding 6°C as quickly as possible.
Fresh microfiltered milk must be kept refrigerated.
PASTEURIZED MILK:
(Ref: Regulation (EC) “Single CMO” No 1234/2007, Annex XII) The designation “pasteurized milk” is reserved for milk:
a) obtained by treatment using a high temperature for a short period of time (at least 72°C for fifteen seconds or any equivalent combination) or by a pasteurization process using different combinations of time and temperature to achieve an equivalent effect;
b) immediately cooled after pasteurization to a temperature not exceeding 6°C as soon as possible;
c) showing a negative reaction to the phosphatase test
Eggnog:
(Taride edition, 1956) Egg yolks mixed and whisked with sugar and orange blossom water until pale. When the mixture is white and frothy, add a glass of boiling water while continuing to whisk.
(Larousse) A comforting food consisting of eggs diluted in water or sweetened milk, with or without added orange blossom water.
RICE MILK:
Incorrect terminology, prohibited by regulations: see "rice water" and "plant-based milk (prohibited)"
STERILIZED MILK:
(Ref: Regulation (EC) "Single CMO" No. 1234/2007, Annex XII) The term "sterilized milk" is reserved for milk that has been packaged in an airtight container and then heated for 15 to 20 minutes at a temperature of 115-120°C to destroy any germs that may develop in it. The milk is then rapidly cooled. It can be stored at room temperature as long as the packaging remains unopened.
UHT STERILIZED MILK:
(Ref: Regulation (EC) "Single CMO" No. 1234/2007, Annex XII) The ultra-high temperature process is also a long-life preservation method that reduces heating time: the milk's flavor is better preserved than with standard sterilization. It involves rapidly heating the milk to a minimum temperature of 135°C for 2 to 4 seconds, then packaging it in a sterile environment.
UHT milk can be whole, semi-skimmed, or skimmed. It is sold commercially under the name "UHT sterilized milk." It can be stored at room temperature as long as the packaging remains unopened.
PLANT-BASED MILK ( PROHIBITED TERMINOLOGY )
Since June 14, 2017, the term "plant-based milk" has been prohibited for plant-based drinks by the Court of Justice of the European Union, with the exception of almond milk and coconut milk which are considered cultural exceptions.
BRASS:
(D. Alliot, Larpepem vous louchébem?) Lamb still suckling its mother.
(The butcher-caterer's companion's book) Piglet fed exclusively on its mother's milk.
LAMMALA (or LAMMELE):
(ref nec) The Lammela is an Alsatian biscuit shaped like a lamb and traditionally made at Easter. Made with a sponge-like sponge cake batter, it takes its lamb shape in a terracotta mold composed of two joined forms.
LAMB CHOP:
(ref nec) Grilled meat for one person. It is a slice cut crosswise from the English saddle.
LAMEAU or LAMEAUCHICAS:
(D. Alliot, Larpepem vous louchébem?) Camel, never satisfied customer.
SLICE:
(CNRTL) Fragment, extremely thin slice detached from a whole. Said of vegetable slices prepared with a mandoline.
LAMINATE
(ref nec) To reduce the thickness of an object, material, or substance by applying strong pressure, or to eliminate irregularities in it.
ROLLING MILL
(ref nec) Device for rolling out dough to a regular thickness, by passing between two cylinders.
SUGAR LAMP:
(MRC equipment) Lamp allowing the processing of pulled sugar by maintaining it at the correct temperature.
LAMPIGNOL:
(D. Alliot, Larpepem vous louchébem?) Bad piece of meat.
LANARQUESS, LANARIC:
(D. Alliot, Larpepem vous louchébem?) Hesitant client, "duck".
LANCEROT or LANCERON:
(D. Alliot, Larpepem vous louchébem?) Little pig
LANGOTINE:
(ref nec) Word forged from "lange" and "galantine"; designates a charcuterie preparation made of pig tongues and jelly presented in a parallelepiped block like a galantine.
LOBSTER
(CNRTL) Large crustacean of the order Decapoda, of the suborder Macroura, without claws but equipped with long antennae, highly sought after for its tasty flesh, which is fished in particular on the continental European and African sea shelves.
LANGOUSTINE:
(CNRTL) Small crustacean of the order Decapoda of the suborder Macroura, related to the lobster, whose flesh is highly prized.
Cat's Tongue:
(French Professional Charter for Biscuit and Cake Manufacturers) Flat and oblong in shape, the cat's tongue has a crisp yet melt-in-your-mouth texture. The edges are brown and the
center is lighter. The ingredients of a cat's tongue are sweeteners, eggs, flour, and fat
.
Veal tongue:
(ref nec) Red offal product. A fleshy, muscular, elongated, and mobile organ located in the mouth of a butchered animal. Once the inedible bases of fat and cartilage have been removed, it is consumed after being soaked in cold water, blanched, refreshed, peeled, and cooked. It pairs well with various sauces. It can also be used in a pot-au-feu.
SCARLET TONGUE:
(CNRTL) Charcuterie specialty. Beef tongue colored red formerly with saltpeter then with cochineal carmine, cooked in a beef bladder.
STRIP:
(TLFi) Long and narrow strip. They are produced from vegetables, in particular, and sometimes with the help of a "strip cutter".
WILD RABBIT:
(ref nec) A warren is a wood or wooded area where rabbits live and reproduce in the wild. A wild rabbit (family Leporidae) is therefore a wild rabbit, as opposed to a rabbit kept in a hutch or farmed.
LACQUER:
(ref nec) In cooking, the term "lacquered" applies to products that have been brushed with sweet and sour sauce several times during cooking (lamb, duck, pork, poultry). This method of preparation is increasingly used on fruits (caramel lacquer, for example), on vegetables (meat jus lacquer), and on meats, such as lamb shank or leg of lamb (with balsamic vinegar, honey, maple syrup, a sauce, or spices).
LARD:
(ref nec) Lard is the generic term for three parts of the pig. These are located on the back, belly, and belly of the pig. The back lard, called "bardière" or "panne," is primarily made of fat; the belly and belly lard contains more meat.
In Quebec, "griddles of lard" are slices of salt pork, grilled in a pan and traditionally served at festive meals, carnivals, or during maple syrup season. They are also called "lard ears," "crispy ears," or "Christ ears."
COLONATA LARD:
FAT BACON:
Located between the flesh and the rind, the part near the flesh is used to prepare lard while the part near the rind is used to provide the fatback for pâtés, roasts and poultry.
LARDAGE:
(INBP) Said of croissants (to be completed)
LARDER
(The butcher-caterer's companion's book) To garnish (a piece of meat) with long, thin pieces of bacon pushed through its entire thickness.
LARDIGUEL:
(Crepe maker's book) Mixture of lard and egg yolk used to grease the billig.
LARDON:
(Dictionary of the French Academy) Small piece of bacon.
LARDONNER:
(The butcher-caterer's companion's book) To cut fats, meats or other preparations into small cubes of varying sizes, with a knife or machine.
TEARS:
(H. This, Secrets casserole) Columns of wine that form spontaneously above the wine in a glass when the wine has specific levels of compounds such as ethanol and glycerol. The liquid rises spontaneously above the surface, then falls back down in columns that form spontaneously. Not to be confused with legs, which form when the glass is first tilted.
LASAGNA:
(CNRTL) Pasta of Italian origin, in the shape of a wide, wavy ribbon
LATRONPEM:
(D. Alliot, Larpepem, are you cross-eyed?) Boss.
LATTE:
(ref nec) Synonym of cappuccino.
LATTE ART:
(ref nec) Latte art is a technique for creating designs or patterns on the surface of a latte. The most common designs are the heart, the rosetta, the dragon, the swan, etc. The goal is to enhance the cappuccino.
LATTE MACHIATO:
(ref nec) A latte macchiato is a hot drink made with espresso, hot milk, and milk foam. Its name comes from its speckled appearance: the Italian past participle "macchiato" literally means speckled or mottled ( macchia means "spot" in Italian). A latte macchiato differs from a café au lait or café renversé (upside-down coffee) in that it contains more milk, both in liquid and foam form. It is served in a tall, narrow, thick-walled glass. It should not be confused with a caffè macchiato.
LAUPIETTEPEM:
(D. Alliot, Larpepem, are you cross-eyed?) Paupiettes.
BAY TREE:
(CNRTL) Aromatic tree of the Mediterranean region, with evergreen, smooth and glossy leaves, belonging to the laurel family. The leaves and branches of this tree.
LAVAGNON:
In Charente-Maritime, this bivalve, also called a false clam or flat clam, is abundant on the coasts of Aunis and Saintonge, where it lives buried in the mud. It must be soaked in seawater to remove the sand and purge itself. It cooks very quickly. Simply open them in a pan over high heat.
DISHWASHER:
(French dictionary) Household appliance used to clean dishes.
GLASSWASHERS:
LAVENKELDER:
(ref nec) The Lakenvelder is a Dutch breed of cattle. Animals exported to the United States gave rise to the sister breed known as the Dutch Belted.
As early as the 12th century, Cosmas Pragenis described a team of oxen with a wide white band around their belly. A painting in the Klosterneuburg Abbey Museum in Austria depicts this breed. These traces show that the original coat pattern of the Lakenvelder was probably more common in the Middle Ages, although the genetic origin of the modern Lakenvelder cannot be traced back to it. However, a pencil sketch by François Ryckhals shows a black, belted cow in Zeeland.
Julien Le Paulmier de Grantemesnil:
(E.Haag) Julien Le Paulmier de Grantemesnil, born in 1520 in Agneaux and died in December 1588 in Caen, was a French physician. In 1588, he published the first comprehensive treatise on cider.
Drip pan:
(TLFi) A cooking utensil placed under the spit to collect the fat and juices from the meat being cooked.
Attested as early as the 12th century, "drip pan" is thought to be a corruption of the Old French "lèchefroie," itself composed of the verbs "lécher" (to lick) and "froiier" (which gave rise to the word "froiier," meaning to rub). The drip pan was therefore what collected or "licked" what fell from the spit.
It should be noted that, contrary to what Michel Guérard writes (La grande cuisine minceur), a dish with a rack resting in a drip pan is not itself a drip pan.
LÈCHES:
(The Butcher-Caterer's Companion's Book) Refers to the way of slicing lean meat used in galantines, ballotines, terrines, pies, or pâtés. The shape of the lèche can be compared to that of a French fry.
(TLFi) Thin slice (especially of bread or meat).
LECHEUSE:
(ref nec) In Switzerland, synonym for maryse, spatula.
LECITHINS:
Text taken from the Encyclopedia of the French Academy of Agriculture ( https://www.academie-agriculture.fr/publications/encyclopedie/questions-sur/0801q16-les-lecithines) :
Lecithins, by Hervé This.
Many food products contain "lecithins," but what exactly are they?
Industrial food products sometimes display "lecithins" on their packaging, but what is this ingredient, listed by the European classification of additives under number E322? Here, an examination of the chemical history of food compounds will show us that regulations would benefit from being more aligned with the definitions given internationally by chemists.
In another text, we discussed the term "chlorophyll," which was initially introduced by chemists to designate the green material that can be extracted from green plants… before it was discovered that it was actually a variable mixture of numerous compounds. Having understood, in particular, that this green matter was made up of many green, blue, yellow, orange, and red pigments, chemists decided internationally to reserve the name "chlorophylls" (plural) for specific pigments, and more specifically, green pigments with a very particular molecular structure. The same historical sequence is found with many animal and plant substances. For example, again following the work of chemists (of the 18th century, in this case), the substance isolated from egg white by evaporating water was long called "albumin," before advances in chemistry made it possible to understand that it was a variable mixture, which led to reserving the word "albumins" (plural) to designate specific proteins.
The same is true for "lecithin": it was discovered in 1845 by the French chemist Theodore Nicolas Gobley (1811-1876), who succeeded in extracting it from egg yolk. He coined the name from the Greek word lekythos, meaning "egg yolk," and this definition persisted until 1850. The chemical nature of lecithin remained unknown until 1874. Then, advances in chemistry clarified the composition of the substance isolated by Gobley, which was actually a mixture of several compounds.
The cacophony arises—creating fertile ground for fraud, dishonesty, misunderstandings, and so on—because technical and technological publications have not kept pace with advances in chemistry, resulting in a proliferation of definitions. For example, some have defined the product marketed as lecithin as "a mixture composed of polar lipids (glycolipids, phospholipids) and triglycerides, obtained from animal or plant tissues" (we will see later that these are the compounds). Others have used this name to refer to "lipids containing phosphorus, extracted from eggs or brain tissue." And a third definition refers to phosphatidylcholine. According to the International Lecithin & Phospholipids Society (ILPS, 2020), lecithin is “a complex mixture of glycerophospholipids of plant, animal, or microbial origin, containing varying amounts of triglycerides, fatty acids, glycolipids, sterols, and sphingophospholipids.” Recently, a researcher (Leonard, 2017) even offered his own definition, calling lecithin “a group of lipid substances found in animal or plant tissues that are essential for cell function.”
In less technical texts, yet other definitions can be found. For example, the Encyclopedia Britannica (2020) includes the third of the previous definitions, but also describes it as a "natural" mixture containing significant proportions of phosphatidylcholine (PC), cephalin (phosphatidylethanolamine, PE), and phosphatidylinositol (PI).
Towards a single, clear definition for all:
All of this should be swept aside, because the 1905 law on the trade of food products mandates healthy, marketable, and... fair products: horse meat is not beef! Fairness requires a single, common definition... which has, moreover, been very clearly given by the International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry (IUPAC): for chemists worldwide, lecithins are "cholic esters of phosphatidic acids" (IUPAC, 2019). Since chemists introduced the word "lecithin," the definition belongs to them, right?
To understand what it means, let's start by analyzing the following representation of a phosphatidic acid molecule. (see https://www.academie-agriculture.fr/publications/encyclopedie/questions-sur/0801q16-les-lecithines )
In such a representation, the vertices bear carbon atoms, the letters O, H, and P indicate oxygen, hydrogen, and phosphorus atoms respectively, the segments represent bonds between atoms, and many hydrogen atoms are omitted for clarity (and it is known that there are enough for each carbon atom to have a total of four bonds). R1 and R2 remain, which we will consider later, but before that, let us observe that, at the center of this structure, we find the following: (see the entry in the Encyclopedia of the French Academy of Agriculture https://www.academie-agriculture.fr/publications/encyclopedie/questions-sur/0801q16-les-lecithines ).
Here, the omitted parts have been replaced by hydrogen atoms (H)... and we find the glycerol molecule, a "sugar" with three carbon atoms.
The phosphatidic acid molecule also contains the phosphorus atom with its neighbors, which corresponds to a phosphoric acid residue. Finally, "R1" and "R2" designate chains of carbon atoms bonded to hydrogen atoms; combined with doubly bonded oxygen atoms, this forms "fatty acids"... but since some atoms are missing, lost during the assembly of the complete molecule, we should rather speak of "fatty acid residues." In lecithins, fatty acid residues have between 6 and 26 carbon atoms, depending on the source: lecithins of animal origin have longer fatty acid residues, while the number of carbon atoms is limited to about 20 for lecithins of plant origin.
Finally, we discussed "cholic" esters of phosphatidic acids, meaning that lecithins contain a residue of a compound called "choline" (see fact sheet https://www.academie-agriculture.fr/publications/encyclopedie/questions-sur/0801q16-les-lecithines). Here, the letter N represents a nitrogen atom.
And for complete lecithins, the molecules are (see fact sheet https://www.academie-agriculture.fr/publications/encyclopedie/questions-sur/0801q16-les-lecithines).
Trade names need revising.
We have seen that there is therefore no ambiguity in the chemistry of lecithins… and this should prompt a rapid evolution of the vocabulary used in industry. Can we really accept that this world uses the term lecithin to refer to mixtures of phospholipids, but also glycolipids, triglycerides, water, and sugars?
Glycolipids, on the other hand, have nothing to do with "cholic acid esters of phosphatidic acid": they are compounds whose molecules consist of a lipid moiety and a small sugar. In the lipid moiety, two fatty acid residues are attached to a glycerol residue, while the sugar residue is often a residue of D-glucose, D-galactose, or inositol. Like phospholipids, these compounds are present in cell membranes. The sugars exit the phospholipid bilayer into the aqueous solutions bounded by the cell membranes. Glycolipids are found in plant and animal tissues, but they are more abundant in photosynthetic algae and plants.
Triglycerides, moreover, have nothing to do with "cholic acid esters of phosphatidic acid": they are the compounds that make up oils, with a glycerol residue linked to three fatty acid residues.
So, why do food products contain lecithins?
Now that we know what lecithins actually are, let's examine their purpose, starting with the case of chocolate making. We'll skip over the roasting of cocoa beans and the pressing of the roasted beans to produce cocoa butter, and focus instead on the "conching" stage, where sugar is added to this cocoa butter mixed with plant matter. This is traditionally done in a heated millstone, which rotates until the grains are reduced to very small particles, less than the 15 thousandths of a millimeter that can still be felt between the teeth. When the millstone rotates like this, it struggles within the mixture and consumes a considerable amount of energy, particularly because the sugar granules are surrounded by a thin layer of water… which doesn't mix well with the melted fat. As soon as lecithins are added to the mixture, the effect is noticeable: the millstone begins to turn more easily, the rotation being facilitated because the lecithins promote contact between the fat and the water.
Lecithins owe this "surfactant" action to their molecular structure: the "head" is soluble in water, while the two "legs" are soluble in non-polar liquids, such as oils (Figure 1). The molecule is said to be "amphiphilic."
Figure 1. Molecular structure of a phospholipid. See https://www.academie-agriculture.fr/publications/encyclopedie/questions-sur/0801q16-les-lecithines
In various food products, lecithins also play this "surfactant" role, reducing the energy required to disperse fat, in the form of droplets, in an aqueous solution, or vice versa. Consider, for example, the famous mayonnaise sauce, where the egg yolk provides both water and lecithins, and where oil is dispersed by adding it drop by drop (although, in this case, the proteins also provided by the egg yolk are much more active than the lecithins).
Are these lecithins used by the food industry "dangerous," as some critics of "additives" claim? The first response is that lecithins are present even within the cells of our bodies: these cells are enclosed by a "membrane," which is a double layer of phospholipids or glycolipids, among other things. Eating meat, fish, vegetables, or fruit means consuming lecithins in large quantities, even without any intervention from an industry that some criticize for reasons we will not analyze here.
Figure 2. Compositions of various commercial preparations sold under the name "lecithins" (left) and their fatty acid residue compositions (right). See https://www.academie-agriculture.fr/publications/encyclopedie/questions-sur/0801q16-les-lecithines
References
EFSA ANS Panel (EFSA Panel on Food Additives and Nutrient Sources added to Food: Mortensen A, Aguilar F, Crebelli R, Di Domenico A, Frutos MJ, Galtier P, Gott D, Gundert M, Remy U, Lambré C, Leblanc JC, Lindtner O, Moldeus P, Mosesso P, Oskarsson A, Parent-Massin D, Stankovic I, Waalkens-Berendsen I, Woutersen RA, Wright M, Younes M, Brimer L, Altieri A, Christodoulidou A, Lodi F, Dusemund B). 2017. Scientific opinion on the re-evaluation of lecithins (E 322) as a food additive, EFSA Journal,15(4), 4742; doi:10.2903/j.efsa.2017.4742; https://efsa.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.2903/j.efsa.2017.4742, last access 2020-05-21.
Encyclopedia Britannica. 2020. Lecithin, https://www.britannica.com/science/lecithin, last access 2020-05-21.
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IUPAC. Compendium of Chemical Terminology, 2nd ed. (the "Gold Book"). Compiled by AD McNaught and A. Wilkinson. Blackwell Scientific Publications, Oxford (1997). Online version (2019-) created by SJ Chalk. ISBN 0-9678550-9-8. https://doi.org/10.1351/goldbook.
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Wareing M. 2005, The Cook's Book: Recipes and Step-by-Step Techniques from Top Chefs, DK Publishing, Copenhagen, Denmark.
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Wunderlich L, Szarka A. 2014. A biokemia alapjai, Typotex Kiadó, Budapest.
LECYTHITE
(boulangerie.net) Thin slice (especially of bread or meat).
LIGHT:
(Mr. Ribereau-Gayon) For a wine, it is the fact of containing few phenolic compounds, being fresh, low in alcohol with a light color.
VEGETABLE:
(CNRTL) Old: Seeds that are in a pod.
Edible part of a vegetable plant. Vegetable plant of which at least one part (root, bulb, stem, leaf, flower, seed, fruit) is used for human consumption.
DRIED VEGETABLE:
(CNRTL) Edible seeds that can be stored for a long time.
GREEN VEGETABLE:
(CNRTL) Vegetables whose edible part (leaf, fruit) is green.
VEGETABLE PREPARATION:
(ref nec) Part of a kitchen brigade. Basic preparation room equipped for peeling and washing vegetables.
VEGETABLE BOX:
(ref nec) Staff responsible for washing and peeling vegetables in a kitchen brigade.
(CNRTL) Earthenware, metal, or porcelain dish, shallow and sometimes with a lid, in which vegetables are served.
LEGIMINOUS, LEGUMINEOUS (adjective):
(CNRTL) Plant whose fruit is a pod.
LEGUMES:
(CNRTL) In the plural: Family of dicotyledonous plants, of the order Rosales, of the branch of Angiosperms.
LEMBERTINE:
(ref nec) Machine invented around 1796 by Lembert. This kneading machine won a prize in 1811 at a competition organized by the Society for the Encouragement of National Industry.
LERINA:
(IPCF) Herbal liqueur made by the monks of the Island of Lérins.
SOURDOUGH:
(TLFi) A piece of bread dough that is left to ferment and then incorporated into the fresh dough to make it rise.
(Decree No. 93-1074 of September 13, 1993, issued for the application of the law of August 1, 1905, concerning certain categories of bread) "Sourdough is a dough composed of wheat and rye flour, or only one of these two ingredients, potable water, possibly with added salt, and subjected to a natural acidifying fermentation, the function of which is to ensure the rising of the dough.
Sourdough contains an acidifying microflora consisting essentially of lactic acid bacteria and yeasts. However, the addition of baker's yeast ( Saccharomyces cerevisiae ) is permitted in the dough intended for the final stage of kneading, at a maximum dose of 0.2% of the weight of flour used at this stage."
Sourdough starter may be dehydrated provided that the dehydrated starter contains a live bacterial flora of approximately one billion food-grade bacteria and one to ten million yeasts per gram. After rehydration, and, if necessary, the addition of baker's yeast ( Saccharomyces cerevisiae ) under the conditions stipulated in the preceding paragraph, it must be capable of ensuring proper rising of the dough.
Sourdough starter may be inoculated with microorganisms authorized by order of the Minister of Agriculture and the Minister responsible for consumer affairs, issued after consultation with the Food Technology Commission established by Decree No. 89-530 of July 28, 1989, creating the Food Technology Commission.
(Roussel, Onno, Michel and Sicard, 2020, Sourdough Bread Making, Versailles: Quae) "A generic term used in various sectors (baking, brewing, fermented dairy products, etc.) to refer to a pre-fermented environment used to inoculate a product. It is an ecosystem composed of microorganisms interacting with the environment. It is also the site of endogenous and microbial enzymatic activities that contribute to modifying the matrix."
STARTER:
(ref nec) A piece of dough taken from a batch of dough, used to make a sourdough starter.
Or bread starter. It is basically a mixture of wheat or rye flour, salt, and water, subjected to a slow fermentation (24 to 48 hours) initiated by yeasts and lactic acid bacteria contained in the flour. It is used as an inoculum for bread making.
LEVAIN TOUT POINT:
(ref nec) Sourdough obtained from a mother sourdough after one or more refreshments and which is used to inoculate the final dough.
LEVÉE
(boulangerie.net) Synonym of "pousse".
LEVER
(ref nec) Gently remove the limbs of a poultry or the fillets of a fish with a knife.
LEVETON:
(boulangerie.net) Yeast
LEVERAUT:
(ref nec) A leveret (or leveret) is a young hare. Its mother is called a doe.
YEAST:
(ref nec) A substance made of microorganisms of the yeast class.
These microorganisms are living, unlike "raising powders," which are mixtures of mineral compounds.
(ref nec) Unicellular microorganisms that transform grape juice into wine through alcoholic fermentation.
(Civa) Yeasts, d'Hef: Yeasts are responsible for alcoholic fermentation. Indigenous yeasts originate from grapes and winemaking equipment. Selected yeasts, chosen for their technical or organoleptic characteristics, can also be used.
Yeasts and Raising Agents,
by H. This, vo Kientza. Confusion is common between yeasts and raising agents… and it must be said that this confusion was created by manufacturers who used the very erroneous and misleading expression "chemical yeast."
What is it?
Yeast, first of all, has been known for many centuries. For example, as early as 1419, a "substance that causes fermentation" was called "leveure." In the past, mixtures of herbs were used to cause beer fermentation, just as mixtures of dried fruit or apple slices are still sometimes used today to start a sourdough starter.
Then came Louis Pasteur, who showed that it is neither herbs, nor fruit, nor the operation of the Holy Spirit that causes fermentation, but rather living organisms present all around us. When a fruit or vegetable in a salad bowl becomes covered in mold, it's because such a "microorganism" has been carried by the air. They are everywhere, and their nature and species depend in particular on temperature, humidity, sunlight, and soil. This explains why wines, cheeses, vinegars, and cured meats vary from region to region. For example, for lambic beers, which are naturally inoculated, the wort is carried to the top of the brewery and exposed to the surrounding microorganisms. It has been shown that, on either side of a hill in Belgium, different beers are obtained from the same ingredients. This, in particular, is what terroir is all about.
When Pasteur discovered microorganisms in this way, he also enabled the domestication of "yeasts," specific species of microorganisms. Hence the need for mastery of fermentation… which comes with a change in taste: for bread, the difference between bread made with home yeast and sourdough bread made with wild yeasts is the same as that between a button mushroom and a wild one. But it's worth noting that companies now sell microorganisms of a thousand different types, for very different flavors.
In short, yeasts are living microorganisms: reduced to a single "cell" (like a small sealed sac), which lives because it contains everything necessary for its development and reproduction. As soon as conditions allow—that is, in the presence of water and nutrients, at a mild temperature—a single yeast cell gives rise to two, each of which divides, and so on explosively. Furthermore, since yeasts "respire," they release carbon dioxide, which makes breads and pastries rise, including our wonderful kugelhopfs.
Baking powders? Nothing like that! This time, it's simple chemistry, like when you put white vinegar on a shrimp's shell: bubbles appear because the acetic acid in the vinegar reacts with the calcium carbonate in the shell, producing the same carbon dioxide as before. By slightly refining the reagents, manufacturers have learned to create powder mixtures that, while stable when dry, begin to react in cake batters during baking when there is both water (often from the egg) and heat (from baking). This is how cakes, muffins, and other baked goods work.
Why is it important to distinguish between the two products? Because the gas release rates are completely different and occur at different points in the recipe, resulting in very different textures. Furthermore, yeast fermentation isn't simply a matter of the preparation rising: it also produces numerous aromatic and flavorful compounds that contribute to the taste of fermented products. And taste is essential, isn't it?
Therefore, it's misleading to refer to them as "chemical leavening agents": raising powders only replicate one of the functions of yeast.
LEZARDE:
(Roussel et al., Glossaire terminologique appliqué aux pains français) The "lézardé" aspect of the bread is a cracked appearance or the presence of cracks on the surface of
the dough.
TIES:
(Civa) Ties, 's Bieja, 's Àbbieja: Performed from mid-February, tying consists of securing the arched cane with a tie. Various materials are used: rushes, rye straw, string, metal rings, plastic ties, etc. Damp weather favors this delicate operation, as the cane is more flexible. The bending must be completed before budbreak, the start of the vine's vegetative cycle.
Thickening:
An operation that consists of increasing the viscosity of a liquid in order to make a sauce. This term is also used for soups. Traditionally, starch (flour, bread, kneaded butter, etc.), proteins (blood, egg), fat (to produce emulsions), and polymers (non-coagulating proteins, polysaccharides, etc.) are used.
GERMAN-STYLE STICKING:
(J. Gouffé, "The Cookbook," 1867) German-style thickening is based on flour dissolved in water, milk, or broth. Flour is mixed with a little liquid. It is then passed through a sieve and poured into the dish to be thickened.
HOT CHAIN:
( https://www.chainedufroid-haccp.com/liaison-froide_liaison-chaude.php) Hot chain is a food preservation process that involves maintaining a temperature above 63°C from cooking until delivery. Thus, from the end of production, the temperature is maintained above 63°C during storage, delivery, and service: receipt of raw materials, storage (in a negative or positive cold room, or in storage), unpacking, cooking, hot packaging (+63°C), labeling (+63°C), portioning, transport (+63°C), plating, holding at temperature, and serving.
COLD CHAIN:
( https://www.chainedufroid-haccp.com/liaison-froide_liaison-chaude.php) Cold chain is a food preservation process prior to consumption in which food undergoes rapid refrigeration immediately after cooking before being stored at a low temperature: receiving raw materials, storage (in a negative or positive cold room, or in storage), unpacking, cooking, hot packaging (+63°C) and rapid cooling, cold packaging, labeling, storage (between 0 and 3°C), batching, transport (from 0 to 3°C), receiving, storage (from 0 to 3°C), plating, holding at temperature, serving
LIES
(TLFi) A thick deposit formed by the precipitation of suspended matter in certain liquids, particularly fermented liquids.
(TLFi) Deposit, sediment, residue left by any liquid substance.
(ref nec) A yellowish or reddish deposit settling at the bottom of the vat or barrel. Unlike the coarse lees that the winemaker removes during the first racking, the fine lees are kept for white wines to give them more body and complexity.
(https://www.patrimoineculinaire.ch/Produits?text=Lie&canton=&categorie=#174) Lees and marc are two spirits produced from the distillation of by-products of winemaking. Wine lees refer to the dead yeast and plant residues that settle at the bottom of the container after grape fermentation. By metonymy, the distillate obtained from them bears the same name. The marc, for its part, refers to all the grape skins and seeds remaining after pressing; and by metonymy, the eponymous brandy. Brandy made from lees is always white, while marc, when aged in oak barrels, takes on an amber hue.
(Civa) Lees, d'Hef, d'Wihef, d'Drüesa: Lees are the sediment accumulated during fermentation at the bottom of the vats. They consist of yeasts, bacteria, precipitated tartrates, or other flocculated constituents. Prolonged contact between the wine and the lees (aging the wine) increases the richness and intensity of the wine. They are removed during settling and racking.
LIEBIG:
(molecular cuisine, note-by-note cuisine) The name of the German chemist Justus von Liebig was given to physically gelled emulsions (invention of H. This). A Liebig is obtained, for example, by adding oil to an aqueous solution of gelatin, then allowing the emulsion to stand in order to gel.
Note that Liebigs are similar to—but not identical to—"set mayonnaises," described, for example, by Urbain Dubois: "But one can also prepare set mayonnaise by whisking jelly over ice, incorporating oil and vinegar at the same time, exactly like an egg mayonnaise" [Classical Cuisine, 1856]
CORK:
(Mr. Ribereau-Gayon) One of the materials used to make wine corks. The cork oak is a tree that grows around the Mediterranean (France, Portugal, Spain, Italy, Morocco, etc.) and whose bark is used for corks.
LIÉGEOISE (A LA):
(CNRTL) Method of preparation based on juniper which is used to prepare certain meats.
BINDING
(ref nec) Operation consisting of thickening a sauce using egg yolks, cornflour, white roux, etc.
LINE POTATO:
(CNRTL) Marine fish related to whiting, family galidae, whose flesh is valued.
Pollock and Yellow Pollock:
(CNRTL) Yellow pollock is distinguished by the dark line running through its light-colored body, while black pollock is the opposite: its dark body is intersected by a light line. Black pollock, more economical and less prized, has less delicate flesh than yellow pollock.
HARE:
(ref nec) The hare is a game animal (family Leporidae) with dark flesh. It is a rodent mammal, related to the rabbit, and very fast thanks to its hind legs being longer than its forelegs.
The female is called a "doe," the male a "buck." Wild populations have been considerably reduced by agricultural techniques, land consolidation, and the disappearance of hedgerows.
Hare à la Cabessal:
(ref nec) A Limousin recipe: the hare is stuffed, its stuffing containing foie gras and truffle. The front legs are twisted with the hind legs, resembling a twisted dishcloth, hence the name.
Hare à la Royale:
We sometimes hear talk of a "hare à la royale in the style of Antonin Carême"... but Carême (5 volumes) says nothing about it. See https://nouvellesgastronomiques.com/tout-savoir-sur-le-lievre-a-la-royale/ and also https://nouvellesgastronomiques.com/cuisiner-a-la-royale/
The recipe for hare à la royale, attributed to Antonin Carême, is said to have first appeared in 1775, in Les Soupers de la cour by the cook Menon. At the beginning of the 20th century, two schools of thought clashed: Senator Aristide Couteaux's Poitevin hare à la royale in a compote, with its "thirty cloves of garlic, sixty shallots, and two bottles of Chambertin," and Henri Babinski's (known by the pseudonym Ali-Bab) Périgord hare à la royale in a foie gras roulade, which emphasized "the extensive use of shallots, garlic, truffles, and foie gras."
But let's examine this more closely: what exactly is a "royal" preparation? It is sometimes written that "royal" preparations refer to dishes whose refinement and quality of preparation are in the style of the king, but this is far from sufficient, as we shall see, beginning, first, with the book by the author of 1643, who signed only with his initials, "LSR." One such recipe is "Stuffed Leg of Lamb à la Royale," which is prepared as follows:
1. Take a leg of lamb
. 2. Break off the shank
. 3. Remove the skin.
4. Remove the meat and mince it with veal, bacon, marrow, beef fat, herbs, mushrooms, hard-boiled eggs, seasoned with spices and fine salt.
5. Dredge in flour and sauté in butter or bacon.
6. Then place in a casserole dish with stock and a piece of beef for added flavor, a few cloves, and onions.
7. After about an hour of cooking, remove from the casserole and reduce the liquid.
The expression "à la royale" applies not only to meats but also to soups: as early as 1656, the cook Pierre de Lune proposed a recipe that consisted of mincing chicken breast and cooking it with stock, pistachios, and veal jus; it was garnished with rooster combs and kidneys, lemon juice, and veal. Then, in 1722, François Massialot revived the recipe for leg of lamb, using the same recipe as LSR. Just like others who followed him. At that time, there was no hare à la royale!
Let's skip ahead a few decades and come to Jules Gouffé, who, in 1867, once again presents a "royal soup"... which is actually a "julienne garnished with consommé cream." It's really a set cream, made with consommé and whole eggs, cooked in a bain-marie; and then the julienne is poured over it. There's a real logic to using the word "royal" here, because it's true that "royales" were cubes of flan that were added to soups. So it's a different meaning than for "gigot à la royale" (leg of lamb à la royale), or for "lièvre à la royale" (hare à la royale), which I still can't find in old cookbooks... Similarly, when he speaks of "royal ice," he's referring to that pastry preparation made with egg whites and sugar: nothing to do with it.
But Gouffé puts us on the right track with a "Sauce à la Royale" recipe, which is as follows:
"Place 3 dozen small raw truffles, turned into olives, in a small saucepan, moisten them with half a glass of dry champagne, add a bunch of parsley; reduce the liquid while cooking the truffles. — Meanwhile, pour 7 to 8 deciliters of velouté into a sauté pan, add the raw truffle trimmings, reduce the sauce by a third, gradually incorporating 2 deciliters of concentrated game or poultry essence; finally, add half a glass of Rhine wine and the truffle cooking liquid; bring the sauce to a simmer for a few more minutes, strain it through a fine-mesh sieve into a saucepan, winnow it, and add the cooked truffles."
Moreover, he calls quenelles served with such a sauce "little chicken timbales à la Royale." The same goes for "little chartreuses à la royale." However, his "salpicon royal" is a different preparation, made with foie gras, chicken breast, lamb sweetbreads, and cooked mushrooms cut into small, fine dice, mixed together, then bound with a reduced béchamel sauce, finished with crayfish butter. But this salpicon is "royal," not "à la royale."
There is no hare à la royale in the 1901 Culinary Guide , but, around the same time, Joseph Favre discusses a "royal-style preparation for game soups," with a slightly runny game purée to which a little meat glaze has been added for browning. This preparation can be used for game soups or as a garnish.
All this shows that the two recipes commonly called "à la royale" for hare are indeed illegitimate and ignorant of culinary history: yes, a civet cooked with garlic and shallots in red wine, shredded at the last moment, or a hot galantine stuffed with foie gras and truffles, served in slices covered with a red wine sauce also thickened with blood,They are wonderful preparations, but they usurp the name "à la royale".
It would therefore be more accurate to speak of "hare in the style of Senator Couteaux" or "Babinski hare," or even "Alibab hare" in the latter case, since Alibab's cookbook is a collection of recipes by the engineer Henri Babinski.
A recipe for hare in the style of Senator Couteaux: This dish requires a hare, chopped pork jowl and fresh bacon, fresh foie gras, cognac, wine, small vegetables (onion, garlic cloves, carrots, celery stalks), and spices (thyme, bay leaf, cloves).
After reserving the liver, heart, and kidneys, the rest of the hare is cut into pieces and then wrapped in caul fat. The small vegetables are sautéed in a large casserole dish, then joined by the pieces of hare. The whole thing is moistened with full-bodied red wine, then simmered in the oven long enough for the bones to fall apart on their own. Then the heart, liver, chopped kidneys, and foie gras are simmered with the cooking wine. After reduction, the hare's blood is added along with a glass of cognac. This sauce is poured over the meat and gently warmed before serving.
LIGNIFICATION:
(Civa) Lignification or hardening, from Verholzùng: At the end of summer the branches harden to take on the appearance of wood. This is lignification or hardening.
LIGNIFIED:
(TLFi) Having taken on the characteristics and appearance of wood. See Augusted.
LIMBE
(TLFi) Broad and flattened part of a leaf.
LEMONADE:
(TLFi) A beverage made from lemon or lime juice, water, and sugar.
(TLFi) Carbonated lemonade: A refreshing beverage made from water saturated with carbon dioxide, lightly sweetened, and flavored with lemon syrup or essence.
(TLFi) The trade of those who sell lemonade and other beverages at retail, particularly in drinking establishments.
LEMONADE MAKER:
1. (TLFi) Lemonade maker and seller (see this term).
2. (ref nec) Corkscrew equipped with a bottle opener; it is sometimes also equipped with a blade.
LIMONER
(TLFi) To plunge a fish into boiling water to remove the slime with which it is coated.
(The butcher-caterer's companion's book) In charcuterie, to purge brains under a stream of water in order to more easily remove the bloody membranes.
LIMOUSINE
(ref nec) The Limousin is a hardy French breed originating from the Limousin region, primarily raised for beef production. It is a brown cow, lighter on the belly and around the eyes and muzzle, with light pink mucous membranes. It is renowned for its hardiness, maternal qualities, and the exceptional flavor of its meat, which can be marketed under three different Label Rouge (Red Label) designations. It is also a breed widely used in crossbreeding with local or dairy breeds to improve the conformation of their calves. Since the late 18th century, the breed has had a turbulent history and could even have disappeared, like many other hardy breeds, but the selective breeding efforts of breeders led to the creation of the herd book in 1886, followed by the breed's continued growth since the 1960s.
BREAD PROOFING LINEN
(ref nec) Or baker's blanket. A piece of fabric, often linen, used for proofing several loaves of bread.
LINGUE:
(D. Alliot, Larpepem vous louchébem?) Knife.
(CNRTL) Sea fish of the hake type, with two dorsal fins and one anal fin, commonly called pollock.
LINGUINE:
(ref nec) Long pasta originating from Liguria, similar to spaghetti but flattened in shape
LIPIDS
(PAC, 1995, 67, 1307, Glossary of class names of organic compounds and reactivity intermediates based on structure (IUPAC Recommendations 1995), p. 1348) Name given to compounds of biological origin that are soluble in nonpolar solvents. The lipid category includes saponifiable lipids (meaning: hydrolyzed by a base), such as glycerides (fats and oils) and phospholipids (notably in cell membranes and egg yolks), as well as non-saponifiable lipids, such as steroids (mainly).
LIPOXYGENASE:
(ref nec) Enzyme that catalyzes the oxidation of fatty acids or other alkenes.
LIQUEUR:
(TLFi) Liquid substance.
(TLFi) Sweetened spirit, prepared without fermentation, whose aroma is obtained by distillation, maceration, or the addition of essences.
(TLFi) Alcoholic beverage obtained by distilling fermented fruit juice.
(TFLi) Oenology: Blend of old Champagne wine and cane sugar that allows the sugar content to be adjusted according to the desired taste of the Champagne being produced.
CACAO LIQUEUR:
(ref nec) After roasting and grinding the cocoa into beans, a pure cocoa paste called cocoa liquor is obtained.
Dosage liqueur, or shipping liqueur:
(Champagne) A mixture of very pure cane sugar and old Champagne wine. A specific dosage liqueur is adapted to each cuvée. In Champagne (or any other sparkling wine), it is the amount of sugar added, more or less dosed in the disgorged bottle (between 0 and 6 cl of liqueur), that allows for the creation of the different levels of taste according to criteria defined by the European Union:
– extra-brut: between 0 and 6 g/l of sugar
– brut nature: less than 3 g/l
– brut: less than 15 g/l
– extra-dry: from 12 to 20 g/l
– sec (or dry): from 17 to 37 g/l
– demi-sec: from 33 to 50 g/l
– doux: more than 50 g/l.
This dosage liqueur is prepared a few months beforehand with reserve wine that is at least two years old. It was carefully filtered through sterilizing plates to prevent any yeast or bacteria that could cause unwanted fermentation. This dosing is carried out using an automatic or semi-automatic machine called a "dosing machine." It processes an average of 18,000 bottles per hour.
COMTAT OREGANO LIQUEUR:
(ref nec) A liqueur from the Comtat Venaissin region, produced using marjoram and 60 other plants that grow on Mont Ventoux. These are macerated and then infused, followed by distillation. The liqueur's sweetness comes from the addition of Provençal honey.
FIR LIQUEUR
(IPCF) A liqueur often sold in a handcrafted wooden-style bottle. A clear, syrupy liquid, pale or dark green. Flavored with fir needles. Composed of fir bud alcohol, sugar syrup, plant extracts, distilled water, and possibly natural coloring.
Pontarlier Fir Liqueur:
(Inventory of France's Culinary Heritage, Albin Michel, Paris) A clear, liqueur-like liquid, pale or dark green depending on the brand. It has a fir needle flavor. It is composed of fir bud alcohol (young, unlignified shoots harvested in the spring), sugar syrup, plant extracts, distilled water, and sometimes coloring. It is often sold in a handcrafted wooden bottle. Production began at the start of the 20th century at a distillery in Pontarlier, famous at the time for its absinthe.
LIQUEUR DE TIRAGE
(ref nec) Refers to sparkling wines produced using the traditional method. A mixture of sugar, wine, and starter culture added to the wine to allow it to create its bubbles (see also dosage).
LIQUOREUX (see also MOELLEUX)
(TLFi) Having a high alcohol and sugar content.
(ref nec) Said of a still, unfortified wine, having obtained its residual sugar content (more than 40 grams per liter) through natural concentration by drying on the vine or the action of noble rot.
LISETTE:
(ref nec) In Brittany it's a young mackerel. In Lorraine, it's a fodder beet that is given to feed to livestock.
SMOOTHNESS:
(Roussel et al., Glossary of terminology applied to French breads) The smoothness of the bread, assessed at the end of kneading, can be sufficiently smooth (smooth appearance) or insufficiently smooth (ridged, cracked, torn appearance), but never excessively smooth. Smoothness is always noted as normal or insufficient.
SMOOTH:
(ref nec) To iron a tablecloth that has just been laid to remove creases. In cooking: (1) To smooth a liquid preparation involves whisking it vigorously until it becomes smooth and homogeneous. (2) To smooth the surface of a culinary creation means to flatten it using a spatula or a flexible scraper.
LITEAU:
(ref nec) A serving napkin, usually white. Its function is to protect the server's hands from hot dishes or plates. The liteau is also used to clean the rim of a plate before serving, and to absorb any drips of wine from the neck of a bottle. It is traditionally worn folded lengthwise in thirds over the left arm, never under the armpit or over the shoulder.
LIVAROT:
(ref nec) Livarot is a French cow's milk cheese from Normandy, originating in the commune of Livarot. It has held AOC status since 1975 and AOP status since 1996.
It is a soft, washed-rind cheese, orange in color, cylindrical in shape, encircled by three to five strips of dried and cut cattail stalks (paper strips are also used). These strips originally served to help the cheese maintain its shape during the ripening process.
LOVECH:
(CNRTL) A highly aromatic plant, native to Persia, belonging to the Apiaceae family, whose fruits and roots are used in decoction for their purifying and stimulating properties.
LIVOURNAISE:
See "Livornese sauce".
LOFFIAT or LOUFIAT:
(CNRTL) Slang and pop, Waiter.
LOIRPEM:
(D. Alliot, Larpepem vous louchébem?) In butchery, a pear is a piece of steak. Figuratively, a stupid, naive customer.
"LOGATE (A LA)
(La Varenne)" Sheep leg à la logate. After carefully selecting it, beat it well, remove the skin and the flesh from the shank, cutting off the end. Lard it with medium-sized pieces of bacon, flour it, and coat it in a pan with bacon or lard. When it appears well browned, place it in a pot with a spoonful of well-strengthened broth, pepper, cloves, and a bouquet garni; you can also add capers, mushrooms, and tomatillos. Cover it with a lid made of flour, neither too soft nor too coarse, mixed with water, and cook it over a little charcoal for 5 hours. Once cooked, uncover it and garnish it with whatever you wish, such as onions, artichoke bottoms, sweetbreads, and a light sauce. Serve and place a cut lemon or pomegranate around it.
LOMITO:
(ref nec) Pork cut into cubes.
LONG BLACK:
(ref nec) A long black is a coffee obtained by pouring an espresso into a cup of hot water, which allows the foam to be removed.
LONG DRINK:
(ref nec) A long drink is an alcoholic cocktail served in a large glass with a volume of 10 to 25 cl. It is drunk with ice cubes and topped up with juice, soda, or sparkling water. Long drinks are often more refreshing and, proportionally, lower in alcohol than short drinks.
LONGANISSE
(ref nec) A spicy sausage from the traditional Pied-Noir charcuterie of Spanish origin. It is made of pork fat and lean meat, stuffed into a sheep casing approximately 22-24 mm in diameter. Its distinctive flavor comes from the blend of spices used in its preparation, which includes green anise. It also contains allspice, cinnamon, pepper, sweet paprika, garlic, salt, and nutmeg.
LOIN:
(TLFi) Half of the veal or venison loin, from the bottom of the shoulder to the tail.
The loin is the set of bone-in rib chops. Boneless, tied, and barded, it produces roasts. The dorsal part of the pig carcass. It is composed of the sirloin tip, the rib rack (5 first ribs), more than 3 second ribs, and the loin (5 ribs in the back), the spare ribs, the back, and the shoulder.
Consisting of half the back, it is a piece from the upper part of the neck. The beef loin consists of a portion of the sirloin, the tenderloin, and the strip loin (or rib-eye), cuts located on either side and in the center of the animal's back.
(The butcher-caterer's companion's book) The loin is composed of the shoulder, the back, the rack of ribs, the fillet and the tip.
Veal loin and fillet:
(ref nec) Located near the fillet, the veal loin is a very wide and flavorful cut. It is suitable for roasting or braising.
LONGEOLE:
(IPCF) Fresh pure pork sausage made from rind and meat, flavored with caraway or sometimes fennel.
LONGUET:
(boulangerienet) Small, thin, cylindrical and long rusk-shaped bread, baked in a gutter-shaped mold.
LONZU-I:
(ref nec) This is the name for a lean pork loin preserved by salting, drying, and smoking, made in Corsica. Lonzu is produced from the loins of Porcu Nustrale (a breed of pig originating in Corsica and raised exclusively in Corsica). There are four lonzi per animal. When cut, the pieces reveal a uniform fat and lean section. They are then immediately salted (approximately 35 grams per kilogram) and placed in a cool container for 4 to 5 days. The meat releases some liquid, and the pieces are washed with wine, dried, and peppered. The loin is then placed inside a pork casing, which is tied with string. These are then smoked and aged in a cellar.
MONKFISH:
(CNRTL) Freshwater fish, belonging to the Gadidae family (rem. sv gade ), with an elongated, almost cylindrical body, covered with small scales and coated with a viscous substance, with a chin equipped with a barbel, possessing two dorsal fins, and whose flesh and liver are highly valued.
MONKFISH:
(CNRTL) Anglerfish
LADLE:
(CNRTL) Kitchen and table utensil with a hemispherical spoon and long handle used especially for serving soup.
LOUCHIR:
(Reference stock) Said of a stock, a fumet, a jelly, a consommé which loses its clarity, which becomes cloudy.
LOUCHEBEM or LOUCHERBEM
(ref nec) Oral jargon of Parisian and Lyonnais butchers in the first half of the 19th century. Louchebem does not appear to have originated with Parisian butchers. The oldest attested words are found mixed with the slang of the Brest prison in the writings of a convict.
LOUFIAT:
(CNRTL) Popular: waiter or waitress.
Turkish Delight, or Rahat Loukoum
(CNRTL), is an oriental confection made from a colored and flavored sweet paste covered with a thin layer of powdered sugar.
This confection, of Ottoman origin, is integrated into the traditional cuisines of the Balkans, North Africa, and the Middle East—that is, throughout the countries linked to the Ottoman Empire. It is made from a starch and sugar-based paste, flavored, often with rosewater, dusted with powdered sugar, and sometimes garnished with dried fruits, usually almonds, hazelnuts, or pistachios.
LUNCH:
(TLFi) A snack consisting of cold dishes, pastries, and refreshments, served buffet-style at the end of a ceremony or during a reception.
A meal (often quick and light) eaten in the middle of the day, in Anglo-Saxon countries.
MOON (CHICKEN A LA):
(Massialot) Cooked chickens split and opened with slices of veal, ham, bacon, salt, pepper, herbs, spices, onions; with salpicon of sweetbreads, mushrooms; all in a casserole with juice, coulis bound with egg.
TO GLAZE
(The butcher-caterer's companion's book) To cover food with clarified butter, jelly, or glaze, using a brush to give it a shiny appearance (omelet, roast meat, grilled meats, tarts, etc.)
LUTAGE:
(TLFi) The act of luttering.
LUTER:
(TLFi) Coat with lute
(The butcher-caterer's companion's book) To hermetically seal a cooking container with a bead of paste with a marker.
LYOPHILIZATION:
(TLFi) A process of preserving a substance, a body, and in particular food and pharmaceutical products, consisting of rapid freezing and almost total dehydration of the product concerned, which is then kept under vacuum at room temperature and regains qualities of use by the addition of water.
LYRE:
(ref nec) The lyre is the ideal tool for making thin slices of cheese without breaking them. The serving paddle also allows you to retrieve the portion without wasting a crumb. This is the case for goat cheeses, Roquefort, Brillat-Savarin, etc.
LYRE A foie gras:
(ref nec) Special lyre for the dimensions of foie gras.
LYRE A GÉNOISE:
(ref nec) Utensil consisting of a lyre-shaped frame, equipped with a steel wire allowing the génoise to be cut into regular shapes.
