GÂCHE:
(Tlfi) pastry spatula
(boulangerie.net) Bread from western France.
(Bakery Research and Study Center) Not to be confused with the Vendée gâche. In its simplest form, the gâche is a flatbread made of bread dough, with a cross marked on top; thus, one can take a loaf and cut it into four to make four gâches.
GADE:
(CNRTL) Type of fish of which cod, hake, and monkfish are the main species.
GALANTINE:
(French Academy Dictionary) 13th century , galatine. Probably borrowed from the Dalmatian word galatina of Ragusa, "jelly in which fish or meat is served." A dish prepared with white meats, presented in the form of a roll, and served cold in its jelly.
(ref nec) Galantines are composed of lean pieces of pork, veal, rabbit, poultry, or game, and a stuffing made of meats, livers of the same animals, milk, eggs, spices, and herbs. Obviously, certain codes must be followed for the trade of galantines; Specifically, the animal species must be indicated, the proportion of lean meat in chunks must be at least 20 percent of the product's weight after removing the bacon and presentation jelly, and the weight of the bacon and coating jelly must be less than 20 percent of the total weight, except for products with a diameter of less than 5 centimeters, where it may be up to 25 percent. The weight of the bacon itself may not exceed 10 percent of the total weight. The designation "superior quality," "chef's choice," or "house" implies a proportion of lean meat in chunks of at least 35 percent. The designation "supreme" applies to a superior galantine containing goose or duck foie gras.
Galantine is a charcuterie made from boneless white meats (suckling pig, pork, veal, poultry, rabbit, game) and stuffing, served in its own jelly. The preparation consists of lean pieces of meat, a stuffing bound with eggs, spices, and various ingredients (truffles, scarlet tongue, foie gras, pistachios, morels, etc.), and cooked in a stock or aspic, most often molded in a round or rectangular terrine. It is generally served cold as an appetizer.
(Larousse G) A preparation based on lean pieces of game, rabbit, pork, veal, or poultry, with the addition of a stuffing containing eggs, spices, and various ingredients. The galantine is cooked in a stock, most often molded in a rectangular terrine. It can also be wrapped in a cloth, in which case it is called a ballotine.
GALETIERE: (galetière, galettoire, galetier, galetoire)
(TLFi) Pan without rim or with very low rim on which buckwheat pancakes are cooked.
GALETTE
(TLFi) Round and flat cake most often made of puff pastry and baked in the oven.
BRETON GALETTE:
(French Professional Charter for Biscuit and Cake Manufacturers) The Breton galette is a round, golden-colored biscuit. The ingredients of the Breton galette are flour, sweeteners, butter (at least 18%), and eggs. The only fat permitted in the Breton galette is butter.
Farmhouse Galette:
(Panckoucke Encyclopedia) Bread made with wheat and rye flour type 170. Filling: chopped onion and bacon lardons; for the dough: a mixture of nutmeg, fromage blanc, crème fraîche, and egg. The dough is flattened into a galette 30 cm in diameter. Sprinkled with chopped onion, the dough is spread over the galette, and the bacon lardons are added. The galette is left to rest and then baked.
GALETTE DE PLUMB
(TLFi) Galette made of shortcrust pastry with cream and eggs.
KING CAKE
(JM Jeudy) The king cake, also called the Parisian galette or simply gâteau des rois, is a puff pastry cake filled with frangipane, but it can also be made with apples or any other filling the pastry chef desires.
Hidden inside this dessert is a bean, which is one of the symbols of the winter solstice. The bean is the first vegetable to grow in spring. Whoever finds the bean becomes the king or queen. Nowadays, this bean is often made of porcelain. Bean collectors are called fabophiles.
Hiding a bean or a pit in a cake is a very old tradition that dates back to the time of the Roman Saturnalia. Tacitus tells us that, during the festivals dedicated to Saturn, "it was customary to draw lots for kingship." This kingship was as powerful as it was ephemeral. Throughout the feast, the king held all the power, but he was dethroned at dessert. (History at the Table – A. Castelot – Plon-Perrin – 1972 – pages 308 & 309).
For Christians, January 6th, Epiphany celebrates the visit of the Three Wise Men to the Infant Jesus. During this religious festival, it is traditional to share the King Cake.
During the French Revolution, the Feast of the Epiphany became the Feast of the Sans-Culottes (a revolutionary term for the French Revolutionary Guards).
In the Middle Ages, it was customary to cut the cake into as many slices as there were guests present, plus one extra slice reserved for the first poor person who came forward.
To "draw the kings," a custom required placing a child under the table. In antiquity, this child was called Phoebus or Apollo, but more recently, they are called the "sun child," and this child is the one who distributes the slices of cake. The person who receives the slice containing the bean becomes, for the duration of dessert, the queen or king and chooses their spouse as they see fit.
Every year since 1975, pastry chefs have presented a huge galette des rois (king cake) to the President of the Republic, but this galette does not contain a bean, in accordance with the principles of the Republic.
In western Quebec, a buckwheat crêpe is also called a galette.
Buckwheat Pancake:
( Inventory of France's Culinary Heritage. J. Froc, Hyman and H. Chiron, INRA Nantes) The buckwheat pancake is round. Its diameter is between 35 and 45 cm. Its thickness can reach 3 mm. Pancakes have made Brittany, and more specifically Upper Brittany, famous. The buckwheat pancake from Upper Brittany differs from the buckwheat crêpe from Lower Brittany, which is thinner. Traditionally, pancakes are filled with fried eggs cooked directly on the pancake griddle (bilic), bacon, grilled fresh sausage (galette robiquette), andouille sausage, or ham. Pancakes were also used as bread for dipping soup.
POTATO PANCAKE
GALICHON:
(Crepe Maker's Book) Last crepe which is a little smaller than the others, or not very regular, which is made with the rest of the batter.
GALICIAN:
(ref nec) A pastry made of sponge cake filled with pistachio cream, glazed green and decorated with pistachios. Likely created by Frascati (a gambling house where elegant Parisians went to enjoy cakes and dance).
GALIMAFRÉE:
(TLFi) Meat fricassee
GALIPETTES:
(ref nec) A variety of button mushrooms, rather large, white or brown. Galipettes, grilled or stuffed, are a popular specialty of Anjou (https://www.anjou-tourisme.com/fr/decouvrir-lanjou/pratiques/en-vins-et-recettes/recettes-de-lanjou/recette-les-galipettes).
GALLETIER:
(ref nec) Maker of galettes.
GALUSKA:
See Knepfle
GAMAY:
(CNRTL) Grape variety cultivated especially in Burgundy, Beaujolais and in the northeast.
GAMMA NANOLACTONE:
(ref nec) Compound with a coconut scent.
MEATBOWL:
(CNRTL) Large wooden or metal bowl in which several soldiers or sailors ate together.
GANACHE
(Larousse G) A filling made from melted chocolate and fresh cream used in pastry making, confectionery, and chocolate making.
(ref nec) A preparation obtained by cooling an oil-in-water emulsion of melted chocolate in cream.
Traditionally, ganache is made by pouring melted chocolate into boiling cream and mixing the two mixtures by stirring with a wooden spoon around the melted chocolate.
Alternatively, melted chocolate can be slowly whisked into heated cream.
A ganache made with dark chocolate is often referred to as a truffle filling.
(H. This, Gastronomic News) A ganache? Often, in these weekly terminology posts, we go back to Guillaume Tirel's Viandier, known as Taillevent, in 1319… but that's quite impossible for ganache, since it requires chocolate, which only arrived in France after the discovery of America, and, more precisely, in 1615, at the time of the marriage of Anne of Austria, daughter of the King of Spain, to King Louis XIII. We must therefore take a different approach and look more recently.
Let's start, for example, with the Guide Culinaire, which dates from 1910: nothing, no ganache! But the Guide Culinaire is a cookbook, while ganache falls under the purview of chocolatiers. Let's then look at Joseph Favre's Dictionnaire Universel de Cuisine Pratique from the same period, which includes terms from other culinary professions: nothing there either!
A pastry book such as Pierre Dumont's, from 1911? Nothing there either.
Let's move on to Emile Darenne and Emile Duval… and we finally find the following instruction:
“Ganache Cream. — Melt three bars (125 g) of chocolate in a warming oven or in the oven, place them in a terrine and add 30 g of unsalted butter, then one-eighth of a liter of whipping cream; let it cool slightly before using (if cream is unavailable, use boiled milk).” A surprising recipe for today's practitioners.
Pierre Lacam, in 1934, said roughly the same thing: “Melt 250 g of chocolate in a warming oven on a cake tin, place it in a terrine and work it with 50 g of unsalted butter, add 1/4 liter of warm, boiled milk. Store in a terrine to use as needed.” And it's still not the same as today.
But, in fact, where does ganache come from? It appears that in December 1862, the Siraudin company in Paris marketed candies it called "scented chestnut ganaches" or simply "ganaches": these were chestnuts flavored with maraschino liqueur, orange, rum, and kirsch. Created in reference to Victorien Sardou and his comedy of the year, "Les Ganaches," they were very successful. But the word "ganache" is old. It originally referred to the lateral and posterior part of a horse's lower jaw, or to an upholstered armchair, without any visible wood, very fashionable in the nineteenth century. Figuratively, it refers to an incompetent and narrow-minded person.
While some invent stories about the introduction of the word "ganache" into chocolate making, without providing any references, it's worth noting that they don't offer reliable sources. And preparation techniques vary. Some swear by adding boiled cream to the center of a mass of melted chocolate, using a concentric spatula motion from the cream towards the chocolate, but as we can see from Dumont and Lacam's recipes, these precautions are probably unnecessary… and it's much better to examine the underlying processes: melted chocolate forms a liquid fat matrix, in which sugar crystals and vegetable particles are dispersed. Milk or cream is added, along with fat dispersed in an aqueous phase. Therefore, depending on the circumstances, one can obtain a complete dispersion of the fat in the water, or vice versa, knowing that the fat will then solidify upon cooling. In short, one can obtain different ganaches… not to mention that it can be flavored or whipped.
GANDEUILLOT:
(IPCF) A charcuterie specialty from the Fougerolles region (Franche-Comté). A type of artisanal smoked andouille sausage in which all the components are cut, not minced. Pear-shaped with a scalloped surface,
it can be eaten hot or cold. The etymology of the word "gandeuillot" is obscure.
GANDINE:
(ref nec) Lamb or ewe lamb of very fine presentation and high quality. GLOVE:
(ref nec) (protective tool mesh glove) Essential tool for working safely without cutting yourself.
GARAM MASSALA:
(ref nec) Spice blend from northern India. It may consist of cumin, coriander, cardamom, ginger, oregano, black pepper, cloves, bay leaf, cinnamon; chili pepper is also found in it.
GARBURE:
(TLFi) Thick soup made up of vegetables, cabbage, slices of rye bread, ham and bacon or confit of goose.
CELLARING:
(Treatise on Oenology, M. Ribereau Gayon) This refers to the length of time a wine can be stored. Some wines, particularly grand crus, offer considerable aging potential.
PANTRY:
(French dictionary) A cool, well-ventilated room where food is stored. By extension, a small cabinet lined with wire mesh or a cupboard placed under a window where food can be kept.
(ref nec) A section of a kitchen brigade responsible for perishable goods. The pantry chef is also the head of this section, who prepares all the raw ingredients in collaboration with the other section chefs.
GARDE-NAPPE:
(TLFi) Wicker plate holder, to protect the tablecloth.
(TLFi) Large silver or tin plate, with very small rims, where the water pot, wine and bread were placed.
GARDEN-PARTY:
(TLFi) A social reception held in a large garden or park.
GARDIANE:
(ref nec) Gardianne (or gardiane) is a bull stew, a specialty of the Camargue region (southern France), traditionally cooked in a full-bodied red wine. The choice of wine is important because bull meat is firm, strong but not overly so, and very flavorful; a Costières de Nîmes or Côtes-du-Rhône from the Gard region would be excellent choices. Gardianne is a marinated stew (or daube) in red wine and vinegar, simmered for many hours with Provençal herbs (thyme, rosemary, etc.), onions, and carrots. It is usually served with Camargue rice. Camargue bulls are raised in semi-freedom, using an extensive farming method, which helps preserve the balance of the ecosystems. Perfectly adapted to their environment, they find abundant, natural, and frugal grazing in the marshes and salt meadows (halophytic grasslands). The same breeding methods are used for both beef bulls and racing bulls (the latter being the vast majority). The ranchers gather the bulls daily with the help of herdsmen.
GARGOTAILLE:
(CNRTL) Poor quality food.
GARGOTE:
(CNRTL) Small, cheap restaurant where unrefined and/or poor quality dishes are served.
GARGOTIERE:
(TLFi) The one who runs a cheap restaurant.
TO GARNISH:
(CNRTL) To accompany, to garnish (the main dish) with a garnish
FILLING:
(ref nec) A term used in charcuterie to designate a preparation that makes up pâtés or stuffed meats.
In pastry making, it refers to any product used to fill a base.
In cooking, garnishes are accompaniments to meats, poultry, fish, and eggs, primarily composed of vegetables, whose name often indicates their composition and sometimes their history.
AROMATIC GARNISH
(ref nec) Vegetables cut into small pieces (mirepoix) added to long cooking times to flavor, then removed when serving.
CLAMART GARNISH:
(Culinary Directory) A garnish consisting of small pea tarts in the French style on a base of macaire potatoes. The tartlet bases are sometimes replaced with artichoke bottoms.
FOREST GARNISH:
(M. Höfler) Garnish featuring morels as the main ingredient.
GARROT
(boulangerienet) Regional bread, Western France
GARUM:
(Pliny) Garum is a sauce made from the fermented entrails of oily fish (bonito, sardines, mackerel, anchovies, or oysters) in brine. It was used as a seasoning in Roman antiquity.
"Garum [Italian in the text] is a kind of highly prized liquor. It is prepared with fish intestines and other parts that would otherwise be discarded. These are macerated in salt, so that it is the result of the putrefaction of these ingredients. The best is made with mackerel..."
Garum was also prepared with anchovies, sea bass, catfish, tuna, and moray eels. The Romans believed that garum stimulated the appetite and aided digestion.
(ref nec) This sauce is similar to Mesopotamian siqqu, used in Middle Eastern countries. It is similar to the nước mắm sauce of today (Laos, Cambodia, China, Thailand, Vietnam).
GASTRIQUE:
(The butcher-caterer's companion's book) A mixture of sugar and vinegar, cooked until a light caramel color is obtained; the basis for making bigarade sauce or sweet/savory sauces (duck à l'orange)
GASTRONOMY:
(H. This) A system of knowledge relating to food. It is certainly not a culinary activity, and gastronomy is distinguished in particular from formal cuisine, also called "haute cuisine."
The term was introduced into French by the poet Joseph Berchoux in 1801, and popularized by the jurist Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin in 1825.
Gastronomy: Not to be confused with cooking, by H. This.
Gastronomy is not cooking: it's knowledge!
I just walked past an Asian restaurant where the sign read "Asian Gastronomy"... and that was a mistake. I just read a review labeled "gastronomic," when it was actually a restaurant review, and that's also incorrect. The word "gastronomy" is used indiscriminately, in the culinary world, and in the world at large. Let's explain why.
The word "gastronomy" is one of those recently coined words, since it was derived from the Greek by a poet, Joseph Berchoux, in 1801. The poet is not very well known, so it was the jurist Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin who truly coined the term, with a perfectly explicit and clear definition: "the reasoned knowledge of everything relating to human beings insofar as they nourish themselves" (Brillat-Savarin speaks of "man," not human beings, but since the better half of humanity is not male, it's best to adapt the definition slightly).
Thus, gastronomy is knowledge. Not cooking! In the Asian restaurant mentioned earlier, there is no question of knowledge, only of cooking. In restaurants, the customer doesn't come looking for knowledge, regardless of the number of Michelin stars, but for food.
So, what should we call the cuisine of Michelin-starred chefs if it's illegitimate to call it "gastronomic cuisine"? It's luxury cuisine, ceremonial cuisine, haute cuisine, artistic cuisine—whatever you want to call it—but not gastronomic cuisine. Conversely, we perfectly named the Institute of Advanced Studies in Gastronomy the advanced training program we created in 2004, and the term "molecular gastronomy" is perfectly apt for designating the natural science that explores the mechanisms of the phenomena that occur in cooking: it is indeed about knowledge.
MOLECULAR AND PHYSICAL GASTRONOMY:
(H. This) A natural science that explores the phenomena occurring during food preparation.
Often (and incorrectly) confused with "molecular gastronomy" (see that term).
Gastronorm (GN):
(ref nec) A standardized European format suitable for all kitchen equipment used for storing, cooking, transporting, and serving food (transport racks, cooking racks, ovens, tables, dishes, etc.). The basic format is GN, measuring 530 x 325 mm.
The gastronorm system is notably used for "gastronorm containers," allowing for well-organized work surfaces without wasted space. Measurements are always external: they include the rim of the container. All measurements are in millimeters. Today, the materials used are stainless steel and polypropylene. The various models of GN gastronorm containers are grouped together in this category for catering professionals. Gastronorm containers are designed according to standardized sizes and in various depths. Gastronorm containers are used to store, transport, present, and serve food products while respecting hygiene standards. GN sizes are suitable for equipping refrigerated tables, ovens, bain-maries, refrigerated structures, stainless steel racks, and refrigerated cabinets. Each type of container can accommodate a suitable gastronorm lid. Gastronorm or GN measurements conform to the European Standard EN 631-1 and are all derived from the basic GN size, which is GN 1/1: 530 x 325 mm.
CAKE:
(TLFi) Food made of dough.
(TLFi) Pastry: A sweet pastry preparation baked in the oven, generally in a mold, and intended to be eaten fresh after possibly being topped with cream, icing, etc.
A complex and voluminous pastry, composed of several layered elements. A
fairly substantial molded sweet dessert.
A savory culinary preparation resembling a cake in its composition, consistency, or shape.
BÉNICHON CAKE:
(Glossary of the dialects of French-speaking Switzerland) Cake in the composition of which include milk, sometimes cream, butter, flour, generally salt, sometimes sugar; its surface is covered with diamond-shaped designs on which are placed hazelnuts of butter which, when melting, form white squares.
BUTTER CAKE:
(Glossary of the dialects of French-speaking Switzerland) Large round sheet of bread dough, rolled out very thinly, the surface of which is salted and covered with knobs of butter.
WHITE CAKE:
(Glossary of dialects of French-speaking Switzerland) Pastry consisting of a base of leavened and sweetened dough, filled with a mixture of cream, sugar and egg
Spit Cake:
(Larouss G) A cake claimed by the people of Aveyron and Ariège, made from a thick, smooth batter flavored with rum or orange blossom, which is poured in small quantities, using a ladle, onto a special spit fitted with a long wooden cone wrapped in oiled paper, which rotates slowly in front of a hot fire. The cake forms in successive layers. It should be noted that Eastern European countries, notably Hungary, also claim this cake as their own.
DOG CAKE:
(Glossary of the dialects of French-speaking Switzerland) Military biscuit, pastry made of a base with raised edges, filled with various fillings and baked in the oven.
COMPIEGNE CAKE:
(Massialot)
ETAMPES CAKE, or FRAISÉ:
(N de Bonnefons) " You must soak a bushel of flour with cream without a single drop of water, which cream you will beat for quite a while by hand before mixing it into the flour, then you will add eight pounds of butter and a little cheese; you must keep the dough a little firm, work it well, test it; shape the cakes, glaze them and bake them. "
FISH FILLET CAKE:
(Massialot) Without pastry, with fish fillets and fish stuffing.
GÂTEAU GRELON:
(ref nec) Charcuterie specialty from Troyes, rectangular cake, made of puff pastry with lard to which melted fatty bacon lardons are mixed.
BACON CAKE:
(Massialot)
RAISED LAKE:
(Glossary of the dialects of French-speaking Switzerland) Large loaf made of flour, butter, eggs, milk, sugar, sometimes lemon juice, often in the shape of a crown
MILAN CAKE:
(Glossary of the dialects of French-speaking Switzerland) Shortbread biscuit.
SOFT CAKE:
(IPCF) The distinctive feature of this cake is its dough base, which contains 50% liquid (water and egg), keeping it very soft, much more so than savarin dough. In shape, it resembles a Kouglof, replicating the shape with twisted ribbed sections and slanted sides, but without a central hole. Weighing approximately 500 g, its diameter is about 15 cm and its height 13 cm. In the monograph that Dr. Guelliot dedicated in 1914 to popular pastries in Champagne, he describes this soft cake as follows: "This pastry is present at all celebrations. The dough resembles that of brioche, but contains little sugar and is richer."
NYLION CAKE, NYON CAKE, NILLON CAKE, OR NUT BREAD:
(Glossary of the dialects of French-speaking Switzerland) Tart made with walnut cake.
GÂTEAU A LA PAPETTE or GÂTEAU NOIR:
(Glossary of the dialects of French-speaking Switzerland) Tart whose base is covered with a thick layer of prune and raisin puree.
LEAD CAKE:
(Hervé This, Gastronomic News )
"Lead cakes: are they called that because they are supposedly indigestible? In his cookbook published in 1867, Jules Gouffé gives a recipe with 500 grams of flour, 10 grams of sugar, 10 grams of salt, 1 deciliter of cream, and two eggs. For a 'lead boat,' add 300 grams of butter; knead, let rest, then roll out to 4 centimeters, brush with egg wash, and bake. Admittedly, it's dense, but try it, and you'll see that by making small cookies, you can easily produce similar to Alsatian Bredala.
Ten years earlier, Louis Bailleux gave a recipe:
'Place a liter of fine sifted flour on the work surface; arrange it in a well, add fifteen grams of fine salt, thirty grams of powdered sugar, and three hundred and seventy-five grams of fine butter.' d'Isigny flour, one whole egg, plus one yolk; lightly combine everything with milk, bringing the flour towards the center with your fingers held slightly apart; keep this dough a little soft, don't overwork it, let it rest for an hour before using it; it must be kept chilled.
Nothing heavy either. So why the term "lead"? Without enough references to be completely happy to share my research, I find that, savory or sweet, plum pudding appeared in England in 1711; or more accurately, that we have traces of a "plum pudding," a plum cake, between 1530 and 1600. Its arrival in France dates from 1745, and the word "lead" comes from "plumb" (which refers to lead), which is a corruption of "plum," the plum. Hence our "lead cake"... which doesn't contain any plums!
POTATO CAKE:
RAMBOUILLET CAKE:
(Massialot) Veal medallions are laid out like a large plate; they are covered with strips of bacon, and stuffed. The stuffing is made by preparing a stew of sweetbreads, mushrooms, crayfish tails, and capers, then adding poultry, beef fat, egg yolks, chopped shallot, and orange juice. Another veal medallion is covered, tied with string, and baked. To serve, ham essence and lemon juice are added.
RICE CAKE:
(ref nec) A rice cake is a cold dessert made with rice pudding, sugar, and eggs, cooked in a bain-marie in a caramelized mold. It can be enriched with fruit (fresh or dried).
ROYAL CAKE:
(Massialot) Mix flour, egg yolks, salt, grated bacon, and butter to make a shortcrust pastry with three turns. Then arrange bacon sheets on paper and shape the cake.
Saint Martin's Cake or Cream Cake:
(Glossary of dialects of French-speaking Switzerland) Unsweetened pastry made with sour cream
SYELOID or SCAMBLE CAKE:
(Universal Household, 1733) "You make a dough with a pound of flour, half a pound of butter and three eggs (not forgetting the salt); then you moisten it with milk. You make a flat sheet, fold it in four, and repeat the operation four times. You then form a flat sheet on which you spread small pieces of Gruyère cheese and butter. Then you bake it."
WINE CAKE, COOKED WINE CAKE, RAISIN CAKE, RAISIN CAKE:
(Glossary of the dialects of French-speaking Switzerland) tart whose pastry base is covered with a kind of molasses made from pear and apple must cooked until thickened.
VULLY CAKE:
(Glossary of the dialects of French-speaking Switzerland) A sweet pastry with cream, sometimes flavored with cinnamon, glazed with egg and cream, and occasionally decorated with designs
GÂTE-SAUCE:
(Larousse g) Marmiton. The term originally referred to the "sauce guy", the kitchen employee, the rascal, in charge of preparing sauces.
GAUDES (TURKISH PORRIDGE)
(Invent Patr Cul) A brownish-ochre porridge with a consistency ranging from viscous to soft, depending on the added ingredients and cooking time, made from roasted cornmeal, water, and sometimes milk, cream, salt, and sugar. Gaudes are part of the traditional cooking methods of the Franche-Comté region. They are related to polenta.
WAFFLE:
(CNRTL) A type of thin, light pastry, cooked between two irons, the surface of which usually has small squares or raised designs.
(French Professional Charter of Biscuit and Cake Manufacturers) The waffle has a light texture, comes in various shapes (rectangular or round),
and is always honeycomb-like. Waffles are made of flour, sweeteners, fats, and eggs.
Flemish Fair Waffle:
(IPCF) These are soft waffles cooked in a large-well waffle iron. The batter should be thick but runny. Ingredients: 50 cl heavy cream, 1/2 tablespoon dark rum, 125 g sugar, 125 g flour. Dust with icing sugar as desired.
CHEESE WAFFLE:
(N de Bonnefons) " You will take small pieces of puff pastry (the method for which I will teach you later) in which you will enclose small slices of fine cheese. Having rubbed your waffle irons with fresh butter in parchment paper, you will place your small balls* on them at a suitable distance, so that, once cooked, they will join together. "
SUGAR WAFFLE:
(N de Bonnefons) " Take eight eggs, or more yolks if you remove some of the whites, a pound of sugar and a pound of melted butter, which you will mix well and beat together. Then you will add three quarters* of flour, adding it little by little until the batter is a little thicker than that of the biscuit. Test it, so that if it is not thin enough, you can add more sugar and butter. You will rub the waffle irons with a piece of fresh butter wrapped in paper: then, with a spoon, you will pour some of this batter into your irons, as you did with the Chanter bread, and turn them over and cook them, giving them a russet color ."
Waffle:
(CNRTL) Small, dry waffle, filled or unfilled.
(French Professional Charter for Biscuit and Cake Manufacturers) A wafer is a biscuit with a dry, crisp texture and comes in a wide variety of shapes (
filled wafers, ice cream cones, fans, etc.). The ingredients of a wafer are flour and sweeteners.
Waffle iron:
(TLFi) Hinged cast iron mold, composed of two honeycomb plates connected by a hinge, between which the waffle batter is trapped to cook.
GAULE:
(TLFi) Long pole used to knock fruit down out of reach.
(ref nec) Iron hook used to hang meat on the stall.
GAVAGE:
(TLFi) Action of force-feeding
GEINDRE/GENDRE/GINDRE:
(TLFI) Baker's apprentice.
(boulangerie.net) Third stage of the four-year apprenticeship required for a boy to become a baker. By extension, a baker's assistant who kneads the dough to make bread.
GEL:
(IUPAC) A system obtained by dispersing a liquid in a solid. Aspics, jams, yogurts, cheeses, animal muscle tissues, and plant tissues are gels.
GELATIN:
(H. This) A substance obtained by heat treatment of animal tissues, and, more specifically, a protein formed by the breakdown of collagenous tissue. Gelatin molecules form a network that traps aqueous solutions, thus producing jellies.
Note that there is no such thing as "vegetable gelatin," since gelatin is produced only by animals. The expression "vegetable gelatin," which is incorrect or erroneous, must absolutely be replaced by "gelling agent of plant origin."
Gelatin and Gelling Agents; No Vegetable Gelatin!, by H. This.
A chef friend told me about a problem he was having making jellies… but I realized, upon questioning him, that his use of words was leading him to a technical error: he was using the incorrect term "vegetable gelatin"… and, as a result, was using a gelling agent that wasn't gelatin as if it were gelatin; it's like trying to mince shallots while holding a knife by the blade.
Deep down, I'm being a bit nitpicky in criticizing my friend, because popularizing the expression "vegetable gelatin" is a kind of culmination of my work. Indeed, just as the use of gas became widespread, replacing coal, when it was no longer necessary to put up signs on houses saying "gas on every floor," molecular gastronomy has taken hold, since kitchens now have siphons, low-temperature cooking equipment, and those same gelling agents, with which I was accused of wanting to poison the world. These latter agents, in particular, are even sold in supermarkets; they are so popular that they are often confused with gelatin, and are mistakenly called by the latter's name, whose once-modern origins are also forgotten. Let's explain in more detail.
A bit of history
Until the 1970s, aspics and Bavarian creams were made from calves' feet. The feet had to be cooked for a long time in hot water, then filtered, clarified, and so on. It was a very lengthy process, which soon led to the creation of factories that began extracting and selling gelatin: in sheets or powder.
Gelatin? It's the gelling agent found in calves' feet and other animal tissues (skins, tendons, cartilage, etc.; from pigs, calves, chickens, etc.), so that all that was needed was to use sheets or powder to obtain, in a few seconds, the result that previously took hours to achieve.
Then, in the 1980s, while chef friends were still telling me that jellies made with gelatin had a taste (though I have proof that this wasn't true), I discovered that there were many other gelling agents, these ones of plant origin: carrageenan, alginates, agar-agar, guar gum, locust bean gum, and so on. Each has its own specific technical characteristics: you could make clear, transparent, opaque, brittle, elastic, or soft gels, depending on your preference.
In short, it seemed to me that a chef could find more options than there are in a triangle, and that's how I found myself one day suggesting to one of the main French chefs' associations that they use these products. The reception was friendly, and the answer was no. I was naive and disappointed, because, while I had nothing to sell and was focused on the advancement of the profession, it rejected my proposals, closing itself off to innovation and clinging to a tradition that is often forgotten to be merely a synthesis of past innovations.
Furthermore, my proposal to use these products was part of my desire to modernize culinary techniques, what I called "molecular cuisine." Yes, molecular cuisine aimed simply (OK, that's no small thing) to modernize culinary techniques, with the added assumption that we do best what we understand!
In the end, I succeeded perfectly, and molecular gastronomy developed wonderfully, as an application of this scientific discipline, a branch of physical chemistry, which is molecular gastronomy (I repeat that there is an essential difference between the two: science and technology are not the same, and one would have to be willfully blind not to understand the difference).
Let's talk about plant-based gelling agents.
Today, we talk about "vegetable gelatin," and I should be pleased about that, but the expression bothers me because it's incorrect, and this terminological error leads to technical problems.
Assuming that a good technician deserves to understand the tools they use, and that the names of these tools are just as important as their characteristics, I want to explain why we should talk about vegetable gelling agents, and not vegetable gelatin (vegetable gelatin doesn't exist!).
Gelatin isn't vegetable: it's a substance extracted from animal tissues, made of collagen proteins, modified to varying degrees by the cooking process that extracts them from the animal tissues.
Gelatin is a gelling agent, which means it allows aqueous solutions to gel, in order to obtain what we call gels. Gelatin is a protein of animal origin, and it has particular characteristics, well known to cooks, including its ability to melt at a temperature close to that of the mouth, which allows for the creation of melt-in-your-mouth gels.
Other gelling agents are not all proteins. For example, starch, made of compounds from the categories called amyloses and amylopectins, can be used to produce gels that are sometimes called pastes. And, as I mentioned, there are many other gelling agents that can be extracted from plants or algae. Often, these compounds are polysaccharides, from the same family as starch, and not proteins. Therefore, they are not gelatins. And that is why it is incorrect to refer to them as plant proteins.
Furthermore, I must point out that I recently visited some websites selling these misnamed products. I saw that one of the materials offered under this incorrect name is actually made of two compounds, not just one. I have no objection to this mixture, especially if it provides properties that neither compound alone would possess, but one must be cautious and vigilant with commerce, which is sometimes unfair, either through ignorance or intentionally: a mixture of compounds is not a gelling agent, but a mixture of gelling agents. In this case, I saw that the two compounds in the misnamed mixture were of plant origin, so there's no real reason to criticize the term itself, except perhaps to say that it's somewhat ambiguous, since the products are more accurately described as "derived from plants" than as "plant-based" themselves.
Is this over-analyzing? I don't think so, because it's primarily a matter of loyalty and honesty. Furthermore, the discussion we're having here is actually a way to help my friends choose the tools they'll use. It's crucial to understand that the instructions for using a plant-based gelling agent, made of one or more compounds, are completely different from those for gelatin, and it would be a mistake to use them in the same way. There's a specific method for using them—not difficult, but specific.
And that's how, with a variety of gelling agents, properly understood and used, cooking will be even more delicious!
JELLY:
(TLFi) Fruit juice cooked with sugar which, upon cooling, takes on the consistency of meat jelly.
This term also refers to a gelatin gel or a pectin and sugar gel, as in fruit-based preparations.
(economie.gouv.fr) Jelly is a sufficiently gelled mixture of sugars and the juice and/or aqueous extract of one or more types of fruit. The quantity of juice and/or aqueous extract used to make 1,000 grams of finished product must be at least that required for making jam. These quantities are calculated after deducting the weight of the water used to prepare the aqueous extracts.
However, in the case of extra jelly, the quantity of fruit juice and/or aqueous extract used to make 1,000 grams of finished product must be at least that required for making extra jam. These quantities are calculated after deducting the weight of the water used to prepare the aqueous extracts. The following fruits cannot be used in mixtures with other fruits to make extra jelly: apples, pears, clingstone plums, melons, watermelons, grapes, pumpkins, cucumbers, and tomatoes.
(TLFi) Lowering of the temperature below zero degrees Celsius, causing water to freeze.
(TLFi) Juice of an animal substance that has taken on a gelatinous consistency upon cooling.
COMMON BROWN JELLY:
(ref nec) As for a brown stock, with water, salt, shank and lower cuts of beef, veal bones broken into small pieces, round of beef shin colored in the oven, veal feet, bacon rinds, carrots, onions, celery, bouquet garni, cloves.
MILK JELLY:
(ref nec) Oily jelly before hardening; coating.
BLACK FROST:
(CNRTL) Black frosts are caused by the cooling of the atmosphere as vegetation awakens. A very severe winter frost leads to the death of the vine (at least -18°C). Fortunately, it occurs very rarely on a large scale (1956).
FISH JELLY IN WHITE:
(ref nec) Fish (gurnard, weever, whiting), sole bones and trimmings, sliced onions, parsley roots, mushroom peelings, fish stock: same preparation as fish stock.
FISH JELLY WITH RED WINE:
(ref nec) As before, but the liquid in this stock is half good red wine, half good fish stock.
GELLING AGENTS:
(ref nec) Food additives used to give food the consistency of jelly.
GELIN, or GENIN:
(ref nec) Young ox, whose conformation is comparable to that of a butcher's heifer.
GÉLINE:
(Dic Ac fr) (old) Hen and pullet.
Racan Hen:
The Racan hen is a rustic, somewhat unsociable breed of poultry, notable for being the smallest chicken on the market. Black with a chameleon-like sheen and very black legs, it resembles no other bird. It is a voracious eater, yet not a fast feeder, contrary to all standards. It consumes a lot of feed for little gain and takes at least six months to reach maturity. This small hen is prized in haute cuisine for its unique characteristics.
Known worldwide by professionals, it is served in the finest restaurants around the globe.
Hazel Grouse:
(French dictionary) A gallinaceous bird, resembling the partridge, with very delicate flesh.
The hazel grouse is a game bird, belonging to the grouse family (Trononidae). Also called "woodland hen," "hazel hen," or "wood rooster," the hazel grouse, now very rare in France, survives only in the Vosges, the Jura, and certain regions of the Alps and Pyrenees. This succulent game bird is cooked like partridge, without aging. When the hazel grouse feeds on fir buds, its flesh takes on a resinous taste, which is then mitigated by soaking the bird in milk.
Frostbite
(TLFi) Crack, fissure, split caused to trees, stones, soil, by the action of frost.
(ref nec) Under the action of frost, bursting causing cracks in the wood of the vine.
GENDARME:
(TLFi) A dry, flattened, and very hard sausage made in Switzerland and eastern France.
This name refers to sausages sold in pairs. The rectangular cross-section and often checkered surface are characteristic of this Alsatian specialty. It is a dry sausage, golden brown in color due to smoking, weighing 120 to 150 grams and measuring 14 to 18 centimeters in length. Its shape is parallelepiped, and its firm texture indicates thorough drying. It is generally composed of pork and beef (one-third beef, one-third lean meat, and one-third hard fat). The ingredients are limited to salt, nitrates, and spices. The casing is made of pork. The thorough smoking process imparts a distinctive flavor, sometimes due to a mixture of sawdust and wood chips, including resinous wood.
GENEROUS:
(Treatise on Oenology, M. Ribereau Gayon) This term means that the wine is rich in alcohol.
GENES:
(IPCF) Materials obtained from pressing grape bunches.
JUNIPER:
(TLFi) Common juniper. The fruit of the juniper tree used as a flavoring.
(TLFi) Brandy obtained by distilling fermented grain (cereal) mash containing juniper berries.
(IPCF) The production of brandies was limited to strictly medicinal use at the end of the Middle Ages. It became commercially produced in France and Europe during the 16th century, and it is possible that a juniper brandy already existed in Holland at that time. Production in French Flanders began only at a later date.
GENOISE:
(ref nec) Mold with fluted edges and fine ribs for baking Genoa cakes.
Genoise:
(P. Lacam, 1934) Genoise (common method). Beat 500g of sugar with 16 eggs over low heat, finishing beating off the heat; when the mixture is no longer hot and has a good consistency, mix in 500g of oats, 250g of melted butter (not too hot), and vanilla. Genoise is a base batter; it binds together three-quarters of our entremets, whether filled, meringue-topped, praline-filled, or chestnut puree-filled. Generally, it is used in a flat, even pan, such as a sponge cake, a "sunny cake," and many others. Without genoise, pastry-making would not be what it is today.
GENTIL:
(Civa) Revived in recent years, Gentil is now governed by an Interprofessional Charter that defines its production conditions. The Gentil designation is reserved for Alsace AOC wines that meet the standards of a superior quality blend. This blend must consist of at least 50% Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris, and/or Gewurztraminer, with the remainder composed of Sylvaner, Chasselas, and/or Pinot Blanc. Before blending, each grape variety must be vinified separately and must have obtained Alsace AOC approval. Gentil wines must indicate the vintage and can only be sold after a bottle tasting for approval.
GEOFFROY:
(H. This, inventor) An emulsion obtained by whisking oil in an aqueous phase to which surfactants have been added.
For example, a fine coffee Geoffroy is obtained by preparing a coffee oil through maceration of ground coffee in a neutral oil. By adding this oil drop by drop to strong coffee with added protein, an emulsion is obtained that has the consistency of mayonnaise but the taste of coffee.
See in particular [http://www.pierre-gagnaire.com/pierre_gagnaire/travaux_detail/120->http://www.pierre-gagnaire.com/pierre_gagnaire/travaux_detail/120]
GENTIAN:
(IPCF) Aperitif made from yellow gentian ( Gentiana lutea L) from the Aubrac mountains. A translucent, golden-yellow liqueur with a bitter taste and an alcohol content of 16% by volume. Composed of neutral alcohol, gentian root extract, sugar, and water.
GENTILLY:
(ref nec) Butter bread
GEOFFROY:
(H. This) Emulsion obtained by beating oil in an aqueous phase with added surfactants.
GERLE:
(inventory of culinary heritage of France) Large wooden bag (100 to 200 litres) resembling a barrel and used to transport milk from milking in Aubrac and Cantal.
GIZZARD:
(TLFi) The third, heavily muscled digestive pouch of poultry and granivorous birds, whose function is to grind food.
Poultry may be sold with or without the gizzard. Gizzards are often sold preserved or canned. Fresh gizzards cook more easily when sliced or chopped.
GIANDUJA:
(ref nec) Smooth and melting paste made from roasted and ground hazelnuts, icing sugar, couverture chocolate, cocoa butter.
Mixture based on ground roasted almonds and hazelnuts, couverture chocolate, and sugar.
GIBBS (molecular gastronomy, note-by-note cuisine):
(H. This, inventor) Chemically gelled emulsion. It can be obtained by emulsifying oil in egg white, then cooking in a microwave oven.
GIBELOTTE:
(TLF) Rabbit fricassee with white or red wine.
"Gibelotte" comes from the Old French word gibelet, meaning "bird dish." Gibelotte is a rabbit fricassee (see Fricassee) or stew, prepared with bacon, pearl onions, a bouquet garni, and moistened with stock and white wine. During cooking, mushrooms are added, and at the end, the rabbit liver is added to thicken the sauce.
Gibelotte, by H. This (Nouvelles Gastronomiques):
A gibelotte or a gibelote? Here, modern dictionaries are quite clear: in French from France, it should be two t's.
But what preparation does this term designate? Some rather poor modern dictionaries simply say "rabbit fricassee in white or red wine"... but the Larousse Gastronomique, which is not without its errors, also mentions "lamb cooked in gibelotte," an indication that we would do well to look into more closely. Especially since the same work (let's not forget that it was written by several hands, not necessarily well coordinated) states: "Rabbit stew, prepared with bacon, small onions, and a bouquet garni, and moistened with stock and wine. During cooking, mushrooms are added, and at the end, the crushed liver."
Let's consult the Culinary Guide, whose limitations I continue to discover: it speaks of "rabbit in gibelotte," indicating that the preparation of gibelotte is the same as that of hare stew, except that the liquid is made with half red wine and half white stock or consommé. "Homemade" gibelotte would differ in that the garnish would be augmented with potato wedges.
Better still, Joseph Favre's Universal Dictionary of Cuisine allows us to understand why it's better to say "en gibelotte" than "gibelotte": it indicates that gibelotte is a "preparation in the form of a stew, more specifically applied to the rabbit. One can, however, say: goose gibelotte, turkey gibelotte, which, in the original sense of the word, includes the offal.” And he gives the recipe for rabbit gibelotte:
“After skinning and gutting the rabbit, cut it into pieces of roughly equal size. Wash and dice about 150 grams of lean bacon and render it in a sauté pan with 100 grams of butter; remove the bacon to a plate and place the rabbit in the fat; once it has acquired a nice color, sprinkle it with a good spoonful of flour; let it brown, stirring occasionally. Separately, sauté about ten very small onions in a pan. Moisten the rabbit with half wine and half water, season it with pepper, salt, a clove of garlic, sprigs of thyme, a clove, and add the bacon, the small onions, and, five minutes before serving, a quarter of mushrooms with their juices, cooked according to the proper method; Cook the stew briskly to reduce the sauce. Plate and serve very hot.
So that's better, but Favre is a fairly recent term, whereas "gibelotte" sounds like an old French word. Let's continue with etymological dictionaries… and we find that, as early as 1617, "gibelote" was used to describe a fish preparation! And, in 1708, the gibelotte of the School of Culinary Officers referred to a chicken fricassee. The word supposedly comes from "gibelet," meaning "a dish prepared with small birds," in the 13th century , itself a diminutive of the word "gibier" (game).
Ultimately, should we resign ourselves to only using "gibelotte" for rabbit? No, absolutely not, since fish gibelotte still exists in Provence. Should we assume it's simply a "stew"? This latter preparation consists of "meat, fish, or vegetables cut into pieces, cooked slowly in a sauce": it is more general than the dish discussed here, which includes bacon, onions, mushrooms, and wine.
Let's not allow a poor dictionary to weaken the great art of French cuisine (and, when we have a question about a term, let's consult the Glossary of Culinary Professions: https://icmpg.hub.inrae.fr/travaux-en-francais/glossaire ).
GAME:
(Littré) Animals that are taken by hunting.
(TLFi) Any animal that is hunted, most often for its meat.
LEG OF ANIMAL:
(TFLi) Leg of an animal (and more particularly of lamb, mutton, deer) cut to be eaten.
LEG OF LAMB:
(ref nec) Whole, it includes the entire leg and hip up to the spine. Shortened, it includes only the leg. To be eaten roasted. Second-category meat.
BITUMEN LEG OF LAMB:
(Wikipedia) An unusual way to cook this cut of meat. Bitumen leg of lamb is wrapped in kraft paper and cooked in a bath of molten bitumen. It is a traditional dish in France, prepared for meals celebrating the completion of major construction work on building or public works sites.
LEG OF LAMB:
(ref nec) Whole, it includes the entire leg and hip up to the spine. Shortened, it includes only the leg. To be eaten roasted. Second-category meat.
SEVEN-HOUR LEG OF LAMB:
(H. This, Gastronomic News) The first written publication of this recipe is that of André Viard, in 1806: “You have a leg of lamb which you bone up to the middle of the shank; you season it with lardons, salt, coarse pepper, crushed thyme and bay leaves, and you pierce the inside of your leg of lamb; do not let your lardons protrude from the top. When it is well pierced, you reshape it; you tie it so that it is not noticeable that it has been boned; you then put strips of bacon in the bottom of your braising pan, a few slices of ham, the crushed bones, a few slices of lamb, four carrots, six onions, three bay leaves, a little thyme, three cloves, a bouquet of parsley and chives, and a ladleful of stock; You put all of this on top of your leg of lamb, which you cover with bacon, and then a buttered paper to cover it; you will cook your leg of lamb for seven hours if it is a large one, and you will cook it over a low heat; you will also put some on the lid of the braising pan; when it is time to serve, you will drain it, untie it, glaze it, and serve it with the reduced broth in which it was cooked.”
It had been claimed that Charles Durand (1766-1854), who was the cook for the bishops of Alès, Nîmes, and Montpellier, was the author of this recipe, but this is incorrect. Durand only published *Le Cuisinier Durand* in 1830. In it, he developed the concept of regional cuisine, championed Provençal cuisine and lesser-known local dishes, and is said to have published this recipe under the name "agneau à la brayaude" (a dish à la brayaude is a dish originating from, or cooked in, the Auvergne style. This expression derives from the language of one of the peoples of ancient Gaul, the Arverni, who wore wide, baggy trousers called "braies"). However, Viard is credited with the earlier use of the term.
JIGUE:
(TLFi) Thigh of certain animals and more particularly of the roe deer.
GIMBLETTE:
(SG Sanders and M. Derrien, The Great History of French Pastry and Confectionery) A ring-shaped biscuit originating from Albi, weighing approximately 50g and flavored with candied citron and lemon. For a time, they were called "gimelettos." Produced between Lent and Easter. Their shape allowed them to be hung on the branches of the Palm Sunday palms for blessing.
GIN:
(TLFi) Grain brandy (barley, oats, wheat), flavored with juniper berries, popular in Anglo-Saxon countries.
GINGER:
Ginger, a spice with aphrodisiac properties, (Zingiber officinale), family Zingiberaceae, native to India and China. It can be used fresh or ground.
Immersion blender:
(ref nec) A hand blender with a long, articulated arm that can reach the bottom of pots. Also called an immersion blender, hand blender, or immersion whisk, the immersion blender can be used to purée vegetables, emulsify, whip, and homogenize certain sauces.
GIROLL, sometimes GIROLE:
(TLFi) Edible mushroom of the genus Chanterelle. See "chanterelle".
LUMP END:
(ref nec) The rear section of the middle of the leg. It includes the rump, the sole, the round of rump, and the sinew. A long, tender muscle used for braising or roasting. The sole, or rump, offers fairly lean meat with short, lean fibers. This muscle is suitable for ground beef and steak tartare.
FROSTING:
(CNRTL) To give a powdery, glossy appearance to frost by sprinkling with a frost-like substance.
For example, to make a "frosted glass": using a slice of lemon, lightly coat the rim of a glass so that a few grains of sugar adhere in a collar shape to create a frosted appearance.
(Larousse G) To place ice cubes in an empty glass and swirl them to form an opaque mist on the sides before pouring a cocktail or brandy. The decoration obtained by moistening the rim of a cocktail glass with lemon juice or egg white, then dipping the glass upside down in granulated sugar, sometimes vanilla-flavored, salt (possibly colored), or cocoa powder, is called a "frost collar."
IRONING DEVICE:
(ref nec) Equipment used to easily rim glasses with salt or sugar for any recipe requiring it. (in English: {glass} {rimmer}).
GLAZING:
(TLFi) Operation which consists of giving (an object, a material) a smooth and shiny appearance, generally with the help of a special product.
WHITE GLAZE:
(ref nec) This is said of onions or turnips, for example: place the items to be glazed in a sauté pan. Cover with water. Add butter, a pinch of sugar, and a pinch of salt. Cover and cook over low heat until all the water has evaporated, without browning. The small onions will have a beautiful glossy appearance.
BROWN GLAZE:
(ref nec) This is used for onions or turnips, for example: place the items to be glazed in a sauté pan. Cover with water. Add butter, a pinch of sugar, and a pinch of salt. Cover and cook over low heat until all the water has evaporated and the onions have browned. The small onions will have a beautiful glossy appearance.
ICE:
(TLFi) 1. Frozen water, solidified by the cold.
(TLFi) 2. (cooking) Concentrated cooking base.
(TLFi) 3. (pastry) A shiny, smooth layer made from sugar and egg white used to cover certain cakes and confectionery.
(TLFi) 4. Frozen cream containing milk, sugar, fruit, and various flavorings; synonym of "ice cream".
WATER ICE CREAM
(ref nec) Water ice is used to glaze croissants, petit fours, and various shortbread cookies.
It is a semi-liquid preparation made from icing sugar (250 g of water per 1 kg of sugar, heated to 45/50°C) or fondant (500 g of fondant + 150 g of glucose + 200 g of 30°B syrup, heated to 35°C and brought to the desired consistency by adding water). Water ice can be flavored with all kinds of alcohols and liqueurs, most often with rum. It can also be colored.
ROYAL ICING:
(ref nec) A mixture of icing sugar, egg white, and a few drops of lemon juice, whisked with a spatula until pale. Royal icing is used for piping decorations or for icings. In this case, the addition of flour is necessary.
MEAT GLAZING:
(ref nec) Reduction of light brown veal stock, with skimming.
POULTRY ICE CREAM:
(ref nec) Reduction of white poultry stock.
GAME ICE CREAM:
(ref nec) Game stock reduction.
FISH ICE CREAM:
(ref nec) Reduction of fish stock.
DRY ICE:
(ref nec) This product, also called carbon dioxide snow or dry ice, is made of solidified carbon dioxide. It evaporates when the temperature drops below -78.5 °C.
Royal Icing
(ref nec) A preparation made with icing sugar and egg whites (5 tablespoons of sifted icing sugar for 1 egg white). Most often used to decorate pastries with a piping bag.
GLAZING:
(P. Lacam, New Memorial of Pastry) Said of a cake that is sugared in the oven with a sugar bowl or glazed with sugar moistened with liqueurs; also said of a cake glazed with fondant and glazed by freezing.
(ref nec) The operation of covering a cake, either with a reduction of apricot jam, or with a water or fondant glaze, or even by sprinkling various cakes with icing sugar during baking, and then returning them to the oven to give a shine due to the melting sugar.
(ref nec) The action of solidifying by freezing: glazing a cream, a cheese.
(ref nec) Covering a product with clarified jelly in charcuterie, with sugar in pastry making.
Glazing jams, pastry, marzipan, cherries, chestnuts, etc., covering them with a sugar crust that is smoothed like ice. Glazed chestnuts. To glaze meats: To cover them with a smooth, transparent meat jelly.
(ref nec) To color a dish by regularly basting roasted meat with its own juices.
ICE HOUSE:
(TLFi) A large hollow made of earth, usually lined with masonry, vaulted, and covered with earth or straw, in which ice or snow is kept to cool drinks, make ice cream, etc.
A container or cabinet holding artificial ice to maintain a temperature low enough to preserve food.
(ref nec) A type of round box with a lid pierced with holes, used to dust certain cakes with icing sugar.
An ice-making apparatus.
GLAN-RIND:
(ref nec) German cattle breed originating from the Glan valley in the Rhenish Palatinate.
CARBOHYDRATE:
(IUPAC) A class of organic compounds whose molecules contain a carbonyl group (aldehyde -COH or ketone -CO-) and at least two hydroxyl groups (-OH).
The International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry (IUPAC) defines carbohydrates as a class of organic compounds containing a carbonyl group (aldehyde or ketone) and at least two hydroxyl groups (-OH). This class includes substances derived from monosaccharides by reduction of the carbonyl group, by oxidation of at least one functional group at the end of the chain to a carboxylic acid, or by replacement of one or more hydroxyl groups with a hydrogen atom, an amino group, a thiol group, or any similar atom.
Carbohydrates were incorrectly called hydrates of carbon (or carbohydrates) because their chemical formula was considered to be of the type Cn(H2O)p.
In French, the term "saccharide" has been replaced by "glucide", but not in English, where "glucide" does not exist, but where "saccharide" is retained by the IUPAC.
GLUCOSE:
(H. This) We should be talking about D-glucose, because there are actually two glucose monosaccharides with the formula C6H12O6.
GLUCOSER ;
(Reference cooking method) Add an anti-crystallizing agent (glucose) to a syrup.
SODIUM GLUTAMATE:
(TLFi) Monosodium glutamate is a condiment used in East Asian cuisine. It was developed in 1905 by the Japanese scientist Ikeda.
GLUTEN:
(H. This, DOI: 10.58630/pubac.not.a435750 ; Feillet P. The Wheat Grain) Viscoelastic substance discovered by Jacopo Beccaria (or Beccari) in Bologna and Johannes Kesselmeyer in Strasbourg, which forms when wheat flour is kneaded with water; it is composed of various gliadin and glutenin proteins. More precisely, it was Beccari who made the discovery, but Kesselmeyer developed the leaching method to separate the gluten from the starch.
GLYCEROL
(IUPAC) Saccharide with three carbon atoms.
In wine, it gives it, depending on the case, its smoothness and mellowness.
GLYCERIDES:
A category of organic compounds that contain a glycerol residue (e.g., monoglycerides, diglycerides, triglycerides, with one, two, or three esterified fatty acid residues, respectively).
GNOCCHI:
(TLFi) Italian word introduced into French in 1851 to designate small masses of semolina or potato pulp mixed with flour and eggs, which are shaped and cooked in boiling water, like dumplings. Often, the preparations designated by this term are more accurately described as "échaudés" (see this term).
GNOCCHI A LA ROMAINE
(Culinary Guide) A type of semolina cake, cut out with a cookie cutter, topped with cheese and butter and baked.
GNOCCHI A LA PARISIENNE:
(ref nec) Cheese-filled choux pastry, poached in salted boiling water, shaped into small corks, covered with béchamel sauce and gratinéed. They are truly "échaudés".
GNON:
(Book of the Crepe Maker) Piece of rolled and tied cotton cloth, also called poupée, graissoux, griassoufé, grasette, frottoué. It is used to grease the crepe maker with the lardiguel.
GOBELET:
(Dic Ac fr) Small drinking vessel, taller than wide, without a handle and usually without a foot.
GOBET:
(M. Derrien, M. Sanders, Grand livre de la pâtisserie confiserie française) Pierre Gontier mentions in his book *Excercitationes hygiasticae* two kinds of scalded pastries, flagels and gobets.
- a piece that one swallows or a piece of bread that one swallows (a gobet of bread).
- butcher's slang: a piece of meat prepared for sale, left unsold at the end of the market. Leftover pieces of meat.
- a type of cherry with a short stem.
GODAILLE (FAIRE):
In Saintongeais, it means to make chabrot, that is, to mix wine with the rest of the soup.
GODARD
(Massialot) à la Godard: half-roasted meat, in a pot, with juices, mushrooms, artichokes, bound, with chicken marinade.
This prior use disqualifies Jules Gouffé's statement: " La godard is nothing other than a mixture of large garnishes, such as truffles, crests, quenelles, mushrooms, with a suitable sauce. "
GODIVEAU:
(1546, Rabelais) Originally "gaudebillaux." Composed of the root *god*, found in *godelureau* (from a family of words widespread in popular dialects, used to designate various domestic animals and at the root of which there is undoubtedly the animal call *god*) and the Poitevin *beille*, belly, which represents the Latin *botulus*, intestine.
Kidney fat, lean meat or fish flesh, egg yolks, salt, spices, finely pounded, velouté, poached.
(TLFi) Mince composed of meat, beef kidney fat and eggs, or fish, and used as a preparation for quenelles or as a filling for a hot pie. By metonymy, the dumplings themselves cooked in boiling water.
(Hervé This, Nouvelles gastronomiques): Godiveau: they are also sausages.
The godiveaux? Current books are unclear, because they waver between farce, quenelle, or preparations based on beef kidney fat. Let's take a closer look… starting with 1546, which links the word "gaudebillaux," composed of the root "god," found in "godelureau" and originating from a family of words common in popular dialects, used to designate various domestic animals, and the Poitevin word "beille," meaning belly, which designates the intestine. In other words, it's a type of andouillette sausage.
Then, around 1650, we find this recipe for "pâté de gaudiveau": an oval-shaped pastry is formed, filled with gaudiveaux, and mushrooms, poultry livers, cardoons, hard-boiled egg yolks, and sweetbreads are added; it's seasoned, another layer of pastry is placed on top, and when cooked, it's served with a sauce made of verjuice, egg yolk, and nutmeg. Interesting: it looks like a vol-au-vent… in the recipe for which quenelles are included.
Joseph Favre, this time, is confused. He indicates that “godiveau” was derived from “godebillaux,” which was supposedly an old hot pie made of minced veal formed into balls and offal; godebillaux were supposedly replaced by pies and vol-au-vents, and godiveaux then became stuffings made with veal from which quenelles were made. Writing towards the beginning of the 20th century, he gives a recipe for "godiveau à la parisienne", which recommends:
- chopping 1 kg of beef kidney fat
- adding 50 g of flour
- chopping 500 grams of veal, and pounding it in a mortar
- mixing veal and fat, then 4 whole eggs, spiced salt
- the next day, pounding again with 150 g of ice
- then poaching the quenelles.
He adds: “Here, as elsewhere, people have tried to create an endless array of recipes, each more bizarre than the last. They've even attempted to make a ‘poultry godiveau,’ a meaningless expression that only serves to confuse the cook. Indeed, why not call it poultry stuffing, since its only ingredient is chicken? We need to settle this once and for all, and it is these considerations that prevent me from following the various authors, ancient and modern, in their errors. Nevertheless, to be eclectic, I will still describe pike stuffing below under the improper name of ‘godiveau.
’ ‘Godiveau à la lyonnaise.’ Its true name would be ‘pike stew in beef fat.’” Ingredients:
- 300g boneless pike flesh
- 500g dried beef kidney fat
- 30g flour
- 30g seasoned salt
- 6 egg whites
- 0.7L unsweetened pastry cream.
Mince the beef fat with the flour; pound the pike flesh in a mortar and pestle, then add the beef fat and seasoning, pounding while gradually adding the cream; finish the stuffing by adding the six egg whites one after the other, continuing to pound and mix; test the stuffing and taste it; enhance it with seasoning if it is too bland and add another egg white if it is too soft. This mixture is made into quenelles using the usual method; it works very well for savory pies and vol-au-vents. It rises beautifully and shrinks less quickly than other types of stuffing. "
And he adds a recipe for whiting sausage, quite similar.
Finally, what to make of the definition given by the digitized Treasury of the French Language, which indicates that a 'godiveau' is a mince made of meat, beef kidney fat and eggs, or fish, and used as a preparation for quenelles or as a filling for a hot pie; by extension, it refers to the dumplings themselves cooked in boiling water, or to the quenelles?
Let's admit that these preparations are legitimately designated by the term 'godiveau', hence the extension of the term to hot pies, vol-au-vents containing quenelles… but that this term can very legitimately designate stuffings of all kinds, starting… because we too often call them 'chipolatas': we have a French word; let's use it."
GOGUE:
(TLFi) Gogues are a charcuterie specialty from Anjou made with offal, vegetables, bacon or pork rind, crème fraîche, and blood. They are black puddings that are poached in water, then sliced and pan-fried.
(CNRTL) A large sausage made with finely chopped herbs, blood, and diced pork.
OKRA:
(TLFi) Okra, scientifically known as Hibiscus esculentus , is a vegetable belonging to the Malvaceae family, which includes cotton and hibiscus.
Over the years, other spellings have been found in cookbooks, such as gombaut and combeaux (1803 - J. Rey's Guide du restaurateur).
Okra is called okra in Louisiana and the southern United States, lalo on Réunion Island and Mauritius, calou in French Guiana, and calalou in Haiti.
It is a tropical plant that can reach 2 meters in height and is cultivated for its pointed pods, somewhat resembling fingers. In fact, in English, this plant is called lady's fingers.
Originally from tropical Africa, it traveled with the slave trade to Brazil and the United States in the 17th century. It is worth noting that today okra is often used as a vegetable in India. Rich in vitamin C and antioxidants, it is also used to thicken soups or sauces.
OKRA PUREE:
(ref nec) Okra powder, also known as filé, is a powder made from the dried and pounded leaves of the sassafras plant, giving it a unique aroma with notes of lime and sage. This seasoning is always used at the end of cooking and off the heat because, when cooked, filé becomes tannic and astringent.
GOMICHON:
(IPCF) A fruit, most often an apple or pear, wrapped in a layer of baked pastry. Round or pear-shaped and about 8-10 cm high, the gomichon has a square base. The pastry most often used by professionals is puff pastry. Joseph Favre tells us in his "Universal Dictionary of Cuisine" that "rabote" refers in the Ardennes and Geneva to an old pastry, which consists of wrapping a pear or apple in pastry, which is none other than the Norman douillon. But this preparation, under the name "godichon de Rethel," is mentioned by Dr. Guelliot in his "Traditional and Popular Geography" (1931) in a menu at the end of the 19th century. He wonders about the connection between the two names. Could the "gaudichons" of Rethel, whose recipe is lost, be a type of "rabote"? They were renowned and the coat of arms of Rethel was "the eaters of gaudichons".
GRUMPAGE:
(ref nec) An old technique for coating cakes and petits fours, based on diluted gum arabic and applied with a brush as soon as they come out of the oven.
GUM
1. A type of sugar syrup used by café owners who added this gum to white wine, hence the name "gum-flavored white" (when lemonade is added to white wine, it becomes "limed white").
Charles Monselet (1825-1888) notes (Gastronomy - Table Tales, Charpentier-Librairie publisher - 1874) that waiters always asked customers ordering absinthe, "Pure or with gum?"
In the 1900s, gum syrup included gum arabic (see that word), honey, and orange blossom, ingredients absent from traditional sugar cane syrups. It was once common to add gum to herbal tea.
Today, bartenders still use it in cocktails or offer it to beer lovers who prefer a bitter taste, but, as a general rule, sugar syrup replaces gum arabic, the basic recipe of which consists of sugar, water, thickener: E414, and sometimes an aromatic note (orange blossom for Maison Monin, Giffard, or Combier).
2. (CNRTL) Viscous and transparent substance exuded by the bark of certain plants, which thickens in the air and is soluble in water. Cherry gum, apricot gum, mastic gum. Tragacanth gum, see tragacanth. Gum arabic, extracted mainly from the African acacia and used in confectionery, pharmaceuticals, and in the manufacture of glues.
Note that the food additive E414 replaces the traditional gum arabic, which comes mainly from the acacia.
TRAGANT GUM:
(CNRTL) Extract from a shrub, used in pastry and confectionery to bind an oil or give body to a dough.
GUM ARABIC:
(TLGi) Gum arabic is a solidified exudate of descending sap, produced naturally or following an incision, on the trunk and at the base of trees in the acacia family.
Gum arabic is composed of water and a highly branched acidic polysaccharide that occurs as mixtures of potassium, magnesium, and calcium salts. The constituent elements (monomers) of the free acid (arabic acid) are D-galactose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, and D-glucuronic acid.
BUBBLE GUM (or POP GUM)
(ref nec) Chewing gum whose elasticity and flexibility allow it to form large bubbles that pop loudly.
By extension, the term "bubble gum" also refers to a flavoring agent added to certain foods and pharmaceutical products. The scent of bubble gum is composed of a variable mixture of esters, essential oils, and flavoring agents.
CHEWING GUM
(CNRTL) Confectionery made of insoluble, flavored gum that is chewed without swallowing.
(TLFi) A sweet treat consisting of an elastic paste to which various flavorings are added.
Chewing gum presented in different forms (dragees, tablets, etc.) and prepared from a base of synthetic or natural latex, to which sweeteners and flavorings have been incorporated.
LOCUST GUM:
(TLFi) Locust bean gum (English acronym LBG, E410) is a vegetable gum rich in galactomannan extracted from the seeds of the carob tree ( Ceratonia siliqua ), a species of tree in the Fabaceae family found mainly in the Mediterranean basin.
Locust bean gum is a white to yellowish-white powder. It consists of a large colloidal polysaccharide molecule composed of galactose and mannose linked by glycosidic bonds, which can be chemically described as a galactomannan. Locust bean gum dissolves in both cold and hot water, forming a sol with a pH between 5.4 and 7.0 that can be transformed into a gel by adding a small amount of borax.
Use: Locust bean gum is used as a thickener in food processing. The powder has a mild, chocolate-like flavor and is used to sweeten food and as a chocolate substitute. It is also an ingredient in Lygomme, a brand of cheese substitute owned by Cargill.
GUAR GUM:
(ref nec) Guar gum is a galactomannan polysaccharide extracted from the seed of the guar bean, *Cyamopsis tetragonoloba*, an annual plant in the Fabaceae family.
Guar gum is composed primarily of galactomannan, a soluble and calorie-free plant fiber. Galactomannan is a linear polymer consisting of a chain of mannose monomers ((1,4)-beta-D-mannopyranose) to which a galactose unit is branched by a 1,6 bridge. The ratio between mannose and galactose is 2:1: thus, on average, one galactose unit is branched for every two mannose units on the chain.
Use: Guar gum is a food additive (E412) widely used in the food industry. It allows for the lightening of certain preparations by replacing the role of starch, sugars, or fats.
Guar gum is used as a thickener, stabilizer, and emulsifier in foods thanks to its uniform texture and gel-forming properties. It can be used in sauces, soups, ice creams and sorbets, baked goods, powders, and more.
It is also an ingredient in Lygomme, a cheese substitute.
TARA GUM:
(TLFi) Tara gum, also called Peruvian carob, is extracted from the seeds of a South American tree, *Caesalpinia spinosa* (family Fabaceae).
The seed endosperm is composed of high molecular weight polysaccharides, primarily galactomannan, a soluble and calorie-free plant fiber.
Galactomannan is a linear polymer composed of a chain of mannose monomers ((1,4)-beta-D-mannopyranose) to which a galactose unit is branched by a 1,6 bridge.
The ratio between mannose and galactose is 3:1, so on average, one galactose unit is branched for every three mannose units on the chain. By comparison, it is 4:1 for carob gum and 2:1 for guar gum.
Tara gum can contain resin acids and their esters, terpenes, as well as products resulting from the oxidation or polymerization of these terpenes.
It is a food additive (number E417), belonging to the family of food texturizers used to manipulate the consistency of foods.
It is used in synergy with other texturizers such as carrageenan, agar-agar, and xanthan gum.
It is also an ingredient in Lygomme, a cheese substitute.
XANTHAN GUM:
(TLFi) Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide obtained from the action of a bacterium, Xanthomonas campestris. It is cold-soluble and is used as a food additive under the code E415 for its thickening and gelling properties to modify the consistency of foods.
Xanthan is one of the exopolysaccharides excreted by various soil microorganisms (particularly bacteria). It plays an important role, at the molecular level, in soil formation and conservation, just like dextran, rhamsan, and succinoglycans.
Xanthan gum was discovered by Allene Rosalind Jeanes of the U.S. Department of Agriculture during research on biopolymers and their potential uses. It was marketed in the 1960s by the Kelco Company under the brand name Kelzan. Since then, it has been accepted as a safe food additive for consumption by the United States, Canada, and Europe.
In 1986, the JECFA established an unspecified acceptable daily intake (ADI) for xanthan gum, indicating that its use in food in the proportions required to achieve the desired effect does not pose a risk to human health.
Xanthan gum is a branched polysaccharide composed of four compounds: glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, and pyruvic acid. Xanthan gum is
a gum with strong thickening and suspending properties, allowing for the production of highly viscous solutions. These suspensions are minimally affected by temperature and withstand freezing and thawing very well. It exhibits weak synergy with guar gum.
Uses: Like gum arabic, xanthan gum is used as a binder and thickener in hot sauces, salad dressings, and creams.
Regulations: Xanthan gum is classified as a stabilizer and thickener by the Codex Alimentarius, which has defined its maximum level in a wide range of food products. In Europe, Directive 95/2/EC on food additives other than colorings and sweeteners authorizes the use of this gum (E415) for its thickening properties in foods in general, without a maximum concentration (quantum satis). However, its use is not permitted in powders or in the production of dehydrated foods that are rehydrated at the time of ingestion. It is authorized as a carrier and solvent (10 g/kg, alone or in mixtures) in infant foods (weaning foods 10 g/kg, gluten-free cereal-based foods 20 g/kg), as well as in preparations for infants for special medical purposes (maximum concentration 1.2 g/L).
GOMMER ;
(CNRTL) To glaze or polish petits fours.
GONDOLA:
(Larousse G) A decoration made from a white napkin, reinforced with a sheet of parchment paper or aluminum foil, folded using a precise technique to create a curved horn. In restaurants, gondolas are used to decorate the two ends of a long platter for presenting fish.
(ref nec) A specific fold given to napkins for presenting fish on the serving platter.
The napkin used to make the gondola is first stiffened with a sheet of aluminum foil. The napkin is folded diagonally in half, with the edges brought back to themselves, thus forming an arrow. The tip of this arrow is then rounded and pressed down with the palm of the hand or the bottom of a pan, pressing firmly to create the shape of the front of a gondola. In the past, the napkin was starched to maintain its rigidity. This presentation, now somewhat outdated, was used for presenting foie gras, poached meats, and asparagus.
GORAILLE:
(French Encyclopedia) In the Charentais dialect, this means all preparations made with pork. Etymology: constructed like cochonaille, but with "goret" (pig).
GORENFLOT:
(H. This, Nouvelles gastronomiques ) Name of a village in the Somme region, where this cake enjoys great renown.
Recipe: Take 100 grams of flour and 10 grams of yeast to make a starter; arrange the remaining ingredients in a well, add 15 grams of salt, 30 grams of caster sugar, 7 or 8 whole eggs, and work the dough to give it as much body as possible; then add the starter and 250 grams of butter, first well softened and then gradually mixed with the dough. Transfer to a terrine. Let it rise for one or two seconds, breaking up the dough by hand or with a spatula without removing it from the terrine.
See Hervé This, "The Mystery of Gorenflots," Nouvelles gastronomiques,
https://nouvellesgastronomiques.com/le-mystere-des-gorenflots/, May 23, 2024.
THROAT:
(TLFi) This is the fatty part that runs from the head to the shoulder. It is used for raw sausage, which needs to mature, but also for making Cotechino and stuffed pig's trotters, because it holds up well to cooking.
HAM GOUGE:
(TLFi) Gutter-shaped chisel with a sharp, curved tip.
GOUGÈRE
(TLFi) A round or ring-shaped cake made from choux pastry to which a large proportion of Gruyère cheese is added off the heat, and which is eaten either hot or cold.
Etymology and History: 1316 gouiere (J. MAILLART, Le Roman du comte d'Anjou, ed. M. Roques, 1145); 1430 gouyere (Compt. du soubzsecr. de S.-M.-des Ch., Bibl. de l'Éc. des ch., 1860, p. 226 in GDF.); 1752 gougère (Trév. Suppl.). Origin uncertain (FEW t. 21, p. 477b).
GOUJONNETTE:
(CNRTL) Small fillet of fish cut into the shape of a goujon.
Goulash:
(TLFi) Beef stew cooked and seasoned in the Hungarian style.
(ref nec) Traditional soup in Eastern Europe, composed of small pieces of beef, carrots, potatoes, celery stalks, onions, garlic, smoked bacon, bell peppers, chili peppers, csipetke (a type of pasta), and paprika. Sometimes kidney beans are added. Csipetke are small pasta made from a dough of flour, eggs, and water, which is grated directly over the soup at the end of cooking.
GOUMEAU, COMMEAU, KEUMAU:
(ref nec) A sweet, liquid paste made from cream, eggs, and sugar, spread on cakes and tarts. Similar to the Lorraine "migaine" (which is not sweet)
(ref nec). Goumeau galette: a typical Besançon galette for Epiphany; brioche dough topped with a goumeau.
GOURMAND
(TLFi) Viticulture: A useless branch that must be removed because it draws sap towards itself.
(TLFi) A person who loves good food and knows how to appreciate it; not to be confused with a glutton (who eats excessively) and with a gourmet (who loves wine, or a professional in the buying and selling of wine).
GOURMET:
(TLFi) A person who enjoys drinking. The word "gourmet" referred (and still refers) to sworn individuals who judge wines for merchants.
Not to be confused with "gourmand" (greedy).
Gourmet and gourmand
by H. This.
Gourmet? Gourmand? Some see no difference. Others see in the gourmet an added refinement: the gourmand is almost a glutton, and the gourmet is… gourmand. Still others see in the gourmet a kind of affected gourmand.
In short, when ignorance reigns, language loses its precision… and the restaurateur exposes himself to criticism from customers more “confident” than the waiters. Recently, I encountered waiters who announced emulsions and served me mousses: this was a deception that I pointed out. They spoke to me of flavor when it was about taste: I concluded that my interlocutors were not good professionals. I was even offered a “terrine en croûte,” as if the word “pâté” didn’t mean exactly that: how could one be ignorant?
But let's return to our gourmets and gourmands: those who work in the vineyards know gourmets well, since they were—and still are—responsible for measuring wine volumes for transactions. Every village or town in Alsace had its gourmet or gourmets. Gourmand: there's no question about it, because since the fourteenth century, the word has designated someone who loves good food… or someone who eats greedily. But to describe the overeating eater, there's the term goinfre (glutton) since 1622.
Finally, since the cacophony reigns, I propose we stick to a historically accurate and, above all, modernly coherent position: the gourmet loves wine; the gourmand loves to eat; and the goinfre eats too much, too fast. Which leads us to conclude with Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin: someone who becomes indigestion or drunk knows neither how to eat nor how to drink.
TASTE:
Synthetic sensation caused by putting food in the mouth and chewing it.
Taste, by H. This.
Taste: the complete sensation one experiences in the mouth. Let's forget the word "flavor."
Taste, aroma, flavor… Too often, the culinary world doesn't make a clear distinction… which is all the more excusable given that the scientific world, too, is sometimes quite confused, with specialists who don't agree on the words to designate sensory modalities.
Some avoid the debate by focusing on anatomical or biological structures, but this position has the drawback of allowing confused, imprecise terms to circulate. Conversely, the INRA center specializing in the exploration of taste, in Dijon, is very aptly named the "European Center for Taste Sciences."
During public sessions of the French Academy of Agriculture, we discussed this issue, starting from the simple observation that food we eat has a taste: a banana tastes (like a banana), orange juice tastes (like an orange), and so on. Whatever we do, whatever we say, consulting dictionaries from the past shows that the word "taste" refers to the complete sensation we experience when we put food in our mouths.
Therefore, the word "flavor," which was proposed in the 1950s, is completely unnecessary, since it is redundant (and copied from English). Taste is what we perceive: it is a complete, complex, and comprehensive sensation.
Complete sensation: within taste, we can have specific components. For example, when we drink wine, we can "perceive" (I avoid the word "smell" here, for reasons we will see later) banana, lilac, rose, saltiness, spiciness… Wine has its own taste, and this taste has several dimensions… not to mention that it can evolve during tasting (an initial taste, a finish…).
Complex sensation: What is sometimes overlooked is that taste perception involves several neural pathways, each with its own "receptors" and nerves that ascend to the brain, where the integration of perceptions takes place. For example, the nose has "olfactory receptors," which transmit information about odor molecules that have bound to these receptors (think of keys fitting into locks). For example, the tongue has "sapictive receptors," associated with the taste buds. For example, the mouth has sensors for pressure (associated with the teeth), temperature, etc. Taste is the result of all these elementary perceptions.
Synthetic sensation: When we eat food, the various sensory pathways of the mouth and nose are stimulated, and signals are sent to the brain: there, all the sensations are synthesized.And that is why we can finally "recognize" the taste of a banana, a roast chicken, a grilled fish.
CORKED BURN:
A wine is also said to be corked when it has a musty cork odor. It was once said that this taste was due to the presence of trichloroanisole, but many other compounds can actually cause "corked" gusts.
TERRINE OR LOG GUTTER:
GOY:
(Inventory of French butchery) In butchery in the region of Macon and its surroundings, a type of axe with a short handle whose iron is square.
GOYÈRE
(IPCF) Savory tart, a specialty claimed by Valenciennes. Made with a leavened dough base placed in a pie dish, filled with crushed Maroilles cheese with the same weight of white cheese, butter and eggs.
GRADIN:
(TLFi) Assembly made of several levels.
(M. Grossman) Multi-tiered, slightly conical utensil, allowing the presentation of crayfish in a "bush" in a pyramidal shape.
GRAHAM (molecular gastronomy):
(H. This, inventor) Oil gel. It is obtained by first producing a "gibbs" (see this word), then drying the latter in an oven.
Cf. Gharam Flour.
Caking:
(ref nec) Sugar: During cooking, sugar can form grains that can then clump together. This is called sugar crystallization. Spongeping helps prevent this.
Egg whites: Sometimes, when whipping egg whites, small solid white spots appear.
SEED:
(TLFi) Part of the plant which, after germination, ensures its reproduction.
(TLFi) Synonym for food (slang and popular language); to crack the seed, to "eat".
GRAINÉ:
(ref nec) Irregular appearance of a cake.
Grains of Paradise:
(TLFi) Also called greater cardamom or maniguette, this condiment comes from Guinea. Its fruits contain a very white kernel with a pungent and burning flavor; they are sometimes used to add body and strength to vinegars and brandies.
GRAINER
(TLFi) Said of a sugar syrup that crystallizes and becomes cloudy.
(TLFi) Said of over-beaten egg whites that leave a quantity of small grains.
GREASING:
(Chocolate Academy) Greasing sugar means adding a certain amount of glucose or cream of tartar before cooking it to prevent graininess.
It also means coating molds with a fat. Coat a mold or baking sheet with clarified butter (or special spray grease for baking sheets) using a brush to prevent food from sticking.
(P. Moreau, Bakery and Pastry, Flammarion) Delaying or preventing a syrup from crystallizing is achieved by adding, depending on the task: 10 to 20% glucose by weight of the sugar, cream of tartar at a rate of 2 to 3 g per kg of sugar, or tartaric or citric acid at a rate of 10 drops per kg of sugar, or invert sugar at a rate of 2 to 5% by weight.
GRAISSEUX:
(ref nec) Kitchen slang: cooks, for pastry chefs, in a professional kitchen.
GRAMMONT:
(ref nec) Preparation of poached chicken, from which the breasts have been removed and the bones of the breast removed, garnished with fillets of magpie, mushroom caps, rooster combs and kidneys, bound with béchamel sauce flavored with truffle essence, on which the fillets cut into strips have been arranged. Finally, the dish is coated with supreme sauce, sprinkled with Parmesan cheese and baked until golden brown.
(ref nec) Preparation of cold shellfish, generally reserved for lobsters and langoustines. These are first cooked in court-bouillon, then cooled; the tail meat is wrapped, decorated with truffle slices and glazed. The shell is filled with a mousse made from the meat of the claws mixed with coral, then with escalopes of meat alternating with poached and glazed oysters; The dish is decorated with hearts of lettuce and parsley.
Granary cob
(Panckoucke Encyclopedia) English bread. Made from malted flour, yeast, milk, water, salt, and cracked wheat. Sprinkle with wheat flakes before baking.
GRAND BOUILLON:
(Jules Gouffé) Grand bouillon, which it would have been just as reasonable to call petit bouillon if one had intended to classify it in relation to soup broth and especially consommé, is used for moistening and is, in all cases, far preferable to water. Grand bouillon is made with beef leg, veal shank, and all the trimmings and butcher's bones. The legs and shanks are deboned, the meat is tied tightly, and placed in the pot. Allow 3 liters of water for 1 kg of bones and meat, and 3 grams of salt per liter of water. Boil, skim, and garnish with leeks, carrots, and onions. Cook for 5 hours. Strain through a cloth into a terrine and reserve for moistening.
GRAND CRU
(ref nec) (chocolate) This is a quality designation synonymous with single-varietal, premium cocoa beans. Grand Cru cocoa is distinguished by its unique quality, the best origins in the world, careful processing, harvesting according to traditional methods, long conching time, and its elegant character.
(Civa) Grand Cru, by Edelwi: The concept of Grand Cru appeared in Alsace as early as the 9th century. Thus, the best terroirs were born from the know-how and experience of winegrowers, who, over time, revealed the most remarkable soils on often impressive slopes, benefiting from unique microclimates. Today, 51 terroirs, delimited according to strict geological and climatic criteria, constitute the mosaic of Alsace Grand Crus. See Grand Cru pages.
LARGE ZEBU:
(ref nec) The zebu (Bos taurus indicus) is a domesticated bovine descended from an Indian subspecies of the aurochs. The word zebu comes from the Tibetan word "zeba," meaning "hump." The zebu originated in the Indian subcontinent. A distinct branch of the aurochs existed in India during prehistory (Bos primigenius namadiccus). Is the zebu descended from this branch, or did it later diverge from the Bos primigenius taurus lineage? Current archaeological research does not provide a definitive answer. However, the history of the modern zebu, Bos taurus indicus, is better understood. Its domestication began 8,500 to 6,000 years ago in Mehrgarh. From there, it colonized the entire Indian peninsula. Subsequently, it arrived in Africa, where its acclimatization abilities adapted well to the progressive drying out of part of the continent.
GRANITÉ:
(TLFi) Granular sorbet (prob. adaptations of Italian granita, plural granite).
GRAS
(TLFi) That which is constitutively related to fat.
(TLFi) That which is of the very nature of fat.
(TLFi) That which contains a fairly large quantity of fat.
(Treatise on Oenology, M. Ribereau Gayon) A fat wine is smooth and creamy; it has roundness. A wine is said to be fat when the tears (not to be confused with legs) that run down the glass are thick.
COLLAR FAT
(The butcher-caterer's companion's book) A fairly firm piece of fat taken from the pork loin.
DOUBLE GRAS:
(TLFi) Membrane of one of the parts of the stomach of the cow which gives rise to various culinary preparations.
HARD FAT:
(The butcher-caterer's companion's book) Term used in charcuterie to designate the fatty part corresponding to the back fat.
THROAT FAT
(The Butcher-Caterer's Companion's Book) The most superficial fat contains substances that promote rancidity and can alter the taste of cured meats. It is therefore removed.
SOFT FAT:
(The butcher-caterer's companion's book) Fatty part coming from the trimming of the ham and the end of the belly.
GRATELON:
(ref nec) "Gratelon" (or grattelon) is a word of Provençal origin. Gratelons are the residue left over from rendering lard. They are mainly used to garnish fougasse.
Synonym of Greubons.
GRATIN:
(TLFi) The part of food that remains stuck in a browned crust to the bottom and sides of the cooking vessel.
A golden crust that forms on the surface of this dish; a dish prepared in this way.
The part of the porridge (or other food) that sticks and browns to the bottom or sides of the vessel in which it was cooked, and which is removed by scraping.
DAUPHINOISE GRATIN:
POTATO GRATIN:
GRATIN SARLADAIS:
(ref nec) Typical Périgord gratin with thin slices of potatoes, cooked in duck fat, flavored with parsley and garlic.
GRATINÉE:
(TLFi) A gratinée is an onion soup poured into a bowl, a small tureen, or an individual ovenproof porcelain casserole dish, garnished with dried bread and grated cheese, and baked in a very hot oven.
TO GRATINER:
(CNRTL) To stick to the bottom and sides of the cooking vessel.
(CNRTL) To brown, to caramelize during cooking; to become covered with a golden gratin.
(ref nec) To sprinkle a preparation with grated cheese, breadcrumbs, or breadcrumbs, then place it under the heat of a salamander grill to obtain a golden and glossy color.
GRATTE-CUL:
(TLFi) Fruit of the wild rose, a small, oblong, bright red berry containing a prickly hair (itching hair). Syn. didact. rosehip.
SCRATCH:
(ref nec) To remove from the feet, heads, and chitterlings any matter unfit for consumption.
SCRAPER:
(CNRTL) Cutting instrument, generally with a handle, used for scraping (engraving, scraping, etc.), of varied shape depending on the trade. Particularly in baking: Iron instrument used to rake the corners of the oven.
SCRAPER (FOR A BUTCHER BLOCK):
(ref nec) Tool used to scrape and clean the surface of the chopping block.
GRATTON:
(Dic Ac Fr) Name given, in some regions, to pieces of pork or poultry cooked in fat, heavily salted and spiced, and eaten cold.
GRAVANCE:
(Gascon cook, 1740) A type of Spanish pea, always yellow.
GRAVELLE:
(Practical Wine Guide, P. Ribereau-Gayon) Name given to the tartar deposit at the bottom of a bottle.
GRAVES:
(CNRTL) Dry soils made of gravel mixed with sand or clay, bordering the Landes forest between Lesparre and Langon, and planted with renowned vineyards. Soil composed of pebbles (most often cobbles) of fluvial origin. Typical terroir of the left bank of Bordeaux.
GREEK (A LA):
(TLFi) A la grecque refers to dishes originating from Greece or simply inspired by Mediterranean cuisine. Vegetables à la grecque are cooked in a flavored marinade with oil.
GRAFTING:
(Civa) Grafting, zwìega: Grafting is a method of multiplying vines that developed after the phylloxera epidemics from 1860 onwards. It is carried out by joining 2 different vines: the rootstock (from a phylloxera-resistant vine species) which will take root in the soil; another variety (from a Vitis vinifera species) which will form the aerial part of the plant by developing foliage and fruit.
GREMOLATA:
(Wikipedia) Italian parsley sauce, made from chopped parsley, garlic, olive oil, and orange or lemon zest. Gremolata is added to osso boco at the end of cooking.
POMEGRANATE:
(ref nec) Stew made with fricandeaux.
(TLFi) Fruit of the pomegranate tree, the shape and size of an apple, with a leathery skin, the interior of which is divided into compartments by membranous partitions containing red seeds surrounded by a transparent, edible pulp, with a slightly sour and refreshing flavor.
GRENADIN:
(H. This, Gastronomic News)
1. An escalope is a thin slice of meat;
2. A grenadin differs from an escalope in that it is studded with skewers, while an escalope is not.
3. A grenadin without bacon, pan-fried in butter, is a "noisette" (a small, round, round piece of meat).
Grenadins are made from veal, fish, poultry, game, and beef.
GREETNINE:
(Littré) The purest and most transparent gelatin, which is prepared with fish glue or ichthyocolla, or more often with bones treated with hydrochloric acid, or with the skins and cartilages of young animals.
Breadstick
(TLFi) Also called Turin breadstick. Small, elongated, dry breads originating from the Turin region. Breadsticks, or "grissins", or "grissini", may or may not be twisted.
GRIBICHE
(Favre) A type of remoulade made with cooked egg yolks, Dijon mustard, salt, pepper, and fine olive oil. When the sauce has thickened to the consistency of a remoulade, add vinegar, chopped tarragon and chervil, and capers. A little Worcestershire sauce is also added, and the sauce is served not too strong.
GRIGNE:
(TLFi) Slit in bread.
(boulangere.net) Slit made in a loaf of dough before baking and resulting from scoring a loaf of dough after baking in the shape of a ridge. The part that remains raised is called the ear.
By extension: the golden color of well-baked bread.
A long, split loaf weighing 4 pounds, made from the 18th century onwards.
GRIGNE DES LANDES
(boulangerienet) everyday bread, with a slash on each side of the loaf
GRIGNON:
(TLFi) Piece of crust of crisp bread, taken from the most cooked side.
GRILL:
(TLFi) Kitchen utensil with parallel and closely spaced metal rods (or sometimes made of a simple grooved cast iron plate) for roasting over high heat, for grilling meat, fish.
GRILL
(TLFi) The act of grilling.
(TLFi) Cooking on a grill; a method of preparing food by grilling. Food cooked in this way.
(TLFi) Grilled dish (meat, fish, etc.).
(ref nec) Grilled meat is also a cut of pork, taken from the shoulder and rib section. It is a rare cut, as there is only one (weighing 400 to 500 grams) per half-pig.
A way of cooking certain cuts of meat (beef, pork, mutton, goat, poultry, etc.) or fish.
"To grill": to put pieces that have already been roasted on the grill.
Grilling is done on sheet metal and cast iron stoves, with grills, ovens, warming ovens, and plate warmers.
GRILLAGE
(Ribereau) Caused before veraison by excessively intense sun. Grapes that have not yet reached their normal development dry out, turn blackish, and eventually fall off.
CHESTNUT ROASTERS:
(ref nec) Thick sheet metal pan with a perforated base. It is designed to be filled with chestnuts and placed over or next to embers.
TOASTER
(TLFi) An appliance used to toast slices of bread.
According to Colbert Innovation, the first electric toaster was invented by Alan Macmaster in Edinburgh, Scotland, in 1893 and marketed by the Crompton Company. Pacific Company claims to have invented the electric toaster with its Hot Point toaster in 1905. The first model to become popular and commercially successful was the General Electric toaster, patented by Frank Shailor in 1909 and called the D-2.
GRILL:
(CNRTL) To cook or roast on the grill.
GRILLOTIN:
(ref nec) Grillotin is a method of cooking small offal such as sweetbreads, brains, simply floured and pan-fried in oil with a little butter.
GRIMAUD (A LA), GRIMOD (A LA)
(Hervé This, A la grimaud ou à la grimod, Nouvelles gastronomiques, https://nouvellesgastronomiques.com/a-la-grimaud-ou-a-la-grimod/ , February 10, 2025)
(A. Viard) Rabbit Quenelle Terrine: "This involves making a slightly firm rabbit quenelle stuffing, with less butter; poach, drain, and stud the quenelles with truffle. Then put them in a saucepan with kidneys, rooster combs, small veal medallions, lamb sweetbreads, and truffles. Next, pour two tablespoons of velouté sauce into a saucepan, a similar tablespoon of game smoke, half a bottle of dry Madeira wine, a handful of mushrooms turned and sautéed in lemon juice and water; Reduce the sauce by half, then remove the mushrooms which are added with the garnish; finally, thicken with egg yolks."
Lille Grey:
(TLFi) Other names: old Lille, old of Lille, stinking macerated, stinking of Lille, grey Maroilles, old head. Dating from before the 19th century. Soft cheese with a washed rind. Lille Grey is made like Maroilles, but with a different ripening process. The cheese is heavily salted with coarse salt. It can be kept this way for several months. Gradual desalting in clear water with light rubbing every two days for 15 days. Ripening for 5 weeks.
MONTPELLIER GRISETTES:
(ref nec) Montpellier grisettes are among France's oldest candies. Their consumption dates back to the Middle Ages: they served as a form of small currency for pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela. They are shaped like tiny black balls dusted with white sugar. About the size of a pea, they are made with emblematic products of the Languedoc region: honey, including that from Narbonne, and licorice, a specialty of Montpellier. The current recipe dates from 1837 and consists of sugar, glucose syrup, licorice imported from Turkey, honey flavoring, anethole, starch, and coloring.
GRISSINI or GRISSIN:
See breadstick.
THRUSH:
(TLFi) The thrush is a small bird (family Turdidae, like the blackbird) with plumage that is brown, ranging from light to dark, speckled with blackish spots. There are about a dozen species in France. All are hunted in autumn and winter for their delicate flesh, the flavor of which depends on their diet. Three species are particularly well-known: the song thrush is the most refined, while the vineyard thrush (or grape thrush) typically feeds on grape scraps, giving it fragrant flesh with a slightly alcoholic juniper flavor. Thrush should be eaten fresh. The mistle thrush is larger; the redwing, smaller, is also highly prized.
GRIVETTE:
(ref nec) Rustic sheep breed with good meat conformation. Originating from the lower Dauphiné, present in the Dauphiné, the Massif Central and the Vosges.
GRONINGUE:
(ref nec) The Groningen is a Dutch cattle breed. It is also called Blaarkop (white head) in Dutch. It belongs to the North Sea coastal cattle breeds. It has existed since the Middle Ages in the north of the country around the provinces of Friesland and Groningen.
It is an old breed preserved as a curiosity, to safeguard genetic heritage, or simply for its beauty. Its herd book has existed since 1979. In 2002, there were 2,000 females and 10 males remaining, but the population has stabilized after 20 years of decline. (20,000 cows, of which 8,300 were registered in 1986).
LARGE PIECE OF BRISTLE:
(ref nec) Slow-cooked pieces of beef, corresponding to the anterior thoracic region (bony base: the middle and inner parts of the first five ribs, the costal cartilages, the first six semi-sternebrae and a fraction of the seventh muscular base)
Large loaf
(from Boulangerienet): bread sold by weight, unlike fancy bread sold individually.
GROS SOUPER:
(Provençal Christmas, edisud) In Provence, a traditional family meal eaten before midnight mass. The meal is light.
GOOSEBERRY:
(CNRTL) A small, edible berry, usually red or white, with a slightly acidic flavor, that grows in clusters and is the fruit of the gooseberry bush.
Blackcurrant: fruit of the blackcurrant.
Green gooseberry: fruit of the gooseberry bush.
GOOSEBERRY:
(CNRTL) Shrub of the Ribesiaceae family. Species of thorny shrub with large fruits that are initially pale green, becoming, depending on the variety, whitish and translucent or dark red when ripe.
GROUSE:
(CNRTL) Stocky, medium-sized bird with dark reddish-brown plumage, common in the heaths and high moors of Scotland and Ireland, and a prized game bird.
GROUX, or PEUX:
(ref nec) Buckwheat porridge.
OATMEAL:
(TLFi) Hulled and coarsely ground oat grains (or barley, wheat, or other cereal grains), without any trace of bran.
(TLFi) Fine wheat flour obtained by a specific milling process of the hardest and gluten-rich part.
Cacao nibs:
(CNRTL) Once the cacao beans are roasted to release their aromas, they are opened and separated from their shells in a process called winnowing. What remains of the bean, a kind of small, solid fragment, is the cacao nib (or cocoa beans) which will later be ground to make chocolate.
GRUIT:
() A mixture of wild plants common in the Middle Ages. It was used mainly as a preservative additive in gervoise and beer in the Netherlands, Belgium, and Germany.
LUMEAU:
(TLFi) Small mass of agglomerated powdery matter or coagulated liquid.
LUMBLE
(TLFi) Containing lumps.
GUAR:
See "guar gum"
GUÉRIDON:
(TLFi) A small table, generally round with a single central pedestal, elegantly made, most often supporting light objects, decorative or otherwise.
(ref nec) A small table used in restaurant dining rooms for carving, plating, and flambéing in front of the customer.
GUEULARD:
(De Tonnac) Cast iron piece placed between the firebox (below and in front of the cooking chamber) and the cooking chamber of the wood-fired oven for the bakery.
CULINARY GUIDE:
(Gallica and H. This) Title of a book initially signed by Auguste Escoffier, Phileas Gilbert, Emile Fetu, with various collaborators. The names of the co-authors have disappeared from subsequent editions. It should not be relied upon for dish descriptions, as it is a source of numerous confusions and errors (mayonnaise/rémoulade, mousse/mousselines, etc.).
GUIGNARD:
(CNRTL) Small migratory wading bird of the plover genus that nests in northern regions and is hunted for the exquisite flavor of its flesh.
GUIGNE:
(TLFi) Small cherry with a long stem, red or black in color, with firm and sweet flesh.
(Claude Royer, Inventory of the Culinary Heritage of France, Albin Michel, Paris) Fruit of the guignier tree, another name for the wild cherry tree.
GUIGNOLET:
(Inventory of the Culinary Heritage of France, Albin Michel, Paris) A sweet aperitif made with cherries, said to originate from Anjou, wine, and sugar.
The unpitted fruit is macerated in 96% ABV neutral alcohol for approximately fifty days before an infusion is drawn off, resulting in an alcohol content of 28% ABV. This juice is then filtered and sugar syrup is added to reach a maximum alcohol content of 15% ABV. It was at the Cherry Rocher distillery in 1705 that Barthélémy Rocher first had the idea of adding cherries to alcohol and sweetening the mixture. The product was initially called Cherry Brandy.
MARSHMALLOW:
(CNRTL) A confection presented in the form of sticks or cubes and composed of a soft paste made from marshmallow (or gum), sugar, egg whites, and orange blossom water.
In its modern form, marshmallow is made by beating egg whites and then, at the semi-firm foam stage, pouring in a hot mixture of sugar and gelatin while continuing to beat until the mixture is lukewarm. The process is identical to that used for Italian meringue. Commercial recipes add various additives to facilitate beating at low temperatures and to improve the rising and setting of the mixture, as well as its stability over time. The most commonly used additives are, for sweeteners, glucose syrup, fructose, or sucrose; stabilizers such as sorbitol, maltodextrin, and gum arabic; bulking agents such as starch; artificial flavorings; acidifiers such as citric acid; and food colorings. The final density is approximately 0.5 g/ml.
This confectionery was originally made with mucilage extracted from the marshmallow root.
GUILLOCHER
(TLFi) To decorate with engraved and interlaced lines. Said of pastry nozzles.
GUITAR:
(ref nec) In chocolate making, a guitar is used to cut chocolate. This tool consists of a base onto which a wire frame is attached, which is used to make the cut. This chocolatier's tool allows you to easily and quickly cut your chocolate slabs and pastes evenly.
GUMBO:
(ref nec) Gumbo is a stew originating from Louisiana. It consists of a highly seasoned broth (thyme, garlic, black pepper, paprika, chili pepper, mustard seeds, oregano, and cumin) in which vegetables (celery, bell peppers, onions, tomatoes, and okra) are cooked. Sausages (andouille), ham, chicken, and, towards the end of cooking, shellfish and crustaceans, and finally, shredded okra, are added. This dish is thickened with a brown roux and simmered slowly for 3 hours. It is served with rice.
GUYOT:
(Civa) Guyot, ùf eini Gert schnida: Guyot pruning, single or double arching, is the main pruning method used in Alsace. It allows for the harmonization of vine development. It consists of leaving one, or even two, canes of varying length on each vine, which are kept bent over the training wire and tied.
GWO KAKO (Antilles), GROS CACO:
(ref nec) Gwo kako stick. Chocolate molded into a sausage shape, handcrafted in the Antilles.
