BABA
(Gross, 1854) A cake made from Kugelhopf dough, soaked in an alcoholic syrup.
This cake is said to be associated with the King of Poland, Stanislas Leszczynski, whose daughter Marie Leszczynska married Louis XV. Following this marriage, King Stanislas became Duke of Lorraine. He is said to have brought this emblematic cake with him.
Denis Diderot is believed to have mentioned this dessert in one of his many letters to his friend Sophie Volland.
In his book, *Traditional Desserts of France* (Flammarion 1991, p. 224), Gaston Lenôtre defines baba, babka, or bobka as a Polish dessert served on holidays, particularly Christmas, New Year's, Easter, Pentecost, etc. Some authors translate baba, babka, or bobka as "old woman" or even "grandmother."
Originally, the baba was a dry rye brioche, soaked in Hungarian wine, flavored with saffron, and served with a type of pastry cream, currants, and fresh grapes.
Alexandre Dumas recounts that King Stanislas's entourage used to accompany their babas with a sweet Malaga sauce mixed with distilled water (L'Histoire à Table - A. Castelot-Plon-Perrin-1972-p.54). Moreover, it seems that this distilled water was actually tansy water: tansy being a symbol of immortality.
The baba is said to have been introduced to Paris in 1730 by the pastry chef Stohrer, originally from the Wissembourg region, who was the pastry chef to the King of Poland, then in exile in Alsace. It was Marie Leszczynska who brought it with her to the court of Versailles in 1725, when she married King Louis XV.
Contrary to popular belief, it wasn't until 1835 that Hungarian wine was replaced with rum by a descendant of Nicolas Stohrer.
In classic French pastry, the baba is associated with the savarin family of leavened cakes.
It's worth noting that the baba is a favorite pastry of Neapolitans, where the recipe was brought by the great court chefs who worked throughout crowned Europe. In Campania, it is soaked in rum or limoncello and enjoyed on its own or with vanilla ice cream.
BABELUTTE:
(ref nec) A babelutte (or babelute) is a type of long caramel flavored with honey or brown sugar, wrapped in paper, originating from the town of Furnes in the Westhoek (West Flanders), Belgium.
Origin of the name: The name is said to come from the Flemish words "to talk a lot (babbelen)" and "finished" (uit), meaning that the person eating it is no longer able to speak (either because they are enjoying it so much, or because they can no longer open their jaw). A competing, but similar, explanation attributes the origin of the name to "babelle" (which means "talkative" in the Picard dialect). The Babelutte from Lille is a popular treat in the Nord-Pas-de-Calais and Picardy regions of France.
BUTTERMILK:
(TLFi) White liquid remaining after churning cream in butter making. It is sometimes called "buttermilk".
(TLFi) Instrument used to beat cream to make butter.
BABKA:
(ref nec) Babka or bobka (Polish for "old woman" or "grandmother") is a cake originating from Eastern Europe.
It resembles the Alsatian Kugelhopf. The recipe is still popular in Poland and among the Polish diaspora, particularly in New York and Montreal. It can also be found in the territories of present-day Russia, but it's worth noting that the Kingdom of Poland once extended as far as Kyiv and, after World War II, lost a large part of its eastern territories.
Gastronorm container:
(ref nec) Gastronorm, a stainless steel container in a standardized European format, used for storing, transporting, processing, and serving food. The basic format is GN 1/1, measuring 530 x 325 mm.
ICE BOX:
(sommelier) Insulated stainless steel box at the direct disposal of the bartender, specifically intended for the clean and cool storage of ice cubes; can be compartmentalized to separate different types of ice cubes (solid ice cubes, crushed ice.) (in English: ice-well).
BACO NOIR:
(ref nec) The Baco Noir grape variety is a red, fairly acidic, Franco-American hybrid grape variety; in France, it was uprooted at the end of the 1960s; 240 ha remain in the State of New York, where it is used in blends.
BACCHUS:
(ref nec) Bacchus is a white grape variety grown in Germany. According to oenologist Alexis Lichine, it is an American hybrid with small black berries. According to Jim Ainsworth, it is an aromatic German grape of the Muscat type. In reality, it is a cross between Sylvaner, Riesling, and Müller-Thurgau.
BACON:
(Eric Glatre's Meat Dictionary. BPI edition) Bacon is the English term for salted (and sometimes smoked) pork belly, which is very often eaten in England with eggs for breakfast.
The English word bacon comes from the Old French word bacon, which meant "pork meat, a piece of salted pork belly," at the beginning of the 12th century.
Red grouper:
(ref nec) The red grouper is a marine fish, related to the grouper (family Serranidae), measuring 50 to 80 cm, with a reddish-brown body with yellow spots and a pointed snout. The red grouper is found along the Atlantic coast (from Portugal to Angola) and in the Mediterranean. Its flesh is firm. Another species, the red grouper, has similar characteristics.
STAR ANISE:
(Reference missing) Star anise is the fruit of the star anise tree, a shrub native to southern China and Tonkin. Its aromatic fruits have pharmacological properties. It develops an aniseed aroma with a slightly woody note and hints of licorice. Slightly peppery, its flavor is warm and more intense than that of green anise. This nuance can be found in some Chardonnays and rosés from the Languedoc region.
BADIGEONNER:
(Culinary Dictionary) To coat raw or cooked food with a liquid (oil, melted butter, egg wash, etc.) using a brush.
BAECKANOFA or BAECKENOFE:
(Larousse Gastronomique) Alsatian stew of various meats (mutton, pork, beef) in white wine, with potatoes, onions and various vegetables. Sealed and cooked in the oven.
BAGATELLE
(ref nec) Bagatelles are desserts of English origin. The word bagatelle is the French translation of trifle or whim wham, used in Scotland. It means "made with nothing, very little," or a trinket worth very little. Indeed, this dessert is made with leftover cake or biscuits to which custard or blancmange and jam are added. The dessert was a midweek treat for the English, but some cooks refined the recipe to make it something spectacular, using fruit jellies, pastry cream, whipped cream, and fresh fruit instead of jam. This type of dessert is also made in individual cups, in England and Quebec. For example, in wide cups, one might put a mixture of biscuits, custard (from the English word " custard " ) or whipped cream, and redcurrant jam.
BAGEL:
(ref nec) Small round bread with a hole in the middle, of Jewish origin, very popular in the United States, filled with poppy seeds, cumin, sesame or onion.
BAGEL:
(bakery website) a small round bread roll with a hole in the center, invented in 1683 by a baker to thank the King of Poland for driving the Turks out of Austria. Traditional bread of the Jewish community.
BAGNES
(Larousse gastronomique) Swiss cheese (Bagnes valley, Valais) made from cow's milk, with a pressed cooked paste and brushed rind.
BAGRATION:
(Carême, Art of French Cuisine , vol. I, p. 256) Name given by Marie Antoine Carême to a fish fillet soup. It is derived from a Russian-style soup, and is made from poultry, veal, carrots, turnips, leeks, celery, with the addition of an essence made from fish scraps and aromatic garnish, and served with fish escalopes and quenelles of fish and crayfish.
RING:
(ISO for glass containers) Upper part of the neck of a container designed to receive the closure.
DIP RING (or DIP FORK, or DIP SPINDLE):
(ref nec) A utensil consisting of a handle and a stem with a round, oval, or spiral ring at the end, or a fork-like tool with 2, 3, or 4 prongs. This tool is used to pick up and dip truffles, fruits, and candies into liquid couverture chocolate, for coating and finishing molded candies and chocolates.
BAYONET RING:
(ISO for containers) Ring with locking notches.
CORK STOPPER RING:
(ISO for containers) Flat ring at the end with a lower counter-ring.
LEVER CLOSURE RING:
(ISO for containers) Ring designed to receive a closure which must be removed using a metal accessory, for example a coin.
CHAMPAGNE RING:
(ISO for containers) Type of smooth-opening ring used for fermenting wine bottles; also used for other carbonated products.
CROWN RING:
(ISO for containers) Ring designed to receive a crown cap.
SCREW-ON CROWN RING:
(ISO for containers) Ring designed to receive a screw-on crown type closure.
MIXED CROWN RING:
(ISO for containers) Ring designed to receive a crown cap that can be removed by uncapping or unscrewing.
Notched ring:
(ISO standard for containers) A ring with raised ridges that keep the cap tightly closed. The vacuum is created by a heat treatment prior to sealing the container.
OMNIA RING:
(ISO) Ring for jars designed to receive a wide crimp cap.
PERFORATED RING:
(ISO) Ring designed to receive a lever cap, that is to say a closure in which the cap is attached to the ring by articulated steel wires.
RING WITHOUT COUNTER-RING:
(ISO for containers) Ring without a counter-ring.
SET RING:
(ISO) Ring designed to receive a set closure, for example of the "omnia" type ring.
SCREW PRESS RING:
(ISO) Ring that can receive a pressure-resistant closure.
TWO-THREAD SCREW RING:
(ISO for containers) Ring having two thread entries to allow quick removal of the cap.
STANDARD SCREW RING:
(ISO for containers) Ring with standardized external thread.
BAGUETTE:
(boulangerie.net) Long, thin bread (approximately 300 grams)
(M. Barboff, The Crispy and Prestigious History of the Baguette) A variety of bread, recognizable by its elongated shape. 5/6 cm wide, 3/4 cm high, and 65 cm long.
BAGUETTE DE LAON:
(Larousse gastronomique) Picard cheese made from cow's milk, with a soft paste and washed rind, which comes in the form of a loaf.
BAGUETTE MONGE:
(The bread of man, B. Dupaigne, MNHN/La Martinière) This baguette takes its name from Éric Kayser's first shop at 8 rue Monge in Paris. First made in September 1996, it was developed by Eric Kayser and two other fellow bakers: the idea was to use natural sourdough, a lightly kneaded type 65 flour, which gives it its cream color, and a long fermentation.
BAHUT:
(French Academy Dictionary) Formerly, a chest covered in studded leather with a domed lid, used as a travel trunk. A low, rustic sideboard.
CASSAVA BERRY:
(ref nec) Cassava berries are a bitter spice originating from Vietnam or Sri Lanka. They are used whole or ground in various preparations, for example: marinades, charcuterie, beef, game, duck, or as a pepper.
PINK PEPPERCORNS:
(ref nec) "Chinese Coffee," Bourbon pink peppercorns, false pink peppercorns...: these berries actually have nothing to do with pepper. They are the fruit of the *Schinus terebenthifolius*, a tree that grows in the mountains of South America, as well as on Réunion and Mauritius (the main producers of pink peppercorns). Pink peppercorns are one of the essential ingredients in the Five Peppercorn Blend.
BAIN-MARIE:
(CNRTL) A boiling liquid (usually water) used to heat the contents of a submerged container evenly. It should be noted that this traditional method, which maintains a temperature of 100°C (at sea level), has been largely superseded by "low-temperature cooking," where modern temperature control systems allow for fixed temperatures below 100°C.
For the origin of the term, the TLFI (Trésor de la langue française informatisé) indicates:
"ETYMOL. ET HIST. 1516 'a method of heating a body by indirect contact with the heat source by immersing it in a bath of boiling water' ([J. PERRÉAL, Complainte de] Nat[ure] à l'alchim., 337 [text dated to the 14th century in DAUZAT68] in GDF. Compl.: I cook then, dissolved and sublime, Without hammer, tongs or file, Without charcoal, manure, bain-marie, And without a bellows).
Composed of bain* and Marie, the name of an alchemist also called Marie-la-Juive who is said to have invented or improved this technique (MASSON, p. 275); Olympiodorus, a Greek philosopher and alchemist of the Alexandrian period, alludes to this figure in connection with this process (Commentaire ms. d'Olympiodorus, philosophe Alexandrian, on Zosimus in DU CANGE, Glossarium ad scriptores mediae et infimae graecitatis, Graz, Austria, 1958, sv, p. 647); balneum Mariae “bath of Mary” is attested in Medieval Latin from the beginning of the 14th century (ARNAUD DE VILLENEUVE, Rosar., MS. lib. 2, cap. 7 in DU CANGE); the hypothesis (MÉN. 1750; DAUZAT68; BL.-W.5) that Mary the Jewess represents the sister of Moses and Aaron, the prophetess Miriam (Exodus 15:20), is based on another tradition according to which Miriam (the Hebrew name for Mary) was the author of treatises on alchemy; it has also been suggested that it could be the symbolic integration of the Virgin Mary into esoteric mysticism alchemists, succeeding the Egyptian tradition of the myth of Isis (see also Gde Encyclop. t. 2, sv alchemy) .
(TLFi) Utensil composed of a double container, the smaller of which holds the food or substances to be heated and the larger one water.
(TLFi) Hot water reservoir of old kitchen stoves.
(P. Lacam, Nouveau Mémorial de la pâtisserie) To put a cream or sauce, along with its saucepan, into boiling water and stir or cook it.
KAISER:
(Ac. Gastr. 1962, MONT. 1967, LASNET 1970) Small meringues joined together with cream, especially Chantilly cream.
BAKER'S KISS:
(JP de Tonnac, Universal Dictionary of Bread, 92) Refers to the place where two loaves of bread touch during baking.
BAISURE:
(JP de Tonnac, Universal Dictionary of Bread , 1992) Pale or less cooked part of a loaf of bread that was in contact with the neighboring loaf during baking in the oven.
JOUB:
(Eric Glatre's Meat Dictionary. Dist. BPI) The jowl is an offal cut that represents the lower lateral fleshy part on each side of the head of certain animals, from the eye to the jaw and down to the shoulder. In cooking and charcuterie, beef jowl is treated the same as veal jowl. Pork jowl, which is quite fatty, is generally treated as belly.
BAKHLAVA
(ref nec) A traditional Middle Eastern dessert. Baklava is made from thin sheets of dough, each individually buttered or oiled, layered in a dish or rolled up. A mixture of ground and crushed dried fruit is placed between the sheets, which are then soaked in a syrup made with honey, orange blossom water, or rose water. Ground cloves are sometimes added.
BALLE or BALE:
(TLFi) Hull that envelops the grains of grasses (wheat, oats, corn, etc.)
BALLON:
(boulangerienet) small round bread (Swiss)
(Ribereau-Gayon) A ballon is a glass that has the shape of a balloon, if it does not have a foot we will say that it is a goblet.
BALLOTINE:
(H. This, Nouvelles gastronomiques) The definitions given by the Dictionary of the French Academy, or by the TLFi, are inconsistent. Research in old cookbooks shows that "ballotines" (modern spelling) were formerly called "balotines": these were preparations shaped into small "balls." The contents could be a slightly spherical piece of meat, or a stack of strips (meat, mushrooms, foie gras), or even a stuffing. The wrapping was either paper (up to six sheets), caul fat, or breadcrumbs.
(Missing reference) The term ballotines refers to galantines (see this word) of often small size, cylindrical or truncated conical shape, sold whole. Their composition is that of a superior galantine.
BALTHAZAR:
(Ribereau-Gayon) The balthazar is a 12 L bottle of wine, or 16 bottles.
BAN DES VENDANGES:
( Practical Wine Guide , P. Ribereau-Gayon) Official start date of the grape harvest in an appellation.
BANAL:
(bakery) bread made from finely sifted flour and baked in a communal oven; it was distinguished from other breads because the lords stamped their seal on it.
Bread baked in communal ovens from coarse flours, each loaf was marked with knife cuts to distinguish it.
BANANA SPLIT
(ref nec) The banana split is an ice cream sundae, created in the United States, whose main element is a banana split lengthwise and topped with three scoops of ice cream.
BAND:
(Littré) A long, thin piece of dough used to line certain pastries.
This refers to the piece of dough, more or less wide, that is placed around a pastry base or bottom of a pie, tart, or vol-au-vent, to contain the filling.
BANETTE:
(French culinary glossary) An elongated loaf of bread with pointed ends, shaped like a horn. A baguette made by hand from flour sold by a group of millers. The word originates from the Occitan word baneta (little horn).
BANNE:
(Tlfi) Large basket, most often made of wicker.
(D. Alliot, Larpepem vous louchébem?) Piece of white cloth used to protect meat during transport.
BANNETON:
(ref nec) Wicker basket lined (linen) inside used for proofing bread dough.
BANQUET:
(TLFi) A formal meal, bringing together many guests to celebrate an important event.
A philosophical meal, the description of which has been preserved for us by some authors ( DG ). More specifically, the last part of a gathering, which follows the meal itself and during which people discuss and drink.
BAR:
(CNRTL) A very voracious sea fish, with highly prized flesh, caught by line and sold in France with a label on the gill allowing identification of the name of the boat and the fishing location.
BARAQUILLE:
(François Marin, The Continuation of Comus's Gifts ) The term is used in the expression "pâté à la Baraquille," or simply "baraquille." It refers to small, hot pastries similar to vol-au-vents or bouchées à la reine. The shape is not specified. See https://nouvellesgastronomiques.com/herve-this-terminologie-baraquille/
CHURNING:
(The butcher-caterer's companion's book) (1) Expression used in charcuterie to designate a mixing by impact.
(ref nec) (2) Operation that consists of beating cream to make butter.
CHURN:
(TLFi) A wooden, stoneware, or glass container used to churn cream into butter. Now made of stainless steel, this appliance is equipped with electric beaters and mixers.
BARBANTANE:
(Ribereau-Gayon) The barbantane is a barrel with a capacity of 563 liters of wine.
BARBARIE (A LA):
Vincent La Chapelle, for chickens: stuffed, cooked in milk with herbs and seasoning (served with a remoulade).
BARB:
(TLFi) Cartilages that serve as horizontal fins for flatfish.
COTTON CANDY:
(CNRTL) A sweet treat made of strands of sugar, usually colored. When the sugar is heated to a high temperature in a type of centrifuge, it forms strands which are typically wound around a stick to form a large ball.
CAPUCIN'S BEARD:
(ref nec) Name given to a variety of wild chicory.
BARBECUE:
(TLFi) Small stove equipped with a grill usually topped with a rotisserie, operating with charcoal and used outdoors or in an apartment for grilling, cooking roasts, fish.
When it is horizontal, the meats become loaded with about 2000 times more carcinogenic benzopyrenes than when it is vertical, and only infrared radiation ensures cooking.
BARBE A ROBERT
(Bonnefons) Real name of the devil's sauce.
BARBOTON:
(CNRTL) Stew made with lamb meat (fricassed) and potatoes cut into large cubes, as well as carrots.
BARBOUILLE (EN):
(ref nec) A way of preparing rooster or rabbit with red wine, common in Berry and Nivernais.
BUBBLE:
(ref nec) Bubble, Scophthalmus rhombus , is a flatfish caught in the eastern Atlantic Ocean from northern Morocco to Iceland, as well as in the Mediterranean and Black Seas. This fish is closely related to turbot, which is often preferred. Along with sole, it is one of the most prized flatfish for its flesh.
BARDE:
(TLFi) Thin slice of bacon used to wrap pieces of meat, game, poultry that one wants to roast, or to line the edges of a terrine.
BARDER:
To cover food before roasting with a layer of bard to prevent it from drying out
(The Butcher-Caterer's Companion Book). Place a layer of bard in a mold or terrine.
Cover parchment paper with bard to assemble a ballotine or galantine.
BARDIERE
(The Butcher's and Caterer's Companion Book) The fatty part completely covering the pork loin.
It is the fatty part that covers the back. Reduced to very small cubes, it is one of the ingredients in certain sausages and mortadella.
BARIGOULE:
(H. This, Nouvelles gastronomiques ) A preparation of artichokes that should be distinguished from artichokes à la provençale. In artichokes à la barigoule, the stem, cleared of its choke, is filled with mushrooms, notably morels (which gave the preparation its name) or agarics, and sautéed in a mixture of fats (bacon, butter, oil) and consommé.
BARISTE:
(ref nec) French adaptation of the Italian word barista. A person specializing in the preparation of espresso-based coffee drinks. The meaning of the term was slightly modified when it was introduced into English. It then specifically referred to a person who prepares and serves coffee. This is the meaning that was retained when the word entered German and French.
BARLON:
(P. Ribereau-Gayon) Vat that collects the wine from the press.
BARON:
(TLFi) Large piece of beef.
LAMB BARON:
(TLFi) The legs, the saddle and the fillet of a lamb, a sheep.
BARON DE MOUTON:
(ref nec) A whole consisting of both legs and the English saddle, not divided. To be eaten roasted or on a spit. First-class meat.
TOOTHBAR:
BARREL:
( Wine Glossary ) A large cask with a capacity varying by region (between 136 and 400 liters) used for shipping wines, oils, spirits , and solid goods (cod, etc.).
( Practical Guide to Wine, P. Ribereau-Gayon) A small cask used for aging wine. In Bordeaux, its capacity is 225 liters.
BEAUNE BARREL:
(INRA Wine Glossary) The Beaune barrel is an oak cask used in Burgundy that can hold 228 liters of wine.
BORDEAUX BARREL (or BORDELAISE):
(INRA Wine Glossary) The Bordeaux barrel is an oak cask used in the Bordeaux vineyards and can hold 225 liters of wine.
CAHORS BARREL:
(INRA Wine Glossary) A Cahors barrel is an oak barrel that can hold 224 liters of wine
HERMITAGE BARREL:
(INRA Wine Glossary) The Hermitage barrel is a piece of oak with the capacity to hold 205 liters of wine.
BARQUETTE:
(ref nec) Small boat shaped with puff pastry or shortcrust pastry, or even in a salad leaf, designed to receive a savory or sweet filling.
BARTAVELLE:
(CNRTL) Red-legged partridge of the South, larger than the common partridge, living on high peaks and in pine forests.
NECK BASE, NECK BASE:
(ISO, for containers) Junction of the neck and shoulder of a container.
BASIL:
(ref nec) Native to India, basil is a species of therophyte herbaceous plant in the Lamiaceae family, cultivated as a culinary herb. It is also known as Roman basil, royal herb, common basil, sauce basil, or shoemaker's orange.
Legend has it that Alexander the Great (356-323 BC) brought it back from India, where it was called {bhûtaghni}, meaning "monster killer." After Greece, basil is said to have captivated Italy, then France, where, from the Middle Ages onward, it was planted in medicinal herb gardens.
Etymology: The word basil comes from the Late Latin {basilicum}, meaning royal, derived from the Greek {basilikon}, "royal plant," itself derived from {basileus}, "king" in Ancient Greek.
There are several varieties of basil.
The most well-known is Italian basil with large green leaves (Ocimum basilicum).
Basil (Ocimum sanctum) is revered in India as Rama tulsi for green basil and Krishna tulsi for red basil; these two plants symbolize Vishnu's earthly presence.
A small, pointed-leaf variety is called lemon basil (Ocimum basilicum citriodorum), a staple ingredient in Thai cuisine.
Cinnamon basil has deep green leaves and small lavender flowers; it is used in desserts or as a decorative herb.
Purple basil (Ocimum basilicum purpurascens) is similar to traditional Italian green basil, but its distinctive feature is its color.
Thai basil (Ocimum basilicum var. thyrsiflora) has notes of cloves and anise and is very common in Southeast Asian cuisine.
Lettuce-leaf basil (Ocimum basilicum) has very large leaves and an aniseed aroma.
Mammoth basil, as its name suggests, has leaves as large as a hand and can be used in salads.
Peruvian basil has flavors of mint, oregano, and even camphor, and is used in sauces or as an infusion. Anise basil is used in cocktails and in cooking.
It should be noted that methylchavicol (or estragole, or para-allyl-anisole), which makes up the majority of basil essential oil, is metabolized into hydromethylchavicol, which is carcinogenic and teratogenic. Methylchavicol is poorly soluble in water but highly soluble in ethanol and oil.
SHORT RIBS:
(ref nec) Short ribs, a very tasty cut and very similar to ribeye, but less renowned.
LOW TEMPERATURE (molecular cuisine):
(H. This) A technique that modernizes braising. The pieces to be cooked, whether or not they are vacuum-sealed in plastic bags, are heated to a temperature above 60°C and below 100°C. This long cooking time tenderizes tough cuts of meat by dissolving the collagen. Above all, this cooking method prevents the contraction of the collagen and the loss of juices.
When molecular cuisine was first proposed in the 1980s, the idea was to use laboratory-grade circulators, but manufacturers of culinary equipment quickly introduced more sophisticated, if not more precise, utensils: ovens with low-temperature functions, etc.
BASIN:
(TLFi) A portable container with a flat bottom and raised edges, round or oval in shape and of varying dimensions, most often intended to hold a liquid.
A. A kitchen utensil without a handle, of medium depth, generally made of metal, and used for cooking or washing.
Basins are used for whipping egg whites or cooking jams.
SPRINKLING:
(CNRTL) The action of sprinkling the dough to soften it before working it.
For pizza terminology: This step aims to give the pizza dough its final consistency by adding a thin stream of liquid (water or oil). It also allows you to adjust the final temperature of the dough.
BASIN:
(French Dictionary) Wide and deep container with various uses.
GREEN-PRESERVING BASIN:
(H. This) An untinned copper basin used to preserve the green color of vegetables, particularly green beans. The effect resulted from the binding of copper ions released by the basin to chlorophyll molecules, which give the color green (replacing the magnesium present).
However, copper in abundance is toxic. The use of copper sulfate in cooking has been prohibited since 1902.
BASSINER:
(ref nec) In baking, the action of adding water to the dough during the mixing process (see this word).
The water used for bassing helps regulate the hydration of the dough as well as its temperature.
BATARD:
(boulangerie.net) a long, fancy bread (approximately 250 to 300 grams), shorter than a baguette
BUTTER MIXER:
(TLFi) This is an instrument for beating and making butter
BATISTINE:
(IPCF) Liqueur from Cambrai, of transparent "anise" green color with a sweet and aniseed taste, made of star anise, saffron, angelica, caraway, white and crystallized rock sugar, fennel, peppermint, distilled spring water, lemon balm and vanilla.
BAKER'S STICK:
(ref nec) An 8 cm long chocolate stick used to make chocolate croissants.
(O. Ducommun) Bakers had a stick on which they carved notches. After a certain number of notches, the apprentice became a baker.
ROYAL STAFF:
(François Massialot) "Make a stuffing of whatever you deem appropriate, but it must be fine; spread several small sheets of thin dough on the table; then take pieces of the stuffing and shape them like spindles; wrap them in the small sheets of dough you have prepared; mold them well, forming them into the shape of spindles; decorate them all over with small fleur-de-lis; ensure they are well sealed and fry them like rissoles. They are used to garnish a piece of beef or as hors d'oeuvres. "
Note that Edouard Nignon usurped this name to designate a type of croquette filled with foie gras. Consequently, this latter dish will be called "croquette à la Nignon."
STEADING:
(Civa) This winemaking process, primarily used for white wines, consists of resuspending the fine lees that settle at the bottom of barrels or tanks. This operation was traditionally carried out using a stick, hence its name. Stirring protects wines against oxidation and increases the sensation of richness and smoothness on the palate. It promotes the development of complex aromas.
(ref nec) Resuspension of the wine lees while they rest in barrels and sometimes in tanks.
After vinification, a wine can be transferred to barrels, tanks, or casks. This is called aging. During barrel aging, the winemaker may regularly perform stirring, that is, stir the lees that settle at the bottom of the barrel to mix them with the juice (somewhat equivalent to the punch-down/pump-over/rack-and-return operations during vinification). This process helps to give the wine more body and roundness.
STICK:
(ref nec) Vegetable stick cut to 5 cm long and 0.5 cm in diameter.
FLORIST STICK:
(ref nec) Vegetable stick cut to 2 cm long and 0.2 mm in section.
GARDENING STICK:
(ref nec) Vegetable stick cut to 4 cm long with a 0.4 mm cross-section.
BATTAGE:
(ref nec) The final step in mixing the ingredients of rillettes; this operation can be done while the mixture is still hot.
(The Companion Butcher-Caterer's Book) In charcuterie: a term used in the production of rillettes to describe the process of remixing each of the ingredients.
PITCH:
(ref nec) Utensil used to flatten and tenderize meats.
BEATER:
(ref nec) Device used to beat preparations.
MIXER-BEATER:
(ref nec) Multi-function device used for beating and mixing.
BEATING:
(The butcher-caterer's companion's book) To vigorously work a mixture or preparation with a whisk.
BATTERIE:
(TLFi) Set of utensils used in cooking and which were originally made of beaten copper.
BAUDRUCHE:
(CNRTL) Peritoneal membrane of beef or sheep which, degreased and prepared into an almost transparent film, serves many purposes, notably in the manufacture of inflatable objects, particularly as a casing, for sausages, salamis, scarlet tongues, etc.
BAULUS or BOLUS:
(CNRTL) Long and thin piece of dough used to band certain pastries.
ANGELFISH:
(CNRTL) Fish of the Lophiidae family, living in the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean, also called devil or sea toad because of its voracious appetite, remarkable for the size of its head and mouth and for its pectoral fins carried on stumps.
BAVARIAN CREAM:
(J. Favre) A dessert made by whisking egg yolks with sugar, adding milk, cooking, then mixing with gelatin and whipped cream.
Marie Antoine Carême called this dessert Bavarian cheese.
BAVAROISE:
(H. This) An ambiguous abbreviation (and therefore one to be avoided), since it can refer to both "Bavarian cream" and "Bavarian sauce."
In any case, we will not follow the CNRTL, which confuses bavaroise and bavarois.
FLANK STEAK:
(ref nec) "Flank steak" is a butcher's term referring to the flat abdominal muscles of cattle. In beef, there are three types of flank steak, two of which are intended for grilling or pan-frying:
– the sirloin flank steak, an abdominal muscle whose shape resembles that of a flank steak, weighs between 2 and 3 kg. Its fibers are long and loosely packed. Sliced across the grain, the sirloin flank steak is a tender and flavorful cut, best reserved for steaks.
– the rump steak, taken from the groin area of the beef, is square in shape. It offers meat with long fibers and a texture roughly identical to that of the sirloin flank steak. When properly trimmed of sinew, it is also very flavorful but generally less tender.
– the stewing flank steak is a cut for boiling. This flank steak is the muscle that sandwiches the sirloin flank steak. Very long and flat, it is sold as is, to be cooked in a pot-au-feu with other meats. Its weight varies between 600 and 900 g. It is also suitable for boiled meats and stews; it is no longer included in official classifications.
SIDE STEAK:
(ref nec) There are three types of flank steak in beef, two of which are intended for grilling or sautéing: the sirloin steak, the flank steak, and the pot-au-feu steak.
The sirloin steak is an abdominal muscle. Its fibers are long and loosely packed; when sliced across the grain, the sirloin steak is tender and flavorful.
Béarnaise (sauce):
(ref nec) A sauce made from vinegar or white wine reduced with shallots, egg yolks, butter, and tarragon.
It should be noted that international food industry trade regulations allow the sale of Béarnaise where the shallots are replaced by shallot essence, and the butter by vegetable fat: this is a scandal that must be fought.
LIVESTOCK:
(PF La Varenne) rooster combs, kidneys, pigeon wings
The Beatillas, by H. This.
Beatillas? To understand what they are, we must begin with religion, and more specifically, the Catholic religion. First, there is the "first order," that of the monks who take perpetual vows. Then, secondly, there are the nuns, women members of a female religious community, who generally take vows of poverty, chastity, and obedience. They choose to dedicate their lives to serving others (apostolic sister) or to leave society to live a life of prayer and contemplation (contemplative nun or sister) turned toward God in a monastery or convent. Finally, there are the tertiaries, members of a third order, an association of the faithful inspired, most often, by the rule of a religious order. Beatillas, as we are getting to, were initially small devotional objects (rosaries, Agnus Dei, etc.) made by nuns or tertiaries. The name comes from "béates," a term that referred to women whose role was to educate children and teach religion.
It is through extension, or perhaps jokingly, that the term seems to have eventually come to designate "small meats or delicate dishes (rooster combs, sweetbreads, mushrooms, etc.) used to garnish pies or served separately."
The usage is ancient: as early as 1585, the word is found to designate "small culinary things," sweets. In 1680, we find the formal definition: "Béatilles. All sorts of small, delicate things that are put in pastries, in pies, such as rooster combs, sweetbreads, etc."
Here, it should be understood that a pâté is not a terrine: it is a pastry containing various ingredients, more like a pie… which, let's not forget, was originally a round loaf of bread. Today, especially in Alsace, it's also remembered that vol-au-vent is similar to pâté, and that the term "béatilles" (stuffings) refers to everything used to fill it: rooster combs and sweetbreads have been mentioned, but we can also add diced poultry, pieces of mushrooms, scallops, shrimp, mussels...
See Hervé This, "Les béatilles," https://nouvellesgastronomiques.com/terminologie-les-beatilles-par-herve-this/
, June 3, 2019
BEAUFORT:
(ref nec) Beaufort is a pressed, cooked-curd cheese from Savoy. It is made from raw cow's milk. Cooperatives are responsible for its production, aging, and marketing. Summer Beaufort is made in dairy farms from June to October, while Alpine Beaufort is made according to strict specifications: twice a day, in a chalet at an altitude of over 1,500 meters, and using the milk from a single herd.
GOOSE BEC:
(ref nec) Name of a cut of beef, more commonly called sirloin tip.
BIRD'S BEAK:
(ref nec) Test carried out when whipping an egg white into a meringue to assess its firmness.
POURER:
(sommelier) A metal and rubber tool adaptable to any bottle neck, used to pour liquids easily, or even to control the amount poured. (English: pourer).
BÉCARD or BECCARD:
(TLFi) Salmon, pike, or trout of a certain size or variety (especially with a protruding lower jaw).
(Couchamps, General Dictionary of Cuisine) In the 19th century, cooks used this term to refer to the female salmon.
WOODCOCK:
(TLFi) A migratory wading bird inhabiting wetlands. Consumed after being put down but not after being left to age. Generally wrapped in bacon and roasted on a spit or in the oven, cooked until rare, accompanied by a bed of breadcrumbs spread with the prepared intestines.
(D. Alliot, Larpepem vous louchébem?) A thin, emaciated, and poor-quality animal. Also used to describe a butcher who sells bad meat.
SNIPE:
(ref nec) A snipe is a migratory wading bird of the Scolopacidae family, slightly smaller than the woodcock, which inhabits marshes, ponds, and damp meadows.
Snipe are hunted from August to April (but are best in autumn). Its plumage is brownish-black on the head and back, and white underneath. Its markings are the same as those of the woodcock.
BÉCHAMEL: ( Culinary Guide , see also "Béchamel Sauce")
(Proportions for 5 liters).
White roux: 650 grams.
Liquid: 5 liters of boiling milk.
Auxiliary ingredients: 300 grams of very white, lean veal, diced, braised in butter with: 2 small chopped onions, a sprig of thyme, a pinch of mignonette pepper, a grating of nutmeg, and 25 grams of salt.
Preparation: Dilute the roux with the boiling milk; bring to a boil while stirring, and add: seasonings, spices, and braised veal.
Cook gently for one hour; strain through a fine-mesh sieve and dot the surface of the sauce with a piece of butter.
When the Béchamel sauce is intended for strictly lean preparations, the veal is omitted, but the indicated aromatics should be retained.
This sauce can also be made more quickly by following these steps: Add the seasoning, chopped onion, thyme, mignonette pepper, and nutmeg to the boiling milk; cover and simmer on the side of the stove for 10 minutes. Strain this infused milk through the roux; bring to a boil, and cook the sauce for only 15 to 20 minutes.
OLD-FASHIONED BÉCHAMEL
(Jules Gouffé) In a saucepan, melt butter, add onions, carrots, and veal tenderloin. Sauté for 10 minutes, then add flour. Moisten with stock and double cream. Add mushrooms, a bouquet garni, salt, and mignonette pepper. Simmer for two hours, skimming and degreasing. Reduce with cream.
Lenten: fish poached in milk with béchamel sauce, served with a light béchamel sauce in which butter has been emulsified.
BECHETER:
(D. Alliot, Larpepem vous louchébem?) action of arranging sheep carcasses head to tail in a car.
BECQUET:
(TLFI) Common name for salmon, pike.
BEERAWECKA:
(J. Syren, Alsatian Pastry ) Beerawecka is an Alsatian cake made from leavened or unleavened dough, flavored with kirsch, to which fresh fruit, dried fruit or candied fruit are added.
BEIGNET
(CNRTL) Dishes or desserts composed of meats, vegetables, fruits, fish, coated in batter and then deep-fried.
CARNIVAL DOUGHNUTS
(ref nec) On the eve of Shrove Tuesday, it was customary in Alsace, Lorraine, and other regions to prepare doughnuts called Carnival doughnuts. The custom of making doughnuts dates back to the Roman festival of the Kalends of March. In the 13th century, the word "beigne" meant a ball of dough that is fried in oil and puffs up, hence the popular usage that developed from it: a beigne meaning a bump from a blow or the blow itself.
In other French regions, for example in Lyon, these doughnuts are called bugnes (a name of Celtic origin meaning bump), but elsewhere they may be called oreillettes, merveilles, or even Fasnachtkiechla in Alsace, Berliner in Germany, and donuts or fritters in English-speaking countries.
These Carnival doughnuts are made with eggs, sugar, cream, white flour, and yeast, very often flavored with orange blossom water, and also with brandy (rum, mirabelle plum, kirsch, plum, etc.). The dough for these doughnuts is cut using a fluted pastry wheel and then fried in a bath of oil; in the past, in the countryside, lard or beef kidney fat was often used.
FRIED DOUGHNUTS:
(Darenne and Duval) "Fried doughnuts. — Mix into a firm dough: 500 g flour, 160 g sugar with 2 eggs, 50 g butter, a little salt, cognac and orange blossom water. Roll out to about 3 millimeters thick; cut into 10 centimeter squares, inside which strips are made without separating them, either with a knife or a pastry wheel; pass a piece of wood between these strips to separate them by sliding them into very hot oil; turn them over to brown them evenly. Dust with sugar."
POTATO FRITTERS:
SOUFFLÉ DOUGHNUTS:
(Darenne and Duval) Nun's fart or soufflé doughnuts. — 1 liter of water, 10 g salt, 20 g sugar, 200 g butter, proceed as for choux pastry, dry thoroughly before adding the 14 eggs. Vanilla or orange blossom water.
MOTHER-IN-LAW:
(D. Alliot, Larpepem vous louchébem?) nickname given to the saw.
BELLEVUE:
(ref nec) Cold dish (meat, fish, shellfish) served with aspic.
It is not true that this dish owes its name to the Bellevue Pavilion in Meudon... because cookbooks predating the pavilion's construction already contain recipes "Bellevue" or "à la Bellevue".
Auricoste de Lazarque ( Cuisine messine ) notes that "chicken fillets à la Bellevue were conceived at Bellevue by Madame de Pompadour."
In all the old recipes, there is a cold dish, possibly covered with a hot-and-cold sauce, in aspic. The earliest mention of "à la Bellevue" appears to be in Viard and Fouret's Cuisinier royal : it refers to braised veal chops, served with a border of aspic and topped with green mayonnaise.
BELSHAZZAR:
(ISO) Wine bottle with a capacity of 16 conventional quarts (approximately 12 L).
BELVAL:
(ref nec) Belval Abbey was founded in 1893, and therefore this cheese can be dated to the late 19th century. It is a monastic cheese, in the same vein as Port-Salut cheese. It is made in Mayenne at Mont-des-Chats Abbey, where it is purchased white and then matured at Belval. Shape: a disc 20-25 cm in diameter, 0.75 cm thick, and weighing 2 kg. Ivory white color.
BENEDICTINE:
(CNRTL) Liqueur originally made by the Benedictines of the Abbey of Fécamp.
BENEDICTINE (A LA):
(For gourmets) A side dish or garnish made with cod. It is the presence of cod, a Lenten fish, that gave this garnish its name, Benedictine, evoking monastic austerity. Cod Benedictine is a type of brandade to which potatoes have been added and which is baked au gratin.
BENETON:
(boulangerie.net) a handleless wooden basket, lined with cloth, in which the farmer would raise his sourdough starter the day before baking to take it to the oven. When the dough had risen, he would cut it into equal pieces and place them in the beneton.
BENZALDEHYDE:
(H. This) Compound with a bitter almond odor; present in bitter almonds.
BEQUETS:
(ref nec) Another name used to designate the top of the ribs in the Marseille region.
BERBERE:
(ref nec) Berbere, or simply berbere, is a blend of spices and aromatics used in Ethiopia. It typically contains dried chili peppers, garlic, ginger, red onion, rue seeds, cardamom, cloves, and cinnamon. This blend is used in most Ethiopian stews and casseroles. In Europe, this spice mix is sought after because it can serve the same culinary purpose as paprika, while offering a more pronounced aroma. In Ethiopia, each family prepares its berbere according to their own taste, but it is always very hot. In Europe, the available preparations usually contain less chili pepper.
BERCY:
Sauce made from a reduction of white wine and chopped shallots, butter and beef marrow.
BERGAMOT:
(CNRTL and Wikipedia).
- A type of melting pear with a very good flavor.
- A type of orange with a strong aroma from which a pleasant essence is extracted. The fruit of the bergamot tree, a member of the Rutaceae family, this citrus fruit has been cultivated primarily in the province of Reggio di Calabria, Italy, since the 18th century, and only on a narrow strip of the Calabrian coast. According to Giorgio Gallesio (botanist and pomologist) in 1811, it originated from a cross between a bitter orange and a lime. Others maintain that it was brought back from the Canary Islands by Christopher Columbus and that it takes its name from the city of Berga, north of Barcelona. The high density of planting in Calabria, long occupied by the Arabs, suggests that this is a varietal selection typical of the Iberian-Moorish agronomists of the Middle Ages (9th to 11th centuries), its use for its essence is reminiscent of the citrus fruits that were their favorite: bitter orange, citron, etc.
NANCY BERGAMOT:
(ref nec) A slightly tart, square, flat, translucent, golden-colored candy, flavored with bergamot essential oil, a specialty of Nancy's confectioners.
Made with bergamot essential oil, these candies are undeniably part of Lorraine's gastronomic heritage. They are produced by the Stanislas artisanal confectionery in the heart of Nancy, which has earned them a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI). Created around 1850, they are attributed to a Nancy confectioner who is said to have had the idea of adding a few drops of bergamot essence, originally from Calabria, Italy, to cooked sugar.
BERGERETTE:
(P. Ribereau-Gayon) Wine mixed with honey.
BERGUES:
(ref nec) Bergues is the protected designation of origin (PDO) for a raw milk cheese made by a few farmers in the area around Bergues, near Dunkirk in the Nord department of France. Bergues cheese is about 20 centimeters in diameter and made with partially skimmed raw milk. It is a semi-hard or soft cheese. Its maturation, which lasts a minimum of three weeks, takes place in raised cellars where it is washed daily with beer. Once ready to eat, it has a chalky appearance and a strong, characteristic aroma. It is relatively low in fat (20 to 25%).
(Inventory of the Gastronomic Heritage of France) The existence of Bergues cheese is ancient, as evidenced in the municipal archives of Bergues-Saint-Winoc, dating back to 1554, by a donation made by the Vice-Admiral of the Sea, Philippe de Bèvres. Uncooked pressed cheese, regular disc with very rounded edges, 16/25 cm in diameter, 4/6 cm high and weighing 1.5 to 4 kg. The rind is slightly wrinkled, not bloomy, and the interior is a bright white.
BERBIS:
(D. Alliot, Larpepem vous louchébem?) bad sheep.
BERLINGOT:
(TLFi) A hard, tetrahedral-shaped candy, often with two-tone stripes, made with caramelized sugar and flavored with various flavors (fruit, mint).
Tradition holds that the making of berlingots dates back to the pontificate of Clement V, the first Avignon pope, that their invention is attributed to one of his cooks named Sylvestre, and that he initially made them with caramel.
BERLINGOT DE CARPENTRAS:
(ref nec) Hard, translucent candy made from candied fruit syrup. It comes in the form of small pyramids of different colors, always striped with white.
BERLINGOTIERE:
(Ets Jassaranis) Machine which allows the production of berlingots of standard caliber.
BERLOT:
(D. Alliot, Larpepem vous louchébem?) sheep.
GARNACH or BERNACLE:
(French Academy Dictionary) A wild goose with a short beak, spending the summer in the far north and the winter on our coasts.
(ref nec, for "bernache") Also called new wine, or vin nouveau. A seasonal aperitif made from grape must in the early stages of fermentation.
(TLFi) for "barnache", "barnache", "bernacle": A five-valved shellfish shaped like a spatulate beak, similar to that of the barnacle.
BERNICLE, BERNIC:
(TLFi) Regional name for limpets ( see this word ).
BERRICHONNE (A LA)
(to be verified) Garnish composed of braised cabbage balls, small onions and whole chestnuts and a slice of lean bacon, most often accompanying large pieces of mutton.
BERZELIUS:
(invention H. This) Sauce thickened by heating proteins and an aqueous solution. This preparation was named after the Swedish chemist Jons Berzelius.
BESAIGRE:
(French Academy Dictionary) Which becomes sour, referring to wine.
It is used as a masculine noun. This wine is turning sour.
BESCOIN:
(IPCF) An elongated brioche flavored with saffron and anise, with one or two small horns at each end, depending on the baker. It was made in Haute-Savoie and also in Tarentaise a few years ago. The bescoin was traditionally made by the baker on the day of the village fair, for the patron saint's festival, and for certain religious holidays. It was hung on a boxwood branch that was blessed at church.
Cambrai Sweet:
(ref nec) A mint-flavored candy that is a specialty of Cambrai. The Cambrai sweet is shaped like a small rectangular cushion and is flavored with mint.
The recipe is said to have originated from a mistake:
- according to Afchain, a confectioner's apprentice accidentally dropped mint into the berlingot mixture; to hide this error, he stretched the dough until it turned white;
- according to Despinoy, it was simply a baking error.
Two manufacturers perpetuate the tradition: Afchain and Despinoy.
BEEF:
(M. Chauvet) Group of plants, of which several subgroups are distinguished: spinach beets, chard, garden beets, fodder beets, sugar beets.
BETTELMA:
(IPCF) Pastry from Alsace and Franche-Comté: Stale bread cooked in milk flavored with cinnamon and vanilla, then sugar, eggs, and black cherries (or mirabelle plums in Lorraine) are added. Baked in a buttered cake tin. From the beginning, the fruit varied according to the season.
BEUCHELLE:
(ref nec) The beuchelle called à la tourangelle is, according to a recipe from the beginning of the 20th century by the cook Édouard Nignon, a pie prepared in the Tours region, based on veal kidney stew mixed with mushrooms, especially ceps, morels and shiitakes and a cream and butter sauce.
BUTTERING:
(Treatise on Artisan Pastry. Bilheux and Escoffier) The technique of coating a mold with butter. The fats used are either firm (for example, for a tart ring), softened (for example, a madeleine pan), or melted (for a sponge cake pan).
The buttering process directly impacts the outcome of a baked good. Different buttering methods ensure:
- proper rising (hot soufflé)
- easy unmolding (cake, pound cake, sponge cake).
The butter can be firm (tart ring), softened (madeleine pan, sponge cake), or melted (sponge cake pan).
Buttering techniques:
1. Light buttering (choux pastry, puff pastry): the pans are lightly buttered using a cloth pad or paper towel.
2. Buttering and possibly flouring (meringue, sponge cake): Melt the butter and brush it on, taking care to crisscross the strokes to distribute it evenly over the surface. Let the butter solidify and then dust the baking sheet with a thin layer of flour. Turn the sheet over and tap it sharply to remove any excess flour.
3. Baking sheet lined with parchment paper (sponge cake, sponge cake, biscuit): Brush the baking sheet with melted butter to help the parchment paper adhere.
4. Buttering the molds (sponge cake): Spread the butter in a thin layer in both directions, starting on the bottom and working up the sides. Avoid going over the solidified butter to prevent scratches that would make the cake stick. Turn the molds upside down to cool to avoid excess grease in the corners.
5. Buttering with softened butter (for Genoa cake, hot soufflé): the butter should be spread with a brush in a fairly thick layer. Lining with almonds (for Genoa cake, kugelhopf, or with sugar for hot soufflés) must be done before cooling to ensure the elements adhere to the sides of the mold.
6. Buttering a ring mold with firm butter, applying the butter with your finger to the inside surface.
BUTTER:
(ref https://www.legifrance.gouv.fr/affichTexteArticle.do;jsessionid=E7FF9922304014AB9546BB9C666A9BA1.tplgfr26s_2?idArticle=LEGIARTI000006563634&cidTexte=LEGITEXT000006066374&dateTexte=20190601)
a) The designation "raw butter" or "raw cream butter" is reserved for butter obtained exclusively from cream that has not undergone any heat treatment for sanitizing.
b) The designation "extra-fine butter" is reserved for butter made exclusively from cream:
1. That has not undergone any sanitizing treatment other than pasteurization;
2. That has not been frozen or deep-frozen;
3. Production must begin within a maximum of seventy-two hours after the collection of the milk or cream, and within a maximum of forty-eight hours after the skimming of the milk, and must not have undergone any deacidification.
This designation may not be used to designate butters that have undergone freezing, deep-freezing, blending, or churning.
c) The designation "fine butter" is reserved for butter in which the proportion of frozen or deep-frozen dairy raw material used does not exceed 30%.
The butters defined in this article must not be prepared from whey cream.
Joint decrees of the ministers responsible for agriculture and consumer affairs will, where applicable, establish the physicochemical and organoleptic criteria that these butters must meet.
(d) The designation "pasteurized butter A," as defined in Decree No. 84-1147 of December 7, 1984, is reserved for butters defined in points (b) and (c) of this article and which also meet the organoleptic or physicochemical criteria defined by a joint order of the ministers responsible for agriculture and consumer affairs.
The designation "cooking butter" is reserved for products made exclusively from milk fat obtained after the near-total removal of water and non-fat dry matter from milk, cream, and butter by physical processes, and containing a minimum of 96 grams of fat per 100 grams of finished product.
The designation "concentrated butter" is reserved for the product defined in the preceding paragraph and containing a minimum of 99.8 grams of fat per 100 grams of finished product.
Let us add ( https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/FR/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:32018R0149&from=LT) that butter must contain (by mass) a minimum of 82% fat, a maximum of 16% water, a maximum of 2% non-fat dry matter.
GARLIC BUTTER:
(ref nec) Cook garlic cloves in salted water, refresh, drain. Mash. Mix with butter. Pass through a sieve. Season.
Reduced-fat butter, half-butter:
(ref https://www.legifrance.gouv.fr/affichTexteArticle.do;jsessionid=E7FF9922304014AB9546BB9C666A9BA1.tplgfr26s_2 ?idArticle=LEGIARTI000006563634&cidTexte=LEGITEXT000006066374&dateTexte=20190601)
These are butters with a reduced fat content; they contain less fat than standard butter. They are most often sold under brand names. Their soft consistency makes them easy to spread, and they withstand low heat; however, they are not suitable for cooking due to their high water content. The presence of certain additives—starch, flour, or others—is clearly indicated on the packaging. They are all made from reduced-fat, pasteurized cream. No other vegetable fats are added. Reduced-fat butter has a milk fat content of between 60 and 65%. Half-fat butter has between 41 and 60%, and light butter, or low-fat butter, contains 39 to 41% fat.
ALMOND BUTTER:
(ref nec) Blanch the almonds (boiling water), pound with a few drops of cold water, and grind into a paste. Mix with butter, sift, and season.
ANCHOVY BUTTER:
(ref nec) Reduce anchovy fillets to a puree, mix with butter, pass through a sieve, season.
BERCY BUTTER WITH Marrow:
(ref nec) Chop shallots, add white wine, reduce to dry, cool, add to softened butter, chopped parsley, lemon juice, season, mix in cubed and poached marrow.
BEURRE BLANC:
(F. Massialot, 1705) Butter, salt, vinegar, nutmeg, pepper.
Today, it is often a "white sauce" (see this term), that is, an emulsion obtained by whisking butter into a reduction of shallots and herbs in a mixture of vinegar and white wine. More generally, it is a "butter emulsion" (see this word).
COCOA BUTTER:
(ref nec) Vegetable fat that makes up more than half of the cocoa beans. Cocoa butter has a very low melting point, slightly below body temperature, and can be extracted when cocoa beans are ground into a liquid paste, known as cocoa liquor. When pressed, the butter separates and can be used in various ways, including making white chocolate.
Cassel Butter:
(ref nec) The name Cassel butter can be explained in two ways. Firstly, by the renown of Mount Cassel and the town of the same name, a historical site, the scene of numerous battles, geographically significant as the highest mountain in Flanders, and economically important as the Cassel market was once very significant. Secondly, by the importance of livestock farming in Cassel, which is also the birthplace of the Flemish breed of cattle and a grazing area within Flanders. Know-how: skimming of the raw milk immediately after milking. Maturation of the cream for 3 days, for the butter's aromatic quality.
CHIVRY BUTTER:
(ref nec) Composed of parsley, chopped shallots, tarragon, chives, fresh salad burnet, blanched, refreshed and pressed. Pounded in a mortar, butter added and passed through a sieve.
CLARIFIED BUTTER:
(ref nec) A preparation almost entirely reduced to fat (triglycerides) obtained by heating, decanting, and skimming butter.
(Darenne and Duval) Butter melted at a slightly elevated temperature, but without letting it brown; it is left to rest, then decanted to separate it from the whey and impurities [these are probably proteins] that remain at the bottom of the pan; it is reserved for use.
COLBERT BUTTER:
(ref nec) In maître d'hôtel butter, incorporate meat glaze and chopped tarragon.
RED COLORING BUTTER:
(ref nec) Pound crustacean shells with butter (equal parts). Melt in a bain-marie while stirring, filter through a terrine of ice water, press in a cloth.
GREEN-COLORABLE BUTTER:
(ref nec) Chop the spinach and extract the juice by squeezing it in a cloth. Place the juice in a saucepan and coagulate over a double boiler. Pour into a muslin cloth and drain. Collect the contents of the muslin cloth and mix with twice its weight in butter. Pass through a sieve.
COMPOUND BUTTER:
(ref nec) Butter with added flavorings, cold or hot.
Concentrated or dehydrated butter:
(ref https://www.legifrance.gouv.fr/affichTexteArticle.do;jsessionid=E7FF9922304014AB9546BB9C666A9BA1.tplgfr26s_2 ?idArticle=LEGIARTI000006563634&cidTexte=LEGITEXT000006066374&dateTexte=20190601) Its fat content varies between 96.7% and 99.9%, while that of fresh butter is at least 82%.
Concentrated butter is fresh butter from which almost all the water has been extracted by churning and centrifugation; in other words, it is dehydrated butter. It contains at least 99.8% fat and may, in some cases, contain coloring or flavoring. Reserved for pastry and catering professionals, it is used for making puff pastry, viennoiseries and ice cream.
RAW BUTTER:
(ref nec) Obtained exclusively from raw, unpasteurized cream, it is fragile and does not keep for long.
SHRIMP BUTTER:
(ref nec) Wash shrimp, pound, mix with butter, pass through a sieve.
CULTURED BUTTER:
(ref nec) Salted or unsalted butter with a distinct and delicate taste, made from cream to which a bacterial culture is added before churning. It is sold under the names "antique butter," "old-fashioned butter," or "old-fashioned butter."
SEMI-SALTED BUTTER:
(economie.gouv.fr) The amount of salt in butter is not regulated, but professionals have developed a code of practice which sets the salt content in semi-salted butter at 0.8-3 g.
SNAIL BUTTER:
(ref nec) Chop shallots, crush garlic cloves, chop them, chop parsley. Mix with butter, season.
TARRAGON BUTTER:
(ref nec) Blanched and crushed tarragon leaves, butter. Strain through a sieve.
EXTRA FINE BUTTER or FINE BUTTER:
(ref https://www.legifrance.gouv.fr/affichTexteArticle.do;jsessionid=E7FF9922304014AB9546BB9C666A9BA1.tplgfr26s_2 ?idArticle=LEGIARTI000006563634&cidTexte=LEGITEXT000006066374&dateTexte=20190601) These classic butters, with 82% fat content, share the common characteristic of having their cream pasteurized. Extra-fine butter is obtained exclusively from pasteurized cream that has not been frozen. Production must begin no later than 72 hours after the milk or cream is collected, and churning must take place no later than 48 hours after skimming. Fine butter is also made from pasteurized cream, of which the proportion of frozen cream used cannot exceed 30%.
PUFF PASTRY BUTTER:
(invention H. This) Like puff pastry, but the two components are:
- an emulsion of an aqueous solution in butter
- a butter emulsion in an aqueous solution.
Obviously, to maintain the layers' appeal, only two or three turns are needed.
MELTED BUTTER:
(H. This, Nouvelles Gastronomiques) Clarified butter
Fractionated butter:
(ref nec) Unofficial name for preparations based on fractions obtained through "fractional crystallization" (heating followed by successive cooling, which separates triglycerides with different melting points) of butter. Combining these fractions in various proportions allows for the production of fats, possibly emulsified, with a consistency suited to specific uses, such as puff pastry butter, brioche butter, etc.
BUTTER FROM GASCONY:
(ref nec) Garlic cooked in water, crushed with butter, salt, nutmeg, cayenne.
HERRING BUTTER:
(ref nec) Pounded smoked herring fillets, butter. Strain through a sieve.
LOBSTER BUTTER:
(ref nec) Pound the creamy parts, eggs, and lobster coral available. Add an equal weight of butter and strain through a sieve.
MILK BUTTER:
(ref nec) Poached milk, mustard and butter. Strain through a sieve.
BEURRE MANIÉ:
(CNRTL) Softened butter into which flour has been incorporated.
Beurre manié is used to thicken certain sauces. It consists of a mixture of equal parts butter and flour, added to a liquid to bind it.
MAÎTRE D'HÔTEL BUTTER:
(ref nec) Butter with added parsley, salt, pepper, lemon juice
KNEADING BUTTER:
(Inventory of the Culinary Heritage of France, Albin Michel, Paris) Butter kneaded by hand or with a rolling pin to soften it and thus give it more elasticity in order, for example, to incorporate it more easily into a dough or mixture.
BEURRE MANIE:
(Cuis ref) Mixture of softened butter and flour, allowing the correct consistency for a sauce.
BUTTER IN THE STYLE:
(ref nec) Browned butter, with a few drops of lemon juice added when ready. Especially for fish prepared meunière style.
WINE MERCHANT BUTTER:
(ref nec) Reduction of red wine and chopped shallots, meat glaze, lemon juice, chopped parsley and softened butter.
MONTPELLIER BUTTER:
(Lent) { Wash a generous handful of chervil, about twenty sprigs of tarragon, and the same volume of salad burnet, then a pinch of chives, thoroughly in fresh water. Drain these greens and blanch them in boiling salted water to keep them bright green. Place them in a large saucepan, and after five or six minutes of boiling, remove the ravigote with a slotted spoon and cool it in fresh water. In the water it has blanched, hard-boil eight eggs; then press the ravigote firmly to extract the liquid. Pound it thoroughly; add about twenty fine, peeled, and well-washed anchovies, two tablespoons of fine capers, six gherkins, the hard-boiled egg yolks, and a small clove of garlic. Pound this mixture for a good ten minutes; Mix in eight ounces of fine butter, a pinch of coarsely ground pepper, fine salt, and a little grated nutmeg; all well crushed. Combine this with a full glass of good olive oil from Aix and a quarter cup of tarragon vinegar; this should give you a velvety, soft butter with an exquisite taste. But to make it even more appealing, mix in a little essence of spinach leaves (passed through a silk sieve) to color it a beautiful pistachio green. Take care to add this green in small quantities at a time, so that the butter remains a pale green. Taste to see if the seasoning is to your liking; then pass it through a fine cheesecloth or an ordinary horsehair sieve, pressing it with a wooden spoon. After this, place it in a small terrine on ice to firm it up, and use it immediately. }
See https://nouvellesgastronomics.com/terminologie-beurre-de-montpellier-par-herve-this/ r
Whipped butter:
(ref nec) Emulsion obtained by beating butter in an aqueous solution.
FOAMING BUTTER:
(ref nec) Butter is said to be foaming when it bubbles in the pan in which it is cooked. This stage appears quickly during the cooking of the butter, before it is called brown butter and then black butter (just before it burns).
MUSTARD BUTTER:
(ref nec) Softened butter, mustard, season.
Nantes Butter
( https://hervethis.blogspot.com/2024/12/beurre-blanc-beurre-nantais-sauce.html?m=1 ) Synonym of beurre blanc. It is a butter emulsion, and it certainly wasn't invented by someone named Clémence Lefeuvre, since it existed as early as the 17th century, in the book by LSR
BLACK BUTTER:
(ref nec) Black butter is obtained by heating butter in a pan or saucepan until it takes on a dark color in reaction with an acid (and not by exceeding the brown butter stage, as many believe).
BROWN BUTTER:
(ref nec) Preparation obtained by heating butter until the steam bubbles disappear and a light brown color appears.
PAPRIKA BUTTER:
(ref nec) Cook onion in butter, cool, softened butter, paprika, sieve, season.
PIMENTOS BUTTER:
(ref nec) Butter and crushed pimentos passed through a sieve.
PISTACHIO BUTTER:
(ref nec) Shelled and crushed pistachios, butter and pass through a sieve.
RED PEPPER BUTTER:
(ref nec) Finely chop red pepper, cook in butter, puree, add butter, pass through a sieve, season.
POLISH BUTTER, BUTTER IN THE POLISH STYLE:
(ref nec) Cook the butter until it turns a hazelnut brown. Stir in breadcrumbs until a uniform golden color is obtained.
Softened butter or softened butter:
(Cuis ref) Butter worked until it has a soft and smooth consistency.
PROVENCE BUTTER:
[Continuation of the Gifts of Comus, 1742] " To make Provençal butter, you cook twenty or more cloves of garlic, depending on the quantity of butter you wish to make, until three-quarters cooked in water. Once cooked, you let them cool, drain them, and put them in a mortar with salt, pepper, a handful of chopped capers, and a dozen well-washed anchovies with the bones removed. Once everything is chopped and pounded, you mix it with good oil until it is thick. "
SPRING BUTTER:
(ref nec) Vegetable butter used for preparing soups and sauces. Vegetables are stewed in butter and reduced to a syrup if they are carrots or turnips. Other vegetables are blanched. Pound with an equal weight of butter and strain through a sieve.
HORSERADISH BUTTER:
(ref nec) Grated and pounded horseradish, butter and pass through a sieve.
RAVIGOTE BUTTER:
(J. Gouffé, The Cookbook, p. 420) Also called herb butter, or Chivry butter. Butter made with fine herbs (chervil, tarragon, burnet, chive, garden cress) blanched and chopped and incorporated into butter.
SALTED BUTTER:
(economie.gouv.fr) The amount of salt in butter is not regulated, but professionals have developed a code of practice for the designation "salted butter" which sets salt content for the designation "salted butter" above 3 g /100 g.
SMOKED SALMON BUTTER:
(ref nec) Puree smoked salmon, add butter, sieve or blend, season.
DRY BUTTER:
(ref nec) Dry butter is so named because of its higher fat content, 84% compared to 82% for regular butter. More fat means less water, hence the name "dry butter." Firm and light yellow in color, this butter contains a large amount of saturated fatty acids. It is used to make puff pastry, which it lays down more easily.
SPREADABLE BUTTER:
(ref nec) This is a classic butter with 82% fat content, made from pasteurized cream. Four steps have been added to its production to make it softer and spreadable. First, it is melted gently, then slowly cooled while controlling the temperature. The portion that is still soft at a low temperature (the temperature of our refrigerators) is collected and kneaded with regular butter, giving it its smooth texture.
TOMATO BUTTER:
(Cooking Directory) Peeled, pressed tomatoes. Add butter and pass through a sieve.
PASTRY BUTTER:
(President Company) Sometimes called "pastry butter." Dry butter. Pastry butter has the ability to spread evenly without tearing, ensuring a good, even distribution of the butter layer between the different layers of dough, for example, in puff pastry. While the melting point of regular butter is between 28 and 34°C, it is above 34°C for pastry butter. This property is due to the composition of its triglycerides, which contain residual fatty acids.
TRACE BUTTER:
(ref nec) It contains vanillin and other products to prevent it from being confused with fresh butter. Subsidized by the European Union, it is sold at a lower price.
TRUFFLE BUTTER:
(ref nec) Crushed truffles with béchamel sauce. Add butter and strain through a sieve.
BUTTER:
(P. Lacam, New Memorial of Pastry) Said of a mold or baking sheet that is buttered with a brush using melted butter.
(ref nec) To coat a mold, container, parchment paper, or baking sheet with clarified butter, melted butter, or softened butter using a brush, in order to prevent preparations from sticking.
(The Book of the Butcher-Caterer Companion) To work butter using a rolling pin.
BICARBONATE:
(IUPAC) Hydrogen carbonate, with the formula HCO3- (in English, hydrogen carbonate, found in baking soda or bicarbonate of soda, with the sodium ion Na+). Not to be confused with sodium carbonate (formerly "soda"), especially "natron" (see that word).
BICHOF:
(ref nec) Bichof is an ancient drink, prepared with wine, citrus fruits, and spices, which was served hot or iced.
BIODYNAMICS:
(ref nec) Esoteric cultivation method which prohibits the use of herbicides, pesticides and synthetic fertilizers, but which is based on alleged cosmic rhythms.
BIEF:
(ENSMIC) Diversion canal or water reservoir which carries the water towards the mill wheel.
BEERSUPPE:
(Vincent La Chapelle, The Modern Cook)
A soup made with grated bread fried in butter, tossed into beer to which sugar, cinnamon, lime zest, and Rhine wine are added. It is cooked before being thickened with eggs.
It is called {Bierenbroot} in Sweden, and {Boleûte} in Liège, where currants are added.
STEAK:
(TLFi) Slice of beef cooked on the grill or in a pan.
STEAK IN THE SUNSET AND STEAK POINT:
(ref nec) Another name for rump steak in the Bordeaux region.
STEAK IN THE MANTLE:
(ref nec) Another name for the hanger steak in the Lyon region.
STEAK STÜCK VO LAPPE:
(ref nec) Steak steak in Alsace.
BIGARADE:
(TLFi) Variety of bitter orange used in cooking (bigarade sauce, with bigarade), in confectionery, in perfumery, as well as for the manufacture of certain drinks, including curaçao.
BILLIEG, or bilig, or tile:
(ref nec) A billig is a thick circular cast iron plate about forty centimeters in diameter, used to make pancakes and galettes.
BIGA:
(ref nec) Generic term for pre-ferment in Italy. Traditional biga contains water (50-60% of the flour's weight), flour, 1% fresh baker's yeast or 3-2% dried yeast. Fermentation is long (6 to 24 hours).
PERIGORNEAU:
(CNRTL) Small edible shellfish, very common on the coasts of the Ocean.
BILIMBI:
(Hoareau, Guide to Tropical Fruits) Name given to the fruits of the cucumber tree ( Averrhoa bilimbi ). Shaped like a cucumber, it is used in the making of chutneys and pickles.
BILLER:
(CNRTL) To flatten bread dough with a rolling pin called a ball.
BILLOT:
(Tlfi) Section of a log; section of hardwood, cut to a useful height, and used as a support for placing, shaping, cutting, or grinding something. Block of wood used as a work surface, located at a comfortable height.
HORNING:
(Civa) Hoeing, hàcka: Hoeing consists of loosening and aerating the topsoil. It loosens the surface of the soil. Water penetration is facilitated and evaporation by capillary action is also limited. Formerly done manually, hoeing is now mechanized using plows.
BIO:
(H. This) So many false things have been said about organic farming and "organic" in general that we refer to the book { Is it possible to be completely organic? } Editions Quae.
BIORI:
(ref nec) First oatmeal bread introduced in France.
BIS:
(bakery) grey bread because of the bran it contains, it took the name Faitis then Brode bread
BISAILLE
(bakery) Brown bread
BISCÔME
( https://www.patrimoineculinaire.ch/Produit/Biscomes-pains-depices-Lebkuchen-Honiglebkuchen/106 ) Of Swiss origin, a type of flat gingerbread with a semi-hard dough and a spicy flavor. Most common shapes: heart, rectangle, human shape.
BISCOTTE
(Tlfi) Slice of special bread dried and browned in the oven.
BISCOTTERIE:
(boulangerienet) manufacture of rusks, by extension company that manufactures rusks.
BISCOTIN D'AIX:
(IPCF) Specialty of Aix en Provence. Small balls of shortbread dough flavored with orange blossom.
BISCUIT:
(H. This, Gastronomic News) What is a biscuit? Let's tackle this difficult question: what is the difference between a biscuit and a cake? We speak of ladyfingers, for example, which are dry, but also of Joconde sponge cake, which is soft. And why wouldn't this Joconde sponge cake be a cake, like a génoise?
Let's start the wrong way: with a dictionary, such as this Dictionary of the French Academy, which is often inadequate for culinary terms: we read that it is a "very dry, flatbread-shaped bread, with little rise, which prolonged baking ensures a long shelf life," or a "small, dry, and crispy cake," and, finally, a "variety of pastry with a very light leavened dough." There's a lot to unpack there!
Let's consult another "official" dictionary, the digitized Treasury of the French Language : it tells us that it is a baked pastry made from a mixture of flour, eggs, and sugar. That's vague! And what exactly is a "pastry"? The answer: a savory or sweet pastry baked in the oven.
Okay, but we need to look at it more professionally. For official classifications, nothing beats consulting economie.gouv.fr, or resources such as codes of practice. And that's how codes exist for the use of biscuits and cakes, which unfortunately begin by stating that "While it's common to say that biscuits are 'crispy' and cakes are 'soft,' it must be admitted that the distinction isn't always easy. Over the centuries, atypical or intermediate products have developed, defying any attempt at classification and reflecting the creativity that drives pastry making." And so, the French Biscuit & Cake Manufacturers' Association (Syndicat des Fabricants de Biscuits & Gâteaux de France) has compiled a list: boudoir, biscuit, spoon, madeleine, madeleinette, meringue, pound cake, gingerbread, Reims biscuit, pastry biscuit, cookie , lace crepe, Florentine, Breton galette, waffle, wafer, snack or lunch, cat's tongue, macaron, palet, palmier, petit-beurre, shortbread, tuile, Savoy biscuit, brownie, cake, cream puff, financier, sponge cake, petit four, tart, tartlet, Viennese pastry.
What a shame our friends weren't a bit more standardized, better distinguishing between biscuits and cakes.
Let us return, then, to Joseph Favre's Universal Dictionary of Cuisine , which takes a more favorable stance, reminding us that the biscuit, as its name indicates, is "cooked twice": unleavened bread was cooked on a hot stone, and the turned flatbread was thus cooked on both sides. And so, the first biscuit would have been an "unleavened bread," a communion wafer, a ship's biscuit.
Then he distinguishes: “ Biscuits are divided here into four main families, each with its own type, variety, and even derivatives, whose numerous variations all relate to one of the basic types: the thin biscuit; the fire-baked biscuit; the almond biscuit; and the Genoese biscuit.
The first, whose formula is invariable, lends itself to a multitude of types that vary only in flavor and decoration.
The fire-baked biscuit is distinguished in its preparation by the fact that, instead of whipping the egg whites separately, the whole eggs are whipped over a flame that is initially gentle and then gradually increases in temperature. This type also allows for the addition of butter.
The almond biscuit is a type whose varieties include hazelnuts, pistachios, pine nuts, etc.
Finally, the Genoese biscuit, whose dough is used to make fruit entremets and various pastries .”
Before sharing his recipes, let's conclude on the subject of the use of the word "biscuit": yes, a biscuit isn't necessarily dry, and the word's usage has been distorted, with cakes being called biscuits. This usage complicates things for us since we now need to distinguish between specific products. In any case, here are Favre's recipes:
Thin sponge cake (1 kg sugar, 250 g flour, 50 g vanilla sugar, 250 g cornstarch, 20 eggs, salt): Separate the egg whites from the yolks and place the sugar, salt, and yolks in a bowl; mix for twenty minutes. Meanwhile, whisk the egg whites until very stiff and carefully fold them into the mixture; then gradually add the flour, which has been previously mixed with the cornstarch. […] If the batter were baked in two molds, it would take approximately two hours to bake, and if baked in four molds, it could be done in one hour.
Almond Biscuit (Sugar 250g, blanched sweet almonds 230g, bitter almonds 10g, cornflour 200g, brandy 15g, egg yolks 8, beaten egg whites 4, salt) Grind the almonds into a very fine paste; add the salt and sugar; moisten with two egg whites and the brandy. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, add the egg yolks, and work vigorously for ten minutes. Finally, gently fold in the beaten egg whites and cornflour. Bake this batter in various molds.
Almond Biscuit (250g caster sugar, 125g cornflour, 50g sweet almonds, 10g bitter almonds, 15g brandy, salt) Set aside fifteen sweet almonds, separating them in half; grind them, moistening them with a whole egg; place the ground almonds in a bowl with the salt, sugar, a whole egg, and four egg yolks. Mix everything together; meanwhile, whisk the egg whites; combine half the cornflour with the egg whites and the other half with the egg whites, following the rule. Glaze a timbale mold, decorate the inside with the almonds, pressing them onto the base and sides, and carefully pour in the batter. Bake.
Genoise sponge (250g sugar, 250g flour, 250g butter, 6 eggs, grated lemon zest) Place the sugar and slightly softened butter in a bowl and work it together; add four eggs at intervals, one after the other, with a little flour while continuing to work the mixture; add two more egg yolks and whisk the egg whites. Mix everything together and spread the batter onto buttered baking sheets in a thick layer about half a centimeter thick.
Genoese sponge cake cooked over a flame (flour 250g, sugar 250g, butter 250g, eggs 6, salt): Crack the eggs into a bowl, add the sugar, salt, and flour, and whisk over the hot embers. Once the batter has risen, add the melted butter.
Melon Biscuit: Make a sponge cake batter in the Geneva style; butter and glaze two half-melon molds, fill them three-quarters full, and bake in a very moderate oven. Unmold, level the two halves, hollow them out slightly, and fill the hollows with pastry cream; place the two halves on top of each other and glaze the melon with green pistachio ice cream. Create a stem using sugar that has been cracked and pulled.
Rye Biscuit (500g sugar, 125g flour, 25g cornstarch, 125g ground rye breadcrumbs, 25g roasted and ground hazelnuts, zest of 1 orange, 16 eggs): In a bowl, combine the sugar, three whole eggs, thirteen egg yolks, and the orange zest. Mix for twenty minutes. Whisk the egg whites and fold them into the mixture along with the flour, rye breadcrumbs, and the previously mixed hazelnuts. Spread the batter to a thickness of one centimeter onto round, evenly sized baking sheets or a square baking tray. Bake in a moderate oven. Brush with apricot glaze, place another rye biscuit on top, and cut the round or square cake into sticks. It can be brushed with apricot glaze and sprinkled with crushed hazelnuts.
Hedgehog Biscuit: Prepare a sponge cake batter, spread it in an oval, concave mold; bake and let cool. Prepare the following mixture: 4 egg yolks, 25g cocoa powder, 150g sugar, 100g butter. Cook the sugar to the soft ball stage and pour it hot over the egg yolks and cocoa, stirring until the mixture has cooled; mix in the butter. Cut the sponge cake into horizontal slices, fill them with the mixture, and rearrange them. Glaze the cake with chocolate and stud it with flaked almonds. Place it on a fringed dessert napkin, folded over a serving platter.
Turtle Biscuit (500g flour, 500g sugar, 200g cornstarch, 500g butter, 8 eggs, 200g praline almonds, a few drops of coffee essence) Place the eggs and sugar in a bowl. Beat for 15 minutes. Mix the ground praline almonds with the flour and cornstarch, and melt the butter; incorporate the flours, butter, and coffee essence all at once, stirring constantly. Press the batter into oval and concave molds. Bake in a moderate oven; let cool. Slice the cake horizontally and fill with a coffee-flavored cream. Glaze the cake with coffee and pipe royal icing to resemble scales.
Sponge Cake (500g sugar, 500g flour, 250g butter, 16 eggs, lemon zest, 1 glass of rum) In a bowl, combine the sugar and ten egg yolks; mix well and add six whole eggs one at a time, along with a little flour, mixing well after each addition; continue mixing; melt the butter and beat the ten egg whites, then gently fold them into the batter along with the melted butter, taking the usual precautions. This cake is baked in tin trays or paper baking tins.
Financier biscuit (425g sugar, 75g sugar, 200g almonds, 125g butter, 14 eggs): Grind half the almonds and the sugar in a mortar; sift through a fine-mesh sieve; place the egg whites in a bowl and whisk them; when stiff, mix in the ground almonds, sugar, flour, and butter. Butter Savarin molds and sprinkle them with the remaining finely chopped almonds.
Cinderella Biscuit (200g sugar, 200g flour, 100g grated chocolate, 6 eggs, salt) In a bowl, combine the flour, sugar, salt, two egg yolks, and two whole eggs, one after the other, and mix for 15 minutes. Add the remaining four egg yolks and the chocolate. Whisk the egg whites and fold them into the mixture. Bake in paper or tin baking trays. Cut into sticks as soon as they come out of the oven and glaze with chocolate.
Three Brothers Biscuit (500g sugar, 375g rice flour, 400g butter, 60g almonds, 60g diced angelica, 30g maraschino liqueur, 15 eggs, salt) Chop the almonds and sift them through a sieve. Place the eggs, sugar, and salt in a bowl set over a flan ring in a saucepan of simmering water. Whisk regularly until the mixture is frothy. Once frothy, fold in the rice flour, melted butter, and maraschino liqueur. Pour the batter into special molds called Three Brothers molds and bake. Once baked and cooled, glaze with apricot jam and sprinkle with the almonds and angelica. Place the cake on a base of apricot-colored Neapolitan pastry (see that word) and sprinkle with chopped almonds and angelica.
Biscuit on the stovetop (500g sugar, 225g cornstarch, 12 eggs, lemon zest, salt): Place the salt, sugar, zest, and eggs in a bowl and whisk the mixture over hot embers, or better yet, in an improvised bain-marie by placing the bowl over a flan ring in a saucepan of simmering water. When the mixture is frothy, gradually add the cornstarch, mix until smooth, and pour into a mold. Bake in a moderate oven.
Savoy sponge cake (500g sugar, 875g flour, 16 eggs, 1 vanilla bean) In a bowl, combine the sugar, two whole eggs, fourteen egg yolks, and the vanilla bean; mix well. Separately, whisk the egg whites and fold them into the batter, gradually adding the flour. Butter a cake tin with melted butter and drain it. Dust the inside of the tin with cornstarch and fill it three-quarters full. Bake in a moderate oven.
Geneva-style Savoy sponge cake (500g sugar, 250g flour, 25g cornstarch, 12 eggs, zest of 1 lemon) Place the eggs, lemon zest, and sugar in a bowl. Whisk on the edge of the stove or over hot embers; when they have reached a consistent foam, add the flour and cornstarch, which have been mixed together beforehand.
Butter the mold with melted sugar and glaze it with a mixture of cornstarch and icing sugar; fill it three-quarters full and bake as before.
Chestnut Biscuits (350g sugar, 25g vanilla sugar, 300g cooked and peeled chestnuts, 6 egg whites) Pound the chestnuts in a mortar; place them in a bowl, add three egg whites and the sugar; mix. Beat the remaining three egg whites and fold them into the mixture. Spoon or pipe the mixture onto sheets of parchment paper and bake in a warm oven or a baking cabinet. Let them cool and peel off the paper.
Mocha biscuit: Cut a thin biscuit horizontally into three slices, fill with sweetened Chantilly cream flavored with coffee essence; glaze with a mixture of sweetened butter worked into a soft paste. Decorate with the same glaze and keep chilled until ready to serve.
Cussy Biscuit (475g sugar, 25g vanilla sugar, 300g rice flour, 125g butter, 14 eggs) Place the eggs in a bowl with the sugars and whisk over the red ashes, or place the bowl in a saucepan of boiling water. When the mixture is frothy, gradually add the flour and melted butter. Bake in molds in a moderate oven.
Chocolate Biscuit (450g sugar, 125g sugar-free chocolate, 200g cornstarch, vanilla, 10 eggs) Separate the egg yolks from the whites and place the yolks, sugar, vanilla, and chocolate in a bowl and mix well. Whisk the egg whites until stiff peaks form and fold them into the mixture. Pour this batter into flared molds; bake in a moderately warm oven; let cool and glaze with chocolate. Do not confuse this cake with the Chocolate Biscuit, a surprise dessert.
Soufflé biscuit: Whisk two egg whites with a generous amount of royal icing (see this word), and add orange blossom water. Pipe this mixture into Astruc tartlet molds (see this word) and bake in a very moderate oven.
Strawberry Biscuit: Glaze a timbale mold with cornstarch and icing sugar, as indicated in the recipe booklet, and fill it with the same batter. Bake and let cool. Using a sharp knife, completely hollow out the inside and form a circle; cut off the end of the inner piece and place it in its place to form a timbale of the biscuit. Whip very fresh cream, fold in sweetened strawberry purée; fill the biscuit, replace the lid, and glaze it; cover with royal icing to give the biscuit a whiter finish.
Chocolate Biscuit: Bake a plain biscuit in a timbale mold and hollow it out as described in recipe 446 (Strawberry Biscuit). Fill it with vanilla whipped cream, cover, turn the biscuit over, and glaze it with chocolate. Decorate with royal icing using a piping bag and place it on a fringed napkin, folded over a chilled round serving dish.
Cream sponge cake (250g sugar, 125g flour, 8 eggs, 25cl cream) In a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until frothy. Whip the cream and drain it through a sieve. Whisk the egg whites and fold them into the yolk mixture. Then fold in the whipped cream.
Italian sponge cake (250g flour, 500g sugar, 8 eggs, salt). Cook the sugar to the soft ball stage (see this term) with 100ml of water and let it cool slightly. Separate the egg yolks from the whites and whisk the yolks until very stiff. In a bowl, combine the sugar and yolks; mix well and then fold in the flour and egg whites. This should be done gently to avoid deflating the egg whites into a floury paste. Pour this batter into shallow, flared molds.
Russian Biscuit (500g sugar, 500g flour, lemon zest, 7 eggs) In a bowl, combine the sugar, zest, and eggs; whisk until frothy, then add the flour and mix well. Pipe the biscuits using a round or oblong piping bag onto greased and floured baking sheets; sprinkle with sugar by pressing the tip down with your finger. Bake in a moderate oven.
Portuguese Biscuit (500g sugar, 250g cornflour, 200g apricot jam, lemon zest, 1 egg, salt) Place the jam, zest, sugar, and egg yolks in a bowl and mix for 15 minutes. Whisk the egg whites and fold them into the mixture, taking the precautions already mentioned. Pour this batter into shallow, flared tin molds.
Dutch sponge cake (500g sugar, 100g flour, 50g butter, 100g raisins, 25g diced citron, 6 eggs) In a bowl, combine the sugar, flour, six egg yolks, and four whole eggs. Add the yolks one at a time, then the raisins and citron. Mix well and fold in the beaten egg whites. Bake the batter in shallow, flared molds.
Green Biscuit: Make a thin biscuit dough using the proportions of five eggs, add spinach greens or other green vegetables; evenly distribute the color throughout the dough and press it into molds without flattening it too much. Bake, let cool, and glaze with pistachios.
Pink biscuit: Add a drop of cochineal or carmine and a drop of rose essence to the thin biscuit dough. Once the cake is baked and cooled, glaze it with pink icing and decorate.
Pineapple Biscuit: Glaze a plain timbale mold, fill it with thin biscuit batter; bake and let cool; hollow it out into a timbale shape and glaze it with pineapple fondant. Top with whipped cream, flavored and sweetened with reduced pineapple syrup.
Orange biscuit: Prepare a biscuit over low heat flavored with orange zest; when cooked and cooled, glaze it with orange fondant and decorate it with candied orange.
Aniseed Biscuit: Prepare an almond biscuit (see recipe 426) into which 15 grams of crushed aniseed have been mixed. When the biscuit is baked, glaze it with fondant to which aniseed has been added.
Strawberry mousseline biscuit: Glaze a flared mold in the standard way and fill it with thin biscuit dough lightly colored pink, bake it; fill it inside with strawberry puree; cover it with strawberry marmalade and decorate it with whole strawberries, if it is the season.
Tea Biscuits (275g sugar, 25g vanilla sugar, 180g almonds, 8 egg whites) Grind the almonds with the egg whites, adding them in small batches; then add the sugar and mix well. Roll out two strips of sweet pastry and spread the mixture onto them. Bake on baking sheets and cut them as soon as they come out of the oven. Do not confuse these with tea biscuits (see that entry).
Ginger Biscuit (250g sugar, 150g flour, 12g ginger, 11 eggs, orange zest, salt) In a bowl, combine the sugar, salt, zest, ginger, and egg yolks. When the mixture is light and fluffy, fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites. Spread the batter onto parchment paper and sprinkle with granulated sugar. Bake.
Mosaic Biscuit (500g sugar, 300g flour, 12 eggs) Make a biscuit dough following the instructions. Once the dough is ready, color one quarter pink, another quarter green, one quarter chocolate, and leave the remaining portion white. Pour the batters simultaneously into shallow molds to create a marbled effect. Bake in a moderate oven. Let cool slightly and cut before using.
Favre adds: " In England, many dry biscuits are made which vary in name and shape. Most often, these biscuits have the same basic composition and are distinguished only by their shape and name ."
Sea biscuit (250g sugar, 250g flour, 8 eggs) Mix the sugar and eggs in a bowl, then add the flour. Pipe the mixture using a piping bag or a special cutter; prick them or mark them with the house name. Bake in a hot oven.
English biscuit (500g sugar, 180g flour, 8 eggs): Mix the eggs and sugar in a bowl and add the flour. Shape into rounds; prick and bake.
Butter Biscuit (100g sugar, 500g flour, 250g butter, 10g yeast, salt, 160ml milk) Place the flour, salt, and yeast in a bowl; the milk, butter, and sugar in a saucepan; let it cool slightly while you prepare a well in the bowl, that is, make a hollow in the center of the flour, pour in the milk, mix in a soft dough, and let it rest. Knead on a work surface or the table and shape into even rounds; prick them with the tip of a knife; arrange them on a baking sheet and bake in a hot oven. When they come out of the oven, brush them with fresh milk.
York biscuit (2 kg flour, 250 g sugar, 250 g butter, 25 g salt, 500 ml milk) Place the flour on the table and make a well in the center; melt the sugar, salt, and butter in the lukewarm milk, pour this mixture into the well, and mix to form the dough. Let it rest, then roll it out into small squares and decorate them using a small, fluted cutter with the words "York biscuit" engraved in the center. Bake them in a hot oven and glaze them as soon as they come out of the oven by brushing them with milk.
Sponge fingers:
(Gouffé) Prepare a standard sponge cake batter (16 eggs, 500g sugar, salt, 300g flour, separate yolks and whites, sugars and yolks, ribbon, whisk the egg whites to stiff peaks, flour), pipe into 8cm x 2cm rounds, glaze with icing sugar, bake.
(CNRTL) A very light, elongated, dry cake, prepared, in particular, by pouring the batter onto a surface using a spoon. Used for assembling charlottes, tiramisu, etc.
(Darenne and Duval, p. 74. Flammarion) In a bowl, combine 500g of caster sugar with 20 egg yolks and mix well until light and fluffy; add 2 whole eggs and mix again. Then place the 20 egg whites in a copper bowl and whisk until very stiff peaks form. When the egg whites are firm, add 100g of granulated sugar and whisk vigorously. Then, add 500g of sifted flour to the bowl and gently fold it in with a wide spatula, carefully lifting the dough. Next, fold in the egg whites, a little at a time, without overworking the dough, which should remain firm and not collapse. Flavor with vanilla. Pipe the cookies onto a baking sheet or parchment paper using a large piping bag fitted with a wide, plain nozzle. Dust them generously with powdered sugar using a sieve. Let the sugar sit on the cookies for a minute, then quickly remove the excess by turning the sheet or baking sheet upside down. Bake in a moderate oven.
(French Professional Charter for Biscuit and Cake Manufacturers) Egg biscuit, with a soft and airy texture, slightly crisp on the surface, elongated in shape, topped
with icing sugar with or without pearling. The base of the biscuit is flat and the top rounded.
PIEDMONT BISCUIT
(N de Bonnefons) " You must take three fresh eggs which you will beat thoroughly; add half a pound of well-dissolved powdered sugar, continuing to beat, a quarter of wheat flour and a pinch of anise; then pour the batter through a buttered paper funnel, placing the biscuits a little apart because they would run and might stick together. The icing will be made of half sugar and half flour which you sprinkle on top, having first tested the technique of placing them on the paper; then you will give them a very low oven ."
REIMS BISCUIT:
(ref nec) Its distinctive feature, aside from being one of the few biscuits actually baked twice, lies in its rectangular, squat shape and pink color; in the fact that it is made exclusively with fresh eggs; and in its excellent texture when dipped. According to Furetière, in his "Universal Dictionary of 1690," the biscuit is good for dipping in Spanish wine.
(ref nec) The Reims biscuit is a small, light, rectangular, and crisp biscuit, generously dusted with sugar, created at the end of the 18th century by bakers eager to utilize the residual heat of their ovens.
KING'S BISCUIT
(N de Bonnefons) " You must take a pound of sugar, three-quarters of the finest wheat flour, and eight eggs; beat everything in a tin basin with a wooden paddle until the dough whitens into foam, and add some slightly crushed fennel, beating for a long time afterward; then you will pipe it into tin or paper pie dishes of whatever shape you like, which must be buttered lest the dough stick; after which, you will dust them with beaten sugar to make the glaze and give them a very low oven, the oven must have a little more heat than fire; you will test it beforehand lest you make a mistake. If you want it more delicate, you need ten eggs and remove four whites. From this same dough, a little firmer, you can make a loaf three fingers high like one of those large gingerbread loaves from Reims, which being a After a short rest, it is sliced and served at the table. This was the fashion forty years ago, before the Savoy biscuit was invented, and it was called "Pastry Chefs' Bread ."
JOCONDE BISCUIT:
(Larousse G) A biscuit made of flour, sugar, butter, egg yolks, beaten egg whites, and almond flour. Spread in a thin layer, it is used as a base or surround for cakes.
ROYAL BISCUIT:
(The Universal Household, 1733) "Take one pound of sugar, 350 grams of flour and eight eggs; beat everything together until light and fluffy, then put the dough into buttered molds; sprinkle the top with sugar, and bake in a gentle oven."
Savoy Biscuit;
(N. de Bonnefons) " You must take three fresh eggs and beat them thoroughly; add half a pound of finely ground powdered sugar, continuing to beat, a quarter of a pound of wheat flour and a pinch of anise; then pour the batter through a buttered paper funnel [but wider], placing the biscuits a little apart so they don't run and might stick together. The icing will be made of half sugar and half flour, which you sprinkle on top, having first tested it by placing them on the paper; then you put them in a very low oven. After taking it out of the oven, when it is a little cold, you must lift it off the paper and place it on long rollers, so that it is hollow underneath, with the icing on top. You can then stick them on the paper using the funnel or a spoon, in any shape you like, such as roses, hearts, ovals, circles, plates, and others ."
BISQUE:
The (TLFi) indicates "A soup made with a crayfish or other crustacean coulis," but this is insufficient and, above all, incorrect.
Ménage's {Dictionnaire étymologique de la langue française} (1750) states: "Could the word bisque not come from {bis cocta}? What makes me suspect this is that to make a bisque, one first pours broth over the soups, or slices, which are left on the stove until the broth is consumed and the slices are dry; then, at another time, all the broth that must go into it is poured over, and reduced to dry once more; after which, this soup is served; which has become a bisque."
In fact, in Nicolas de Bonnefons ({Les délices de la campagne}, 1754) we find fish bisques as well as pigeon bisques, and it would be more accurate to say that bisques are soups made from "soups" (slices of bread) and a generously garnished liquid (the coulis is therefore only a poor substitute).
H THIS, Gastronomic News:
A bisque? We suspect it's a soup, and that it probably contains shellfish, because we know crayfish bisque, lobster bisque… But can we talk about crab bisque? Fish bisque? And are there veal bisque, or carrot bisque, or mushroom bisque?
The digitized Treasury of the French Language defines bisque as a soup made with a crayfish or other shellfish purée. It's worth reading further… but the etymology isn't clear. The best we find is a reference to the Biscay region, which is indeed near the sea. That's meager!
We have a little more with Ménage's Etymological Dictionary of the French Language (1750), which states: “Doesn't the word bisque come from bis cocta?” What makes me suspect this is that to make a bisque, you first pour broth over the soups, or slices, and leave them on the stove until the broth is consumed and the slices are dry; then, at another stage, you pour in all the broth that should go into it, reducing it to almost nothing again; after which, you serve this soup, which has now become a bisque.
Do you find the preparation complicated? Let's look at Nicolas de Bonnefons's *Delights of the Countryside* (1654); we find pigeon bisques, so the shellfish hypothesis can be dismissed. More precisely, his recipe is: "
Bisque is a very excellent soup composed of several other ingredients, which you use to garnish it. What distinguishes it, particularly from many of those served on stewed bread, is the use of squab." Any cook who can prepare a bisque well and serve it appropriately can consider themselves capable of preparing many other elaborate soups, all of which are simply variations of bisque.
To begin, you will place the smallest of your squabs in pots with the best stock, which you will cook until tender (that is, without breaking apart) with a few cloves and a chive.
You will have another pot containing sweetbreads or veal throats, which you will also cook like the squabs. Then you will combine the contents of both pots so that they acquire a uniform flavor.
You will also have another pot in which you will cook rooster combs and kidneys seasoned to the same taste. The reason I'm having you take three pots is that the small squabs don't cook well because they end up in the bisque, and also that, quite often, rooster combs, when they are old and have been plucked off, harden, and after soaking them well, scalding them afterwards, and cooking them for a long time, there are some that harden instead of softening.which ones need to be sorted and thrown to the dogs.
You'll need to roast a good leg of mutton on a spit (and don't wait until it's fully cooked to take it off the spit). Pierce it all over with a knife, then place it in a dish on a plate to drain the juices. Cover it with another dish and put a cloth over it so that, by smothering it, it dries to the last drop. Some people use small presses, but this method is cleaner, and the meat is less unpleasant for making a simple fricassee. To skim the fat from this juice, let it cool and pour it into another dish, holding a knife against the fat to prevent it from dripping with the juices.
With everything thus arranged, and your meats half-cooked, you will take a silver basin, in which you will simmer a dried loaf of bread, as I described earlier in the section on chickens, when discussing Jacobin-style pottage. You will soak this loaf in your best herb-free broth and attach it to the basin without letting it burn. Then you will place a layer of finely chopped roast chicken or other poultry (provided it is not gamey), from which you will have removed all the bacon or larding. Having first dusted the bread with a pinch of good beaten cinnamon, you will place a few pieces of good beef marrow on top of this mixture, then you will simmer everything again, adding a spoonful of your squab broth and a spoonful of mushrooms, which I assume you will have also prepared and seasoned in a separate pot. Half an hour before serving, arrange your squabs, placing their heads on the edge of the pan, then the sweetbreads, combs, kidneys, and mushrooms around them, arranging them as neatly as possible. Cover your bisque with another pan, returning it to simmer on the stove and adding squab stock if needed.
When it's time to eat, place it over a high flame so that, once very hot, you can skim off the fat by tilting the pan to drain it into another dish. When you're ready to serve it, pour in the leg of lamb jus, which you've heated, adding a touch of lemon juice just enough to give it a hint of acidity, not to sour it. Gently stir the pan to incorporate some of this juice into the bisque. If it is too sweet, you will add a little white salt to this juice before pouring it.
In everything you season, always use a milder approach, as salt is often misused, especially in bisque, because when a large amount of broth is used, the moisture evaporates while the salt remains. Furthermore, people often wait until the rest of the course is ready or until the party intending to eat it is ready to sit down. However, the broth must always be kept simmering. You should also be careful not to run out of fresh broth; otherwise, you would be forced to use common broth, which would spoil everything.
Some people decorate the edges of the basin with lemon slices, placing pistachios and crenada on top. The most elegant thing is to keep it perfectly clean.
In the fat or juice that you will have poured into a dish by degreasing your bisque before adding the leg of lamb juice, you will break eggs into it to cook in the Huguenot style, and a little leg of lamb juice on top.
For his fish bisque:
Fish bisque is made primarily with carp. You will begin by simmering dried bread with the stock from the large pot, then add cooked mince and a little cinnamon powder; next, the roe, carp skins, and peeled crayfish tails (which will have cooked together in a pot with a light stew, a little stock from the large pot, and plenty of butter), which will represent sweetbreads, squab, and cockscombs; seasoned mushrooms are also placed on top along with pistachios. When it is ready to serve, it will be placed over a high coal fire to skim off the fat, and then a juice of crushed crayfish eggs mixed with a little stock and lemon juice will be poured over it. This will take on the color of leg of lamb jus. The pot will be stirred and shaken a little so that the bisque is evenly distributed. Then we will garnish it with everything that best suits it, as well as with the squab bisque.
First conclusion: the modern dictionary is quite limited, listing only crustaceans, and, in any case, our initial uncertainty disappears: one can make bisque from whatever one wants, and Ménage's approach seems more sensible.
In recent times, it is true that a coulis is used for bisques, but what is a coulis? A concentrated preparation obtained by slowly cooking food (vegetables, fish, meat), which is then pounded and finely strained. In 1877, Jules Besset wrote the following in *L'art culinaire*, p. 50: "A word more on sauces or coulis. Their culinary formula is as follows: a fat, a binding agent, a flavoring agent. The fat serves first, as we have seen, to extract some of the aromas from the ingredients placed in the pan, meat or vegetables; then to cook the elements that will make up the dish." The fats used are lard, oil, butter, bacon fat, vegetable shortening, etc. The flavoring agent, as its name suggests, provides the aroma. One doesn't use just one; if several are used, one will dominate, and that is the one that gives the sauce its name. The main flavoring agents are all vegetables, mushrooms, truffles, Madeira wine, rum, lemon, orange, etc. The binding agent binds together all the loose particles in the sauce. It is what gives coulis their velvety texture. It is diluted cold with a little sauce, then added to the pan. The main binding agents are: flour (wheat, rice), potato starch, egg yolk, milk, etc.
Thus, a coulis must be thickened, undoubtedly more liquid than a sauce, and it would be a good idea to use such a coulis for double cooking, as described by Ménage! For I don't believe it's a good idea to confuse soups with consommés, or coulis with bisques!
Hervé This
BISTORTIER:
(CNRTL) A fluted knife used for turning fruits and vegetables. (Do not confuse with the bistortier, a type of pestle used by pharmacists to grind herbal preparations.)
BISTRONOMY:
( https://hospitalityinsights.ehl.edu/fr/bistronomique-definition ) A culinary movement that dates back to the early 1990s, when chef Yves Camdeborde began serving modern and refined cuisine in a bistro (see this word): classic recipes are modernized.
This movement was named "bistronomy" (a contraction of bistro and gastronomy) by food journalist Sébastien Demorand in 2004.
BISTROT:
(Ref: TLFi) Small café, small, friendly, and modest restaurant.
ETYMOLOGY AND HISTORY: 1884, colloquial slang, bistro "innkeeper" (G. MOREAU, Souvenirs de la Petite et de la Grande Roquette, vol. 2, p. 3); 1892, bistrot (TIMM.); hence the feminine bistrote [1914 according to ESN, without attestation]; 1919, supra ex. 4.
Origin obscure; related to the Poitevin word bistraud "small servant," of uncertain origin. (cf. FEW t. 22, 2, p. 61a; see also ESN., sv. bistaud) if we assume that the word initially designated the wine merchant's assistant, rather than being related to bistingo "cabaret" 1845 (RAISSON, Une Sombre histoire, I, 40 in Fr. mod., t. 19, 1951, p. 203), bustingue (with a shell?) "hotel where gypsies sleep" 1848 (A. PIERRE, Arg. et jargon, ibid.) and bistringue, bastringue*, all of obscure origin; the hypothesis that sees in the word an adaptation of the Russian bistro "quickly" dating back to the thirsty Cossacks occupying Paris in 1814 is not sufficiently substantiated. The final -t which allows the feminine. bistrote (cf. supra prononc. et orth.) is due to the numerous French words in -ot with affective value (cf. NYROP t. 3, § 287-291).
RUSSIAN-STYLE BITOCKS:
(Cooking Directory, Gringoire and Saulnier): Raw beef, with breadcrumbs soaked in milk and squeezed dry, chopped onion sautéed in butter, and raw egg (if necessary). Season. Shape into a flattened round, tournedos-sized. Sauté in clarified butter. Coat with Smitane sauce (chopped onions sautéed in butter until golden brown). Moisten with light sour cream, and cook for 20 to 25 minutes (the cream thickens as it cooks). Strain. Finish with a few drops of Cabul sauce (or mogul sauce), somewhat similar to Worcestershire sauce.
BISTOURNAGE:
(ref nec) An old technique for testicular castration of a slaughter animal, by twisting the testicular cord, resulting in a cessation of blood circulation.
BISTRONOMY
(ref nec) A culinary movement that dates back to the early 1990s, when chef Yves Camdeborde began serving modern and refined cuisine in a bistro.
Russian Bitocks
(Cooking Directory, Gringoire and Saulnier): Raw beef, with breadcrumbs soaked in milk and squeezed dry, chopped onion sautéed in butter, and raw egg (if necessary). Season. Shape.
WHITE:
(ref nec) Blind baking: a method of baking a crust (pies, tartlets) without filling. Often, the crust is filled with raw dried beans or clean pebbles, which are removed after baking.
A mixture of flour and cold water added to boiling lemon water, used for cooking certain vegetables and white offal (artichoke bottoms, calf's feet and head). The cooking vessel is coated with a thin layer of oil and parchment paper.
(boulangerienet) In Quebec, bread made with white flour, as opposed to brown bread
BLANC DE BLANCS:
(ref nec) Refers to a white wine made exclusively from white grapes with white flesh.
WHITE GUM:
(L. Bromberger, Paris Bistro) mixture of white wine and sugar syrup
WHITE THROAT:
(The butcher-caterer's companion's book) Flat muscle, of white meat, located in the throat.
WHITE LIME:
(L.Bromberger, Paris Bistro) white wine and lemonade.
BLANC DE NOIRS:
(ref nec) Refers to a white wine made from red or black grapes with white flesh.
COOKING WHITE:
(ref nec) Mixture of water, flour, lemon juice (or white vinegar) which is supposed to keep certain ingredients very white when cooked at a boil.
WHITE THROAT:
(ref nec) Flat muscle, of white meat, located in the throat.
BLANC-MANGER:
(Pierre François La Varenne) Dessert prepared from jelly, crushed almonds, milk.
STEAMED WHITE:
(ref nec) Steamed egg whites.
BLANCHAILLE:
(TLFi) Small fry, small white fish used as bait or eaten fried.
WHITE:
(ref nec) Refers to a beer that contains wheat, or even oats.
BLANCHE D'ARMAGNAC:
(IPCF) Original brandy straight from the still. Legislation prohibits this product from being called Armagnac since it is not aged in oak barrels.
BLANCHETTE:
(ref nec) Another name for mâche (lamb's lettuce).
(ref nec) Sea bean. (Flat, elongated marine bivalve mollusk, striped purple and brown, edible). Lives at the seashore under a few centimeters of sand.
BLANCHING VEGETABLES:
(ref nec) At the end of the 19th century, some cooks and gourmets, obsessed with grammatical perfection, decided that the term "blanch" (for a vegetable) was an insult to good taste: it would have been unreasonable to use the same verb to bleach a cloth and a vegetable. Therefore, with the help of a member of the French Academy, they introduced the term blanchinglégumage, the act of blanchinglégumer, that is, immersing green vegetables in boiling water. The proposal was not successful.
BLANCHING:
(ref nec) Refers to three different operations:
- subjecting raw foods to boiling water, plain, salted, or vinegared, then refreshing and draining them, or simply draining them, before actually cooking them; this operation inactivates various enzymes that could impair color or taste
- working a mixture of egg yolks and sugar until it becomes frothy, clear, smooth, and forms a ribbon
- plunging certain potato preparations into a first bath of deep frying to obtain cooking without browning. The crispness and color are then obtained in a second, hotter bath.
(P. Lacam, New Memorial of Pastry) Almonds are blanched by throwing them into boiling water, and sugar is blanched by working it with egg yolks.
BLANQUETTE:
(TLFi)
A variety of white grape; by metonymy, a sparkling white wine made from this grape.
The product (silvery white in color) of the first distillation of brandy.
A white meat stew (veal, chicken, lamb, etc.) in a white sauce.
(ref nec) A white meat stew (lamb, veal, poultry, or fish) thickened with egg yolks and cream, garnished with pearl onions and mushrooms. Blanquette is often made with equal-sized pieces from the neck, shoulder, flank, brisket, and breast.
(Hervé This)
Let's start with a professional dictionary: Joseph Favre's, which dates from 1905. It contains a veal blanquette, made from veal cut into cubes and soaked in cold water; the cubes are blanched in a water-based stock, cooled, then cooked in water and white wine, with carrots, a studded onion, a bunch of parsley, and a clove of garlic. A white roux is added, along with egg yolks, butter, and lemon juice. It is served with glazed pearl onions, and "the addition of mushrooms and hard-boiled eggs is optional."
It's a good starting point, but it doesn't tell us the origin of the recipe, nor does it tell us if Favre's description is accurate: after all, he provides no references!
A little before him, Urbain Dubois, a student of Marie Antoine Carême, gave more precise instructions regarding the soaking process (several hours), even if his recipe was often flawed: for example, he suggested cutting the meat into squares, when it should be cubed, and he proposed boiling the meat, which toughens it, whereas it is better to simply simmer it, and for a long time, in order to make it tender. Then he sautéed an onion, diced the meat, and thickened the cooking liquid, finally adding parsley, bay leaf, mushroom trimmings, peppercorns, and cloves; then he reduced the sauce separately, thickened it with egg yolk, and finished with nutmeg, chopped parsley, and the juice of one lemon.
Around the same time, Jules Gouffé distinguished between a simple blanquette and a more elaborate one, but the recipe was essentially the same. Let's go back to 1806, where we find a "Veal Blanquette with Mushrooms," the title of which indicates that the blanquette doesn't include mushrooms, but that they can be added, provided they are specified. However, the recipe itself is the same.
And the oldest one? In the Dons de Comus, in 1742, we find veal blanquette, but also pork or rabbit blanquette, proof that blanquette is a generic recipe, and an indication that the term "veal blanquette" is required if the recipe is made with veal. Then, a few years earlier, in Le Cuisinier moderne, published in 1735 by Vincent La Chapelle, we find the following recipe:
“Take a large piece of cold roast veal loin and cut it into small slices; put a piece of butter in a saucepan on the stove: once melted, add a pinch of flour and cook it for a moment, then add some chives; next, add the veal, season it with salt and pepper, and turn it over two or three times, then moisten it with a little stock and let it simmer for three or four minutes; then, thicken it with a mixture of three or four egg yolks, cream, and a little chopped parsley, stirring constantly over the heat, lest it curdle: once thickened, check that it tastes good, then arrange it on a platter and serve it hot.”
In other words, our modern recipe is a distorted interpretation of a meat dish, thickened with flour and egg yolks, and with the addition of good cream. Mushrooms, lemon, wine are only interpretations, not obligations.
BLATIER, or BLAVETIER:
(TLFi) Wheat or grain merchant.
WHEAT:
(TLFi) Annual cereal, of the grass family, with a compound ear, containing the grains, which, when ground, give the flour used to make bread.
PLUMP WHEAT:
(ref nec) This is the name given to wheat that is large, yellow, and light, and which yields a lot of bran during milling. The flour produced is less abundant and of lower quality.()
DURUM WHEAT
(ref nec) Wheat grown mainly in Europe, North America and the Middle East. Rich in gluten, it is used to produce semolina and pasta.
STEAMED WHEAT:
(ref nec) That is, wheat that has been dried in a steam oven to improve its preservation. It yields less flour, but because it is milled economically, it yields more flour than ordinary wheat; this flour also absorbs more water.
GLACÉ WHEAT:
(ref nec) This is a wheat with short grains and a thin husk that is more gray than yellow. It is heavy, yields a lot of flour, and little bran. Wheat sown in March in stony soils, known as grouettes, produces many grains of this type. It is the most sought-after by millers and bakers.
GROUETTES WHEAT:
(Glossary of Mills and Millers; Panckoucke Encyclopedia) Good wheat, which is grey, glazed, and full-bodied. It is a wheat that is harvested in stony soils, called grouettes.
MALTED WHEAT:
(the little baker) This is wheat that has germinated and been milled. This wheat is therefore rich in amylase enzymes.
RINGING WHEAT:
(Glossary of Mills and Millers; Panckoucke Encyclopedia) This term applies to all grains used to make flour and bread. It refers to dry, elongated grains that have been sunburned or shriveled by the sun's heat, when the grain is shriveled, and which have absorbed little or no nourishment. They are commonly found at the top of the ears. Lodging wheat also yields a great deal of them. They are called ringing wheat because they produce a lot of bran but very little flour.
SOFT WHEAT:
(ref nec) Or common wheat ({Triticum aestivum}) mainly grown in mid-latitudes (China, India, USA, Russia, France, Canada, Germany) It is grown to produce bread flour.
STIFF WHEAT
(Glossary of Mills and Millers; Panckoucke Encyclopedia) This is a hard wheat to grind, and its flour requires more work to absorb water and bake well. It makes better bread than oily and bloated wheats. Newly marled lands and small fields yield the most. This term also applies to wheat, rye, and barley.
BLEDS
(ref nec) All cereals cultivated in Europe.
BLENDER:
(mixology) Hand blender, electric equipment used for all Frozen/Smoothies/Milk-Shake type drinks which are made in a blender; technique consisting of mixing all types of creamy liquids, crushing all types of solid ingredients (ice cubes, nuts, cookies, hard fruits, ...) and aerating the device to obtain a homogeneous, smooth, creamy and fresh mixture.
BLET
(Dir Ac Fr) When speaking of fruits. Whose flesh has softened, without yet being spoiled.
BLETISSEMENT:
(CNRTL) Fruit that becomes overripe. Advanced ripeness. The bletting or bletissement of certain fruits is "the physiological change due to excessive ripeness resulting in softening, a brownish color, and an abnormal loss of flavor in the pulp." The fruit is then said to be overripe.
BLUE (AU):
For pike, trout, and other fish: pour boiling wine or vinegar + salt + onion + pepper over them, and cook in a court-bouillon.
For more on this:
Regarding "au bleu": the interpretation must be accurate, otherwise it must be named differently.
Hervé This, Nouvelles Gastronomiques, October 2022
Several years ago, I took on a food manufacturer because he dared to sell a dehydrated preparation under the name "Béarnaise" that bore no resemblance to what we understand by the name "Béarnaise" today. Using cheap ingredients, he made a cheap sauce, and I considered it very unfair—let's be clear: dishonest—that he would misappropriate a word to the detriment of "consumers."
Furthermore, I want to emphasize this point: the word "unfair" is the opposite of the word "fair," which is enshrined in the 1905 law on food trade: marketed products must be marketable, fair, and wholesome. An unshakeable three-pronged approach! And, moreover, I put the word "consumer" in quotation marks earlier because I detest the very idea of "consuming." I therefore prefer to speak of citizens, and I strive to help my fellow citizens cook and eat like good citizens, that is, to be concerned about the human community, the Earth that sustains us, and so on.
But let's return to the question I want to address here: that of the "interpretation" of classic recipes. And, to make myself clearer, let's compare it to music. Mozart composed music with a certain tempo, a certain speed of execution; he gave instructions on the force with which the notes should be played, the places in the text where a pause should be made, etc. And I firmly declare that one must do what he said… otherwise, one betrays the author, one creates an unfaithful (a dreadful word), treacherous, dishonest, disloyal version. And that's why I hate musicians who allow themselves to show off their dexterity (moving their fingers quickly is silly, because a machine does it better), or their "personal interpretations." Because Mozart, in composing, constructed his music, and nothing is left to chance. Playing too fast, phrasing the music poorly, etc., is like reading a text and cutting off a sentence in the wrong place: just as you don't breathe between "Beat the" and "Whip the egg whites," it would be silly to pause where you shouldn't.
And in cooking? In cooking, the same question arises. But to avoid being overly theoretical, I propose we discuss this in relation to cooking fish "au bleu." We all feel we know what that means: you pour boiling vinegar over a fish, such as a trout, and it turns blue. That is an "interpretation", and a perfectly naive one, because it is based only on a vague, idiosyncratic personal feeling.
And that's precisely one of the aims of these terminology posts: to try to understand how well or poorly we execute classic recipes. Hence my suggestion a few months ago, which consisted—and still consists—of using the term given by the first person to introduce a given recipe. "
Au bleu"? Let's take a look, as is often the case with these terminology posts, starting with the most recent books and working our way back to the oldest.
For the most recent ones, let's forget Wikipedia, which I'm going to revise because the entry is so inadequate, and start with the standard dictionary (the CNRTL or the Dictionary of the French Academy), which tells us, "A method of cooking certain fish in boiling vinegared court-bouillon, their black skin thus taking on a bluish tint": it's quite a misunderstanding of cooking to think that the skin of a trout is black, isn't it? And besides, the practice described here doesn't correspond to what's actually done in kitchens. Finally, the dictionary gives no reference to this definition. Let's forget it!
Let's turn to the Larousse Gastronomique, which has the merit of having been compiled by experts, if not historians. There we find: "Said of the cooking of a fish (trout,
carp, or pike) plunged, if not alive, at least rigorously fresh, into a vinegared, salted, and flavored court-bouillon. The trout's body turns blue and takes on a characteristic arched position."
Well, that's better, but is it accurate? Often, this dictionary refers to the Guide Culinaire, which states:
"The term 'au bleu' indicates a special treatment, applicable equally to trout, carp, and pike, and which is based on the observation of the following principles:
1. The fish, whatever it may be, prepared in this way must be alive."
2. It must be gutted while handling it as little as possible—so as not to remove the slime that surrounds it—and cooked without being scaled.
3. Larger pieces are placed on the fish steamer rack and poured over boiling vinegar, the amount that would normally be used in the court-bouillon. The court-bouillon is then poured, lukewarm, over the fish to minimize the bursting of the flesh, and the cooking is carried out as usual.
4. Small trout intended to be poached in blue cheese sauce must be taken live, quickly gutted, and placed in a court-bouillon that has simply been salted and vinegared, and is boiling. 5. Fish poached in blue cheese sauce
can be served either hot or cold, with the accompaniments indicated in their respective descriptions.
Here, a live fish is required, for one thing, and the "blue" method would be used for trout, carp, and pike, with the court-bouillon poured lukewarm over the fish. This is much more precise, but is it accurate? One must be absolutely wary of this book, which, with terrible audacity, has propagated a great many errors. Let's consult, then, Joseph Favre's Universal Dictionary of Cuisine from the same period:
"BLUE, n.m. (to cook in). — Method of cooking certain fish. Court-bouillon in which wine or vinegar has been added and in which the fish is cooked, giving it a bluish tint. The court-bouillon must be cooked in advance; when it is boiling, the gutted, live fish is thrown in, and it immediately turns blue.
When the fish is not very fresh, an artificial method is used to make it blue, which consists of macerating it for five minutes in vinegar, and then plunging it into the boiling court-bouillon." Fish without scales, such as trout, grayling, etc., are preferably prepared in court-bouillon au bleu.
The court-bouillon au bleu contains only salt, lemon, vinegar, and crushed pepper, the amount of which is adjusted according to the type of fish, its condition, age, or the taste of the diner.”
Here Favre provides technical details and mentions wine as an alternative to vinegar. The fish is thrown into the court-bouillon instead of the court-bouillon being poured over the fish, and the court-bouillon would be limited to salt, lemon, vinegar, and pepper. Even so, the text is a bit confusing. Let's continue with Urbain Dubois, a student of the great Marie-Antoine Carême:
“638. — Carp au bleu. Dress a fine river carp, truss its head, fill its belly with ordinary stuffing; place the fish on the rack of a fish kettle, moisten it, covered, with a red wine court-bouillon; bring the liquid to a boil; At the first boil, remove it to the corner of the stove, cover it to maintain the same temperature, but without boiling; 1 hour later, drain the carp, slide it onto a platter covered with a towel, resting it belly-first; untie it, surround it with raw double parsley leaves, as well as crayfish cooked in court-bouillon, with their tails peeled. Skewer three small skewers topped with crayfish or large prawns. Serve separately a Bordelaise sauce and boiled potatoes. — The dish is placed on a warming rack.”
It's amusing to see how different and much more precise this is. For one thing, the carp is stuffed, but, above all, there's no vinegar involved! And the required sauce is Bordelaise. Following this line of thought, let's continue in 1873, with Alexandre Dumas who, although not a professional cook, was as much a gourmand as a cook:
"Carp cooked in blue cheese or in court bouillon."
Take a carp and gut it carefully, without opening its belly too much, without piercing the bitter part, and without damaging its scales; remove its gills gently so as not to spoil the tongue, boil half a pint of red wine vinegar and pour it over your carp, placed in a fish kettle of the same size; then moisten it with hot coals, cover it with buttered parchment paper and cook it over low heat, drain it when cooked, place it on a napkin spread on the platter, surround it with parsley and serve.”
Here, we return to vinegar, but red wine vinegar, and we pour it over the fish. But, as mentioned, Dumas wasn't a professional. Especially since he contradicts himself by also writing: “Court-bouillons called ‘au bleu’ consist of using boiling wine in which the fish is placed to give it a beautiful bluish color.” Make up your mind!
Let's go back to 1806, to André Viart, who created a Royal Cookbook and an Imperial Cookbook, depending on the era. He describes salmon cooked in a blue sauce, which involves gutting the salmon (without cutting its belly), placing it in a fish kettle with wine, carrots, sliced onions, cloves, bay leaf, thyme, salt, and parsley. It's simmered for two hours (yes, two hours!) and served with a sauce made from a roux, court-bouillon, or light fish or veal stock; a reduction is followed by the addition of pepper, cornichons, anchovies, capers, or candied nasturtiums. Again, wine, and not vinegar… but he wasn't the first, since François Massialot, in 1705, suggested pouring boiling vinegar over the fish with salt, onions, and pepper. Let us continue our investigation and come to Nicolas de Bonnefons, who, in 1654, in his *Delights of the Countryside*, wrote: “You must cut open their bellies along their entire length and wash them well to remove all the blood, dry them a little, place them on a platter, sprinkle them with plenty of salt, and gently pour good vinegar over them. This gives them an azure blue, which is very pleasing to the eye. Then put the court-bouillon on the stove and bring it to a gentle boil. When the spirit of wine catches fire, add your pike to it with a good piece of butter, cook them quickly, and let them rest in their court-bouillon, for otherwise they will become mushy, which is very unpleasant.” And further on, “To achieve the blue color, which is also used for carp, you will observe that if the fish is alive, it takes on a much more beautiful blue than a dead one, which, because of its dry scales, must have the vinegar warmed.”
And that's the final word, because I can't find any earlier mention of cooking "au bleu" (in a blue wine sauce). Therefore, any other method must be named differently, because it doesn't fit the "definition." So, it remains to be seen what, for Bonnefons, constitutes a court-bouillon, and we find the definition: "ordinary court-bouillon, made with white wine, verjuice, vinegar, a little water, salt, spices, pieces of lemon, onion, and a little bit of herbs and bay leaf."
Bleu d'Auvergne:
(ref nec) This is a blue cheese made from cow's milk, covered with a natural bloomy rind. It is produced in the Puy-de-Dôme region by GAEC Croix de Chazelles. It contains a minimum of 28% fat. Molded into a flat cylinder, 8 to 10 cm high and 20 cm in diameter, it weighs 2 to 3 kg. It is sold wrapped in aluminum foil.
BLEU DES CAUSSES:
(ref nec) A blue cheese made from whole cow's milk with a natural rind. It is presented as a flat cylinder weighing 2 to 3 kg and contains at least 29% fat in dry matter.
For centuries, artisanal dairies and cheese-making facilities existed throughout the Causses region. It is in this land of moors and rocky terrain, with its harsh and contrasting climate, that Bleu des Causses was born. The milk is enriched by the aroma of the wild plants that grow there. Initially named Bleu de l'Aveyron, it took its definitive name in 1941 and received its AOC (Protected Designation of Origin) in 1991.
BLEU DE GEX (or BLEU DU HAUT-JURA, or SEPTMONCEL):
(ref nec) This is a raw cow's milk, blue-veined cheese made without rennet or cooking. The cheeses are presented in the form of a wheel, weighing approximately 7.5 kg. Its fat content is at least 29% of the finished product.
Bleu de Sassenage:
(Confrérie du Bleu de Sassenage) Bleu du Vercors-Sassenage, formerly Bleu du Vercors or Bleu de Sassenage, is a blue cheese from the Rhône-Alpes region made with cow's milk. Its name comes from the Vercors mountain range and the town of Sassenage located at its foot. It has held the official AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) label since July 30, 1998, and the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) of the European Community since March 15, 2001. Its best time to enjoy it is from June to November.
BLEU DE TERMIGNON:
(Androuet) Cheese made with raw milk from Savoyard cows, Tarine and Abondance breeds, which graze on the herbs and flowers of the Vannoise Regional Natural Park. This
cheese, with no protected designation of origin, is a farm-produced mountain cheese made in very small quantities in the upper Maurienne valley.
BLIMA:
(bakery) Greek word to designate ground grain.
BLINI
(ref nec) The blini is a small, thick, savory pancake made from a leavened batter combining, in principle, wheat flour and buckwheat flour.
BLOND DE VEAU:
(TLIF) Name by which we designate or at least formerly designated the blond veal coulis.
Juice obtained by reducing the meat mixed with butter, onions, melted bacon, carrots and bouquet garni, moistened with stock and cooked gently.
BLONDE D'AQUITAINE:
(ref nec) The Blonde d'Aquitaine is a beef breed of cattle with a blonde coat, produced in southwestern France and in the Pays de la Loire and Poitou-Charentes regions. This breed is prized for its flavorful red meat; it offers good carcass yield (due to its fine skeleton) and a very fine grain of meat.
CARINTHIAN BLONDE:
(ref nec) The Carinthian Blonde, or Kärntner Blondvieh, is an Austrian cattle breed. It nearly became extinct in the 1970s and was saved thanks to an action plan by Arche Austria. It originates from Carinthia. A possible origin for this blonde breed, in the land of red and brown cattle, could be Spanish.
TO BLOND:
(TLFi) Refers to the process of lightly browning any substance in butter, oil, or any other fat. One also speaks of browning a mixture of flour and butter, which constitutes a blond roux.
BLOOM:
(ref nec) A unit of measurement indicating the strength of a gelatin. The higher the bloom number, the firmer the gelatin gel, assuming equal proportions of water and gelatin.
The Bloom number, or Bloom index, expresses the strength or resistance to indentation of a jelly, gel, or gelatin solution. It was formulated by Oscar T. Bloom, inventor of the "gelometer," in 1925.
It measures the force required to indent a 12.5 mm diameter cylinder 4 mm into a 6.67% concentrated solution in pure water, stored at 10°C for 16 to 18 hours. If the force to be applied is 50 g, the Bloom strength is 50. Commercial products intended for making reconstituted gelatin indicate this value, which ranges from 50 to 300. With unequal Bloom strengths, a variable proportion of water must be added to obtain an equivalent strength. Thus, 12 g of gelatin at 200 Bloom is equivalent to 13 to 14 g of gelatin at 130 Bloom.
The Bloom strength of a gelatin solution is higher when it has been obtained at a lower temperature. Its melting point is also higher. The addition of "plasticizers" based on hydroxylated compounds such as sorbitol or other polyols increases the water resistance of a gelatin film, while decreasing its cohesive strength.
BLOOMILIOS:
(bakery) In Greek, checkered bread.
SET:
(ref nec) Sudden change from a pasty consistency to a solid consistency.
This phenomenon is observed when an aqueous solution is added to melted chocolate.
(ref nec) Set in the cold (also called "set in the deep freezer"): Rapidly solidify a preparation in sub-zero temperatures (i.e., below 0°C).
BLOQUET:
(ref nec) Intermediate piece allowing to compensate for differences in height of bottles and used in particular on corking and wire-capping machines.
BLISTERING:
(TLFi) Action of sifting powdery products, in particular flour; result of this action.
BLUTER
(Tlfi) Separate the flour from the bran.
BLUTEUR:
(boulangerienet) Second stage of the four years of apprenticeship required for an apprentice to become a baker.
BLUTOIR:
(TLFi) Device used for sifting or screening various previously crushed materials
BLUTWURSCHT:
See “Alsace pudding”.
JAR:
(ref nec) A jar is a container with a wide neck, hermetically sealed with a screwed metal lid or a glass lid fitted with a rubber seal and held by a metal clip.
BEEF:
(ref nec) In butchery, the term "beef" applies to the meat of all large cattle: heifer, cow, steer and steer, bull and bull calf of the Bovidae family. The working ox, a castrated male made docile, has practically disappeared.
BEEF BOURGUIGNON:
(ref nec) The origin of this name is self-evident. Beef Bourguignon is a dish that combines two emblematic products of Burgundy: beef raised in the Charolais region, and the wine of which this region is particularly rich. Beef Bourguignon is a traditional beef stew from Burgundian cuisine, cooked in red Burgundy wine and garnished with mushrooms, pearl onions, and bacon. Variations on the garnish include, for example, carrots.
Galician Beef:
(ref nec) Galician beef (Spanish: Rubbia gallega, French: Rousse or Blonde de Galice, Basque: txogitxu) is a Galician (Spanish) breed of cattle.
Origin of Galician beef: belonging to the Blonde d'Aquitaine branch, it is a Galician-Spanish cousin of the Blonde d'Aquitaine. According to the breeders' association, it arrived with the Gaelic people, a Celtic group, from France. During the invasions, the livestock in this mountainous region was largely unaffected and built a reputation as working and beef cattle. It is raised in Galicia, where it still represents the majority of the cattle herd today.
KOBE BEEF:
(ref nec) Japanese beef breed, one of the most refined and prized in Japan, along with Matsusaka and Olmi beef. To obtain the "Kobe" label, breeders must adhere to very strict breeding conditions (massage, classical music, and the addition of beer to the water).
MATSUSAKA BEEF:
(ref nec) Japanese black beef, also known as kuroge washu or Japanese Black, originates from the Matsusaka region in Mie Prefecture, Japan. It is one of the most renowned beefs in Japan. Its distinguishing characteristic is its high fat-to-meat ratio.
BEEF A LA MODE:
(PF La Varenne) pound, lard, cook with stock, bouquet garni, spices
(J. Gouffé) {“ Have 2 kilos of beef sirloin cut into squares. You can also use the shank; this cut is less dry than the sirloin, and can sometimes be preferred to it to advantage. Have 3 hectoliters of fatty bacon, remove the rind, which you set aside to blanch. Cut the bacon into 1-centimeter square lardons and sprinkle with pepper. Pierce the meat with string; tie it as for pot-au-feu. Put the piece of beef in the pot with: 5 deciliters of white wine, 1 deciliter of brandy, 6 deciliters of stock, 6 deciliters of water, 2 veal feet that you have boned and blanched, the bacon rind also blanched. Put on the heat, and add 30 grams of salt. Bring to a boil, then skim off any foam as you would for a pot-au-feu. After skimming, add 500 grams of carrots, 1 onion, 3 cloves, 1 bouquet garni, and 2 pinches of peppercorns. Place the pot on the edge of the stove, cover, and simmer gently for 4 1/2 hours. Test for doneness with a trussing needle. When the beef is cooked, place it on a platter with the carrots and veal feet. Keep warm, well covered, until ready to serve. Strain the cooking liquid through a fine-mesh sieve. Skim off any fat and reduce by a quarter. Untie the beef and place it on the platter. Add the veal feet, cut into 8 pieces each; the carrots, cut into cork-sized pieces; and 10 glazed onions. Arrange the veal feet, onions, and carrots around the beef, mixing them in without disturbing the symmetry. Pour the sauce over the meat in the dish and reserve the excess for the next day. Always taste to ensure the seasoning is correct. Beef à la mode should be flavorful. Sometimes a clove of garlic is added; I mention this not as essential, but it is always wise to obtain the hostess's approval.
BOF:
(ref nec) Acronym for "Butter Eggs Cheese", an expression that referred to war profiteers during the black market era in the last world war.
BOGNETTE, or BOUGNETTE or BEUNTEU:
(Haute Savoie) Potatoes
GOHEMIAN:
(TLFi) In the style of the Gypsies
(ref nec) A traditional dish from the Comtat Venaissin region; it consists of equal quantities of tomatoes and eggplants sautéed in olive oil with onion, aromatic herbs, and garlic. Sometimes anchovy fillets are added to this mixture, which can be eaten hot or cold and is a good accompaniment to cold meats.
BOICHET:
(gingerbread, published by Coq à l'Âne) Or medieval gingerbread. A type of pastry made with wheat flour and honey.
DRINKING AT THE STIRRUP:
(P. Ribereau-Gayon) Drinking a glass of wine when one is about to leave.
BAKING WOOD
(bakery) wood used to heat the bread oven
CRISPY BOOD:
(Inventory of France's culinary heritage) A confection presented in the shape of a log, made of caramelized cooked sugar, handcrafted. Golden in color, it offers a flaky, melt-in-your-mouth texture with a caramel flavor.
BOIS D'AINDE:
(P. Bourgeois) Bay rum is a tree about 10 to 20 meters tall, with fragrant flowers and elongated leaves. It is native to the West Indies and Central America. Also called "four spices," its flavor is reminiscent of a mixture of pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves. Its sun-dried leaves develop their aroma in traditional Creole dishes.
WOODY:
(ref nec) Taste of the wine manifesting itself during its stay in wooden vats (barrels.) which then impart to it tastes of vanilla, caramel, burnt, ... depending on the age and its wear.
BOISETTE:
(ref nec) A semi-rounded rubber utensil used in pastry making to create faux-wood decorations.
BEVERAGE:
(TLFi) Liquid that one drinks or that one can drink.
ANISE-FLAVORED SPIRITS:
(economie.gouv.fr) Anise-flavored spirits are obtained by flavoring ethyl alcohol of agricultural origin with natural extracts of star anise, green anise, fennel, or any other plant containing the same main aromatic constituent. Control focuses primarily on pastis, which must notably contain natural extracts derived from licorice root.
BOWL
(TLFi) Piece of tableware, generally hemispherical in shape, used for drinking certain beverages.
BOLEE:
(French dictionary) Contents of a bowl.
BOLINCHE:
(TLFi) Kind of net.
BOLLITO MISTO
(La tavola del piemontese, D. Gasparetto) Pot-au-feu of Italian origin, made with beef, sausage, tongue, calf's head and feet, and vegetables. Traditionally served with pearà sauce.
BOLON (Casson, Beaujon, boulon):
(Inventory of the Culinary Heritage of France, Albin Michel, Paris) A very hard roll that can be kept for over a year. Made only in autumn and winter in the cantons of Planches-en-Montagne and Champagnole.
This very hard roll weighs 50 to 70 g and is oval or rectangular in shape. It is light brown in color with a dull, matte crust, slightly darker than the cut surface and marked with cracks. It has a dry bread flavor with a slight caramelized note. It is composed of 65 to 90% barley flour, 10 to 35% wheat flour, water, salt, and baker's yeast.
BOMBARDINO:
(ref nec) Hot cocktail of Lombard origin made with cream, sabayon, brandy and coffee.
ICE BOMBE:
(Y. Thuries) Preparation based on ice molded in successive layers in a "bomb mold".
BOMBINE:
(ref nec) An old Ardèche specialty, prepared with a salted pork roast, cooked in an earthenware pan with broth, onions, and sliced potatoes.
GOOD:
(ref nec) Traditionally, the voucher (order) is legibly written in triplicate: the original for the barker at the pass, the duplicate at the till and the third copy for record.
GOOD OVEN:
(P. Lacam, Memorial of Pastry) 200°. At this temperature, tarts, flans, leavened doughs, babas.
BONAL:
(IPCF) A drink that is both sweet and bitter. It is a deep brown liquid. This aperitif contains quinine, bitter orange, and a high proportion of gentian, whose flavor is clearly noticeable on tasting. The gentian used is yellow gentian, which is found between June and the end of August in alpine pastures and forests. It is a slow grower: it takes more than 20 years to reach maturity and its flowering is unpredictable. It comes from the Grande Chartreuse massif in the Isère region.
ULTIMATE CANDY:
(invention H. This)
Candy made of 50% butter and 50% icing sugar. Mix, spread, cut.
Toulouse Violet Candy:
(ref nec) Sweets made from fresh violet flowers crystallized in sugar, created by Candiflor in 1818. This is one of the culinary specialties of the city of Toulouse. The production of this confection is very delicate. It is made from violets (Viola odorata or Viola suavis), sugar, and then crystallized.
BONBONNE, ESTAGNON, TOURIE:
(ISO) Large glass container with a narrow neck, usually in the shape of a balloon or cylinder, and with a capacity of 5 gal (22.5 l) or more.
BUN:
(CNRTL) Opening at the bottom of a pond or reservoir through which water flows when the piece of wood plugging it is removed.
By metonymy, the piece of wood used to close the bung.
(Civa) Hole made in the stave of a barrel for filling or emptying it. Formerly made of cloth, leather, wood, but especially cork, bungs are now made of metal, plastic, silicone, rubber, or glass. They are often equipped with a valve allowing carbon dioxide to escape.
The bung in the center of the barrel has a diameter of 6 to 8 cm. It is used to pour cider into the barrel. By metonymy, the piece of wood used to plug it is also called a bung.
BONDON:
(CNRTL) A cylindrical wooden plug used to seal the bung of a barrel.
(CNRTL) A soft, unfermented cheese made in Neufchâtel-en-Bray, shaped like a barrel bung.
BONDONNER:
(CNRTL) [Speaking of a barrel] To seal with a bung.
BONET:
(CNRTL) Edible sea fish related to tuna.
BONIMATE:
(boulangerienet) Bread from western France.
GOOD WOMAN'S SAUCE (A LA):
(Viard, 1806) Rib of Beef à la bonne femme. Trim your rib; stud it with large, spiced lardons; put a piece of butter in a saucepan the size of two eggs; melt it; then add your rib, seasoned with salt and coarsely ground pepper; place your saucepan over a moderately hot flame; turn your rib two or three times; when it is thoroughly heated, reduce the heat to low and also place the lid of your saucepan under a flame; after an hour and a half, it will be cooked; use the cooking liquid for a sauce.
(Urbain Dubois, 1876) Soup à la bonne femme. — Finely chop kale and leeks, according to the quantity of soup required; sauté the leeks in butter; add the kale, season; after 10 minutes, moisten with fresh stock. At the first boil, remove the pan from the heat so the liquid simmers gently. When the cabbage is cooked, add a pinch of chopped sorrel and a pinch of sugar; cook for another 10 minutes, skim off any fat, and thicken with a mixture of a few egg yolks thinned with cream; finish with a knob of butter; pour into a tureen.
(Urbain Dubois, 1876) Chicken Sautéed in the Good Woman's Style. — Finely chop an onion and a few tender carrots; sauté them in a shallow pan with butter; add a few pieces of raw ham or salt pork; a few minutes later, add a chicken cut into 5 or 6 pieces, an unpeeled garlic clove, and a bouquet garni; season and cook the chicken pieces, turning them occasionally; when they are cooked through, remove them with a fork and keep them warm. Sprinkle the vegetables with a tablespoon of flour, and after 2 minutes, moisten with white wine and stock to create a light sauce; cook over high heat for 8 to 10 minutes. When the sauce has reduced and is flavorful, remove the bouquet garni and garlic; add the chicken pieces, heat through without boiling, sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve.
BISHOP'S CAP:
(CNRTL) Bishop's or archbishop's cap, the rear end of a cut-up bird.
(Meat Dictionary) Describes, by analogy of shape, the rump of a turkey because of its mitre-like appearance when erect.
BORDER:
of potatoes
BORTSCH:
(TLFi) A popular Russian dish made with cabbage and beets, seasoned with spices, topped with sour cream, and enriched with meat
BOTRYTIS:
(French Academy Dictionary) An ascomycete fungus that develops on grapevines and fruit trees.
(ref nec) A fungus that attacks grapes. In most cases, it results in reduced yield and lower must quality. The vines are then said to be covered in grey rot. However, under certain conditions (a specific climate, for example, with sunny autumns and morning fog) and for certain grape varieties, it can develop noble rot, increasing the sugar content of the grapes and producing distinctive wines.
BOTRYTIS CINEREA:
(Civa) Botrytis cinerea is a parasitic fungus that develops on grape berries under certain conditions of humidity and sunlight. In excessively humid periods, this fungus is responsible for gray mold. In years with alternating wet and dry periods, Botrytis cinerea develops, giving rise to noble rot. Under these circumstances, it becomes a valuable ally for the winemaker, promoting the concentration of sugar and other flavor and aromatic components in the berries. It allows for the production of Late Harvest and Selection of Noble Grapes. These highly concentrated, long-aging sweet wines are a source of pride for the winemakers who produce them.
BOTRYTISIZED:
(ref nec) Said of a sweet wine made from grapes affected by noble rot.
BOTTELER:
(TLFi) To tie in such a way as to arrange in a bundle.
Leeks are bundled before cooking them for a pot-au-feu, to prevent them from scattering when serving.
Asparagus is also bundled.
BOTVINIA:
(ref nec) Botvinia is a cold, sweet and sour soup from Russian cuisine, made with beet greens, spinach, and sorrel. It is garnished with either cucumber or small pieces of smoked fish.
BOTZI:
(ref nec) Variety of pears: see "Botzi pears". https://www.poire-a-botzi.ch/
SMOKING:
(CNRTL) Operation consisting of smoking meats and fish to preserve them by drying them.
SMOKING:
(tlfi) To smoke meat, fish to preserve them.
MOUTH:
(for a wine) The set of characteristics perceived by the mouth and which can be subdivided into attack, middle of the mouth, and finish.
BOUCHÉE:
(J. Favre) A bouchée is a small vol-au-vent, the name of which varies according to its shape and fillings
(J. Gouffé, "Le Livre de Cuisine," L. Hachette et Cie edition, 1867). A bouchée pastry filled with a poultry purée. (Poultry meat cooked in poultry consommé, then chopped and pounded and mixed with the reduced cooking liquid, thickened with a velouté sauce twice the size of the reduction.)
(Jules Gouffé) A traditional French pastry-like charcuterie. It consists of a cylindrical puff pastry shell and a filling generally composed of sweetbreads, quenelles, mushrooms, poultry, and a creamy béchamel sauce.
It should be noted that Grimod la Reynière writes (Manuel des amphytrions): "The small bouchées à la Reine owe their origin to Marie Leczinska, wife of Louis XV, who, in her devout nature, was very fond of food, although she often turned up her nose." But this is doubtful, because the expression "à la reine" indicates the presence of poultry.
RETAIL BUTCHER:
(D. Alliot, Larpepem vous louchébem?) butcher working in a shop.
WHOLESALE BUTCHER:
(D. Alliot, Larpepem vous louchébem?) butcher of the slaughterhouses.
CAP THE BOTTLE:
(TLFi) Eat after drinking to avoid smelling of wine or alcohol.
BUTCHER SHOP:
(TLFI) Place where livestock is slaughtered. Meat trade. All the people belonging to this profession.
BOUCHET:
(Littré) A type of drink made of water, sugar and cinnamon.
BOTTLE COTTING MACHINE:
(P. Ribereau-Gayon) Bottle corking machine.
CORK:
(Wine Glossary) Besides its function of keeping wine in the bottle, a cork can come in various forms: cork (both airtight and breathable), plastic (for wines not requiring aging), or a screw cap.
(ref nec) A typical restaurant in the Lyon region. The first bouchons appeared to meet the needs of the silk weavers (canuts) around the 19th century. Several meanings are attributed to them: for the cork of wine bottles, for the profession of tavern owners (identified by a hanging bunch of ivy or broom – the word "bouchon" comes, according to the Lyon writer and architect Nizier du Puitspelu, from the pine branch hung as a sign), and for the straw provided for horses.
CORKED:
(French Academy Dictionary) Smelling of cork, having a taste of moldy cork.
[H. This] It was long believed that this taste was due to poorly treated or low-quality corks, but we now know that other causes are possible, such as treatments applied to the timber frames of wine cellars. Specialized analytical laboratories identify the causes of this taste, particularly in relation to the insurance policies taken out by winegrowers and cork manufacturers.
BOUCHONS DU GIENNOIS:
(r https://www.larep.fr/gien-45500/actualites/passage-en-revue-des-produits-qui-font-lidentite-de-gien-et-des-territoires-environnants_1252602/) Hazelnut praline with dragée-coated crêpe dentelle (unofficial source, only one entry in my search engine)
BOUCHOYADE:
( https://www.bdlp.org/fiche/17583) Meat and offal of a freshly slaughtered pig, prepared according to local recipes; pork products, charcuterie.
BOUCONS:
(Dictionary of Foods, 1750) " To make this stew, take small slices of veal shank, a little long and thin, flatten them on a flat table, arrange one after the other on your slices a large piece of raw bacon and a ham, sprinkle them with a little parsley and chives, season with fine spices and herbs. Your slices thus garnished, roll them neatly like filet mignons and put them in a pot to cook over embers; when they are cooked, drain the fat and serve with a good coulis and a stew of mushrooms, truffles and other garnishes ."
WHITE PUDDING:
(Massialot, 1705) " You must take a roast turkey; if you want to make a large batch, also have a capon: take both stomachs, chop them finely. Then cut some very thin pork fat, and put everything in a saucepan with two onions cooked under the embers, which must be crushed, and a little mixed herbs, and parsley. Season it with ordinary spices, and add two or three beaten egg whites: then, take a pint of milk, with a dozen egg yolks, which you mix well together, and cook on the stove like a cream, taking care that it does not curdle. You must mix everything together, and heat it a little: you must be careful that your stuffing is not too liquid; then take some pig casings, scald them, and scrape them very clean After that, you will take your minced meat and stuff it into your casings, and tie your sausages at both ends, to the length you desire. As you fill them, prick them a little to let the air out. Blanch them in a little water, a little milk, and a few slices of onion; then, having stretched them out on a clean towel, let them cool. To serve them, grill them on paper over a moderate heat, lest they burst; add a little lard or other fat, and serve hot as an appetizer. "
White fish sausage": finely grind eel, carp, or pike, then add fine breadcrumbs soaked in milk, butter, and season with all sorts of herbs and common spices, including a little coriander. Eggs (yolks and whites) and cream are added; the mixture is lightly cooked on the stovetop and then poured into a funnel. It is cooked in two stages: first in water, then grilled.
(ref nec) White pudding is a charcuterie preparation made from a very finely minced mixture of white meat, sometimes with added pork or veal fat, and occasionally fish or shellfish, encased in casings. It also contains butter, cream, milk, eggs, flour (or breadcrumbs soaked in milk), and spices.
In 1651, Pierre François La Varenne mentions white pudding… and “grey pudding,” which is made from calf's liver. The use of breadcrumbs soaked in milk is documented from 1705 onwards.
White Pudding from Rethel:
(INAO) White pudding from Rethel is presented in cylindrical portions weighing 100 to 130 grams, or a maximum of 70 grams for smaller sizes, and with a diameter of 32 to 34 mm (pork casings) or 20 to 26 mm (sheep casings) for smaller sizes. It has a light, uniform color and fine to medium-sized granules.
Several varieties of white pudding from Rethel exist:
plain,
with mushrooms, with
wild mushrooms, with truffles,
and with truffle juice.
It can be sold in various formats in traditional supermarkets, loose, and in self-service sections, pre-packaged in consumer sales units (CSUs).
BLACK PUDDING:
(ref nec) Black pudding is a charcuterie preparation made from defibrinated blood (blood that has lost its fibrin, an elastic and insoluble stringy protein) and seasoned pork fat, encased in a casing and cooked. It is sold by the meter or in portions sealed at the ends. It sometimes contains onion, chestnuts, etc., depending on the region.
Alsatian Blood Sausage:
(ref nec) Blood sausage containing bread soaked in milk.
It is brown in color, ranging from light to dark, and is made from large pieces of pork, twisted into 150-200 gram pieces. Its texture is fine and slightly grainy. The composition varies: 25% pork blood, pork head, throat with rind, slightly fatty belly, onions sautéed in lard (approximately 20%), and bread soaked in milk (10%).
WHITE PUDDING:
(ref nec) Cooked preparation of fine charcuterie, presented as a pork menu and having in common with blood sausage only the shape, the high water content and the name.
FRYING LIVER SAUSAGE:
(ref nec) Also known as {Brotlewerwurscht}, this frying liver sausage is a grey-colored sausage, encased in pork casing, 3.5 to 4 centimeters wide and sold in portions of 100 to 150 grams. It is composed of pork liver, pork head meat, pork jowl, lean pork belly and lean shoulder or loin meat, salt, pepper, ginger, nutmeg, coriander, chili pepper, garlic, shallot and parsley.
BLACK PUDDING:
(ref nec) Made from pig's blood, fat and cooked onions.
ANGEVIN BLACK PUDDING, or COGNE:
(ref nec) Cooked charcuterie made with blood, milk, cooked chard leaves, stale breadcrumbs, onions, cream, and eggs. It is presented in very wide, curly casings, or even in pork sacks. It is generally eaten in grilled slices.
AUDOIS BLACK PUDDING:
(ref nec) Regional specialty composed of 40 percent pig's head and throat, 30 percent blood, 30 percent rinds and boneless feet.
AUVERGNE BLACK PUDDING:
(ref nec) It includes the addition of milk, on the order of 0.2 liters per liter of blood, and cooked, unskinned pig's head.
BURGUNDY BLACK PUDDING:
(ref nec) It contains milk and rice. The designation "Burgundy black pudding with rice" exempts the manufacturer from including the terms "starchy" or "fatter-based" in the sales description.
BLACK PUDDING WITH CREAM:
(ref nec) A specialty black pudding with a culinary character due to the significant proportion of fresh cream (replacing pork fat). The basic composition remains that of classic black pudding, and the cream content is approximately 10 percent.
BLACK PUDDING WITH FRUIT:
(ref nec) The addition of fruits such as apples, chestnuts, raisins, perpetuates regional customs.
BLACK PUDDING WITH HERBS:
(ref nec) Classic black pudding with added mixed vegetables and aromatic herbs: spinach, chard leaves, parsley, chervil, tarragon, scallions, chives.
BLACK TONGUE PUDDING:
(ref nec) Alsatian specialty, translation of Zungenwurscht. The product consists of a black sausage paste and beef or pork tongues (35 to 45 percent) sometimes surrounded by bacon and arranged geometrically in the casing (large beef bladder or large beef casing).
BLACK PUDDING WITH WALNUTS:
(ref nec) A specialty originating from the Auvergne region. The proportion of walnuts is between 2 and 4 percent.
BLACK PUDDING FROM PARIS:
(ref nec) The basic formula is 1/3 blood, 1/3 fat and 1/3 cooked onions, with or without the addition of milk or cream.
BLACK PUDDING FROM POITOU:
(ref nec) It is prepared without pork fat; it contains, in addition to blood, chopped cooked spinach, cream, eggs, milk, sugar and semolina or breadcrumbs.
BLACK PUDDING WITH APPLES:
(ref nec) Here, apples replace onions.
BLACK PUDDING FROM STRASBOURG:
(ref nec) It includes, in addition to blood, pork fat and cooked onions, about 15 percent rinds and 5 to 10 percent bread rolls soaked in milk; it is smoked.
BOUDOIR:
(Professional Charter of Biscuit and Cake Manufacturers of France) Egg biscuit, crispy, elongated in shape, with a coating of crystallized sugar on top.
FOOD:
(CNRTL) Colloquial; food.
(Robert) The word “bouffe” comes from the colloquial verb bouffer, attested in 1160 initially, but with the meaning of puffing out one's cheeks, first with anger, then, attested in 1535, it meant having cheeks puffed out with food... hence the fact that bouffer became associated with eating very greedily. April 26, 2022
BOUFFI:
(IPCF) During the 17th century, herring less salty than traditional smoked herring began to be sold. The bouffi, so named because it was smoked in a round shape, that is, without being gutted or beheaded, was salted for only 24 hours and smoked for a maximum of 8 hours (in 1778, Darel also cites a memorandum mentioning a trade in "bouffié" herring). It was a whole fish weighing 200g, either virgin or full herring, or "boward." It had a swollen appearance, was straw-yellow in color, and had a salty, smoky taste.
BOUFFOIR:
(Favre) Bellows which butchers use to blow air under the skin and into the cellular tissues of animals slaughtered for butchering.
BOUGNETTE:
(from Eric Glatre's Meat Dictionary, published by BPI) A bougnette is a large ball, 10 to 15 centimeters in diameter, made from minced pork belly mixed with a bread and egg mixture, wrapped in caul fat. Although often associated with the city of Castres and the Tarn department, this product is found on the border between the Languedoc administrative region and Auvergne. It is also found in Catalonia.
BOUGRAS:
(ref nec) Bougras is a vegetable soup from Périgord, prepared with the cooking water of black pudding, traditional at carnival time.
BOILING:
(CNRTL) The act of boiling. Fermentation of wine in barrels.
BOILING:
(CNRTL) Fermentation of cider.
BOUILLANS
(Royal Cook, 1705): { To make Bouillans, take some roasted chickens or capons; take the stomach with a little marrow, the size of a blanched veal udder egg, the same amount of bacon, and a little bit of herbs; and once all of this is well chopped and seasoned, put it on a plate. Make a piece of thin dough, and roll it out into two sheets as thin as paper: moisten one with a little water lightly; put some of your stuffing on it in small pieces, leaving a reasonable distance between them. Then cover them with the other sheet, and with the tips of your fingers enclose each piece between the two layers of dough; and with a suitable cutter, cut them one by one, and place them top to bottom, arranging them neatly as if they were small pastries; and cook them in the same way.} They can be served as hors d'oeuvres or to garnish entrees; but they must be served warm, with lemon juice or a little white wine . See
https://nouvellesgastronomiques.com/terminologie-richelieu-et-soubise-par-herve-this/
DISTILLER ON ACCOUNT:
(IPCF) One who distills or has distilled the fruits of his harvest for the commercialization of alcohol.
BOUILLEUR DE CRU:
(IPCF) One who distills or has distilled fruit exclusively from his harvest for personal consumption.
BOUILLI:
(ref nec) Bouilli is the abbreviation for the cut of beef used to prepare a pot-au-feu, broth, or consommé. Bouilli de desserte undergoes numerous preparations.
BOIL:
(cnrtl)
- To cook in a boiling liquid.
- To ferment, referring to grapes in the vat after harvesting.
PORRIDGE:
(tlfi) A more or less thick food, composed of milk or water and flour boiled together, intended mainly for feeding young children.
BOUILLINADE:
(ref nec) Bouillinade (bouillinada) is a fish soup from Roussillon, very similar to the Provençal bouillabaisse and made, like it, with various fish.
BROTH:
1. (Littré) A liquid food prepared by boiling animal substances, most commonly beef, or sometimes just vegetables and herbs, in water.
In 1742, in François Marin's *La Suite des dons de Comus*, we find the following recipe:
{ Broth:
The first broth, or if you prefer, the general broth, which is properly speaking the soul of the cuisine, is made with beef, such as brisket, chuck, brisket, sirloin, rump, or brisket. It must be kept very mild and contain only a few roots or onions as ingredients. The rest is unnecessary, since this broth is used to moisten stews, to make beef stock, to moisten large embers, and even to make soup for an entire household, by adding the vegetables, herbs, or roots that one deems appropriate.} This broth must be well skimmed, degreased, very clear, and properly strained.
In *L'Officine ou Répertoire de pharmacie pratique* (The Pharmacy or Directory of Practical Pharmacy), the pharmacist and former intern at the Hospitals of Paris, François Dorvault (1815, Loire-Inférieure), wrote in 1844: " These are magistral preparations whose base is the flesh of various animals or vegetable matter, and sometimes both combined. They are divided into medicinal broths and food broths ."
They are made into broth tablets, or "dry broth," which have the advantage of being preserved for several years in a dry place and constitute "field broths"; the army used them to comfort soldiers from the beginning of the First World War.
Today, the name "broth" is sometimes used to refer to the liquid part of a stew or pot-au-feu, which is also called "white consommé."
Cordial Broth:
(François Marin, The Continuation of Comus's Gifts ) { Cordial broth used for clear soups, veal stock, and quintessence.
Sweat a four- or five-pound piece of sirloin in a saucepan with half a well-trimmed leg of mutton, an old partridge, and a hen. Within fifteen minutes, everything should have sweated and even slightly thickened. Before adding the roots and vegetables, moisten with the simmering broth. Then pour it into a clean pot, which you then fill completely with boiling water. Use equal parts water and water. Halfway through cooking, add your roots with two pounds of veal shank, which you sweat and moisten as above. This broth should simmer for six hours, after which it is strained to clear and used as needed. It can also be made in a bain-marie.} It needs very little salt. }
2. Restaurant whose main dish was originally soup and beef.
BOUILLON CUBE:
(ref nec) Broth extract in the form of a dehydrated parallelepiped.
WEDDING BROTH:
(ref nec) gourdine, a stew for festive meals. It is traditionally prepared with four meats (beef, veal shank, stuffed chicken).
QUICK-MADE BROTH:
(François Marin, The Continuation of Comus's Gifts)
{ Take half a pound of veal loin and a piece of veal shank with carrots and parsnips, all cut into strips. Sweat them over high heat in a saucepan with a little water and a small piece of bacon and onion studded with a sliver. When it begins to stick, moisten with boiling water, and add salt, turnips, and blanched celery stalks. Boil for three-quarters of an hour and strain. }
VEAL BROTH:
(D. Alliot, Larpepem vous louchébem?) A phrase used in slaughterhouses to announce aperitif time
BOULAGE:
(ref nec) The act of forming a dough into a ball.
BAKING:
1. (TLFi) The making of bread by the baker, and secondarily its sale.
2. Ground wheat grains resulting from the first passes of the mill.
3. (TLFi) The product of milling wheat, transformed by the millstone into bran, grits, or flour.
BAKER:
(TLFi) One who makes and, where applicable, sells bread.
BAKER OF LARGE LOAVES
(boulangerie.net) itinerant bakers who come from the suburbs or neighboring towns, selling bread in Parisian markets (16th century).
BAKER OF SMALL BREAD ROLLS:
(boulangerie.net) production of small loaves of bread by Parisian bakers (16th century)
BOULANGERE:
(ref nec) Filling including onions, baked potatoes in broth.
BAKER:
(ref nec) Baker in Old French. Before the 12th century, the word "baker" did not exist. It is derived from the Picard word "boulenc" (one who makes round loaves of bread). It came into use in the 15th century. People spoke of "fournier" (oven makers) or "pesteur" from the Latin "pistor" (miller-baker). Another hypothesis derives this word from Middle Dutch "bolle" (loaf of bread).
BERLIN BALL:
(Alsatian bread house) Berliner pfannkuchen , doughnut of Austro-Hungarian origin made from leavened dough fried in fat or oil, filled before cooking with marmalade, jam or pastry cream and covered with sugar.
GUM BALL
(CNRTL) A confection made of gum arabic and sugar, sucked for enjoyment or to soothe minor throat irritations.
A confection made of bubble gum shaped into a small, brightly colored, shiny ball coated in hardened sugar.
SNOW GALL:
(ref nec) A snowball is a frozen dessert, consisting of a bombe mixture whipped in a melon-shaped mold and coated with whipped cream.
(TLFi) Frozen dessert prepared with sugar and the juice of certain fruits.
RICE BALL:
(TLFi) Hollow metal or porcelain balls, pierced with holes, used to infuse certain foods or plants.
TEA BALL:
(TLFi) Hollow metal or porcelain balls, pierced with holes, used to infuse certain foods or plants.
TO SHAPE:
(The butcher-caterer's companion's book) To shape into a ball is to roll dough to give it the form of a ball. This operation allows you to give a regular shape to the dough; you can shape it more or less tightly.
BOULET DE METZ:
(ref nec) This chocolate bite, filled with biscuit, is a large round ball, approximately 6 cm in diameter and weighing 140/16+0 g. With a fairly compact texture, it is composed of a succession of varied layers: the ganache center is surrounded by biscuit, then marzipan, Blind caramel, rolled in slivered hazelnuts and dipped in dark, milk or white couverture chocolate.
MEATBALL:
(TLFi) Small ball of minced meat, mashed potatoes, etc., intended for human or animal consumption.
Farmhouse cheese made in Northern France (Avesnes, Cambrai, Thierache)
BULGUR:
(ref nec) Word from Turkish, of Persian origin, which means steamed wheat or germinated durum wheat.
BOULER:
(ref nec) To shape into a ball.
Operation which consists of working a dough by hand by making a rapid circular movement in order to obtain a smooth ball more or less tight depending on the needs.
BOULOT (PAIN)
(TLFi) Round in shape
AVESNES BALL:
(ref nec) A cheese from northern France, produced from June to September. Formerly known locally as "poor man's dolphin." The origin of the Avesnes ball seems to date back to the appearance of the Dauphin cheese. This cheese is mentioned in accounts of the Maroilles Abbey after 1760. In more recent times, the base of the ball was whey from the production of Maroilles cheese, sometimes mixed with buttermilk. It was shaped by hand and eaten fresh or matured with herbs. (J. Froc). There are also farm-made and home-made Cambrai balls, handmade, flavored or unflavored, and eaten fresh.
LIVER PIE:
(ref nec) Liver dumpling, Lawerknepfle. This Alsatian specialty resembles a dumpling made of dark-colored, soft dough. It consists of liver, smoked bacon, and an equal amount of breadcrumbs soaked in milk, bound with whole eggs and semolina. Seasoning includes raw onions, salt, pepper, chervil, parsley, and nutmeg. Variations exist where pork liver is replaced with beef liver or beef fat.
BOUQUET:
The overall olfactory sensations produced by wine.
Large floret of cauliflower or broccoli.
(CNRTL) Large pink shrimp. Easily recognizable by the saw-like "rostrum" on its head.
BOUQUET GARNI:
(TLFi) Small tied packet of aromatic plants used to flavor sauces, etc., during cooking.
A BOUQUET OF PARSLEY:
(ref nec) An old expression referring to the financial advantage a chef received from his suppliers. A kind of clandestine commission offered for loyal customers. The expression originally referred to the fishmonger who gave a few sprigs of parsley to his customers.
BOUQUETIERE:
(ref nec) The bouquetière garnish consists of vegetables arranged separately in a bouquet
MELTS:
(viticulture oenology) Solid elements suspended in a must.
MUDDY:
(ref nec) Said of a wine, generally freshly opened, whose lees have not yet had time to settle at the bottom. There is a lot of suspended matter.
BOURBOULENC:
(ref nec) Bourboulenc is a late-ripening white wine grape variety, cultivated mainly in the South of France (it is one of the thirteen grape varieties that can be used in Châteauneuf-du-Pape).
Bourboulenc is also known as Berlou Blanc, Blanquette, Blanquette du Frontonnais, Blanquette du Gard, Blanquette Menue, Bourboulanc, Bourboulenco, Bourbouleng, Bourboulenque, Bourbounenco, Burbulen, Clairette à Grains Ronds, Clairette Blanche, Clairette Dorée, Clairette Dorée de Paulhan, Clairette Grosse, Clairette Rousse, Clairette Rousse du Var, Doucillon, Frappad, Grosse Clairette, Malvoisie, Malvoisie du Languedoc, Mourterille, Ondenc, Picardan, Roussaou, Roussette, and Roussette de Vaucluse.
BOURDALOUE (A LA):
Must have a festoon of arranged pastry.
(Massialot, 1722) {“ Lightly peel a quarter of small Api apples, and leave their stems on; put them in a saucepan with a pint of Burgundy wine, half a septier of brandy, a good lump of sugar, a little good butter and cook them over a low heat; when almost cooked, push them briskly until the syrup is almost caramelized; then remove them from the heat and let them cool, make small, very thin rounds of pastry, enclose an apple in each round in the shape of a mound, with the stem passing over the top; when they are all done, brush them with beaten eggs: then make another puff pastry which you roll out very thin, and cut it into small strips the width of three lines, with a small circle which you wrap around each apple starting from underneath and ending at the stem; Brown them, bake them in a pie dish, glaze them like stuffed apples, arrange them on a platter, and serve them as a dessert .
BOURGEOISE (A LA):
(Favre, Universal Dictionary of Cuisine) Regarding offal: Singé, sauté, broth or wine, studded onion, bouquet garni, carrots, onions.
BOURGERON:
(D. Alliot, Larpepem vous louchébem?) thick white blouse with hood for carrying meat on the back.
BRETON (A LA):
(Favre, Universal Dictionary of Cuisine) Garnish for a large piece of meat, composed of white beans and onions.
BUD
(Civa) A bud is a shoot in its embryonic stage. It is protected by scales to form an eye of the vine. A bud is a shoot in its miniature state: it is made up of the beginnings of leaves and fruit. In spring the scales open and the leaves unfurl.
Vosges Fir Bud:
(ref nec) The genuine Vosges bud is made with fir essential oil, sourced directly from the buds of this tree. Tangy, brittle, and firm to the bite, this small amber candy has the conical shape of a fir tree, with small points on its surface. It weighs 2 g and its strong pine flavor refreshes the palate. To make 40 kg of candy, 28 kg of sugar and 16 kg of glucose syrup are required, totaling 44 kg of raw materials, as well as natural flavorings, fir essential oil, and menthol.
BORAGE:
(ref nec) Borage (from the Arabic {abu rach}, meaning "father of sweat" because of its diaphoretic properties) is an annual plant of uncultivated areas (family Boraginaceae – Botanical name: {Borago officinalis} L.) with bright blue, white, or red flowers with five star-shaped petals that have a briny taste similar to that of oysters.
Common borage (also known as common borage, bee bread, or ox tongue) is why it is often served with oysters. The flowers and young leaves of borage are traditionally eaten fresh (as a mucilage). It is also used as a spice. The plant can enhance omelets and salads and replace vegetables served with meat. It is quite commonly used in Germany in cold soups; the best-known recipe using this plant as an ingredient is the "green sauce" that can be enjoyed in Frankfurt.
BOURRET or BOURRU or BERNACHE:
(ref nec) Said of a cloudy, sparkling and sweet must, still fermenting, generally low in alcohol, and which is appreciated towards the end of the harvest.
SHOULDER RUB
(ISO, for containers) Shoulder having a bulge (rib or bulge) of rounded section on its circumference.
BOURRICHE:
(Inventory of the culinary heritage of France) Small basket made of poplar wood.
BOURRU:
New white wine that has not fermented and whose transparency is obscured by a large quantity of lees.
Other definitions: new sweet wine, paradise (in Beaujolais), Neier in (Alsace), bernache (in the Loire Valley, there is a Confrérie des buveux de bernache).
BOUTARGUE:
(ref nec) Provençal specialty made from pressed, salted and sun-dried or smoked mullet roe.
BOTTLE:
(ISO) A narrow-necked glass container.
(TLFi) A large glass bottle, usually dark, containing wine.
(TLFi) The contents of the bottle (usually a beverage).
(CNRTL) A container for a liquid intended for consumption or for personal use. Its legal capacity is 75 cl.
All bottles larger than a magnum are named after biblical figures, with the exception of the Adelaide, the Imperial, the Sovereign, and the Primate.
See Adelaide, Magnum, Imperial, Sovereign, Primate, Eighth, Chopine, Half, Fillette, Champagne, Frontignan, Jeroboam, Rehoboam, Shalmaneser, Methuselah, Balthazar, Nebuchadnezzar, Melchior, Solomon, Sovereign, Primate, Melchizedek, Sublime.
LOST BOTTLE:
(ISO) non-returnable bottle, non-reusable container. Bottle designed to have mechanical resistance suitable for single use, i.e., should not be refilled.
BOUT DE GRAS:
(ref nec) Name used to designate the fat end in the Agen region.
SHOP:
(D. Alliot, Larpepem vous louchébem?) trapezoidal box where the knives that slaughterhouse boys carry at their side were kept
BULL, or CHESTNUT:
(ref nec) Young castrated male bovine, raised for meat production with feed rations ensuring rapid growth and which is generally slaughtered between 20 and 24 months.
BOUZY:
(ref nec) Bouzy is a French commune located in the Marne department in the northeast region. The vineyards are situated in the Montagne de Reims, a sub-region of Champagne, and are classified as Grand Cru (100%) in the Champagne vineyard classification.
BOYASSE:
(D. Alliot, Larpepem, are you cross-eyed?) residues from a slaughterhouse
Casing:
(ref nec) Butcher's casings are envelopes used to contain meat paste.
BRACELET:
(ref nec) Rings of onion slices 0.2 to 0.5 mm thick, cut perpendicular to the layers. The rings are separated manually.
BRAGEOLE:
(ref nec) A dish made of meat rolls, primarily beef chuck cutlets, seasoned inside with garlic, parsley, salt, and pepper. They are often held together with a wooden skewer. The meat is usually pan-fried or grilled.
Brageole is also a Sicilian family specialty, also based on meat rolls, but with melted cheese inside, the meat being coated in a special homemade breadcrumb.
BRAIE
(ENSMIC) Water vapor introduced into the oven before the dough is put in the oven.
BRAISING:
(According to Carême) A culinary operation which consists of heating the surface of the meats very quickly by infrared radiation (which kills surface microorganisms and gives taste, through various reactions, of pyrolysis, amino-carbonyl, oxidation...), then cooking these meats at a temperature between 60 and 100 degrees (as low as possible), for a very long time, in order to tenderize the muscle tissue by progressive degradation of the collagenous tissue.
EMBERS:
(CNRTL) Residue of a fire, usually wood, burning without a flame.
Cooked in a braising pan (e.g., a leg of lamb cooked over embers)
BRAISER:
(CNRTL) To cook food (beef, lettuce, etc.) over embers, e.g., over low heat and covered. To cook in a braising pan
BRAN or BREN:
(TLFi) What remains of the bran, when it has been deprived of its remaining flour, dry or lean bran.
BRANDADE:
(TLFi) Preparation of cod in the Provençal style.
BRANTEVIN:
(Claude Royer, Inventory of the Culinary Heritage of France, Albin Michel, Paris) Term of Germanic origin designating, at that time, the brandy which results from the distillation of wine.
BRAQUER
(O. Ducommun) To rework a dough to incorporate air into it.
Brassadeau, or Brassado
(IPCF) The brassadeau is an old Provençal pastry that owes its name to its bracelet shape. A scalded cake, meaning its dough is dipped in boiling water before being baked, its tradition dates back to the Middle Ages. Indeed, the brassadeau was worn by newlyweds at their wedding. In the 17th century, it was sold at religious and civil celebrations on the end of a stick and was particularly popular during the Easter season. Its preparation is very lengthy, requiring approximately 24 hours from start to finish. When it comes out of the oven, the cake is brown in color, with a firm yet airy texture. The addition of orange blossom water and orange zest gives this dessert a distinctive character.
(ref nec) Scalded ring-shaped cake weighing 70 g, 16 cm long and 9 cm wide by 2 cm thick, made of flour, eggs, water, sugar, orange blossom and sodium bicarbonate.
BRASSAGE:
(ref nec) Also called curdling: the action of dividing the mass of the coagulum (curd) into grains of varying size, depending on the type of cheese to be obtained.
BREW:
(TLFi) To make beer by mixing malt and water while hot.
To agitate or stir a substance or mixture at a high temperature.
(Cocktails) Term describing the action of mixing in a mixing glass with a bar spoon.
BRASSOU:
(Inventory of the culinary heritage of France) Long stick of hard, solid, and smooth wood which was formerly used to stir, to mix the ingredients in the cauldron placed on a tripod above the fire.
BREASTBONE:
(CNRTL) A prominent bony ridge located on the outer surface of a bird's sternum.
(ref nec) In the Bugey region, the breastbone is the V-shaped part between the two wings. Called "poor man's frog," it is cooked in the manner of frogs.
BREDE:
(ref nec) Brèdes refers to a collection of herbaceous plants and various leaves cooked in broth with boucané (smoked pork short ribs), spices and served with Creole rice.
BRESAOLA:
(ref nec) Bresaola della Valtellina is a cured meat from the Lombardy region of Italy, benefiting from the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI). It is made from beef, salted and seasoned, and eaten raw.
BRESI (BRAISI, BREZI, BREZY):
(Inventory of Gastronomic Heritage) Produced primarily in the Jura Mountains. A tough, dry, red-colored muscle mass with a slightly woody texture, composed of beef, saltpeter, salt, herbs, cloves, garlic, and onion. Equivalent to Bündnerfleisch (Swiss dried beef). The name derives from the resemblance of this preparation to brazilwood.
BRESOLER:
(Savoie, Switzerland) To roast, to brown.
BRESTOIS:
(ref nec) Preservation cake.
BRETON (garnish)
(Favre, Universal Dictionary of Cuisine) Flageolet beans seasoned with meat juices and chopped onions, then sautéed. This garnish is served primarily with leg of lamb, which is then called leg of lamb Breton-style.
(ref nec) This name appeared at the beginning of the 19th century. It refers to beans cooked with onions and butter, such as Antoine Beauvilliers' "Breton-style bean stew" in L'Art du cuisinier (1814).
"Saddle of lamb Breton-style" is thus served with this bean preparation. But the name also refers to an onion purée, such as Jules Gouffé's red onion purée in his Livre de cuisine (1867): blanched, the onions are placed in "a dish to glaze with butter, salt, and sugar," then sautéed until they are a deep red. They are then moistened with stock and finished "with butter and meat glaze."
The term also refers to a way of preparing fish, such as "sole à la bretonne," "lined" with julienned vegetables, and finished, at the time of serving, with a velouté sauce and crème fraîche. "Sauce à la bretonne" is also used to coat braised fish fillets, poached or soft-boiled eggs, etc.
BRETONNE (à la):
(Urbain Dubois) Said of leverets returned with bacon, bouquet garni, onions, Sauternes, served with onion stew.
BRETONNE (PIE NOIR)
(ref nec) A small cow with legendary hardiness and excellent production quality, adaptable to both dairy and beef systems. Produces rich milk and marbled meat. The breed is deeply rooted in regional history and heritage.
PRETZEL (in Alsatian BRATSCHDALL)
(French Professional Charter for Biscuit and Cake Manufacturers) Crunchy and dry, the pretzel is a salted biscuit, often decorated with salt crystals. Its
knot shape is characteristic. It can also be presented in stick form.
The ingredients of a pretzel are flour and salt.
BRIBE:
(TLFi) Piece of bread, leftover food given to beggars.
BRICELET:
(bakery) thin and crispy waffle (Swiss)
BRICHETON:
(boulangerienet) Bread, in slang.
TUBING (charcuterie, butchery):
(The Companion Butcher-Caterer's Book) To create a mesh around a product with string.
There are several techniques for trussing poultry. Complete trussing, with or without the aid of a trussing needle, initial trussing, quick trussing, or even industrial trussing with elastic.
Trussing helps to hold the poultry during cooking and ensures an attractive presentation that highlights the breasts and thighs.
TRIMMING WITH A TRIMMING NEEDLE:
(ref nec) Using a trussing needle with a length of string (butcher's twine or poultry twine), near the tail, insert the needle into the hole in the left ischium, bring the needle out through the joint of the right thigh, insert it into the right wing, pass the needle under the spine, and then reverse the process, inserting the needle into the left wing, then into the joint of the left thigh, and bringing the needle out through the right ischium. Tuck the tail inside the chicken and tie a knot with the two ends of the string coming out towards the tail, tightening it securely.
ELASTIC STRAP:
(ref nec) Strap used by industrial manufacturers. Elastic strap made from raw materials compliant with European food safety regulations.
ENTRY BRIBE:
(ref nec) Bridle using a bridle needle inserted through both ischial tuberosities, tightly tightening the string holding the two legs. This entry bridle can also be done without a needle, by clamping the top of the rump and both legs. This bridle system requires securing the fins by folding them back behind the top of the spine. This method is faster but less effective than the complete bridle with a needle.
QUICK TRIBUTION:
(ref nec) This method is done without a needle. Using a butcher's twine approximately 80 cm long, hold it in the middle and tie a knot around the legs and rump. Pass each end of the twine between the thighs and the carcass, then turn the bird over and tie a knot securing both wings behind the back.
TRIGGING:
(Larousse Gastronomique) To pass, using a trussing needle, one or two strands of butcher's twine through the body of poultry or game birds to hold the legs and wings close to the body during cooking.
The action of creating a mesh around a product with twine to give it shape and maintain it when it is hung, for example, during steaming or drying. In charcuterie, large cuts are trussed by hand.
BRIE:
(nf) Wooden instrument with which the vermicelli maker, the baker, the pastry chef, gives the final shaping to the dough (TLFi).
BRIE DE MEAUX:
(ref nec) Raw milk cheese whose designation of origin has been commercially protected by an AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) since 1980. Its production area extends from the Brie plains to the Meuse River. Its name comes from the Brie region and the town of Meaux in France. It is a soft, bloomy-rind cheese made from raw cow's milk, weighing on average 2.8 kg and measuring 36 to 37 cm in diameter. Its rind is thin, downy white, and speckled with red spots. The paste is straw-yellow, smooth, and supple, but not runny.
BRIE DE MELUN:
(ref nec) Appellation of origin designating a raw milk cheese from the Melun plain, benefiting from a controlled designation of origin since 1980. Although the history of the cheeses of the region remains largely unknown, it is considered the ancestor of Brie cheeses.
BRIE DE MONTEREAU:
(ref nec) Its real name is "Ville-Saint-Jacques," and it is a cheese from the Île-de-France region.
It resembles Coulommiers in size and Brie de Melun in taste. It is made in the Montereau-Fault-Yonne area. It measures 18 centimeters in diameter, 2.5 centimeters in thickness, and weighs 400 grams. It is best enjoyed after six weeks of aging.
BRIE DE NANGIS:
(ref nec) Cheese from the French Brie region, and more specifically from the area associated with the present-day commune of Nangis in the Seine-et-Marne department of France. A raw milk Brie produced by the Rouzaire dairy, using this appellation, is also available in Tournan-en-Brie.
BRIE DE PROVINS:
(ref nec) A soft, bloomy-rind cheese made from raw cow's milk, aged for 4 to 5 weeks. Its flavor is relatively mild and characterized by aromas of undergrowth reminiscent of the Provins region. Brie de Provins is unique in combining a mushroomy aroma with a fruity taste, achieved through a traditional "Brie shovel" molding process that aerates the curd. It is a medium-sized Brie, 27 to 28 cm in diameter and 4 to 4.5 cm thick. Originally weighing 1.5 kg, its weight has fluctuated between 1.7 and 2 kg since the early 2000s to allow for a longer aging process. Affiliated with its ancestor "the galette de brie de Provins" which was particularly appreciated in the Middle Ages throughout Europe, Brie de Provins shares its history, origins and terroir.
BRIER:
(ref nec) Working the dough with a brie, braie or brayon, a type of stick. To tread, to work the dough (obsolete).
In Old Norman, to pound the dough for brié bread, which involves a long period of kneading and beating, resulting in a denser, heavy loaf with a tight, sourdough crumb.
BRIFE:
(boulangerient) bread, in slang.
BRIFETON:
(boulangerenet) Bread, in slang.
BRIGADE:
(D. Alliot, Larpepem vous louchébem?) A group of butcher's boys employed in Parisian slaughterhouses
(Larousse Gastronomique). In restaurants, a team is formed of cooks and support staff, under the authority of a brigade leader.
This head chef, or "big shot," is assisted by a sous-chef (sometimes the sauce chef), and manages the section chefs, each of whom has one or more cooks or commis under their command.
The brigade leader is responsible for menu planning, supplies, staff recruitment, and work coordination.
A complete kitchen brigade consists of
: - a sauce chef, also in charge of poultry and unroasted meats;
- a pantry, for all cold items, cold sauces, and stock monitoring;
- a roaster, who also prepares the potatoes for frying (or griller, or grilling for grilling);
- a vegetable cook, sometimes working with a vegetable chef, who prepares vegetables, eggs, and soups; as assistants, there are also vegetable peelers;
- a fishmonger, who also prepares hollandaise and béarnaise sauces;
- a pastry chef, sometimes assisted by an ice cream maker and a confectioner;
- a cook, responsible for staff meals ;
- a sous-chef, who replaces a chef de partie in their absence.
Ancillary services (washing dishes and utensils, preparation tasks) are provided by the cook (who also prepares fish), the silversmith, the china cabinet, and the kitchen boy.
BRIGNOLET:
(boulangerienet) bread, in slang.
BRIKI:
In Greece, a small copper or brass jug with a long wooden handle, used to prepare coffee decoctions by mixing cold water, finely ground coffee, and sometimes sugar, which is then heated until boiling. Called cezve in Turkey.
BRILLAT-SAVARIN:
(ref nec) Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin was a French magistrate who published an extraordinary work entitled *The Physiology of Taste * in 1825. In it, he defined gastronomy, not, as some ignorantly believe, as the cooking of appearances, but rather as " the reasoned knowledge of everything relating to man insofar as he nourishes himself ."
It is a remarkable literary work, but one should be careful not to take everything in it literally, even if it is presented scientifically, because the book is pure fiction.
(cheese) Brillat-Savarin is a triple-cream cheese that is eaten young and very fresh. It is produced in the Normandy and Burgundy regions. Containing at least 30% fat in the finished product, and made from cow's milk, this is a soft, bloomy-rind cheese weighing an average of 500 grams. It is shaped like a flat disc approximately 13 cm in diameter and 3.5 cm thick. Its optimal tasting period is from April to October after a 12-day ripening period.
Garlic Sprig:
(Inventory of the culinary heritage of France) Garlic clove whose tip is green at the time of germination.
BRIOCHE:
(tlfi) Pastry made from flour, eggs, milk and sourdough.
BRIQUET:
(ref nec) The briquet is the name given to the packed lunch that miners carried with them in northern France and Wallonia at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries. It consisted of a double slice of buttered bread topped with cheese or cold cuts, or even with cottage cheese, garlic, and shallots.
CURD BREAKER:
(ref nec) Of varying shapes depending on the region, an instrument used to break up curd. Originally, on farms, an instrument made from a tree branch to which the secondary branches remained attached, which was rolled between the palms of the hands in the container where the milk had coagulated.
Shortcrust pastry:
(Vincent La Chapelle) flour kneaded with eggs, butter, water
BREAK:
(ref nec) Break the whites: operation which consists of beating the egg whites without whipping them into stiff peaks.
BROCARD:
(CNRTL) Deer, roe deer of one year.
BROCCIU:
(economie.gouv.fr) The protected designation of origin "Brocciu corse" or "Brocciu," initially recognized by the decree of June 10, 1983, is reserved for whey cheese made from sheep's and/or goat's milk that meets local, fair, and consistent practices and the provisions of the decree of June 3, 1998, relating to the PDO "Brocciu corse" or "Brocciu."
It is a whey cheese in a truncated cone shape, the weight of which, after packaging, must be greater than or equal to 250 g and less than or equal to 3 kg, according to the four types of molds defined in Article 5 of this decree.
It is made exclusively with fresh sheep's and/or goat's milk whey, combined with raw whole sheep's and/or goat's milk, and salt.
"Brocciu corse" or simply "Brocciu" is a cheese that is either "fresh" or "aged."
It contains a minimum of 40 g of fat per 100 g of cheese after complete drying, and its total dry matter content must not be less than 20 g for "fresh" cheese and 35 g for "aged" cheese.
Production area: The production of milk and whey, as well as the manufacturing and ripening of whey cheese, must take place in the departments of Haute-Corse and Corse-du-Sud.
Herd, breeds, and feed: The sheep's or goat's milk must come from a flock consisting of:
- for sheep: Corsican or Sardinian breeds and their crossbreeds. However, the presence of sheep of breeds other than Corsican in flocks must gradually decrease over a period of eight years from the publication of this decree and disappear completely at the end of this period;
- with regard to goats: of the Corsican breed. However, the presence of goats of breeds other than the Corsican breed in flocks must gradually decrease over a period of eight years from the publication of this decree and disappear completely at the end of this period.
Pasture-based feeding is predominant. Supplementary forage and concentrates based on cereals produced within the area are permitted.
However, up to 20% of the supplementation, inputs of forage and concentrates from outside the production area are accepted.
The use of all types of fermented forage is prohibited.
Whey and added milk are also prohibited. - The whey used must come from the production of fresh sheep and/or goat curds with a "rennet" character.
Milk coagulation is achieved using traditional or commercial rennet, excluding any other coagulating enzyme, particularly those of fungal or microbial origin.
The collected whey must be used within two hours of cheesemaking. The whey pH must be 6.20 or higher.
Whole milk, for curd production, may be used for a maximum of forty hours after the earliest milking.
Added milk is fresh whole sheep's or goat's milk used raw, within twenty-four hours of milking.
Lactose removal is prohibited.
The use of milk and whey frozen in powder form or in any other form of preservation is prohibited.
Production. - Whey protein flocculation is achieved exclusively by heating the container or vat containing the whey over a direct flame (open flame) without the use of any heat transfer fluid.
It is heated slowly while being gently stirred; When the temperature reaches approximately 40-50°C, salt (between 0.5 and 1% of the initial liquid volume) and supplementary milk are added, the quantity of which must not exceed 25% of the whey volume used.
During production, the addition of potable water is permitted up to 15% of the whey volume used.
Heating continues with slow stirring until a temperature between 80 and 90°C is reached. During the temperature rise, and until the onset of flocculation, regular skimming must be carried out.
The flocculated material is placed manually and gently in several batches into truncated conical molds for draining.
The molding molds must meet the following criteria:
- for 3 kg cheeses: the top diameter must be 200 mm, the bottom diameter 145 mm, and the height 180 mm;
- For 1 kg cheeses: the top diameter must be between 155 and 160 mm, the bottom diameter between 90 and 120 mm, and the height between 85 and 120 mm;
- For 500 g cheeses: the top diameter must be between 110 and 115 mm, the bottom diameter between 90 and 92 mm, and the height between 80 and 82 mm;
- For 250 g cheeses: the top diameter must be between 90 and 110 mm, the bottom diameter between 75 and 85 mm, and the height must be 65 mm.
Maturation. - "Brocciu passu" undergoes dry salting in one or more stages, followed by maturation in the production area for a minimum of twenty-one days.
The first salting must take place within twenty-four hours of molding.
Packaging.- The packaging techniques for "Corsican Brocciu" or "Brocciu" must allow the physico-chemical and organoleptic qualities of the product to be preserved during the period of presentation to consumption provided for on the labeling by the packer.
The addition of any exogenous products to the manufacture of "Brocciu corse" or "Brocciu," except for packaging gases specified in the decree of October 2, 1997, concerning additives that may be used in the manufacture of foodstuffs intended for human consumption.
Approval. - To benefit from the controlled designation of origin "Brocciu corse" or "Brocciu," cheeses must comply with the provisions of Decree No. 93-1239 of November 15, 1993, concerning the approval of dairy products with a controlled designation of origin, and its implementing decree of February 16, 1995.
Product monitoring and statistics. - To allow for quality and origin control of whey cheeses, all operators involved in the production process must maintain an input and output register for milk, whey, and whey cheeses, or any equivalent accounting document, under the conditions set forth in the implementing regulations provided for in Article 1.
The interprofessional association for the defense and promotion of the "Brocciu corse" or "Brocciu" Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) submits an annual activity report to the INAO's National Dairy Products Committee, including statistical and economic data relating to whey cheese benefiting from the "Brocciu corse" or "Brocciu" Protected Designation of Origin.
Labeling. Whey cheeses bearing the protected designation of origin "Brocciu corse" or "Brocciu" must be sold with individual labeling that includes, in addition to the regulatory information applicable to all whey cheeses and pre-packaged foodstuffs, the name of the designation of origin and the phrase "Protected Designation of Origin" or the acronym "AOC," all printed in characters at least two-thirds the size of the largest characters on the label. The terms "fresh" or "passu" must appear on the label. The date of manufacture must be indicated on the labeling of cheeses sold with the designation "fresh."
The logo bearing the INAO acronym, the phrase "Protected Designation of Origin," and the name of the designation is mandatory on all labels of whey cheeses benefiting from the protected designation of origin.
These markings are also affixed to the crates and other packaging containing these whey cheeses.
The use of any qualifier or other term accompanying the said protected designation of origin is prohibited in labeling, advertising, invoices, or commercial documents, with the exception of:
- specific trademarks or brands;
- statements authorized by the implementing regulation provided for in Article 1.
The term "farm production" or the qualifier "farm" or any other indication suggesting a farm origin of "Corsican Brocciu" or "Brocciu" is reserved for producers processing whey and raw milk produced on their farm and in accordance with the conditions set out in the implementing regulation provided for in Article 1.
SPIT:
(CNRTL) Metal rod on which poultry, a piece of meat or game is threaded for roasting.
UMBRELLA SPIT:
(Ducatillon) This umbrella spit allows you to enclosed all types of poultry, rabbits, and roasts without piercing them. Its elongated shape ensures even cooking over embers or flames. The special opening makes inserting the meat easy. Perfect for delicate stuffed dishes.
DIPING SPINDLE:
(Cerf Dellier) Chocolate fork. Utensil used to dip preparations in chocolate without leaving fingerprints or instrument marks.
SKEWER:
(ref nec) Small metal skewer used to skewer certain preparations (kidneys, smelts, etc.), which must remain assembled in order to be grilled or fried.
BROMITE:
(boulangerienet) Oat-based bread (Greece)
BRUSHING
(Androuet) During the ripening period, the rind of some cheeses is brushed, usually with salt water. The purpose of brushing is to harden the cheese.
BRUSH:
(ref nec) Several brushes are used for bread making: banneton brush, kneading brush, for wetting the loaves.
LATHE BRUSH
(P. Moreau) Tool, used to remove excess flour.
BRUSHING:
(ref nec) 1. Remove excess flour or sugar from a sheet of dough.
2. Clean a work area with a brush.
3. Clean the hearth of a bread oven.
BROTLEWERWURSCHT:
See “frying liver pudding”.
BROTH:
(Gastronomy in the Middle Ages, O. Redon) Synonym for soup. Composed of simple ingredients and of a semi-liquid appearance. Considered a detestable and flimsy food.
BROUILLIS:
(Inventory of the culinary heritage of France) Name in Charente-inférieure, of the first run of distillation to make eau-de-vie.
BROUQUETON or prëire or préires (Hautes Alpes)
BROUSSE:
(French Academy Dictionary) Fresh cheese made in Provence with goat's or sheep's milk.
(TLFi) Curd made from sheep's or goat's milk in Provence. Syn. recuite.
(ref nec) When an acid (lemon, vinegar, etc.) is mixed with warm milk, curdling occurs. This curd is called {broussa} in Provençal. {Se broussa} means "to clump" when referring to milk (JT Avril - Provençal-French Dictionary, Edouard Cartier, Printer-Bookseller, Apt, 1839). Once drained, the curd can become, depending on the region, brousse or elsewhere bruccio or broccio, sérac in the Alps and the Jura, schik in the Vosges, and bibeleskaes in Alsace.
Etymology and History. 1505 brosse (Platine de honneste volupté, fo 19 ro in GDF. Compl.); 1579 brousse (JOUB., Pharmacop., p. 97, ibid.). Borrowed from Provençal broce "curdled milk" (1434 [Vence, Alpes-Maritimes] in MEYER Doc. t. 1, p. 522), broussa "id." (1486 in PANSIER), a term attested in French-Provençal (Pat. Suisse rom.; DUR.); the word's area also extends to Corsica (Corsican brócciu, see bruccio), the Aosta Valley, Piedmont and Liguria (FEW t. 15, 1, p. 306) as well as Catalonia (ALC.-MOLL). According to Brüch in Z. rom. Philol. vol. 35, p. 635, GAM. Rom.1 vol. 1, p. 369, vol. 2, p. 38 and Gamillscheg in Z. rom. Philol. vol. 40, p. 148, this group of words comes from Gothic * "that which is broken", derived from Gothic gabruka "piece" (FEIST, sv gabruka; KLUGE20, sv Brocken). E. Schüle in Pat. Suisse rom., sv brochyè, believes on the contrary that a Gothic term could hardly have been established in the dairy vocabulary of the Alps, and proposes a pre-Romance base *brottiare, of unknown origin.
(N. de Bonnefons) " From the whey that separates from all the curds, you will make a very pleasant cheese that the Provençals call brousse. To achieve this, since this clear milk is still sweet, you will put it in a cauldron on the fire, heating it as much as possible without boiling. If it starts to boil, you will pour in some of the same clear milk, which will be cold, to stop it from boiling. You will stir it continuously so that the buttermilk does not stick to the bottom or sides of the cauldron. You will skim off what rises to the surface, which is the brousse, and you will arrange it in a dish as you go. You will sprinkle it with sugar when you want to serve it."
BROUTARD:
(TLFi) A calf that is left to graze (instead of being fed milk)
GROYER
(tlfi) To reduce to powder or paste by impact or pressure.
BRÛLE-SAUCE:
(ref nec) Sauce made from breadcrumbs cooked in milk, pepper, salt, butter; served with woodcocks or partridges.
BURNT:
(TLFi) Something that has been set on fire; consumed, destroyed, reduced by fire. For example: "burnt rum"
(Boulangerie.net) Said of dough that lacks water.
(Ref nec) Said of an egg yolk in contact with sugar.
(TLFi) [Burned cod] Cod that has been corroded by too much salt during the salting process.
BRUNISSEUSE:
(ref nec) Drum machine filled with balls used in large establishments for the cleaning, maintenance and renovation of pieces and cutlery made of silver-plated metal, stainless steel and other precious metals such as copper, tin, vermeil, brass, bronze or gold.
BRUNOISE:
(Gouffé J, 1868) For Gouffé, this is a preparation made of diced vegetables, as indicated in the recipe:
BRUNOISE.
Cut into small cubes of half a centimeter: 1 hectoliter of red carrots, 1 hectoliter of turnips, 1 hectoliter of leeks, 1 hectoliter of white celery, 1 hectoliter of onions. Blanch all these vegetables separately; drain them; put them in a saucepan with 3 hectoliters of butter, and sauté until red. Add 5 grams of sugar, and moisten with 5 deciliters of consommé. Glaze, and moisten again with 3 liters of consommé. Simmer for 2 hours on the edge of the stove; skim and degrease. Blanch and cook 2 liters of Italian pasta (see Italian Pasta, page 352), which you drain; Place them in the tureen and pour the brunoise over them.
J. Favre: "Brunoise proper is the vegetable garnish that goes into the composition of the soup or that garnishes any meat" (diced to 1 to 2 mm on each side).
BRUSCHETTA:
(ref nec) Bruschetta is a large slice of bread, toasted or not, topped with crushed tomatoes, olive oil and other savory toppings.
BRUSOLLE (or BRUSOLLES A LA BRAISE):
(Vincent La Chapelle) thinly sliced meat, beaten, braised with bacon, parsley; chives, spices, a bed of meat, a bed of seasoning, then covered with milk, with coulis of partridge carcasses.
BRUT
(TLFi) [Referring to a wine] That which has not undergone a second transformation or fermentation.
(economie.gouv.fr) Champagne containing less than 12 g/L of sugar
BRUT NATURE:
(economie.gouv.fr) Champagne with no added sugar and residual sugar content less than 3g/L.
BUCLER:
(Regionalisms of France) to burn (traditionally with straw) the bristles of a pig or the down of a poultry, before gutting the animal.
SMOOTH:
(ref nec) Water vapor introduced into the oven, generally at the beginning of baking certain breads, in order to color the crust and promote rising, it is said.
BUFFET:
(TLFi) Table on which the dishes, bread, and wine served with the meal are arranged.
(TLFi) Staff responsible for serving at the buffet.
(TLFi) Shelf-style table in a restaurant where the dishes offered to customers are presented.
(TLFi) Piece of furniture, most often two-part, intended to hold dishes, linens, and tableware.
(TLFi) [In colloquial usage] A similar piece of furniture, also used as a pantry.
Bugloss:
Common bugloss, Anchusa officinalis, ox tongue, false borage. Some use
BUGNE:
(TLFi) A Lyon specialty consisting of a kind of rolled dough fritter, fried in oil.
BUISSON:
(TLFI) Dish of items arranged in a pyramid (used for crayfish, langoustines, in particular).
BULB:
(TLFi) Underground organ of certain plants, swollen in shape, consisting of leaves reduced to scales and fixed on a plate bearing adventitious roots and extended each year by a stalk.
BULLAGE:
(Roussel et al., Glossary of terminology applied to French breads) Phenomenon of formation of small blisters or "pustules" which appear on the surface of the bread and whose dimension is
less than 1 cm and more generally less than 5 mm in diameter.
BUN:
(ref nec) The bun is a small round bread roll made of leavened dough, stuffed with raisins, which is served in Great Britain for breakfast or tea.
BULLINADA:
(ref net) Bullinada is a stew typical of the Salanque region in northern Catalonia, which differs from the suquet of the south by the addition of eels, which can also be replaced by fish or shrimp. The classic ingredients are eels, or shrimp and fish, potatoes, peppers, and flour, seasoned with garlic, saffron, olive oil, salt, pepper, and parsley.
Whelk:
(ref nec) One of the vernacular names for the various members of the Buccinidae family, used among other places on the Picardy, Normandy, and Charente coasts.
CHELSEA BUN:
(ref nec) Small honey bun made in London until the mid-19th century, made from flour, milk, sugar, brown sugar, butter and glazed with honey.
GOOD FRIDAY BUN
(ref nec) Same as "Chelsea bun", but with candied orange peel, raisins and dried fruit.
BURRATA:
(Larousse) Stretched cheese similar to mozzarella, with a creamy center, originating from Puglia.
BURDIN:
(IPCF) Brioche shaped like a bone. Other names: bourde, cogno, queugneu. Brioche split at both ends. For a long time, it was believed to be a symbolic figure. It undoubtedly has a pagan origin. In 1913, Abbot Lallement noted: "The bourdin, made from the same dough as the brioche, is a cake shaped like an X or two opposing crescents. These two crescents placed back to back alluded to Diana, once so honored in this region (the Argonne)."
BURRATA:
n.f. (Italian word). A stretched-curd cheese similar to mozzarella, with a creamy center, originating from Puglia.
Source: Larousse 2017
BUTTING:
(Civa Buttage (or butage), 's Dràfàhra: Practiced in the autumn, cavaillonnage (or buttage) consists of bringing soil back onto the base of the vine stocks to protect them from winter frosts.
DRINKABILITY:
(ref nec) Character more or less drinkable due to its quality, especially when speaking of wine or beer.
DRINKING:
(ISO for containers) Lip. Upper edge of the opening of a container.